Big Bear, CA
I quiet mountain community full of back country adventure.
Kearsarge California
Perched precariously on the eastern escarpment of the Sierra Nevada in Inyo County, California, Kearsarge—also known as Kearsarge City—emerged as a fleeting emblem of the Wild West’s unyielding pursuit of mineral wealth during the mid-19th century. Situated at an elevation of approximately 9,200 feet near the rugged spine of Kearsarge Peak (12,621 feet) and Kearsarge Pass, this remote mining settlement lay just 8 miles west of the present-day town of Independence, overlooking the vast Owens Valley below. Named after the Union warship USS Kearsarge, which triumphed over the Confederate CSS Alabama in 1864—a nod to the miners’ pro-Union sentiments amid the Civil War’s echoes—the camp’s story is one of explosive growth, natural catastrophe, and inexorable decline. Today, it endures as a ghost town, its skeletal remnants whispering tales of fortune and folly to hikers and historians traversing the John Muir Wilderness. This report traces Kearsarge’s arc from serendipitous discovery to abandonment, while illuminating its intricate ties to neighboring Owens Valley communities like Independence, Lone Pine, and Bishop, which served as lifelines for supplies, governance, and survival.
The Spark of Discovery and Formative Years (1864–1865)
Kearsarge’s genesis unfolded in the crisp autumn of 1864, against the backdrop of post-Civil War optimism and the ceaseless clamor for Comstock Lode-style riches. Five woodcutters, toiling above timberline on an unnamed mountain’s flank, stumbled upon a glittering vein of silver-laced gold ore—a serendipitous find amid the Sierra’s granite fastness. What compelled these men to venture so high remains a mystery, but their discovery was swift and decisive: they staked claims to the Kearsarge, Silver Sprout, and Virginia Mines, extracting four tons of ore that fetched $900 per ton when shipped to a stamp mill across the border in Nevada. Word of the strike rippled outward like a seismic aftershock, drawing prospectors, investors, and opportunists to the high slopes.
By early 1865, the Kearsarge Mining District was formally established, and a rudimentary camp coalesced below the claims, christened Kearsarge City in homage to the naval victor. The site’s isolation—accessible only by treacherous trails winding up from Owens Valley—posed formidable challenges, yet the ore’s allure proved irresistible. Investors coalesced into the Kearsarge Mining Company, channeling capital into infrastructure. By August, a 50-foot tunnel pierced the mountain’s southeast face, unearthing ore assayed at over $650 per ton. Tents and log cabins sprouted amid the alpine meadows, housing a burgeoning population that swelled toward 1,000 souls by year’s end. Saloons buzzed with tales of easy wealth, blacksmith forges rang with the shaping of picks and pans, and the air hummed with the ceaseless rhythm of stamping mills processing the first hauls. Kearsarge was no mere outpost; it aspired to permanence, eyeing the nascent Inyo County seat amid the valley’s rival settlements.
Boom, Catastrophe, and Resilient Operations (1866–1883)
The winter of 1865–1866 blanketed the Sierra in unrelenting snow, transforming the fragile camp into a besieged fortress. Isolation deepened as passes choked with drifts, stranding residents and straining supplies hauled painstakingly from below. Then, on the afternoon of March 1, 1866, nature unleashed its fury: a colossal avalanche thundered down the slopes, engulfing much of Kearsarge City in a maelstrom of ice, rock, and timber. The toll was grievous—one woman, the wife of the mine foreman, perished; several men lay injured amid the wreckage of homes and outbuildings. In the avalanche’s wake, the survivors—haunted by the Sierra’s capricious wrath—relocated the camp to a marginally safer ledge nearby, nearer Onion Valley’s gentler contours.
Undeterred, the miners pressed on. That summer, a substantial mill rose to refine the ore on-site, reducing dependence on distant Nevada processors. Yet prosperity proved as ephemeral as the snowmelt. Legal entanglements ensnared the Kearsarge Company, accruing debts nearing $15,000 by 1867, forcing a sale and tempering operations. Sporadic revivals flickered through the 1870s, but it was the Rex Montis Mine—perched at 12,000 feet on the peak’s north face—that briefly reignited the boom. From 1875 to 1883, this vein became the district’s gold cornerstone, yielding a staggering 12,333 ounces of gold and silver in 1877 alone. The camp pulsed anew with activity: ore wagons creaked down precipitous grades, assay offices tallied payloads under lantern light, and the scent of pine smoke mingled with the acrid tang of smelters. At its zenith, Kearsarge embodied the frontier’s raw vigor—a polyglot haven where Cornish engineers, Irish laborers, and American speculators forged uneasy alliances against the mountains’ indifference.
Decline and Desertion (1884–Early 20th Century)
As with so many Sierra strikes, Kearsarge’s glory was fleeting. By the mid-1880s, high-grade veins pinched out, leaving low-yield diggings that mocked the early windfalls. The Rex Montis faltered, the Kearsarge Mine limped into the 1880s, and litigation lingered like a specter. The camp’s population hemorrhaged—families fled to valley floors, abandoning sagging cabins to the elements. By 1888, Kearsarge lay largely forsaken, its mill dismantled and carted away, the once-bustling streets reclaimed by wildflowers and wind. A 1935 revival attempt—aimed at reopening tunnels crusted with ice—fizzled after crews hacked through 250 feet of frozen obstruction, the cost outweighing any promise.
Echoes of activity persisted in the 1920s, when a cluster of cabins briefly housed workers extracting residual gold, but the Great Depression quashed such endeavors. Kearsarge’s nadir mirrored the broader Owens Valley saga: the 1920s diversion of the Owens River by Los Angeles quenched the region’s aquifers, turning fertile farmlands to dust and underscoring the valley’s vulnerability. The mining district, once a beacon, faded into obscurity, its scars etched into the granite as enduring as the peaks themselves.
Relationships with Surrounding Towns
Kearsarge’s high-altitude perch rendered it inextricably bound to the Owens Valley’s triad of enduring settlements—Independence, Lone Pine, and Bishop—which functioned as its economic, logistical, and social anchors. Just 8 miles east in the valley’s heart, Independence emerged as Kearsarge’s closest kin and fiercest rival. Founded in 1866 near the Owens River, it supplanted Kearsarge as Inyo County’s seat in 1886, a victory sealed after the mining camp’s avalanche-induced exodus and mounting woes. Independence’s stagecoach depots and nascent roads funneled supplies—flour, tools, and whiskey—up the grueling Onion Valley Road, originally a haul route for Kearsarge ore. In turn, the camp’s silver and gold briefly bolstered Independence’s economy, though the 1872 Lone Pine earthquake—a 7.4–7.9 magnitude cataclysm that razed 60 adobe structures—rippled northward, reminding all of the valley’s shared fragility.
To the south, 40 miles distant along U.S. Highway 395, Lone Pine served as a rugged gateway and resupply hub, its adobe trading posts provisioning Kearsarge-bound wagons with staples from as far as Los Angeles. Named for a lone piñon amid the Alabama Hills, Lone Pine’s 1872 quake devastation forged a communal bond; survivors from both towns sought shelter in shared valley networks. Kearsarge miners, descending for R&R, frequented Lone Pine’s saloons, while the town’s proximity to Mount Whitney drew mutual adventurers. Bishop, 45 miles north, amplified these ties as the valley’s commercial nexus. With its bustling general stores and proximity to silver strikes like the Chalfant Valley mines, Bishop absorbed Kearsarge’s overflow labor and capital, especially post-1880s decline. Stage lines and, later, the Carson & Colorado Railroad (with its Kearsarge Station stop, confusingly named after the ghost town) knit the quartet into a resilient web—Kearsarge’s ore fueling Bishop’s mills, Independence’s courts adjudicating claims, and Lone Pine’s trails easing the perilous ascent.
This interdependence extended into the 20th century: the Eastern Sierra’s hiking renaissance, via the Pacific Crest Trail and John Muir Trail, revived Kearsarge Pass as a portal, with thru-hikers shuttling between Onion Valley (near Independence) and resupply points in Lone Pine or Bishop. Today, these towns—population hubs amid Inyo’s sparse 18,000 residents—preserve Kearsarge’s legacy through museums like Independence’s Inyo County Courthouse and Bishop’s Laws Railroad Museum, which chronicles the “Slim Princess” narrow-gauge line that once skirted the ghost town’s valley echoes.
Current Status
Kearsarge persists as an unincorporated ghost town within the Inyo National Forest, a spectral relic accessible via the 13-mile Onion Valley Road from Independence—a steep, winding ascent now popular for its wildflower blooms and fall aspens. The original high-country site yields scant traces: tumbled stone foundations from cabins and the mill, rusted ore tipples half-buried in talus, and the yawning adits of the Kearsarge and Rex Montis Mines, their timbers rotted and portals barred against the unwary. A 1920s cabin cluster lingers in partial ruin, while wild onions—ironically nodding to Onion Valley below—carpet the meadows in spring. The site’s 9,199-foot elevation harbors pinyon-juniper woodlands, drawing mule deer and golden eagles, but avalanche scars and seismic reminders (from the 1872 quake’s fault lines) underscore its peril; visitors heed National Forest warnings for unstable terrain and summer thunderstorms.
A secondary “Kearsarge”—the long-defunct Kearsarge Station (once Citrus), 4.5 miles east of Independence—fares little better: mere foundations of a water tank, rail depot, and section house mark the Carson & Colorado Railroad’s 1883–1932 halt, dismantled during the Depression. Recent preservation nods include a short reconstructed track segment and interpretive plaque, installed in the 2010s by local historical societies. Tourism, buoyed by the pass’s role in the John Muir Wilderness, sees 5,000–10,000 annual visitors—PCT hikers emerging dust-caked from the Sierra Crest, or day-trippers from Bishop’s craft breweries. Social media tags like #KearsargeGhostTown trend modestly, with drone shots capturing the ruins’ stark isolation against the snow-capped Palisades. Yet, as climate shifts lengthen fire seasons and dry Onion Valley’s creeks, Kearsarge’s fragility endures—a poignant counterpoint to its valley siblings’ quiet vitality. For access, consult Inyo National Forest’s Onion Valley Campground, where interpretive trails evoke the ghosts of ’64.
Kearsarge, in its spectral hush, stands as a microcosm of the Eastern Sierra’s boom-bust ethos: a testament to human audacity, felled by nature’s caprice, yet eternally linked to the living tapestry of Independence, Lone Pine, and Bishop. As Mary Austin evoked in The Land of Little Rain, it remains a “dimple at the foot of Kearsarge,” where the mountains guard secrets as old as the gold itself.
The Amargosa Opera House
Recently, on a whim, my wife and I loaded up the jeep and opt to just explore the desert West of our home town of Las Vegas and ended up at the Amargosa Opera House. Our original idea was to drive to the winery’s in Pahrump, Nevada. After the winery our plan was to drive up to the townsite of Johnnie, Nevada. The best laid plans were for not. We discovered that the mines of Johnnie, Nevada are located on private property.
Honoring the wishes of the Johnnie mine site property owners, we opted to do some exploring. We headed easy through the small town of Crystal, Nevada and drove past the Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. The AMNWR was closed, as the result of, a Government Shutdown.
As our wandering journey continued, we opted to travel South and soon discovered the small desert haven of Death Valley Junction and the world famous Amargosa Opera House.
Death Valley Junction was founded as the town of Amargosa. The town was founded at the intersection of SR 190 and SR 127 just East of Death Valley. Founded in 1907 when the Tonopay and Tidewater railroads ventured into Amargosa Valley.
Origins as a Borax Company Town (Early 20th Century)
The story begins not with ballet slippers but with 20-mule teams and the quest for borax. In the early 1900s, the Pacific Coast Borax Company sought to exploit rich deposits in Death Valley. The Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad reached the area in 1907, establishing a settlement originally called Amargosa (Spanish for “bitter,” referencing the local water). By the 1920s, the company constructed a U-shaped complex of adobe buildings in the Spanish Colonial Revival style, designed by architect Alexander Hamilton McCulloch. Completed between 1923 and 1925, it included offices, employee dormitories, a hotel, store, and a community hall known as Corkhill Hall. This hall hosted everything from church services and town meetings to dances, movies, funerals, and recreational events for the roughly 300 residents.
The town peaked in the 1920s and 1930s, supporting the nearby Lila C. Mine and the Death Valley Railroad, a narrow-gauge line that hauled borax until the early 1940s. World War II damaged the tracks, mining shifted elsewhere, and by 1950, Death Valley Junction had devolved into a near-ghost town—abandoned buildings crumbling under relentless sun, with only dust devils for company.
The Arrival of Marta Becket and Rebirth (1967–1970s)
Fate—or a flat tire—intervened in March 1967. Marta Becket (born Martha Beckett in 1924 in New York City), a classically trained dancer, actress, choreographer, and painter who had performed on Broadway, at Radio City Music Hall, and in touring shows, was camping with her husband Tom Williams when their trailer blew a tire near Death Valley Junction. While it was repaired, Becket explored the derelict town. Peering through a keyhole in the door of Corkhill Hall, she felt the building “speak” to her: a vast, ruined space with a stage, flooded floors, and rodent-infested benches, but brimming with potential.
Enchanted, Becket rented the hall for $45 a month and a dollar down. She and her husband leveled the floor, repaired the roof, and extended the stage. On February 10, 1968, she gave her inaugural performance—a one-woman show of dance, mime, and music—to an audience of just 12 locals on a rainy night. She renamed the venue the Amargosa Opera House, performed weekends without fail, and began restoring the adjacent hotel.
Sparse crowds frustrated her until inspiration struck: she would create her own audience. From 1968 to 1972, working on scaffolding in scorching heat, Becket painted vibrant Renaissance-style murals covering the walls and ceiling—a perpetual crowd of 16th-century nobles, jesters, nuns, kings, queens, and courtesans in opulent attire, gazing eternally at the stage. The ceiling became a trompe-l’œil balcony of revelers. This “painted audience” ensured she was never truly alone.
A 1970 National Geographic article, followed by features in Life magazine, brought fame. Visitors trickled, then poured in from around the world, drawn to this oasis of whimsy in the desert’s void.
Peak Years and Legacy Building (1970s–2017)
In 1974, Becket completed the murals and founded the nonprofit Amargosa Opera House, Inc. With support from friends and the Trust for Public Land, the organization purchased the entire town of Death Valley Junction. On December 10, 1981, it was listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Proper theater seats arrived in 1983, replacing garden chairs.
Becket performed relentlessly—often solo, later with partners like handyman Tom Willett (her comic foil until his 2005 death)—choreographing original ballets and pantomimes. Her shows ran Friday, Saturday, and Monday nights, drawing busloads during peak seasons. She lived simply in a shack behind the opera house, surrounded by cats, burros, peacocks, and the desert’s silence.
The 2000 documentary Amargosa, directed by Todd Robinson, cemented her legend. Becket retired from regular performances after the 2008–2009 season but returned sporadically until her final show on February 12, 2012. She continued painting and overseeing the venue until her death on January 30, 2017, at age 92.
Successors like ballerina Jenna McClintock (inspired as a child visitor and resident performer until 2016) carried the torch briefly, but the focus shifted to preserving Becket’s vision.
Current Status (As of November 20, 2025)
Death Valley Junction remains a near-ghost town—population under 10, no gas stations, no grocery stores, and vast emptiness punctuated by derelict borax-era ruins. Yet the Amargosa Opera House and Hotel endures as a nonprofit-run cultural beacon, owned and operated by Amargosa Opera House, Inc.
The 23-room hotel is open year-round, offering basic, historic accommodations (no TVs, but WiFi and air conditioning) to travelers seeking quirky desert lodging. The adjacent Amargosa Cafe, once a staple, remains closed following prior operational pauses.
The Opera House itself faces challenges from the desert’s extremes. Severe monsoon floods in August 2025 damaged the historic adobe walls, lobby, rooms, and irreplaceable murals, with water inundating the complex. Reserves depleted, the nonprofit launched urgent fundraising campaigns, raising over $18,000 by October 2025 toward a $50,000 goal for floor repairs, roof work, flood mitigation, utilities, insurance, and payroll. As of mid-November 2025, tours—normally daily at 9 AM and often evenings—were suspended, with resumption announced for November 2, 2025 (adults $20, children $10).
Performances are limited or on hiatus during recovery, though the venue occasionally hosts traveling musicians, theater, spoken word, and special events (check amargosaoperahouse.org for schedules). The murals—vibrant depictions of Becket’s imaginary patrons—remain the star attraction, a testament to one woman’s defiance of isolation.
Despite hardships, the Amargosa persists as a symbol of artistic resilience. Visitors describe it as a “miracle in the desert,” where the air still hums with Marta Becket’s spirit—whirling like the dust devils she loved to paint. In an era of fleeting digital spectacles, this hand-built theater reminds us that true creation can bloom anywhere, even in the bitter heart of nowhere. For the latest updates, visit the official site or contribute to preservation efforts.
Shakespeare New Mexico
Tucked into the sun-scorched badlands of Hidalgo County in southwestern New Mexico, just 2.5 miles southwest of the modern town of Lordsburg, lies Shakespeare—a quintessential Old West ghost town that has worn more names than most settlements dare: Mexican Springs, Grant, Ralston City, and finally Shakespeare. Born from a vital spring in an arid landscape frequented by Apache bands, it evolved into a stagecoach stop, a fleeting silver boomtown, a haven for outlaws, and ultimately a preserved relic of the frontier era. Unlike many romanticized ghost towns rebuilt for tourism, Shakespeare remains remarkably authentic, its adobe and timber structures standing much as they did over a century ago, privately owned and deliberately shielded from commercialization. Designated a National Historic Site in 1970 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1973, it whispers tales of lynching, diamond hoaxes, and notorious gunslingers amid the creosote and yucca.
Origins as a Watering Hole and Stage Stop (1850s–1860s)
The story of Shakespeare begins not with mines but with water—a rare spring in the Pyramid Mountains that drew travelers along the perilous southern route to California. Known first as Mexican Springs, it served as a relay station for the San Antonio–San Diego Mail Line (1857) and later the Butterfield Overland Mail stagecoach route, where teams of horses were swapped and passengers grabbed hasty meals amid the threat of Apache raids. After the Civil War, the site briefly became Grant, honoring General Ulysses S. Grant, but it remained little more than a lonely outpost in the vast Chihuahuan Desert landscape.
The Silver Rush and Ralston City (1870–1879)
Fortune struck in 1870 when prospectors uncovered rich silver-chloride ore in the surrounding hills. Seeking backing from San Francisco banker William Chapman Ralston (founder of the Bank of California), the fledgling camp exploded into Ralston City. By 1871, the population soared to around 3,000—a polyglot mix of miners, merchants, gamblers, and saloon keepers. Assays promised riches, but the boom was tainted by one of the Old West’s most audacious swindles: the Great Diamond Hoax of 1872. Con men salted a nearby peak with uncut diamonds (and later rubies), duping investors—including Ralston himself—into pouring money into worthless claims before geologist Clarence King exposed the fraud. The scandal crippled confidence, and by 1874 Ralston City was nearly deserted, its high-grade ore played out and its dreams shattered.
Rebirth as Shakespeare and Wild West Notoriety (1879–1893)
In 1879, English mining engineer Colonel William G. Boyle purchased most of the abandoned claims, breathing new life into the town. Seeking a dignified image to attract respectable investors, Boyle renamed it Shakespeare, dubbing the main street “Avon Avenue” and the hotel the “Stratford.” A second, more stable boom followed, with the Shakespeare Gold and Silver Mining Company extracting ore and the town sustaining saloons, stores, a meat market, blacksmiths, and the grand Stratford Hotel. Yet Shakespeare earned a rough reputation: no church, no school, no newspaper, and virtually no formal law. Justice was swift and citizen-enforced—”if you killed a man, you had to dig the grave.”
The town became a hangout for the San Simon Valley cowboys, including Curly Bill Brocius, John Ringo, and members of the Clanton gang. Legends persist that a teenage Billy the Kid once washed dishes at the Stratford Hotel. The most infamous incident occurred on November 9, 1881, when cattle rustlers “Russian Bill” Tattenbaum (a self-proclaimed nobleman) and Sandy King were captured by gunfighter “Dangerous Dan” Tucker and lynched from the rafters of the Grant House dining room. Their bodies dangled for days as a grim warning.
Decline and Sporadic Revivals (1893–1930s)
The Silver Panic of 1893 shuttered the mines, and when the railroad arrived in the early 1880s, it bypassed Shakespeare by three miles in favor of Lordsburg, sealing its fate as businesses and residents fled. By the early 1900s, it was a true ghost town. Brief flickers of life returned: in 1907–1909, miners from the nearby Eighty-Five copper mine rented buildings, and in the 1910s a spur railroad line briefly revived activity. But the Great Depression extinguished the last sparks, leaving crumbling adobes to the wind.
Preservation by the Hill Family (1935–Present)
In 1935, Frank and Rita Hill, enamored with the Southwest, purchased the derelict town and surrounding ranchland to raise cattle and horses. They restored buildings modestly, living in the old merchandise store. Rita, along with early resident Emma Marble Muir (who arrived as a child in the 1880s) and later their daughter Janaloo Hill Hough, became passionate historians, documenting stories and offering occasional tours. After a devastating 1997 fire, Janaloo and her husband Manny Hough rebuilt faithfully. The family—now into subsequent generations—has fiercely guarded Shakespeare’s authenticity, refusing to “Disneyfy” it.
Current Status
Shakespeare remains privately owned by descendants of the Hill family, operating as part of a working ranch and one of New Mexico’s most genuine ghost towns. It is not freely accessible; visitors must take guided tours to protect the fragile structures and prevent vandalism. As of late 2025, the town is open daily from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Mountain Time, with scheduled tours at 10:00 a.m., noon, and 3:00 p.m. (call ahead to confirm guide availability). Admission is $15 for adults, $7 for children 6–12 (with a $30 minimum plus tax). Private tours can be arranged by calling (575) 542-9034 or from the gate.
Key surviving structures include the Stratford Hotel, Grant House (with its infamous dining room beams), general store, assay office, blacksmith shop, and cemetery. Living history re-enactments—featuring gunfights, period costumes, and Old West demonstrations—occur several times a year, often on the fourth weekends of April, June, August, and October. The site is praised for its knowledgeable guides (often family members or locals like Apache storyteller Joe) who bring the rough-and-tumble past vividly to life.
Located off I-10 at Exit 22 in Lordsburg, follow Main Street south, then signs along NM-494 (a short dirt road) to the gated entrance. No amenities are available on-site—bring water, sunscreen, and sturdy shoes. Shakespeare endures not as a commercial spectacle but as a raw, evocative portal to the real Old West, where the echoes of outlaws and miners still linger in the desert silence. For the latest tour details, contact the owners directly or visit shakespeareghostown.com.
Death Valley Junction
Death Valley Junction, often still referred to by its original name Amargosa (Spanish for “bitter,” referencing the local water sources), is a remote, unincorporated community in eastern Inyo County, California, within the Mojave Desert’s Amargosa Valley. Situated at the crossroads of State Route 190 and State Route 127, it lies just east of Death Valley National Park, approximately 30 miles from the park’s Furnace Creek area and near the Nevada border. At an elevation of about 2,041 feet (622 meters), the site has long served as a desolate yet strategic junction in one of the harshest environments on Earth, where summer temperatures routinely exceed 120°F (49°C) and rainfall is scarce. This isolated outpost, now home to fewer than four permanent residents, embodies the boom-and-bust cycles of desert mining towns while owing its enduring cultural significance to an unlikely artistic revival.
Early History and Indigenous Roots
The area around Death Valley Junction has been traversed for millennia. Indigenous peoples, including the Timbisha Shoshone, used the crossroads for travel and trade routes across the Amargosa Valley. European-American exploration intensified during the California Gold Rush era, when the infamous Death Valley ’49ers—lost prospectors seeking a shortcut to the gold fields—passed through nearby, lending the region its ominous name. Ranchers, farmers, and settlers followed in the late 19th century, drawn by sparse water sources and grazing lands. Originally known simply as Amargosa, the settlement gained a post office in the early 20th century, but it remained a minor stop until the discovery of valuable mineral resources transformed it.
The Borax Boom and Railroad Era (1900s–1930s)
The community’s modern history began in earnest with the borax mining boom. In 1907, the name was officially changed to Death Valley Junction to capitalize on its proximity to emerging mining operations. The Pacific Coast Borax Company (famous for its 20-mule team wagons) played a pivotal role. In 1914, the company established the narrow-gauge Death Valley Railroad, linking the boron-rich mines at Ryan (near present-day Death Valley) to Death Valley Junction, where ore was transferred to the Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad for shipment southward.
From 1923 to 1925, the company invested heavily in infrastructure, constructing a planned company town in the Spanish Colonial Revival style. Designed by Los Angeles architect Alexander Hamilton McCulloch, the development included employee housing, offices, a hotel (originally for visitors and staff), and a community hall called Corkill Hall. At its peak in the 1920s, the town supported around 300–350 residents, with amenities like a school, stores, and social events. Borax, used in detergents, glass, and cosmetics, fueled prosperity until operations shifted. The Death Valley Railroad ceased borax transport in 1928, and full rail service ended by the 1940s as mining declined and synthetic alternatives emerged. By the 1950s, Death Valley Junction had largely become a ghost town, its adobe buildings crumbling under the relentless desert sun.
Revival Through Art: Marta Becket and the Amargosa Opera House (1960s–2010s)
The town’s improbable second life began in 1967 when New York dancer, painter, and performer Marta Becket (1924–2017) and her husband experienced a flat tire while camping nearby. Wandering into the abandoned Corkill Hall—part of the old borax company complex—Becket envisioned it as a theater. She rented the space (initially for $45 a month) and transformed the derelict hall into the Amargosa Opera House.
Over decades, Becket meticulously restored the venue, painting elaborate murals on the walls and ceiling depicting a perpetual Renaissance-era audience (complete with nobles, nuns, and jesters) so she would “never perform to an empty house.” She began solo dance, mime, and one-woman shows in 1968, often to sparse crowds—or none at all—in the early years. Word spread, drawing curious tourists en route to Death Valley. Becket performed nearly every weekend until her retirement in 2012 at age 87, her final show marking over 40 years on stage.
In the 1970s–1980s, Becket expanded her vision: completing murals throughout the adjacent hotel, establishing the nonprofit Amargosa Opera House, Inc., and purchasing much of the town with donor support. In 1980, Death Valley Junction was designated a National Register of Historic Places district, preserving 26 structures as remnants of early 20th-century borax-era architecture. The site gained further fame through documentaries, books (including Becket’s autobiography To Dance on Sands), and appearances in films.
Current Status
Today, Death Valley Junction remains one of California’s most evocative near-ghost towns, with a permanent population of fewer than four people. The entire historic district is owned and managed by the nonprofit Amargosa Opera House, Inc., ensuring preservation of Marta Becket’s legacy following her death in 2017.
- Amargosa Opera House and Hotel: The centerpiece remains operational as a cultural oasis. The 23-room hotel (with basic, atmospheric accommodations featuring Becket’s murals) welcomes overnight guests year-round. Self-guided or staff-led tours of the opera house showcase the hand-painted murals and stage. Performances continue sporadically, including tribute shows, live music, theater, and special events like anniversary celebrations on or near February 10 (marking Becket’s 1968 debut). Tours resumed on November 2, 2025, after temporary closures.
- Challenges and Recent Developments: The site has faced ongoing environmental threats, including flash floods from monsoon storms that damaged the opera house floor, hotel rooms, and adobe structures in recent years (notably exacerbated by events like Hurricane Hilary in 2023). Fundraising efforts focus on repairs, roof work, flood mitigation, utilities, and insurance. The former Amargosa Cafe is no longer consistently open, and there are no gas stations, stores, or other services—visitors must fuel up in nearby Pahrump, Nevada, or Shoshone, California.
- Tourism and Appeal: As a gateway to Death Valley National Park (which saw record visitation in recent years), the junction attracts road-trippers, history buffs, and art enthusiasts seeking offbeat Americana. The stark contrast of a vibrant, mural-filled theater amid derelict borax ruins creates a surreal, haunting atmosphere—often described as “eccentric” or “otherworldly.” It has appeared in media as a symbol of desert resilience and quirky individualism.
Death Valley Junction stands as a testament to human ingenuity amid isolation: from industrial borax hub to abandoned relic, reborn through one woman’s artistic defiance. Though fragile and remote, it endures as a preserved slice of California’s desert heritage, inviting visitors to experience its quiet drama under vast, starlit skies.
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Ryan California – Inyo County Ghosttown
Perched precariously on the steep eastern flanks of the Amargosa Range at an elevation of 3,045 feet (928 meters), Ryan, California—once a thriving borax mining outpost—clings to the rugged edge of Death Valley National Park like a faded photograph from the early 20th century. This unincorporated community in Inyo County, just 8 miles northeast of Dante’s View and 15 miles southeast of Furnace Creek, embodies the stark contrasts of the American desert frontier: blistering heat by day, bone-chilling nights, and the relentless pursuit of mineral wealth amid isolation. Founded as a company town by the Pacific Coast Borax Company in 1914, Ryan served as the nerve center for extracting the “white gold” of the Mojave, fueling industries from glassmaking to detergents. Today, as a meticulously preserved ghost town under private stewardship, it offers a rare, unvarnished glimpse into the lives of borax miners and the pivot to tourism that briefly extended its lifespan. Though closed to casual visitors, Ryan’s 2025 designation on the National Register of Historic Places underscores its enduring significance as a cultural relic of industrial ambition and human resilience in one of North America’s harshest landscapes.
Early Prospecting and Settlement (1880s–1913)
The saga of Ryan unfolds against the backdrop of Death Valley’s borax boom, a chapter in the broader narrative of California’s mineral rushes that followed the silver frenzies of the Comstock Lode. Borax, a sodium borate compound essential for soap, ceramics, and fireproofing, was first discovered in the region in 1872 near Furnace Creek. By 1882, prospector Isadore Daixel had staked claims in the Funeral Mountains, identifying rich deposits of colemanite—a hydrated calcium borate—at what would become the Lila C Mine. Named after Lila C. Coleman, daughter of borax magnate William Tell Coleman, the Lila C site emerged as a modest camp by the early 1900s, drawing hardy laborers to its sun-scorched slopes where temperatures routinely exceeded 120°F (49°C) and water was hauled in by mule teams.
In 1907, the Pacific Coast Borax Company (PCB), under the visionary leadership of figures like Stephen Mather (later the first director of the National Park Service), formalized operations. A post office opened that year at Lila C, marking the camp’s transition from tent city to semblance of permanence. Miners, a mix of American, Mexican, and European immigrants, toiled in hand-dug adits, extracting colemanite via shallow pits and rudimentary ore chutes. The air hummed with the clatter of picks and the lowing of burros, while sagebrush-dotted arroyos carried faint echoes of multilingual banter around campfires fueled by creosote branches. Yet, the site’s remoteness—over 100 miles from the nearest railhead at Ludlow—hampered efficiency, prompting PCB to envision a more ambitious hub.
Boomtown Ascendancy and Industrial Might (1914–1927)
The year 1914 heralded Ryan’s explosive rebirth. To streamline logistics, PCB relocated operations 11 miles northwest of Lila C, constructing a new camp initially dubbed “Devar” (an acronym for Death Valley Railroad, later mangled to “Devair” on maps). Renamed Ryan in tribute to John Ryan (1849–1918), the company’s steadfast general manager who oversaw its expansion from San Francisco’s borax refineries to the Mojave’s veins, the site burgeoned into a model company town. By 1916, it boasted 54 buildings: bunkhouses for 300 workers, a two-story hospital with steam heat, a schoolhouse for the children of miners, a post office-cum-general store stocked with canned goods and patent medicines, assay offices, machine shops, and a recreation hall—originally a church shipped intact from the ghost town of Rhyolite, Nevada, in 1919.
At its core pulsed the mining infrastructure: the Lila C Mine, joined by the Jumbo, Biddy, and Widow complexes, yielded thousands of tons of colemanite annually, processed via a web of aerial tramways that whisked ore 1,000 feet down the canyon to loading platforms. The “Baby Gauge,” a narrow-gauge mine railroad snaking south from Ryan, shuttled loaded skips, while the full Death Valley Railroad—PCB’s 3-foot-gauge marvel—linked Ryan to the borax works at Death Valley Junction 20 miles east, ferrying passengers and freight through tunnel-pocked canyons. Electricity from a hydroelectric plant at Navel Spring illuminated the nights, refrigeration preserved perishables, and a tennis court hinted at leisure amid the grind. Population swelled to around 2,000 at peak, a polyglot mosaic where Cornish pumpmen rubbed shoulders with Mexican muleteers, all sustained by PCB’s paternalistic ethos of fair wages, medical care, and communal suppers under star-pricked skies. Ryan’s streets, graded dirt ribbons flanked by adobe and frame structures, thrummed with the rhythm of shift changes, the whistle of locomotives, and the distant rumble of ore cars—a desert symphony of progress.
Decline and Reinvention (1928–1950s)
As with many Mojave outposts, Ryan’s fortunes waned with depleting veins and shifting markets. By 1927, high-grade colemanite reserves dwindled, and PCB shuttered the mines in 1928, idling the tramways and silencing the Baby Gauge. Undeterred, the company pivoted to tourism, rebranding Ryan as the Death Valley View Hotel in 1927—a plush resort with 20 guest rooms, a dining hall, and scenic overlooks drawing Hollywood elites and Eastern sightseers via the Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad. The Death Valley Railroad extended its life, offering excursion trains into the ghost mines until its decommissioning in 1930 amid the Great Depression’s grip.
The hotel limped on as overflow lodging for Furnace Creek’s inns through the 1940s, hosting episodes of Death Valley Days radio broadcasts and even serving as a Cold War fallout shelter in the 1950s. Yet, by the mid-1950s, patronage faded, leaving Ryan in caretaker status: a skeletal ensemble of weathered bunkhouses and rusting rail sidings, patrolled by lone watchmen amid encroaching creosote and jackrabbits. The 1933 creation of Death Valley National Monument (upgraded to national park in 1994) encircled but spared the private enclave, preserving its isolation.
Current Status (As of November 2025)
In a twist of serendipitous stewardship, Ryan’s nadir became its salvation. After decades under U.S. Borax (formed by PCB’s 1956 merger) and subsequent owner Rio Tinto (acquired 1967), the site was donated to the newly formed Death Valley Conservancy (DVC) on May 6, 2013—complete with 640 acres, 22 buildings, 16 archaeological sites, and mineral rights, bolstered by endowments for upkeep. This act, championed by Rio Tinto’s Preston Chiaro and spurred by National Park Service overtures since 2005, averted decay and positioned Ryan as a living laboratory for preservation.
Today, Ryan stands as one of the West’s best-preserved mining camps, its adobe walls and timber frames stabilized per the Secretary of the Interior’s standards. The Ryan Rec Hall’s multi-year restoration, ongoing since 2019, exemplifies efforts to blend education with conservation, supporting research in archaeology, industrial history, and desert ecology. The Ryan Historic District—encompassing rail remnants, mine complexes, and trails—was nominated in 2024 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places on January 27, 2025, honoring its multifaceted legacy from borax extraction to mid-century media outpost.
Public access remains tightly controlled for safety—unstable shafts and seismic risks abound—with no roads or services on-site. Visitors must enter a lottery for guided tours via the DVC website, typically limited to small groups exploring the schoolhouse’s chalk-scarred blackboards or the hotel’s faded lobby. Recent 2025 initiatives include enhanced water harvesting at Navel Spring and interpretive signage, while social media whispers of drone-captured sunsets over the bunkhouses fuel #DeathValleyGhostTown fervor. Amid Death Valley’s 2025 tourism surge—bolstered by cooler monsoons—Ryan endures not as a relic, but a resilient echo: where the wind through abandoned tram towers carries the ghosts of gandy dancers and the promise of rediscovery for those who draw the tour ticket. For bookings and updates, consult the Death Valley Conservancy at dvconservancy.org.
Town Summary
| Name | Ryan California |
| Also Known As | Colemanite, Devair, New Ryan |
| Location | Death Valley National Park, San Bernardino County, California |
| Latitude, Longitude | 36.3213, -116.6697 |
| Elevation | 928 meters / 3045 feet |
| GNIS | 1661348 |