Category: Destination4x4

Utah Trip Report, Fall 2003

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Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah
Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah

This year’s trip was very unique, and will be hard to document in way that is interesting Utah trip. My immediate reaction is to throw up a ton of images and just write “look where I went”.

This years adventure started during the California Wildfires. Friends and family homes located in the San Bernardino Mountains were danger as we left and not all the news we had was good. My brother and I piled into his Four Runner under the smoke filled dawn and made the eight-hour drive to Zion National Park in Utah.

Since we had just over a days wait for our companions for the trip. My brother and I did several hikes out and around the main canyon in Zion while we waited for my photography partner and good friend John Farkas and his wife Abby to arrive.

A quick hike up to the Emerald Pools left us with a great view, but view great photographic opportunities. The quick moving white clouds above gave us great-diffused light, but this light would quickly vanish and made composing and hit and miss venture. That evening, we dropped in on Michael Fatali, and were fortunate enough to get a tour of his dark room and a little map review as well. Thanks Michael!

After losing a day to travel, we awoke near Dance Hall Rock in the Escalante Wilderness. After a morning breakfast we loaded up our backpacks and head out across the sand trail towards “Crack in the Wall”. “Crack in the Wall” is a “Class 2” rock scamper. Since we didn’t know that this really was, we didn’t worry too much as we hiked closer towards the canyon wall. We hiked over prehistoric petrified dunes, dried water pools, and cow trails as we edged ever closer towards the infamous “Crack in the Wall”.

Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail
Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail

“Crack in the Wall” is perhaps the most descriptive named structure that I have run across to date. A narrow crack in the towering canyon walls was formed by a large section of stone cleaving away from wall. Perhaps one of the more interesting hiking trails I have seen, we removed our heavy frame backpacks, broke out our rope, and quickly lowered the packs past the narrowest section of the trail. Another twenty minutes of hiking found us near the Escalante River. Light danced on the canyon walls, and reflections glowed in the shallow creek as we explored the canyons looking for the light.

Hiking towards crack in the wall.
Hiking towards crack in the wall.

After a three-hour hike out of the canyons of the Escalante River, we planned our next days excursion. The decided to head east down the John Burr trail and towards Capital Reef National Park. The Burr Trail is a nice paved windy road that is perhaps one of the most scenic roads I have traveled. We stopped many times on our travels this find day, as the diffused light was booming. Water carved towers of rock illuminated by the soft Utah sun passed by as we drove deeper and deeper into Capital Reef.

Another day of driving took us back towards Los Angeles. We were sad to see our expedition coming to a close, but time was against us. However, we still found time to visit a slot canyon just a few miles away from our route. We certainly could not pass this opportunity

Round Valley Draw slot canyon opens up in a streambed after a very short hike from the trailhead. We walked down the side of the canyon to survey the canyon before lowering ourselves deep into the heart of the Earth. I have stated it previously, but walking a slot canyon is a magical experience. Time, Water, and Sand carve these beautiful canyons for us to visit, and you just cannot appreciate this place until you have been there.

Another wonderful Utah trip.

Death Valley, Spring 2002

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Death Valley was a bit different from my experience last year. Last year, we explored the northern valley and drove over 250 miles per day. This year our goal was to see the central valley. My usual plan is to explore during the day, and scout locations. When the sun’s rays grow long in the afternoon, I am quickly off to take photos

The trip started with a short drive over to the ghost town of Skidoo for various mine exploring. The town itself is long since gone but, the the hills remain riddle with hundreds of mines, tailings, and tunnels. The only structure that remains is the mill, but the structure is now marked unstable, and explorers are discouraged from entering the site.

Thunderstorm in Death Valley National Park
Thunderstorm in Death Valley National Park

Later on this day, I took a hike out into the Dunes. I found it very  frustrating to see the huge volume of tracks from previous hikers and explorers. The majority of whom, seemed determined to continually stand or walk along the fragile ridges of the wind swept dunes. Compost ion proved to be a nightmare, and I did not want to bring home an image with foot prints in it. I continued on my way, dune after dune after dune. I found my subject on the far end of the dunes. Over one more ridge and the sand turned back into the wasteland that is the central valley floor. The image I saw in my head, was a low angle shot that pushed the depth of field, with a shallow sweeping curve of the dune ridge created by the strong desert winds. I did not get the exact composition that I was looking for, but the results have there own charm. I the failing desert light, I headed back across the dunes with my brother and arrived in camp well after sundown.

The next day in the valley typified the valley for me. In the morning we headed off for Darwin Falls, and I had some success. Later in the day, we encountered a violent wind storm. Sand rose hundreds of feet into the air, as I watched my chances for more work in the dunes vanish under the shifting sands. I might risk my self out in that storm, but I wouldn’t dare sand blast my camera lens in these harsh conditions. I spent the evening light enjoying a cocktail as I watch the sunset. I snapped a few of the sunset, but the light failed to turn, and I only really capture a far off desert sand storm.

We awoke the final day, and as the sun peaked over the horizon, the now familiar winds began again with a vengeance. Our camp was pummeled under the onslaught, as we watched as another campers tent gently flew overhead at an altitude of about 75 feet, and take off across the desert at high speeds. The majority of the day was spent traveling around the main valley hot sports. Even in early April, we could feel the heat of this place.

Sand dunes near Stovepipe Wells in Death Valley National Park
Sand dunes near Stovepipe Wells in Death Valley National Park

As the day waned, my brother and I drove towards the yellow hills of Zabriskie Point. Our friend the wind continued to follow us, and fellow visitors laughed a bit when they say me composing image with my camera, and putting all of the 6’1″ frame on top of the tripod to pin the camera to the earth to prevent distortion caused by the wind. It was under these conditions that I missed my first great shot. We by car in the hills above Zabriskie Point. While driving I took a quick glance in the side mirror and saw the most brilliant golden hue I have ever seen. My brother must have thought me insane as I slammed on the breaks, turned off the road, and grabbed my camera. I took off running. I needed some high ground to compose my shot. The late afternoon sun managed to piece the blackening ski, and found the yellow hills. The resulting color and light can never be described. Unfortunately, I was 5 seconds too late. As I opened the shutter, the intensity of light failed along with my opportunity.

Death Valley, Spring 2001

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Thunderstorm in Death Valley National Park
Thunderstorm in Death Valley National Park

This was my first photographic trip since purchasing my new camera, and getting back into the hobby. My companions included my father, brother and a family friend. Our original plan was to have an unstructured excursion into the back country of the Death Valley. Armed with two 4×4’s we figured we could go most places that we wanted to visit. We did not know where we would end up on any one night, and would plan the day as we went.

We took off from LA Wednesday night and drove up to Lone Pine to get an early start on Thursday. We camped overnight in the foothills of Mt. Whitney.

Thursday – March 8th

We awoke early in the morning, broke camp and drove into Lone Line for Breakfast. Then we proceeded North on 395 towards Big Pine. After a customary stop to see the elk herd, we continued north until we started East on the 168. Our rough idea was to run down Saline Valley on this day. However, a snow pack did not allow us to make the turn off. Although we did have the 4 by’s, our idea to have them get us out of trouble, and not into trouble, so we made our first plan change here. So we altered plans and headed off towards the Eureka Sand Dunes for lunch. After exploring the sand dunes for a while, we back tracked a few miles and headed off towards Crankshaft Crossing.

At Crankshaft Crossing, we headed north to explore the area a bit. After several hours, and a few miles, we soon realized that one of our navigators made a mistake, and could be get us back to the main road. After a few stops to reconnoiter, we found our selves back on the main road, and headed towards the Mesquite Springs camp ground for the night and a few well earned bottles of beer.

Friday – March 9th

Rhyolite, Nevada 1909
Rhyolite, Nevada 1909

We again packed up our entire camp and head off towards the Death Valley itself. We stopped for a quick visit at the Keene Wonder Mine. After the mine stop, we headed east Ryolite, but made the turn off towards Leadfield and Titus Canyon. We spent hours driving down Titus Canyon and exploring Leadfield and the various mines in the area. Titus Canyon is truly impressive, but a rain shower forced us down the canyon a bit faster than we would have liked.

After our egress from Titus Canyon, we headed north for a late lunch at Scotty’s Castle. On a round about trip back to Mesquite Springs, we stopped by Ubehebe Crater.

Saturday – March 10th

We awoke again early, and after lunch, headed out towards Race Track valley. I have never been to the race track, but after exploring several mines on the way found it a truly impressive structure. After lunch we then headed out towards the main valley, but no before some foolishness. Allow me to explain.

My father loves toys, but doesn’t necessarily admit it. So, today he finds his son out in Death Valley with a new camera. When I purchased the camera, the main feedback with I received from my father was to question whether or not I “needed” an auto-focus SLR with film advance at 3.5 fps. He did not disagree with me on my choice, he just questioned it a bit and thought that it would be a great way for me to “waste” film. So, here we are, out in the middle of no where in Death Valley, and my dad wants to play with my camera. So, when I hand it to him, he asks me to put the camera into auto film advance, predictive auto-focus, etc. While I drive trough a giant puddle on the road next to the race track by dad proceeds to shoot 18 frames on film in about 5 seconds! He later said that it was OK and still correct since HE was wasting MY film.

We drove all the way down down to the Artist’s palette, Devils Golf course, and a few other locations. We finally header out to Lone Pine to enjoy an easy drive home on Sunday.

Sunday – March 11th

We drove down to Lone Pine to gas up to our trip down 395. After gassing up, my brother’s Toyota would start. Although a great truck, it choose this day to act up and would not start. After diagnosing the problem, my brother and I drove up to Bishop to purchase the $17 part and then back. Once we got back, we were merrily heading down the valley and posted highway speeds.

We had a great time on the trip, but made a few mistakes. The photographing had some great opportunities, but I failed to capture an image that I am cruelly happy with. I have posted several of them here for narrative purposes.