Big Bear, CA
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Ubehebe Crater
Ubehebe Crater (pronounced “you-bee-HEE-bee”) is one of the most striking and geologically dramatic features in Death Valley National Park, California. Located in the northern part of the park at the base of the Cottonwood Mountains (near the Racetrack Playa area), it is the largest and most prominent of a cluster of volcanic explosion craters known as the Ubehebe Craters or Ubehebe volcanic field. This maar-type crater stands out amid the park’s predominantly sedimentary and tectonic landscape as evidence of relatively recent volcanic activity in an otherwise arid, non-volcanic region.
Geological Description
Ubehebe Crater is a classic maar—a broad, shallow volcanic crater formed primarily by explosive phreatomagmatic eruptions (interactions between rising magma and groundwater). It measures approximately half a mile (about 0.8–1 km) in diameter and reaches depths of 500–777 feet (152–237 m), with steep, unstable inner walls composed of layered ejecta.
- Formation Mechanism: The crater resulted from basaltic magma rising toward the surface and encountering groundwater in porous sedimentary rocks (primarily Miocene fanglomerates and sandstones). The intense heat caused the water to flash-boil into superheated steam, building enormous pressure. This triggered violent steam-driven explosions that fragmented and ejected large volumes of country rock (pre-existing sedimentary material) along with juvenile basaltic material. The blasts pulverized rock into ash, lapilli, bombs, and blocks, hurling them outward in pyroclastic surges and fallout deposits. Unlike typical lava-flow volcanoes, maar eruptions produce little to no sustained lava flows; instead, they create wide, low-angle rims of mixed ejecta.
- Composition and Deposits: The ejecta blanket covers roughly 40 km² (15 mi²) around the craters. Deposits consist of approximately one-third basaltic scoria, bombs, and spatter (dark, fresh-looking volcanic material) and two-thirds comminuted fragments of older sedimentary rock (light-colored sandstone, conglomerate clasts). Layers alternate in color—dark basaltic ash and lighter sedimentary breccia—creating vivid banding visible on the crater walls and rim. Pyroclastic surge deposits (dense, ground-hugging flows of hot gas and debris) extend unusually far (up to 9–15 km in some directions, based on recent studies), preserved better here due to the arid environment with minimal erosion.
- The Cluster: Ubehebe is the northernmost and youngest crater in a group of about 7–12 overlapping maars aligned roughly north-south over 1.5 km, with additional smaller vents east-west and isolated features. Smaller nearby craters include Little Hebe Crater (a nested or satellite maar) and others with tuff rings.
- Age: Estimates vary due to challenges in dating young maars, but most recent research places the main eruptive sequence (including Ubehebe Crater) at approximately 2,100 years ago (around 100 BCE), based on radiocarbon dating, paleomagnetism, and stratigraphic studies. Earlier estimates ranged from 800–7,000 years old, with some suggesting the entire cluster formed in a brief period (weeks to months) from a single magmatic pulse rather than over centuries.
The eruptions exposed colorful underlying sedimentary layers, revealing Death Valley’s deeper geologic history of ancient lake beds, alluvial fans, and tectonic basin fill.
History of Discovery, Naming, and Study
- Indigenous Context: The area lies within traditional territories of the Timbisha Shoshone people. “Ubehebe” derives from a Shoshone term possibly meaning “big basket” or “big hole in the ground,” reflecting the crater’s appearance. Indigenous knowledge of the landscape predates European-American exploration.
- Euro-American Discovery: Prospectors and explorers encountered the crater in the late 19th/early 20th century amid Death Valley’s mining booms. It was noted for its dramatic appearance but not initially recognized as volcanic due to the region’s focus on gold, silver, and borax.
- Scientific Recognition: Early 20th-century geologists identified its volcanic origin. Detailed studies intensified in the late 20th and early 21st centuries. Key research includes:
- Stratigraphic and paleomagnetic work showing a short eruptive duration.
- 2016 studies on the cluster’s sequence (phreatomagmatic followed by minor magmatic phases).
- 2022 research (led by Greg Valentine, University at Buffalo) revealing wider pyroclastic surge runout than typical for maars, implying underestimated hazard zones around similar volcanoes worldwide. Deposits preserved far from the vent highlight risks in arid settings.
- Modern Status: Ubehebe Crater is a popular, accessible viewpoint in Death Valley National Park. A paved road leads to a parking area and overlook at the rim, with a short trail along the rim offering panoramic views. The interior is extremely hazardous (loose, steep slopes prone to rockfall), and descent is prohibited without permits (rarely granted). It serves as an educational site illustrating explosive volcanism, groundwater-magma interaction, and recent geologic activity in a tectonically active region.
Ubehebe Crater stands as a youthful reminder that Death Valley’s geologic story is ongoing—its formation just a few millennia ago underscores the potential for future volcanic events in this dynamic landscape, even if probabilities remain very low. Visitors experience one of the park’s most otherworldly sights: a stark black-rimmed pit contrasting with multicolored badlands under vast desert skies.
Hiking
The road into Ubehebe serves as the starting points to the Race Track Valley Road, Teakettle Junction and Hunter Mountain Road.
There are a few separate hiking opportunities while exploring the crater.
The crater rim trail, which is about 1.5 miles long, circumnavigates the crater and allows access to Little Hebe crater. The trail has some slight elevation gain, however could be more difficult to hikes with balance issue due to the unstable soil.
There is also a trail down the the bottom of the crater. This is a short trail and very easy going down. The difficulty is hiking back up the 600 feet elevation lost on the way down, in loose volcanic soil.
Ubehebe Crater Trail Map
References
Chloride City California – Inyo County Ghost Town
Chloride City is a remote ghost town and historic mining site located in the Funeral Mountains on the eastern side of Death Valley National Park, Inyo County, California. Situated at an elevation of approximately 4,770 feet (1,454 m) in a saddle high above the valley floor, it offers dramatic panoramic views across Death Valley to the Panamint Mountains—over 5,000 feet below—making it one of the more scenic yet challenging historic locations in the park. Access requires a high-clearance vehicle (often 4WD) via rough dirt roads, such as Chloride City Road off Daylight Pass Road or near Hell’s Gate, and the site remains largely untouched, with scattered remnants rather than intact structures.
Early Discovery and Initial Mining (1870s)
The area’s mining history dates back to one of the earliest documented strikes in the Death Valley region. In August 1871, prospector August J. Franklin (a civil engineer involved in U.S. government surveying work on the Nevada-California border) made the initial discovery. According to local legend, Franklin killed a rattlesnake with a rock, noticed rich-looking float (loose ore fragments) beneath it, and traced the material uphill to its source—a vein of silver chloride (a form of silver ore) at what became known as Chloride Cliff.
Franklin staked claims and formed the Chloride Cliff Mining Company, sinking a shaft to about 70 feet by mid-1873 and employing several miners. Ore samples reportedly assayed at high values—between $200 and $1,000 per ton in silver—indicating significant potential. However, the remote location, harsh desert conditions, lack of water, and transportation difficulties limited development. Activity was intermittent; Franklin and later his son George worked claims sporadically to maintain ownership, but the site saw little sustained production through the 1870s and remained largely deserted from around 1873 until the early 1900s.
Boom Period and Establishment of Chloride City (1905–1906)
Interest revived in the early 20th century amid the broader Death Valley mining boom, particularly following the major gold discovery at Bullfrog, Nevada (near Rhyolite) in 1904 and the development of the nearby Keane Wonder Mine (discovered in late 1903). Prospectors from Bullfrog crossed into the Funeral Mountains, reworking older claims and exploring new ones.
By 1905, enough activity centered on the Chloride Cliff area (including renewed work on silver-lead and emerging gold veins) that a small support camp was laid out: Chloride City. It served as a hub for nearby operations, featuring basic facilities such as an assay office, bunkhouse, and possibly other rudimentary structures. The town was positioned in a picturesque but wind-swept saddle, supporting miners extracting ore from adits (horizontal tunnels) and shafts in the vicinity.
Despite initial promise, the boom was short-lived. Most operations proved uneconomical due to low-grade ore, high processing costs, and isolation. Chloride City became a ghost town by late 1906, abandoned as miners moved to more promising strikes elsewhere.
Later Activity and Nearby Mines (1910s–1940s)
Sporadic mining returned in the 1910s and especially the 1930s, when higher gold prices during the Great Depression spurred renewed prospecting. Nearby sites like the Big Bell Mine (and Big Bell Extension) saw more substantial work, including construction of an aerial tramway, ore bins, ball mills, cyanide tanks, and other equipment—much of which remains remarkably preserved due to the site’s inaccessibility. These operations focused on gold and silver, with some claims reportedly changing hands through dramatic means (e.g., gambling, disputes, or even a reported duel). Activity largely ceased by the early 1940s, with the last major shutdown around 1941.
Chloride City itself did not revive as a town; it remained a loose collection of mining features rather than a populated settlement.
Current Status and Remnants
Today, Chloride City is within Death Valley National Park and protected as part of its historic resources. Little of the actual “town” survives—mostly scattered foundations, mine dumps, numerous adits (some explorable with caution), ore remnants, and the remains of three stamp mills. A single grave marks the site: that of James McKay, about whom virtually nothing is known.
The area includes dramatic overlooks at Chloride Cliff, where visitors can stand on old dumps and gaze down into Death Valley. Nearby hikes lead to well-preserved ruins like those of the Big Bell Mine complex, featuring rusting machinery, collapsed shacks, and tramway elements frozen in time.
The site exemplifies the fleeting nature of desert mining booms: early promise, rapid influx, quick bust, and long-term abandonment. Its isolation has helped preserve artifacts, offering a glimpse into the grit of 19th- and early 20th-century prospectors in one of Earth’s harshest environments. Visitors should prepare for rough roads, extreme conditions, and practice Leave No Trace principles, as the area has no facilities or signage in many spots.
Chloride City Trail Map
John Percival Jones
John Percival Jones (January 27, 1829 – November 27, 1912) was a prominent Anglo-American mining entrepreneur, capitalist, and long-serving politician whose career epitomized the intersection of Western mining booms, corporate investment, and national politics in the late 19th century. Known as one of the “Silver Senators,” Jones amassed significant wealth through silver mining in Nevada’s Comstock Lode before expanding his investments into California. His political influence as a U.S. Senator from Nevada for 30 years (1873–1903) amplified his role in promoting mining interests, free silver policies, and regional development.
Early Life and Arrival in the West
Born at “The Hay” in Herefordshire, England, Jones immigrated to the United States as an infant in 1829 with his family. He grew up in New York before heading west during the California Gold Rush. In 1849, at age 20, he arrived in California and settled in Trinity County in the northern part of the state. There, he engaged in placer mining, farming, and local affairs, serving as sheriff and justice of the peace in Weaverville. These early experiences in the Mother Lode region honed his skills in mining operations and frontier governance, though he did not achieve major wealth in California gold mining at this stage.
Rise in Nevada: The Comstock Lode and Crown Point Mine
Jones moved to Nevada in the mid-1860s amid the excitement of the Comstock Lode, the legendary silver discovery near Virginia City (then part of Utah Territory, later Nevada). In 1868, he became superintendent of the Crown Point Mine in Gold Hill, a key producer on the Comstock Lode. Under his management, the mine struck a rich ore body, propelling Jones to millionaire status and earning him the reputation as the Comstock’s first millionaire mine superintendent.
His heroism during a deadly 1869 fire on the Comstock further enhanced his stature. Jones was credited with brave actions that saved lives and property. This success, combined with his operational expertise, positioned him as a leading figure in Nevada’s mining industry. The Comstock’s deep, hardrock silver mining required substantial capital, corporate organization, and technological innovation—areas where Jones excelled as both manager and investor.
Political Career and the “Silver Senator” Era
In 1873, Jones was elected as a Republican U.S. Senator from the new state of Nevada, serving continuously until 1903—a remarkable 30-year tenure. He joined fellow mining magnate William Morris Stewart (another Comstock lawyer-turned-senator) in representing Nevada’s interests in Washington. Both became staunch advocates for free silver (bimetallism), opposing the gold standard and pushing policies favorable to Western mining states. Jones’s wealth and influence made him a powerful voice for silver producers nationwide.
Mining Investments in Nevada and California
Jones’s mining career extended beyond the Comstock. In Nevada, his Crown Point success provided the capital for further ventures. He invested in various Comstock properties and remained active as a capitalist even after entering the Senate.
His most notable California investment came in the mid-1870s with the Panamint silver district in the Panamint Range (now part of Death Valley National Park). In 1873–1874, rich silver outcrops were discovered in Surprise Canyon by prospectors (including former outlaws). Hearing of the excitement, Jones—fresh from Comstock riches—partnered with Senator Stewart to form the Panamint Mining Company. They invested heavily (reports vary from $250,000–$350,000 personally, plus millions raised from investors) to acquire controlling interests in key claims like the Wyoming and Wonder mines. They organized the district, built infrastructure (including a 20-stamp mill), and promoted the camp aggressively.
Panamint City boomed briefly to 1,500–2,000 residents in 1874–1875, becoming infamous for lawlessness (dozens of murders reported). Jones and Stewart floated stocks on the San Francisco Mining Exchange and cast bullion into heavy cubes to deter theft. However, the high-grade ore depleted quickly, and a devastating flash flood in 1876 destroyed much of the town. By 1877, operations collapsed amid a market panic, yielding little return despite massive investment. This bust highlighted the speculative risks of remote desert mining.
Jones also pursued broader California ventures tied to his mining interests. In 1874, he partnered with Colonel Robert S. Baker to develop Santa Monica as a seaside resort and potential port. He purchased a three-fourths interest in Baker’s Rancho Boca de Santa Monica ranch for $162,500 and built the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad (a narrow-gauge line from Los Angeles to Santa Monica, completed in 1875 without subsidies). Originally intended to connect to Inyo County silver mines (including Panamint) via Independence, financial strains from failing mines forced Jones to sell the railroad to Collis P. Huntington’s Southern Pacific in 1877. Santa Monica’s founding and early growth remain his most enduring California legacy.
Later Life and Legacy
After retiring from the Senate in 1903, Jones lived in comfort, dividing time between Washington, D.C., New York (where he owned a hotel), San Francisco (with a Turkish bath investment), and California properties. He pursued other interests, including early water reclamation ideas linked to what became Hoover Dam. He died in Santa Monica on November 27, 1912.
John P. Jones embodied the transition from individual prospecting to corporate mining capitalism in the American West. His Comstock fortune funded ambitious but often risky ventures like Panamint, while his Senate role shaped national mining and monetary policy. Though some investments (notably Panamint) ended in disappointment, his role in founding Santa Monica and promoting Western resource development left a lasting mark on California and Nevada history.
William Morris Stewart
William Morris Stewart (August 9, 1827 – April 23, 1909), often called the “Silver Senator,” was a prominent American lawyer, politician, and mining investor whose career intertwined deeply with the mining booms of California and Nevada. Known for his aggressive legal tactics, advocacy for free silver and mining rights, and involvement in high-profile (and sometimes controversial) ventures, Stewart amassed significant wealth through prospecting, litigation, and speculation before and during his long political tenure.
Early Life and Arrival in the West
Born in Galen, near Lyons, Wayne County, New York, Stewart was the oldest son of Frederick A. and Miranda Morris Stewart. His family moved to a farm in Trumbull County, Ohio, during his childhood, but he returned to Lyons for high school. In 1848, he entered Yale University but left after three semesters to join the California Gold Rush. Traveling via the Isthmus of Panama, he arrived in San Francisco in spring 1850 and headed to the gold fields near Nevada City, California. There, he prospected successfully, discovering the famed Eureka diggings and profiting enough to sell his interests at a substantial gain. This early success funded his shift from mining to law.
Legal Career and California Mining Ties (1850s)
Stewart studied law under John R. McConnell in Nevada City and was admitted to the bar in 1852. He served as district attorney of Nevada County in 1853 and briefly as acting attorney general of California in 1854. In 1855, he married Annie Elizabeth Foote (daughter of former Mississippi Senator Henry S. Foote) and moved to Downieville, California, in 1856, continuing his legal practice amid the region’s placer and quartz mining operations. His expertise in mining law—gained through litigation over claims, water rights, and ore disputes—laid the foundation for his later prominence.
Move to Nevada and the Comstock Lode (1859–1875)
The 1859 discovery of the Comstock Lode—one of the richest silver deposits in history—in what was then Utah Territory (soon Nevada) drew Stewart to Virginia City in 1860. He became the most prominent lawyer on the Comstock, specializing in mining litigation. He championed the “single ledge” theory (arguing the Comstock was one continuous vein), which influenced massive stakes in control of the lode. Stewart estimated earning $500,000 from four years of such cases, amid litigation costing up to $10 million overall. His aggressive style—sometimes described as not always strictly ethical—earned him a fearsome reputation.
Politically, Stewart helped shape Nevada: he served on the territorial council (1861), attended the 1863 constitutional convention, and became one of Nevada’s first U.S. Senators upon statehood in 1864 (serving until 1875). He drafted key national mining laws (1866 and 1872) formalizing Western practices like claim location and free access to public lands. He also contributed to the Fifteenth Amendment and supported railroad interests.
Investments and Controversies in Mining
Beyond law and politics, Stewart invested directly in mining:
- Comstock Lode: He participated as a capitalist after his legal work, profiting from the silver boom.
- Emma Mine (Utah, 1870s): Stewart promoted this silver mine in Little Cottonwood Canyon to British investors, raising millions. Accusations of fraud arose when the mine proved depleted or overvalued; he and partners sold shares profitably, tarnishing his reputation.
- Panamint City (California, 1873–1877): In late 1872/early 1873, prospectors (including outlaws) discovered rich silver in Surprise Canyon, Panamint Range (near Death Valley), while searching for the legendary Lost Gunsight Mine. Stewart partnered with fellow Nevada Senator John P. Jones (both dubbed “Silver Senators” for their mining ties) to form the Panamint Mining Company (capitalized at $2 million). They invested heavily—over $250,000–$350,000—buying claims (e.g., Wyoming, Wonder, Challenge), arranging amnesty for bandit discoverers (with restitution to Wells Fargo), and promoting the boom. Panamint City swelled to 1,500–2,000 residents with mills and infrastructure, but ore depleted quickly, and a 1876 flash flood devastated the town. The venture collapsed by 1877, adding to Stewart’s controversial legacy.
Stewart’s mining pursuits often blended speculation, promotion, and politics, drawing criticism for prioritizing profit and development over restraint.
Later Career and Legacy
After leaving the Senate in 1875 (due to financial pressures against rival William Sharon), Stewart practiced law in San Francisco and pursued unsuccessful mining schemes. He represented clients in scandals (e.g., William Sharon’s divorce) and briefly joined the Silver Party (1892–1899) to advocate remonetizing silver, editing the Silver Knight newspaper. Rejoining Republicans in 1900, he returned to the Senate (1887–1905), championing Western irrigation, mining safety, and opposing figures like John Wesley Powell on land policy.
In 1905, at nearly 80, Stewart moved to the Bullfrog mining district in southern Nevada, opening a law firm and dabbling in ventures. He died in Washington, D.C., in 1909, leaving a fortune from mining and law (estimated at millions earlier). Inducted into the Hall of Great Westerners (1964), Stewart embodied the rugged, opportunistic spirit of the mining West—shaping laws that enabled its development while embodying its excesses and controversies. His investments in California (early gold fields, Panamint) and Nevada (Comstock, later camps) helped fuel booms that transformed the region, for better and worse.
Keane Wonder Mine
The Keane Wonder Mine (also known as Keane Wonder Mine and Mill) stands as one of the most significant and best-preserved historic gold mining sites in Death Valley National Park, California. Located in the Funeral Mountains on the eastern side of Death Valley, it represents a rare success story amid the region’s typically short-lived and unprofitable mining ventures during the early 20th-century gold rushes.
Discovery and Early Development (1903–1906)
Prospecting in the Funeral Mountains dated back to the 1860s, but no major strikes occurred until the early 1900s. In December 1903, two prospectors from the nearby supply camp of Ballarat—Jack Keane, an Irish immigrant who had been struggling in the desert for years, and Domingo Etcharren, a one-eyed Basque butcher—explored an area known as Chloride Cliffs, initially targeting silver deposits.
After months of unsuccessful work on a ledge, Etcharren grew discouraged and left. Keane persisted and, by chance (some accounts credit Etcharren noticing a quartz outcropping as he departed), discovered a rich vein of free-milling gold ore—high-quality ore that could be processed relatively easily. This was Keane’s first major find after nearly a decade of hardship, leading him to name it the “Keane Wonder” (or “Keane’s Wonder”) in astonishment and optimism.
The pair quickly staked and patented eighteen claims to secure the site. They sold options on the property to investors, including a New Yorker named Joseph DeLamar, but initial deals fell through—partly due to competing discoveries elsewhere in the region (like the Bullfrog boom to the north). It wasn’t until 1906 that serious development began when investors, including John F. Campbell and later Homer Wilson (an experienced miner from California’s Mother Lode), purchased the claims for sums reportedly ranging from $150,000 to $250,000 before significant extraction.
As part of the agreements, Keane and Etcharren retained stakes: Keane became president of the Keane Wonder Mining Company, and Etcharren served as secretary.
Peak Operations and Infrastructure (1907–1912)
Under new ownership, the mine rapidly expanded into a full-scale operation. By 1907, it featured:
- A 20-stamp mill at the lower site to crush and process ore.
- An ice plant to combat the extreme desert heat.
- Support facilities for a mining camp, including worker housing.
The site’s steep, rugged location high on the mountainside posed major logistical challenges for transporting ore downhill to the mill. To address this, the company constructed a remarkable mile-long aerial tramway (approximately 1 to 1.5 miles, with about 1,000–1,500 feet of vertical drop) in 1907. This gravity-powered system used wooden towers, cables, and metal ore buckets to move material efficiently from the upper mine workings to the lower mill.
At peak production (roughly 1908–1911), the tramway transported up to 70 tons of ore per day (some sources note higher daily figures in short bursts). The ingenious design reduced costs dramatically compared to pack mules or manual labor on the treacherous slopes, making the operation profitable despite Death Valley’s harsh conditions (extreme heat, water scarcity, and isolation). The Keane Wonder became known as the “King of the Desert” in local papers like the Rhyolite Herald, and it was the most productive and longest-operating mine in the Funeral Mountains region—outlasting many flash-in-the-pan camps.
The mine yielded substantial gold (with some silver), with total output estimates ranging from $750,000 to over $1.1 million (equivalent to tens of millions in modern dollars) between 1904 and 1917, with the bulk from 1907–1912. It was one of the few truly profitable gold mines in Death Valley during this era.
Decline and Closure (1912–1942)
By 1912, easily accessible high-grade ore was largely depleted, leading to financial struggles and reduced activity. The mine was sold amid speculation that it was “played out.” Intermittent small-scale operations continued, but major production ended around 1916–1917. A final revival attempt ceased by 1942.
Post-Mining History and Preservation in Death Valley National Park
The National Park Service acquired the claims in the 1970s as part of Death Valley’s expansion and protection (Death Valley became a national monument in 1933 and a national park in 1994). The site preserves over 18,000 mining features park-wide, with Keane Wonder exemplifying early 20th-century engineering and hardship.
The area closed from 2008 to 2017 for safety reasons, including structural stabilization of unstable mine workings, hazard mitigation (e.g., after a fatal fall into a shaft in 1984), and soil sampling for contamination. Restoration focused on the aerial tramway towers, upper and lower terminals, and other structures. It reopened in November 2017 and is now a popular hiking destination via the Keane Wonder Mine Trail (a strenuous 3+ mile round-trip with significant elevation gain).
Keane Wonder Mine Trail Map
Today, visitors can view remnants including:
- Foundations of the stamp mill.
- Mine adits and shafts (do not enter—unsafe and illegal).
- The iconic line of wooden tramway towers and terminals stretching up the mountainside, with some ore buckets still in place.
The aerial tramway remains a highlight: a testament to innovative engineering that overcame the site’s extreme topography and enabled the mine’s success. It symbolizes how infrastructure could turn marginal deposits profitable in one of Earth’s harshest environments.
The Keane Wonder Mine offers a tangible link to Death Valley’s mining heritage—boom-and-bust cycles, perseverance, and the fleeting allure of gold in the desert.