Camping Tents

Our tent located in a large campsite in the Mid Hills Campground in the Mojave National Preserve.
Our tent located in a large campsite in the Mid Hills Campground in the Mojave National Preserve.

My wife and I just got back from a camping trip in Death Valley National Park a few weeks ago.  During this trip, for the first time we used a new “Family Sized” doom tent.  The camping tents sleeps 6 people, is tall enough for me to stand up, came with a rain fly and outside vestibule.  The new tent certainly had it all, which also caused me to think back to all the tents I have used and known.

Pup Tents

The earliest and oldest tent I have used was a 1950’s era pup tent my father used in the Boy Scouts during the late 1950’s.  The tent was nothing more than a piece of green canvas, two polls, wooden stakes and some string.  The tent had no floors and no doors at either end.  I used this tent once when I was about 9 years old, in my back yard.  My dad helped me set it up in our backyard.  From what I remember, it took about  10 hours to set.  Most of this was watching my confused dad trying to remember how it was supposed to work.  As I recall several of the wooden stakes split in the touch enriched soil of our backyard lawn.   Once erected, and musty and the smell of mildew filled the air, but after a few hours it was aired out enough to crawl underneath.  There was only enough room for my sleeping bag, and the tent was just tall enough that I could crawl underneath looking much like a WW2 G.I. going underneath the barbed wire.

That night, I slept under the “stars” in Los Angeles, CA.  It was a mild fall evening as I recall, yet somehow my dads old pup tent managed to make it colder.  Now having any doors meant that our cat could wander in during the night and scare me, which he did.  I woke up early in the morning, went inside the house and finally got some sleep. I do not know whatever happened to this tent.  It was better than nothing, but just barely.

Out Camping Tent at Homestake Dry Camp - A privative campsite at Racetrack Valley
Homestake Dry Camp – A primative campsite at Racetrack Valley

Family Tents

During the late 70’s my family went camping a lot with my cousins.  I don’t recall the true “owner” of tent, but the group had a family style tent.  This thing was huge and seemed perfectly suited to host a sultan and his harem.  Anyways, this thing was a beast and required a troop of 6 to move it into place.  I know for a fact that when it was collapsed from the previous trip my mom and/or aunt would spend a hour sweeping out all the dust,dirt and grime brought in by four boys,  It always confused me that each time we setup the tent again, we unfolded it to a cloud of dust and it was dirty inside.

These were great tents if weight was no object, but I suspect that these tents would not do well in a breeze yet alone a windy night.  There was a complex exoskeleton of polls which could never be assembled unless you had a masters in engineering.  There was one large door, and a floor, which is a much needed feature over my dads pup tent.  I don’t remember any windows, but I do recall that unlike my dads pup tent which “cooled the air”, this tent always ran HOT.

Modern Pup Tent

Prior to a spot horse packing trip in the early 1980’s.  Dome tents had yet to come into their own.  My folks purchased two pup tents for the trip.  The modern version of the pup tent was constructed with rip stop nylon and did include a floor, short side walls, a closed off back along with a door and screen door.  The tent did not include any sort of rain fly, so my folks made one witch attach using a three inch standoff my dad built on his lathe.  This proved very important as during the trip we were deluged with rain.

Dome Tents

Dome tents have dominated the market since they were introduced to the market.  They range in size from small two man models to large family sized.  They may contain multiple rooms, vestibules and some have a small door to access an ice chest to gain access to a much needed beverage.  All in all they are the best of the best, strong, flexible and lightweight.

There are no restrooms at Camp Phallus in Caruthers Canyon
There are no restrooms at Camp Phallus in Caruthers Canyon

Many years ago I was camping with a boy scouts at the annual desert caravan, which was a large camp out with scouts from around southern CA.  There were probably 800 campers there that weekend.  The previous year high winds buffeted our campsite, and learning from the previous year I came prepared.  During the day I erected my dome tent which was about six feet tall.  Knowing the winds were coming, I ran a guy wire from each of the polls out 50 feet.  Whenever possible, I would tie it down to a sage bush.  So, I effectively had my tent anchored to the earth in a 50 foot radius all around.  A few of my friends made fun of me for my setup.

And then the winds came….

Throughout the night, the winds howled.  It was far, far worse than any previous year.  It was difficult to sleep with the sound of the wind buffeting the tent.  After a long and sleepless night, I emerged from my tent to discover the damage done by the winds that night.  It wipe out the camp, the entire dessert caravan.  Outhouses were lifted and thrown 100 feet, and broke car windshields.  Worst of all, every tent was broken, torn and shattered by the wind.  Tent poles were split, bowed and broken.  Every tent was wiped out…. except mine.

Old Mojave Road Trip Report

After our recent trip to the center section of the Old Mojave Road, my wife Heather was really excited to run the western section and complete the entire length of the trail. Her idea was to drive the western section on our way to our annual trip to Big Bear, CA over the Memorial Day holiday. I worried that such a trip during this time of year could be a rough trip due to high temperatures in the desert. In late April we finished the center section in Baker, CA and the air temperature was only 107 degrees. Despite my concerns, we gladly planned our trip and embraced her good idea.

Afton Canyon in the Mojave National Preserve.
Afton Canyon in the Mojave National Preserve.

As we prepared for our trip, gathered our gear, food, and checked out the mechanics of the jeep, I decide to check the local weather report. To my surprise, weather.com predicted the temps in the mid 80s with clear sky’s and light wind. The weather could not be any better.


Another interesting development, is that Heather kept offering to drive in the event I got tired of driving. She didn’t just offer once, but several times per day for several days before our departure. Being the good husband that I am, after about twenty or thirty offers, I started to get the idea that, subconsciously, Heather might want to drive this run. So after some arm twisting and bartering, I finally convinced her and Heather agreed to take the wheel. This of course, would be a great source of confusion for me during the trip, however I am certain I can persevere this new dynamic. This is not to imply that Heather is not one of the finest drivers I know, far from it.

An old trail leads off through the lava and into the great unknown.
All packed up, we left the Las Vegas area at 7:00 am on Saturday morning, and headed towards Baker. A quick stop in Baker, we topped off the fuel tank and took our respective bathroom breaks. Once Heather reminded me that she was driving this trip, I took my seat on the right had side of the jeep and we headed down Kelbaker Road.

It took me a few miles, but soon I became used to having my coffee cup on the wrong side, no pedals, eta… This must be what it is like in England. The map and guide-book took some getting used to as well, but somehow I managed to get us to the trail head. It certainly didn’t hurt that we were here just a few weeks before. A quick turn on to the trail, and we stopped to air down the tires for some ride comfort.


After dreaming of this trip for the past few weeks we are finally on our way. We followed the trail around 17 mile point and then turned southwest into the Mojave. The road steadily looses elevation as it cross a fallout zone of lava and start to head down into the valley.

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Old Mojave Road Trip Report West

After our recent trip to the center section of the Old Mojave Road, my wife Heather was really excited to run the western section and complete the entire length of the trail. Her idea was to drive the western section on our way to our annual trip to Big Bear, CA over the Memorial Day holiday. I worried that such a trip during this time of year could be a rough trip due to high temperatures in the desert. In late April we finished the center section in Baker, CA and the air temperature was only 107 degrees. Despite my concerns, we gladly planned our trip and embraced her good idea.
As we prepared for our trip, gathered our gear, food, and checked out the mechanics of the jeep, I decide to check the local weather report. To my surprise, weather.com predicted the temps in the mid 80s with clear sky’s and light wind. The weather could not be any better.

The dry soda lake located in the Mojave National Preserve and found next to Zzyzx Road offers a surreal view of the area. Photograph by James L Rathbun
The dry soda lake located in the Mojave National Preserve and found next to Zzyzx Road offers a surreal view of the area. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Another interesting development, is that Heather kept offering to drive in the event I got tired of driving. She didn’t just offer once, but several times per day for several days before our departure. Being the good husband that I am, after about twenty or thirty offers, I started to get the idea that, subconsciously, Heather might want to drive this run. So after some arm twisting and bartering, I finally convinced her and Heather agreed to take the wheel. This of course, would be a great source of confusion for me during the trip, however I am certain I can persevere this new dynamic. This is not to imply that Heather is not one of the finest drivers I know, far from it.

All packed up, we left the Las Vegas area at 7:00 am on Saturday morning, and headed towards Baker. A quick stop in Baker, we topped off the fuel tank and took our respective bathroom breaks. Once Heather reminded me that she was driving this trip, I took my seat on the right had side of the jeep and we headed down Kelbaker Road. It took me a few miles, but soon I became used to having my coffee cup on the wrong side, no pedals, eta… This must be what it is like in England. The map and guide-book took some getting used to as well, but somehow I managed to get us to the trail head. It certainly didn’t hurt that we were here just a few weeks before. A quick turn on to the trail, and we stopped to air down the tires for some ride comfort.

After dreaming of this trip for the past few weeks we are finally on our way. We followed the trail around 17 mile point and then turned southwest into the Mojave. The road steadily looses elevation as it cross a fallout zone of lava and start to head down into the valley.

After a few more miles, we “discovered” the Little Cow Hole Mountain Mill Site just north of the road. The short drive over to the site was well worth it and provided you are at all interested in locations such as these. There is a large concrete foundation which appears to be the footings for the mill itself, along with several retaining walls. There is a very minor uphill section of to the foundation level of the mill. Heather did a great job on this minor obstruction. I am still amazed that she easy handled the slope despite my exaggerated gesturing and attempts to apply the brake or depress the gas from the passenger seat.

Heading towards the Travelers Monument on the other side of the dry soda lake.
Heading towards the Travelers Monument on the other side of the dry soda lake.

The next stage of the Old Mojave Road, drops the remaining elevation down to the Soda Dry Lake. For those who drive the I-15 highway between Barstow and Primm, this is the large desolate dry lake bed just off the highway as you drop into Baker from the South. The Soda Dry Lake is a flat expanse, that when dry is easily passable. However, judging from the troughs through the dried mud, it seems to be very rough terrain to traverse unless you have significantly more horsepower and larger tires. Most definitely bad form in my opinion and I certainly would never put my Jeep to this test.

Driving across the soda lake is an awesome experience. Either you appreciate terrain such as this, or you don’t. The flat dry desolation along with the white color of the soda lake combines perfectly with the crunch below your feet and the wind blowing. Oddly enough, the higher the temperature and wind speed, the more I appreciate this environment. There is a tranquility in this place and really gives on the feeling that you are alone and out in the middle of no where.

Ryan climbed to the top of Travelers Monument
Ryan climbed to the top of Travelers Monument

We did make the prerequisite stop at the “Travelers” monument. My son Ryan added to the pile and we let Ryan and our Labrador Retriever, Rooger AKA the boys, run around and stretch their legs. The boys played while I explored the area photographically.

Again we loaded up the boys and continued our travels. Once we left the dry lake, we found ourselves in a deep sandy road after a quick right and then left turns at the “Granites” rock formation. There was no danger of getting stuck in the sand for us, but Heather was naturally concerned. She gained experience and confidence as we crossed over Shaw Pass and followed the rocky road down the backside. This was soon shattered when a high-pitched voice from the back seat sang out, “Mom, can you let dad drive?”

Once we crossed the rather nondescript pass, we dropped into the Mojave River Wash. This section of the trail is just sandy river bed and marked with either Cairns or railroad ties. During the Mojave River wash section, both Heather and I had to really keep an eye open for the markers. In many locations I noticed several parallel trails and multiple markers. For the most part you just travel in a western direction and keep to the left side of Cave Mountain.
Sandy conditions aside, this section of the trip was a lot of fun. There are an abundance of birds, and we jumped several large jack rabbits. As the terrain is sandy and with intermittent bushes, when we did see a rabbit, it was easy to follow them when they ran into the distance. Although we are in middle of the Mojave desert, an extremely harsh and arid place you would not know that considering the size and number of these rabbits.

Towards the end of the Mojave River Wash at the intersection with Basin Road, there is a large mining complex. We stopped for lunch and a hike. ’The boys’ were very exciting to hike an old track line which had rail road ties embedded into the rocky soil. One a future trip we will have to return and explore this area further as there are trails and roads all over this site. I don’t know much of the history of this spot, what was mined, etc… but this is a very interesting place and will be the subject of future adventures.

Back on the trail we headed towards and under the infamous railroad bridge. The bridge itself glistened in the sun and shined like a beacon in the distance. The bridge moaned as a train crossed over head on its way to drop off its cargo. I got out of the car to take some photos of the jeep and the bridge. Thankfully, Heather in an act of kindness did turn around and picked me up.

We continued to follow the river bed down and through Afton canyon. Afton Canyon is a gem of the Mojave desert. On the trail, we found a buried rail road car and soon crossed paths with the only other traffic on this forty mile side trip.
The rail road car is a great example of why the Mojave desert is such a wonderful place. Scattered across the landscape is the history of this country. Old rail cars, mines, camps, watering holes and even crashed jet airplanes can still be found lying around. You just need to learn to look.

Afton Canyon is just an amazing spot and the trail follows the riverbed through the water and wind-swept canyon. The colors and geology are amazing and photographically offer a lot of opportunities. A fence clocks the trail from following the river further for environmental rehabilitation purposes and the trail jumps up next to the train tracks for a while.

After two short water crossings this section of the Old Mojave Road dumps out into the Afton Canyon Campground. Once again Heather’s jeep confidence grew as I asked her to back up into the water crossing again to take some photographs of some cat tails growing in the river. The Afton Canyon Campground isn’t much to look at, and personally I would rather camp in the back country.

Once past the campground, we drove up the road towards the I-15. A quick stop to add some air pressure back into the tires and make us safe for high-speed travel. Once we aired up, Heather announced that she was tired and decided that I should drive. A bit over an hour later, we arrived at the house in Big Bear and unpacked. Following a quick dinner, the boys quickly crashed out.

This was the first time the Heather did significant driving on the back roads. She did a great job, and I am thrilled that she is taking to our trips with such a wonderful attitude and sense of adventure. This weekend, she drove 75 of the 110 miles of back road driving. I am very proud of her.

Eastern Sierras, Fall 2002

The Merced River flowing through Yosemite Valley.
The Merced River flowing through Yosemite Valley.

In late October I managed to get away from the office again, and again headed to the High Sierras. It is not a difficult decision to travel to the stomping grounds of Ansel Adams, Galen Rowell, and John Muir which is located just over 250 miles from my house. My brother and I again, over packed my Jeep, and set off for the Eastern Sierras early on a Saturday morning. Just over 6 hours later, we pulled into our camping site at Silver Lake campground, in the June Lake Loop.

After a very cold nights sleep, we took a short drive up to Mono Lake to a short hike to the Mono Lake Fissures, and a little bird watching. The Mono Lake fissures are found on Black Point and just of short hike over some steep and sandy terrain. No trails to be found, but a fun adventure none the less. My brother the Field Biologist went crazy over the bird populations to be found in the inland dead sea of California. After a week listening to my brother, I must admit that I am starting to develop an appreciation for our feathered friends. Mono Lake is a wonderful place for birding, as it is a major food source, and is the breeding ground for 80 – 90% of the California Gull population depending upon whom you believe.

Monday morning found another cold morning for us. We packed up our gear, and headed for a short drive over the Tioga Pass, and into Yosemite Valley. I had visited the valley the previous year, and vowed to return quickly. My first afternoon in the valley was spent exploring the Merced River, and composing reflections of Half Dome.

After a noisy nights sleep, we began our days activities. On the short list we wanted to visit the Mariposa Grove, and Glacier Point. The Mariposa Grove is a ‘small’ grove of Giant California Redwood trees. Small is a relative term, when you are describing the largest living things on the planet, but I personally was expecting huge numbers of these large trees. The scale of these trees is just amazing, and to compare them to any other thing, does not do them justice. After a quick 4 miles hike among the Giants, we drove to Glacier Point for the late afternoon light.

Glacier Point could quite frankly summarize the image of Yosemite. On on high granite pedestal, Glacier Point projects into the middle of the valley, and from a single location, one can see Yosemite Falls, Vernal Falls, Nevada Falls, North Dome, and of coarse the ever noble Half Dome. I knew what to expect when we pulled into the parking lot and took the short hike to the point, but to describe this place with words would be pointless for me. I choose to narrative this place 1000 words at a time. As the sun dropped, along with the temperature, the light on the Half Dome, yellowed and warmed the timeless granite. Just after sun down, the view of Hale Dome took a magnificent metamorphosis. The sun light shown turn the length of Yosemite Valley, through the narrow valley door and shown a wonderful pink alpen glow against the pastel blue sky!

The next day, we took a bit of a hiatus, and just wondered around the valley floor. A quick stop at the Visitor Center, and store accompanied a walk down the Merced River towards Mirror Lake.

Our time in the Yosemite Valley was unfortunately over, we headed back over Tioga Pass, and met up with a friend on Convict Lake just South of Mammoth Mountain. A small lake nestled in the glacier carved val lies of the sierra, Convict lake is a prime location for fishing, and my brother quickly caught three trout just feet from our campsite. We headed towards Mammoth to pick up much needed supplies.

We we started the next day, our newly enlarged party headed towards the Minaret Wilderness, Devil’s Postpile National Monument, and the San Joaquin river valley. On our daily hike, we jumped into the Ansel Adams Wilderness and dropped over to Rainbow Falls.

On our final full day, we again drove to Mono Lake as part of our show and tell to my friend. We spent the afternoon soaking in the Hot Springs just south of Mammoth.

** I took over 7 rolls of film on this trip. Unfortunately, during development the lab destroyed all of the images that I worked so hard to capture. I have only memories of this wonderful trip, and my galleries will not grow. **

Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve, Spring 2003

After a surprise day off, I another chance to visit the western end of Antelope Valley to play around with my camera at the Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve. I was not as excited this time around as the flower bloom was intense, but not nearly as spectacular just a few days before. But, a day out is a day out, and I was going to enjoy it. Nature was against us on this day, we had beautiful light, nice cloud layer to diffuse some light, and a 25 mph breeze that would just not let up all day.

A Davey Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies in the Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve.
A Davey Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies in the Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve.

My goal this spring was to get a nice flower shot that I would desire to blow up as a photograph, however, these conditions were not condusive towards this task and a true exercise in patience. It looks likely that I will not reach this goal this season, the flowers bloom has begun to wane, and my only hope appears to be in the foothills of the eastern sierras in a few weeks.

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