Category: Destination4x4

Upper Antelope Canyon

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Located just outside of Page, Arizona Upper Antelope Canyon is arguably the best known slot canyon on the planet, yet few people will know its name outside of desert enthusiasts.  For those unaware of these structures, slot canyons are extremely narrow canyons, carved by water, which are typically just a few feet wide, but may be just a few inches.  The typically arid dessert can instantly turn into raging torrent of water in just a few minutes with just a few inches of water.  This water picks up speed, and debris such as sand, which scours the landscape including rock.  Antelope Canyon is found on Navajo Tribal land, and access to the canyon is only allowed with a Navajo Guide.

Molten Wave - Located in Antelope Canyon near Page, Arizona Antelope Canyon is the best known slot canyon.
Molten Wave – Located in Antelope Canyon near Page, Arizona Antelope Canyon is the best known slot canyon.
Parallelism – The smooth canyon walls of Antelop Canyon offer amazing photographic images.

Antelope Canyon is actually two separate slot canyons located a short distance from each other on either side of US 98.  Upper Antelope Canyon is know as Tse’ bighanilini, which in Navajo means “the place where water runs through rocks.”  Travel to the Canyon is done via Navajo run transport and you are allowed about 2 hours for your visit.  The site is at about 4,000 feet elevation and the canyon walls rise 120 feet above a stream bed.

I would like to thank the LeChee Chapter of the Navajo Nation for keeping this location sacred and available to us.

James Rathbun, Destination4x4.com

Access into the upper canyon is simply a walking into a canyon.  The trail is flat and sandy and very easy to manage.  Upon entrance into the Upper Antelope Canyon you are immediately struck by the texture and color of this place.  Just inside the entrance, is a small chamber which seems to great you, and the pink and orange glow of the light bouncing off the walls force your eyes up.  The geography is such, that the narrow opening high above you lets in a small fraction of the available light, and that light bounces down towards the bottom of the canyon.

Relatively short, Upper Antelope Canyon may be traversed in just 5 minutes.  However, this is simply a waste of your time if you just rush through.  The only complaint of the canyon, are the other visitors.  As a photographer, I have many photographs ruined by people turning a corner and walking into my frame while I was making an exposure.  This does not mean they were rude or anything but patient, but rather an unfortunate side effect of composing photographs with long exposure times in a 18 inch wide slot Canyon.

French Curve - Upper Antelope Canyon
French Curve – Upper Antelope Canyon

As with all beautiful things, we must share this location and Antelope Canyon is a must stop location every time I visit the area.  There is a hidden danger, in that the very forces which sculpt a slot canyon are still very much in play and every few years a new story will appear about someone being killed in a slot canyon due to a sudden flash flood.

I would like to thank the LeChee Chapter of the Navajo Nation for keeping this location sacred and available to us.

Upper Antelope Canyon Map

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve

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Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve
Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Photo by James L Rathbun.

Established in 1976, the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve is located just west of Mojave and boasts the most consistent blooms that the California Poppy.  The reserve does not plant or water the flowers, so the timing and abundance of the flowers is solely dependent upon rainfall each year.  The bloom season begins late winter and may last throughout the spring depending upon conditions.  In addition to the poppy, the Reserve also hosts a variety of species including Owl’s Clover, Davy Gilia, Goldfields, Lupine and Cream Cups.

The 1745 acre flower reserve ranges in elevation frim 2600 to 3000 feet in elevations and boasts 7 miles of trails.  There are limited facilities, but the reserve does have some wheel chair access.

The California Poppy the state flower of California.
The California Poppy the state flower of California. Photo by James L Rathbun.

The California Poppy ( Eschscholzia californica ) is a small perennial is typically a short flowering planet which boasts a vibrant orange bloom.  The flower itself grows on top of a sledder stalk and the four petal flower which has a silky texture, appears extremely delicate and vulnerable to the elements.  The flowers open each morning and close in the evening with the cooler air.

A Davey Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies. Photo by James L Rathbun.
A Davy Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies. Photo by James L Rathbun.

The California Poppy has a large range which included more of California, parts of Oregon, Washington, Nevada, Arizona and Northern Baja California.

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Map

The Standard Mill – Bodie, CA

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The Standard Mill, also known as the Standard Consolidated Mining Company Mill, was a pivotal element in the history of Bodie, California. The building is one of the most iconic images or Bodie, and dominates the landscape. Located in the Bodie Hills east of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, this mill played a crucial role in the processing of ore from one of the richest gold-mining areas in the American West.

The Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Photograph by James L Rathbun
The Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Formation of the Standard Company

The Standard Company was founded in 1877, quickly becoming one of the most prominent and productive mines in the Bodie District. The company consolidated several claims, thereby gaining control over a large portion of the mineral-rich land. The successful extraction and processing of gold ore by the Standard Company were instrumental in Bodie’s transformation from a small camp into a bustling mining town.

Construction and Operation of the Standard Mill

The Standard Mill was constructed in 1877 to process the ore extracted from the company’s mines. It employed the latest technology of the time, using a combination of steam power, gravity, and chemical processes to extract gold from the ore. The mill utilized the amalgamation process, which involved crushing the ore to a fine powder and then using mercury to separate the gold. This process was later supplemented with cyanidation, which allowed for the extraction of gold from low-grade ore, significantly improving recovery rates.

Looking up at the trestle bridge which is used to haul gold ore into the Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Two large mortar boxes are visible in the foreground. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Looking up at the trestle bridge which is used to haul gold ore into the Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Two large mortar boxes are visible in the foreground. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Technical Details

Originally, as built, the mill is powered by large steam boilers. There boilers are fed using wood brought up to Bodie on the Bodie and Benton Railroad. The mill initially featured a 20-stamp system, but as operations expanded, it was upgraded to a 30-stamp system. Later, the mill is converted to Hydroelectric power from a plant built approximately thirteen miles from the town at Dynamo Pond.

Ore is loaded into the mill using one of two trestles. The primary trestle connects to the backside of the mill, and used to haul ore from the mines deep inside mines inside of the mountain. The secondary trestle is sloped to the north and is used to haul ore up sevens stories above the the loading room. From there, the ore is sorted with grizzly bars before being dropped into the powerful stamps.

The now quiet stamps of the Standard Mill in Blodie, CA could be heard from four miles away. Photograph by James L Rathbun
The now quiet stamps of the Standard Mill in Blodie, CA could be heard from four miles away. Photograph by James L Rathbun

The stamps, which were heavy iron rods, repeatedly crushed the ore into a fine powder. This powder was then passed over mercury-coated copper plates, where the gold particles would adhere to the mercury. The amalgam of gold and mercury was then collected and heated to separate the gold from the mercury.

Economic Impact and Contribution to Bodie’s Growth

The Standard Mill was the most significant factor in Bodie’s economic boom during the late 19th century. By 1879, Bodie’s population had swelled to approximately 10,000 people, with the Standard Company producing gold worth millions of dollars by today’s standards. The wealth generated by the mill attracted a diverse population, leading to the establishment of various businesses, schools, and a newspaper. During the height of operations, the stamps from the mill could be heard four miles away, and operated twenty-four hours per day, six days a week.

Ore entering into the the smelting room at the left in the form of 400lb ingots. Standard Mill, Bodie,
Ore entering into the the smelting room at the left in the form of 400lb ingots. Standard Mill, Bodie,

Challenges and Decline

All the mining and milling activities of the Standard Mining Co., came to their conclusion with the pouring of a bullion bar in the smelting room.
All the mining and milling activities of the Standard Mining Co., came to their conclusion with the pouring of a bullion bar in the smelting room.

Despite its success, the Standard Mill faced numerous challenges, including harsh weather conditions, fires, and fluctuating gold prices. The mill experienced several fires, the most devastating occurring in 1898, which necessitated extensive rebuilding. Additionally, as the richest veins of ore were exhausted, the profitability of the mill declined. The Standard Company ceased operations in 1913, marking the end of Bodie’s major gold production.

Preservation and Historical Significance

Today, the Standard Mill stands as a testament to Bodie’s rich mining history. It is one of the best-preserved examples of a 19th-century mill in California. The site is now part of Bodie State Historic Park, established in 1962, which aims to preserve the town and educate the public about its historical significance. The mill’s machinery, structures, and surrounding buildings offer valuable insights into the technological advancements and industrial processes of the time.

The Hoover House served as housing for the Director of Operations of the Standard Mill in Bodie. Photography by James L Rathbun
The Hoover House served as housing for the Director of Operations of the Standard Mill in Bodie. Photography by James L Rathbun

Tours are available several times per day for a tickets price of $6 a person. The hour long takes you past the Hoover House up past the stream plant to the trestle, which fed ore up the the top of the mill. From there, the tour route enters the machinery room and power room before dropping into the slucing room and clean up rooms.

The Standard Mill was a cornerstone of the town’s mining industry and played a vital role in its economic development. Through its innovative use of technology and its contribution to gold production, the mill significantly influenced the growth and prosperity of Bodie during its peak years. Today, it remains an important historical site, providing a window into the challenges and achievements of the mining era in the American West.

The Standard Mill Map

More Standard Mill Photographs

A Large Lathe located in the Standard Mill, Bodie, CA - Photo by James L Rathbun
A Large Lathe located in the Standard Mill, Bodie, CA – Photo by James L Rathbun
A large drill press and a shaper are located in the machine shop of the Standard Mill, Bodie CA. Photo by James L Rathbun
A large drill press and a shaper are located in the machine shop of the Standard Mill, Bodie CA. Photo by James L Rathbun

The Assassination Attempt of Virgil Earp

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Virgil Earp 1843 -1905
Virgil Earp 1843 -1905

The assassination attempt on Virgil Earp, a key figure in the law enforcement of the Old West, occurred on December 28, 1881, in Tombstone, Arizona Territory. This event was part of the larger conflict known as the Earp-Cowboy feud, which culminated in the infamous Gunfight at the O.K. Corral.

Background

Virgil Earp, along with his brothers Wyatt and Morgan, was heavily involved in law enforcement in Tombstone. The town, at the time, was a hotbed of tension between the Earps and the Cowboys, a loosely organized group of outlaws and rustlers. The Gunfight at the O.K. Corral on October 26, 1881, where Virgil played a leading role as Tombstone’s town marshal, escalated these tensions. In this shootout, three Cowboys—Tom McLaury, Frank McLaury, and Billy Clanton—were killed, while Virgil and his brothers emerged relatively unscathed. This event intensified the animosity between the Earps and their enemies.

The Assassination Attempt

On the night of December 28, 1881, Virgil Earp was ambushed while walking down Allen Street in Tombstone. He was on his way from the Oriental Saloon to the Cosmopolitan Hotel, where he and his wife were staying. As Virgil passed by the intersection of Fifth and Allen streets, he was shot from behind with a shotgun. The blast struck his left arm and shoulder, shattering his humerus bone and causing severe injuries.

Despite the severity of his wounds, Virgil survived the attack, though he was permanently maimed. His left arm was nearly useless for the rest of his life. The attack on Virgil Earp was widely believed to be an act of revenge by the Cowboys for the events at the O.K. Corral. However, no one was ever officially charged with the crime. Ike Clanton and his associates, who had been involved in the earlier conflict with the Earps, were prime suspects, but insufficient evidence and the chaotic nature of Tombstone’s justice system at the time made it difficult to pursue any legal action.

Aftermath

The attack on Virgil Earp further inflamed the feud between the Earps and the Cowboys. Just a few months later, on March 18, 1882, Morgan Earp, another of Virgil’s brothers, was shot and killed in another ambush. This event prompted Wyatt Earp to lead a vendetta ride against the Cowboys, resulting in a series of violent encounters and killings.

Virgil Earp, despite his injury, continued to serve as a lawman. He left Tombstone in 1882 and eventually settled in California, where he served as a law enforcement officer in Colton and other areas. He lived until 1905, passing away at the age of 62.

The assassination attempt on Virgil Earp remains a significant event in the history of the American West, symbolizing the violent and often lawless nature of frontier life during that era.

Testimony of R. J. Campbell in the Preliminary  Hearing in the Earp-Holliday Case Campbell

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The "Gird Block" in Tombstone, Arizona, housing (L-R) the Old Hotel Nobles, the Tombstone Epitaph, and the Mining Exchange Building. The Mining Exchange was where the Earps and Doc Holliday defended themselves against murder charges after the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral. At far right is Schieffelin Hall.
The “Gird Block” in Tombstone, Arizona, housing (L-R) the Old Hotel Nobles, the Tombstone Epitaph, and the Mining Exchange Building. The Mining Exchange was where the Earps and Doc Holliday defended themselves against murder charges after the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral. At far right is Schieffelin Hall.

Testimony of R. J. Campbell
in the Preliminary  Hearing in the Earp-Holliday Case,
Heard before Judge Wells Spicer

November 23, 1881

On this twenty-third day of November, 1881, on the hearing of the above entitled cause, on the examination of Wyatt Earp and J. H. Holliday; R. J. Campbell of Tombstone, a witness of lawful age, being produced and sworn, deposes and says as follows: 

R. J. Campbell, Tombstone, Arizona Territory, Clerk of the Board of Supervisors, of Cochise County, Arizona Territory.

(Q) [Question not written.]

(A) I know Ike Clanton and know William Clanton and Frank McLaury, and only knew Tom McLaury by sight. Had no acquaintance with him.

(Q) Did you know the reputation of the three former during their lives and that of Ike Clanton for coolness and courage and for expertness and dexterity in the use of firearms?

[Prosecution objects. Overruled.]

(A) The reputation of Frank McLaury was a brave and courageous man and that he was an expert in the use of firearms. Ike Clanton is the same. William Clanton, I can’t say for him, only by reputation, that he was an expert in the use of firearms. I did not know Tom McLaury, only by sight.

(Q) [Question not written.]

(A) I saw all of them on that day. I came down the street [in] the morning and someone told me that the Earp boys and Ike Clanton had had some trouble.1 I went to Wallace’s Court, and Wyatt Earp went in ahead of me. He took a seat on a bench inside of the railing. Ike Clanton was sitting on the outside of the railing. A few minutes after I got in, Wyatt Earp looked towards Ike Clanton and said, “You have threatened my life two or three times and I have got the best of evidence to prove it, and I want this thing stopped!”, or words to that effect. Some other conversation ensued that I don’t remember, when Wyatt Earp walked up to the railing and facing Ike Clanton said, “You cattle thieving son-of-a-bitch, and you know that I know you are a cattle thieving son-of-a-bitch, you’ve threatened my life enough, and you’ve got to fight!”, and Ike Clanton made the remark, “Fight is my racket, and all I want is four feet of ground!”

(Q) [Question not written.]

(A) Morgan Earp and Ike Clanton were having an excited conversation about arresting and knocking him down. Ike turned to Morgan Earp and said, “If you fellows had been a second later, I would have furnished a Coroner’s Inquest for the town!”

(Q) What did [you] gather from the context of the conversation that Ike Clanton meant by, “a second” later second later than what?

[Prosecution objects. Sustained.]

CROSS-EXAMINATION

(Q) Regarding Ike in court, and his wounds, “if any?”

(A) I don’t know what he was there for, only from hearsay. I understood he was there under arrest for carrying concealed weapons. He was holding a handkerchief to the side of his head. Did not pay any attention to it. Did not see him with any firearms there. I did not see Wyatt Earp have any firearms [in courtroom]. Morgan Earp, I think, had a rifle in his hands and a six-shooter. Did not see Judge Wallace there during the conversation just related. There were a great many people there and I am not positive as to who were there. Did not see Frank McLaury there, nor William Clanton, nor Tom McLaury.

(Q) Are Virgil Earp, Wyatt Earp, Morgan Earp, and Doc Holliday by reputation men of cool courage and experts in the use of firearms?

(A) They are.

(Q) How long had you known Frank McLaury on October 26th, last?

(A) Six months. His reputation [as stated in examination in chief] was a general reputation.

(Q) As to Ike’s remark about “Coroner’s Inquest for the town?

(A) The remark was made in Judge Wallace’s courtroom, and just after a conversation between Morgan Earp and Ike Clanton as to his arrest for carrying concealed weapons. It was said in the presence of a number of persons. A man called Coleman was there. I met him at the door on going in the room. I can’t remember the names of any others. It was stated in an ordinary tone of voice and there were other parties as near to him as I was.

(Q) I will ask, if, when Ike Clanton was in Wallace’s courtroom under arrest as you have stated, was that the time that Wyatt Earp said to Ike Clanton: “You cattle thieving son-of-a-bitch, and you know you are a cattle thieving son-of-a-bitch, you’ve got to fight!”?

(A) Yes sir. That was the time.

(Q) Before you heard what you stated in your last answer, did you hear Ike Clanton say anything at that place and time?

(A) This conversation took place just after I got in; and when I got in, Morgan Earp and Ike Clanton were talking excitedly.

(Q) Who was talking to Ike Clanton when he says, “Fight is my racket,” as you stated [before]?

(A) Wyatt Earp was talking to him.

(Q) When did you see Tom McLaury, Frank McLaury, and William Clanton?

(A) The last time I saw of them, they were going into the O.K. Coral, before the difficulty.

(Q) You stated in your examination in chief that Wyatt Earp told Ike Clanton, in Wallace’s courtroom, that he, Clanton, had threatened his life enough. What reply, if any, did Clanton make to that?

(A) He made no reply that I heard.

[Signed] R. J. Campbell

References