Big Bear, CA
I quiet mountain community full of back country adventure.
Zabriskie Point
Zabriskie Point is a renowned scenic overlook and erosional landscape in Death Valley National Park, California, part of the Amargosa Range on the eastern side of the valley. It sits roughly 4–5 miles (about 6–8 km) southeast of Furnace Creek along California Highway 190, at coordinates approximately 36°25′12″N 116°48′40″W and an elevation of around 710–713 feet (216–217 m) above sea level.
The site is famous for its dramatic badlands: intricately eroded yellow, gold, brown, and rust-colored hills and ridges with almost no vegetation. The most prominent feature visible from the overlook is Manly Beacon, a high outcrop rising to about 823 feet (251 m), named for William L. Manly (one of the “Forty-niners” who helped guide stranded emigrants out of Death Valley during the 1849–1850 California Gold Rush). Distant views often include the valley’s salt flats and the Panamint Mountains to the west. A short paved walk (about ¼ mile / 400 m) leads from the parking area to the viewpoint; trails such as the Badlands Loop also begin nearby.
Geology
The landscape is older than modern Death Valley itself. Millions of years before the current valley formed and Lake Manly existed, a prehistoric lake known as Furnace Creek Lake occupied the area (beginning roughly 9 million years ago). Over several million years, sediments—saline muds, gravels from nearby mountains, and ashfalls from the then-active Black Mountain volcanic field—accumulated on the lake bottom, forming what is now called the Furnace Creek Formation (mudstones, siltstones, and related deposits).
Around 5 million years ago the lake dried up. Later tectonic activity—widening and sinking of Death Valley plus uplift of the Black Mountains—tilted the sediments. Rare but intense rains then carved the soft rocks into the intricate badlands seen today. Darker lava caps from eruptions 3–5 million years ago resist erosion in places and help explain why Manly Beacon stands higher than surrounding ridges. The primary source of borate minerals historically mined in the area is also the Furnace Creek Formation.
History and Namesake
The point is named for Christian Brevoort Zabriskie (1864–1936). Born October 16, 1864, at Fort Bridger, Wyoming Territory (where his father was stationed), he worked early as a telegrapher for the Virginia & Truckee Railroad in Carson City, Nevada, and held various jobs in Nevada mining towns (including banking and even a partnership in a mortuary).
In 1885 he was hired by Francis “Borax” Smith to supervise Chinese laborers for the Pacific Coast Borax Company near Candelaria, Nevada. He rose to become vice president and general manager, serving about 36 years until retiring in 1933. Under his tenure the company expanded operations into Death Valley (famous for its 20-mule-team borax transport) and later other sites. The overlook itself was developed by the Pacific Coast Borax Company in the late 1920s as a roadside stop for automobile visitors to view Manly Beacon and the badlands, well before the area became Death Valley National Monument in 1933 (later a national park). Zabriskie died on February 8, 1936.
Role in Popular Culture
Zabriskie Point has long attracted artists, filmmakers, and photographers for its otherworldly appearance.
Michelangelo Antonioni’s 1970 film Zabriskie Point takes its title from the location. Key scenes, including a lengthy desert sequence with the protagonists and a surreal, choreographed group of bodies in the dunes (sometimes called the “orgy” scene), were shot there. The film was a commercial and critical failure on release but later gained cult status for its cinematography, countercultural themes, and soundtrack (featuring Pink Floyd and others).
U2’s 1987 album The Joshua Tree is closely linked to the site. In December 1986, photographer Anton Corbijn and the band (along with designer Steve Averill) drove through the California desert seeking images that captured themes of America, the desert, and a sense of displacement. The iconic black-and-white cover photograph of the four band members was taken at Zabriskie Point. The landscape’s stark, cinematic quality suited the album’s widescreen aesthetic; the actual lone Joshua tree that appears in other photos (and inspired the title) was found nearby along Highway 190, not in Joshua Tree National Park (which is more than 200 miles away). Working titles had included “The Two Americas” and “The Desert Songs”; the final name came after Corbijn recounted the Mormon settlers’ association of the tree’s form with the biblical Joshua. The shoot was brief and cold; the band’s serious expressions partly reflected the freezing conditions.
The location continues to draw visitors, photographers, and fans of the album, and it has appeared in other media (including later television productions). Its combination of geological drama, mining-era history, and cultural associations makes it one of Death Valley’s most iconic and photographed viewpoints, especially at sunrise and sunset when the colors of the badlands are most vivid.
Zabriskie Point Map
References
Castle Dome Landing – Yuma County
Castle Dome Landing was a historic steamboat landing and short-lived boomtown on the banks of the Colorado River in what is now Yuma County, Arizona (then Arizona Territory). It served as the primary river port and logistical hub for the Castle Dome Mountains mining district, located roughly 15–20 miles (about 17 miles / 27 km) to the east.
Founding and Early Development
Prospectors discovered mineral deposits (initially sought as silver but largely argentiferous galena—lead ore with silver content) in the Castle Dome Mountains in the early 1860s. Evidence of earlier Native American mining activity existed in the area. In 1863, the Castle Dome Mining Company, associated with Conner and Jacob Snively (a Texas prospector linked to Sam Houston), acquired claims and planned a riverside shipping point. Snively, along with associates including A. Bowman and R.F. Mastin, established the landing on roughly 640 acres along the Colorado River in June 1863. It was positioned at a natural bend approximately 17–20 miles (by land) or about 35 miles (by river) north of Yuma (then Arizona City), with the mines lying roughly 17 miles (27 km) east of the river. The site served as a depot for shipping ore downstream toward California for smelting and for receiving supplies, equipment, and passengers.
Serious mining operations were delayed until about 1869 by hostilities with Native American groups. The inland mining camp that developed was initially known as Pitoti (after a local plant) and later renamed Castle Dome; a post office under that name operated briefly from December 17, 1875, to December 4, 1876. As the riverside facilities grew more important, the settlement became known as Castle Dome Landing. Its post office reopened under the new name on August 6, 1878, and operated until June 16, 1884.
At its height in the late 1870s and early 1880s, the landing featured a general store, hotel, saloon, stage agency, smelting furnace (or works), and a justice of the peace. Population estimates vary widely: some contemporary or later accounts claimed peaks exceeding 3,000 (briefly rivaling Yuma and nearly influencing the county name), while others described only a few dozen permanent residents amid transient activity. It also drew visitors from Yuma for celebrations, notably Mexican Independence Day on September 16.
Role in the Colorado River Steamship Industry
Before reliable railroads, shallow-draft steamboats were the primary commercial link along the lower Colorado River, connecting the Gulf of California (and ocean shipping) with interior forts, mines, and settlements as far as El Dorado Canyon in present-day Nevada. George A. Johnson & Company (later reorganized as the Colorado Steam Navigation Company, or C.S.N.Co., around 1869) dominated the trade after early experiments beginning with the side-wheeler Uncle Sam in 1852 and the more successful General Jesup. The company operated a fleet of sternwheelers and barges suited to the river’s shifting sandbars, seasonal low water, and snags. Freight rates dropped dramatically compared with overland wagon transport from San Diego, enabling mining of lower-grade ores near the river.
Castle Dome Landing was the first regular upstream stop for steamboats leaving Yuma. It served as the supply and shipping depot for the Castle Dome mining district, handling outbound lead, silver, and other ores (and some processed products from local adobe furnaces or smelters) as well as inbound mining equipment, food, merchandise, mail, and passengers. Steamers typically made the run several times weekly during peak periods when water conditions allowed. The landing’s location at a convenient river bend facilitated docking and loading.
Ships known to stop there included vessels of the Colorado Steam Navigation Company fleet:
- The sternwheeler Gila (launched 1873; ~149 feet long, shallow draft) was a workhorse of the lower river and is specifically documented at Castle Dome Landing (including a historical photograph of the vessel there). It regularly handled freight and passengers on this route.
- The Mohave (and later Mohave II, a larger vessel of 1876) also called regularly. Captain Lorenzo Blackmar, an experienced navigator who arrived on the Colorado around 1865, is associated with operations involving the Mohave in the landing’s early development.
Other fleet vessels such as the Cocopah operated on the broader lower Colorado route that included stops at Castle Dome Landing among many other landings (e.g., Ehrenberg/La Paz area, Fort Mojave, Hardyville). Passenger fares reflected the short distance from Yuma (historically noted as about $5 cabin fare to Castle Dome). The arrival of the Southern Pacific Railroad at Yuma in 1877 reduced the overall importance of river transport for many commodities, though steamers continued for some time on remaining segments.
Decline and Aftermath
Mining activity slowed as higher-grade ore diminished, and the post office closed in 1884. The landing’s commercial role faded with the broader decline of Colorado River steamboating (effectively ending as a major commercial system after the construction of Laguna Dam around 1909 and other dams). The inland Castle Dome district saw intermittent revivals, including significant lead production during World War I and especially World War II (when the Arizona Lead Company and others reopened operations). Mining in the broader district continued sporadically into the 1970s before final closure.
The original riverside site of Castle Dome Landing was submerged beneath the Imperial Dam reservoir (Martinez Lake) after the dam’s completion in the late 1930s. The inland mining camp site, however, was acquired in 1994 by Allen and Stephanie Armstrong and developed into the Castle Dome Mines Museum, an open-air historic site with dozens of restored and reconstructed period buildings and artifacts illustrating the mining and frontier era.
Castle Dome Landing exemplifies the brief but transformative era of Colorado River steamboating, which linked isolated desert mining districts to national and international markets and helped open the Arizona Territory to commercial development before railroads and dams fundamentally altered the river and the landscape.
Eureka Landing – Yuma County Ghost Town
Eureka (also known as Eureka Landing), Arizona, was a short-lived mining settlement and steamboat landing on the east (Arizona) bank of the Colorado River. It is now a ghost town in La Paz County (originally part of Yuma County during its active period). It operated primarily from 1863 through the 1870s.
Founding and Early Development
In the fall of 1863, silver strikes in the Chocolate Mountains of Arizona led to the formation of the Eureka Mining District. Eureka Landing and the nearby settlement of Williamsport developed to serve these mines, providing a riverside point for supplies, equipment, and ore shipment. Both landings and the district appear on the official 1865 Map of the Territory of Arizona (compiled under territorial authority and showing contemporary explorations and settlements along the river).
Eureka consisted of a small cluster of adobe buildings on the riverbank, located about 45 miles upriver from Arizona City (present-day Yuma) and roughly 2 miles downriver from Williamsport. Across the Colorado River lay the Picacho Mining District in California. The site sat in a narrowing stretch of the river corridor amid the Chocolate Mountains, with cottonwoods and willows nearby. Prospectors in the district included Sonorans, Papagos (Tohono O’odham), and Yaquis, among others, drawn by the silver discoveries that followed earlier gold rushes in the broader lower Colorado region (such as the 1862 La Paz rush).
The landing functioned as a utilitarian outpost rather than a large town. Its primary purpose was logistical support for the Eureka District mines and adjacent areas such as Castle Dome. High-grade silver-lead ore was among the cargoes shipped downstream for milling.
Role in the Colorado River Steamship Industry
Steam navigation on the lower Colorado River (from the Gulf of California upstream) began in the early 1850s to supply Fort Yuma more economically than overland wagon freight from California or San Diego. George A. Johnson & Company (later reorganized as the Colorado Steam Navigation Company, or CSNC, around 1869) dominated the trade with shallow-draft paddle-wheelers (initially side-wheelers, then primarily stern-wheelers) designed for the river’s sandbars, shifting channels, snags, and seasonal low water. These vessels carried military supplies, mining machinery, provisions, passengers, and ore, often towing barges for greater capacity. Freight rates dropped significantly compared with overland transport (e.g., around $25 per ton to closer landings like Eureka and Williamsport by the mid-1860s, versus higher rates farther upstream).
Eureka Landing (listed at approximately 45 miles upriver from Yuma/Arizona City) was a regular stop on the lower-to-middle river route during its active years (1863–1870s), positioned between Castle Dome Landing (about 35 miles upriver from Yuma) and Williamsport/Picacho. It supported the mining boom by receiving inbound supplies and shipping outbound ore. During high-water periods (notably May–June), steamers could deliver substantial monthly freight volumes along this stretch; by the late 1860s, annual river freight in the broader corridor exceeded several thousand tons.
Ships associated with service to Eureka and the surrounding landings (as part of the dominant Johnson/CSNC fleet operating regular runs on this section of the river) included:
- Cocopah (and later Cocopah II): Stern-wheelers active in the late 1850s–1860s/early 1870s that served lower-river mining landings.
- Mohave (including Mohave I and later the larger Mohave II): Stern-wheelers that ran the corridor supporting mines and settlements.
- Gila: A durable later stern-wheeler (launched 1873) that handled freight and passengers for many years on lower and middle river routes.
- Other fleet vessels of the era, such as Colorado II, that routinely stopped at the sequence of landings including Eureka while serving the Chocolate Mountains and Picacho districts.
These boats navigated challenging conditions and formed the economic lifeline for isolated mining camps until railroads undercut river transport.
Decline and Present Status
Activity peaked during the 1860s and 1870s amid Arizona Territory’s mining expansion. The Southern Pacific Railroad’s arrival at Yuma in 1877 (and subsequent bridging of the river) sharply reduced the cost advantage of steamboat freight for many routes. Upstream and mid-river landings like Eureka lost commercial viability as trade shifted to rail, leading to abandonment by the late 1870s or shortly thereafter.
Today, the Eureka Landing site on the riverbank has completely disappeared due to erosion, flooding, and shifts in the Colorado River’s course. The only remaining indicator is the abandoned Eureka Mine (also referred to as the Riverview Mine) at approximately 33°02′19″N 114°33′54″W, located in a canyon above the former landing within the area of the Imperial National Wildlife Refuge in La Paz County. The mine, which operated later into the period (reported production beginning around the mid-1870s in some accounts), yielded lead, zinc, silver, and gold; remnants include a shaft, open cuts, a stone cabin, foundations, and other relics accessible primarily by boat from the river.
Eureka Landing exemplifies the brief but important river-supported mining outposts of territorial Arizona, dependent on steamboat commerce that opened the lower Colorado corridor before the railroad era. Primary documentation draws heavily from Richard E. Lingenfelter’s Steamboats on the Colorado River, 1852–1916 (University of Arizona Press, 1978), which details the landings, fleet operations, and economic context.
Colorado II – Colorado River Steamship
The Colorado II was a stern-wheel paddle steamer (sternwheeler) that operated on the Colorado River from 1862 until it was dismantled in 1882. It was the second vessel of that name and the fifth steamboat overall on the lower Colorado River. It played a key role in freight and passenger transport supporting military posts, mining, and settlement in the desert Southwest during the peak of river steamboating.
Background and Construction
Steamboat service on the Colorado River began in the early 1850s to supply Fort Yuma (near present-day Yuma, Arizona) and other points upriver, as overland transport across the desert was difficult and expensive. George A. Johnson & Company dominated the trade. The original Colorado (often called Colorado I), launched in late 1855, was a 120-foot sternwheeler that could carry about 60–70 tons on a shallow draft of under two feet. It used an 80-horsepower engine and was captained at times by Isaac Polhamus (later known as the “Dean of the Colorado River”).
By 1862 the original Colorado was worn out. Its hull was dismantled in April 1862 at Arizona City (Yuma). The engine and boiler were removed and reused. Shipbuilder John G. North (a well-known California steamboat builder) constructed a new, larger hull in San Francisco. The parts were shipped to the Colorado River and assembled/launched at Arizona City under the guns of Fort Yuma, due to fears of Confederate raiders during the Civil War. The new vessel—Colorado II—entered service around December 1862 (some sources note May or later in the year for full operations).
Specifications
- Type: Stern-wheel paddle steamer (sternwheeler)
- Tonnage: 179 tons
- Length: 145 feet
- Beam (width): 29 feet
- Draft: Approximately 16 inches (very shallow, suited to the river’s sandbars and variable water levels)
- Engine: 80 hp steam engine reused from Colorado I
- Cargo capacity: Around 70 tons (some accounts note higher freight capacity in practice; one source cites capacity for 179 tons of freight, aligning with displacement)
- Builder: John G. North (hull); machinery from the prior vessel
- Owners: George A. Johnson & Company, later the Colorado Steam Navigation Company (C.S.N.Co., reorganized 1869)
These shallow-draft design features were essential for navigating the lower Colorado’s shifting channels, sandbars, and seasonal low water.
Role on the Colorado River
Colorado II operated primarily on the lower Colorado River, from the river mouth/delta area (near Port Isabel, Sonora, Mexico, on the Gulf of California) northward past Arizona City/Yuma, to landings serving mining districts, military posts (including Fort Mohave), and settlements in present-day Arizona, California, and Nevada. It carried freight (supplies, mining machinery, ore, wool, agricultural goods), passengers, and often towed barges to increase capacity.
It was part of Johnson’s fleet that held a near-monopoly after absorbing rivals in the 1860s. Key captains included Stephen Thorne. The vessel worked alongside others such as the Cocopah (I and later II), Mohave, Nina Tilden, and barges. Woodyards (often staffed by local Cocopah people) supplied fuel along the route. Trips supported the growth of mining (e.g., in areas like Eldorado Canyon) and military logistics. By the late 1860s–1870s the company (reorganized as C.S.N.Co.) ran multiple steamers and handled thousands of tons of freight and hundreds of passengers annually. Colorado II is documented in period photos, including at Fort Yuma landings and in a tidal dry dock at Port Isabel.
Competition from rival lines (e.g., in the mid-1860s) was short-lived. The arrival of the Southern Pacific Railroad at Yuma in 1877 (with a bridge soon after) sharply reduced the need for long-haul river transport, as rail took over east-west traffic. The steamboat company was sold to Southern Pacific interests. Remaining boats, including Colorado II, continued for a time on residual upper-river and local service.
Ultimate Fate
Colorado II remained in service until 1882, when it was dismantled (sources consistently list 1882; some note August). This was typical for aging Colorado River steamboats once machinery wore out or traffic declined—hulls were often broken up, and usable parts reused or the vessels beached. It outlasted several contemporaries (e.g., Cocopah II was dismantled around 1881). The broader steamboat era on the lower Colorado effectively ended with the construction of Laguna Dam (completed around 1909), which blocked navigation, though limited operations continued a few years longer with smaller vessels.
Colorado II exemplifies the practical, shallow-draft sternwheelers that opened the desert Southwest to reliable waterborne commerce for roughly three decades before railroads and dams rendered them obsolete. Primary details come from historical compilations of Colorado River steamboats, including Wikipedia summaries drawing on period accounts and works such as those referencing MacMullen’s Paddle-Wheel Days in California.
Cyclopic, Arizona – Mohave County Ghost Town
Cyclopic, Arizona is a former mining village and ghost town in Mohave County, located in the Gold Basin Mining District (eastern White Hills) near the head of Cyclopic Wash. It sits at an elevation of approximately 4,340–4,360 feet (about 1,320–1,329 m), roughly 5 miles northwest of Dolan Springs and accessible via dirt roads off U.S. Route 93 / Pierce Ferry Road. Coordinates are approximately 35°46′58″N 114°14′46″W.
The settlement existed primarily to house workers for the nearby Cyclopic Mine (also known historically as the Indian Secret Mine and other names). It never developed into a large town and is today a quiet site with limited ruins.
Early Mining in the Gold Basin District
Gold-bearing quartz veins in the broader Gold Basin–Lost Basin area were discovered in the early 1870s. A modest boom occurred around 1880 as prospectors targeted free-milling ores. Early mills operated in the district (including stamp mills near Grass Springs and Red Willow Spring). Development was limited by remoteness, scarce water and fuel, and the isolation of the White Hills.
The Cyclopic Mine itself was discovered in 1880 and ranks among the oldest and most productive in the Gold Basin District. It is a polymetallic deposit (primarily gold and silver, with lead, copper, and molybdenum) associated with quartz veins and breccias in Cretaceous granite and related to a mid-Miocene detachment fault. Mineralization includes gold-bearing quartz veins of Cretaceous age and later Tertiary ore linked to the detachment structure—the only mine in the district with significant late-stage Tertiary ore spatially related to the main detachment fault. Workings consisted mainly of shallow inclined shafts, drifts, crosscuts, and (later) open pits, most less than 30 feet deep initially.
Establishment of the Village and Peak Activity
By the early 1900s the Cyclopic area became a focus of activity. In 1901 the property was associated with Robbins & Walker; in 1904 it was acquired by the Cyclopic Gold Mining Company. In 1905 the company built a 40-ton-per-day cyanide mill along Cyclopic Wash below the mine. A post office opened the same year to serve the growing worker community. After the nearby Gold Basin (“Basin”) post office closed in 1907, Cyclopic became the district’s main postal hub.
The village housed miners and support workers in a remote desert setting. Daily life centered on mining labor under harsh conditions (cold desert climate with mild winters and hot summers). Water was a persistent challenge in the region.
Mining continued intermittently. Significant activity occurred from about 1919 to 1926 under the Gold Basin Exploration Company (which remodeled the mill); a new ore body was found in 1926 and capacity was increased. Later operators included Manta de Oro Mines (from 1936). Production episodes also took place in the early 1930s and 1936–1940/1942, including open-pit work in the final phase. Historical estimates credit the mine with over 4,000 ounces of gold from the 1890s through the late 1930s (with district-wide recorded figures higher when including other mines). Ore was typically low- to moderate-grade (examples include values around $7–8 per ton in gold in some periods).
Decline and Abandonment
The post office closed permanently in 1917 (sources note it was re-established in 1914 during a period of renewed activity before final closure). This marked the effective end of the village as a residential community. Broader factors included depleted shallow ores, high transportation costs, fluctuating metal prices (especially after World War I), the earlier burning of the Gold Basin mill (1906), and the remote location.
Mining at the Cyclopic and elsewhere in the district continued sporadically into the early 1940s but did not revive the settlement. The district saw little activity after about 1942. Later ownership (e.g., Saratoga Mines and others in the late 1970s) involved assessment and some residual interest, with resource estimates in later decades (such as tens of thousands of metric tons of low-grade ore), but no major modern production or resettlement occurred.
Present Day
Cyclopic is a classic Arizona ghost town. Surviving features include mine tailings, metal tanks (including a historic water tank), and building foundations. Access is by 2WD dirt roads (best in cooler months). It lies on or near public/BLM-influenced land in a sparsely populated part of Mohave County and is of interest mainly to history enthusiasts, rockhounds, and ghost-town explorers.
In summary, Cyclopic’s brief history mirrors many small Western mining camps: rapid growth tied to a single productive mine and mill in the early 20th century, followed by decline when economics and logistics no longer supported a permanent community. Its significance lies in its role within the Gold Basin District and as one of the more productive early gold-silver operations in the White Hills of northwestern Arizona.