Category: Points of Interest

Travelers Monument

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When travelling the Old Mojave Road, there is a tradition to pick and carry a rock, and carry the rock to the Travelers Monument.  The monument is located about half way along the Old Mojave Road, just south of the town of Baker in the dry soda lake.

The Travelers Monument located on the dry soda lake found on the Old Mojave Road
The Travelers Monument located on the dry soda lake found on the Old Mojave Road

Prior to our trip, my son took great time choosing the rock that we would contribute to the monument.  There were at least three re-picks for him to find the perfect stone.   Throughout our travels on that day, he took great delight in watching the stone which was on the floor below his feet.  It was a long day of waiting for him.

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Bert Smith’s Cabin

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Bert Smith's Cabin overlooks Camp Rock Springs
Bert Smith’s Cabin overlooks Camp Rock Springs

Located deep in the Mojave National Reserve exists a small stone building, known as Bert Smith’s Cabin, which serves as an ongoing monument to a national hero.  Bert Smith was a World War One veteran who moved to the Mojave in order to prolong his live and recover from the poison gas attacks which damaged his lungs during the war.  The original structure was built from wood, and later finished in stone.  Bert Smith lived at the site despite his prognosis, until the 1950’s.

Bert Smith's Cabin located in the Mojave National Reserve
Bert Smith’s Cabin located in the Mojave National Reserve
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Darwin Falls

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The waterfalls of Darwin are located on the western edge of Death Valley National Park near the settlement of Panamint Springs, California. Although there exists a similarly named Darwin Falls Wilderness adjacent to the waterfall, the waterfalls themselves are located in and administered by Death Valley National Park and the National Park Service.

Darwin Falls is a nice hike near Death Valley National Park, CA
Darwin Falls is a nice hike near Death Valley National Park, CA

There are several falls, but they are mainly divided into the upper and lower with a small grotto in between. At a combined 80 feet (24 m), it is the highest waterfall in the park.

The hike into Darwin falls is rather short and easy terrain to reach the shallow pools which form under the water fall. There are, however, multiple creek The narrow canyon does contain Cottonwood trees and willows and offers some shade from the sun as you approach the waterfalls. The creek and pools in the area, like almost every other water source in the desert form an oasis of life in the desert. Birds and amphibians are common.

My trip on the early spring found no other hikers on the trail and a serene place to visit. It is easy to image that even this rather easy hike could be quite rough when the summer sun scorches the landscape and temperatures climb.

There is no swimming at Darwin Falls and the creek is a source of drinking water.

Kokoweef Mine

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The Kokoweef Mine and in fact all of the trails and mines located in the Ivanpah / Mountain Pass area represent exactly why I started Destination4x4.  My wife and I routinely drive between our home in Las Vegas, NV and Los Angeles, CA to visit family and friends.  One trip we decided to jump off the 15 and just investigate the Mountain Area off of Bailey Road.  After a few nice discoveries, we continued our drive home and that night I opened up Google Earth and started investigating the area.

Kokoweef Mine from below - 2015
Kokoweef Mine from below – 2015

One of my discoveries was Kokoweef.  Immediately upon exiting the I-15 at Baily road was a sign for Kokoweef.  Little did I realize that I had just walked into a legend of the “Kokoweef River of Gold”.  Obviously, I don’t think I have discovered anything, but rather learned more of the desert history which surrounds us all and seldom seen or learned about.

My nephew and son searching for the "River of Gold" on Kokoweef peak.
My nephew and son searching for the “River of Gold” on Kokoweef peak.

According to Legend, three Piute Indians discovered cave system which became known as the Crystal Cave.  The cave system was reported to be thousands of feet deep, and contained an underground river 300 feet across which was rich with placer gold.  The location remained a secret for many years, until the 1930’s when  Earl F. Dorr learned of the cave system from a Indian ranch hand who worked on his fathers ranch.  According to the ranch hand, three brothers Oliver, Buck and George Peysert worked / mined the cave system and recovered some $57,000.00 for 6 weeks of work.  During one visit George Peysert is reported to have died

These mine cart rails are a little small to pull the amount of gold claimed to be here.
These mine cart rails are a little small to pull the amount of gold claimed to be here.

Armed with this little bit of knowledge, Mr. Door reportedly investigated the site with two other men.  Reportedly, we found the underground river which “Rises and Falls with Tidal Regularity”, along with fantastic geologic formations.  To protect his new find, Mr. Dorr blasted the tunnel closed.  On December 10, 1934 Mr Door swore and affidavit to which, he stated that he prospect the area for several days and with 10 lbs of of placer sand from the banks of the underground river was assayed a$2,144.47 per yard and $20 per once of gold.

Mr. Dorr died in 1957 without revealing the location of the cavern entrance to the underground river of gold.   From the point of his affidavit in 1934, the site has been submit to multiple mining claims, rumor, story and lawsuits.  It is of some note that Earl Dorr worked for another 23 years with the knowledge of a vaste cache of placer gold yet did not seem to act on this information.

The latest lawsuit in the area was closed in 2012, but to my knowledge no vast river of gold at the bottom of a 3000 foot canyon has yet to be rediscovered in the Mojave.

Currently, the two roads to the mine are closed on both sides, so you have to walk up to the mine sight.  The terrain is moderately steep, however erosion channels and loose rock make to hike more difficult but well worth the effort.  Access from the southern access road on considerabley shorter and not as steep.  Once at the top, you are great of the mine portal with is mostly closed and the mine cart rail.

Kokoweef Trail Map

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Lower Antelope Canyon

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Lower Antelope Canyon one of two slot canyons located off the highway 98 just outside of Page, Arizona near the Utah border.

Entering Lower Antelope Canyon
Entering Lower Antelope Canyon

Slot Canyons are formed in usually arid regions, where a little bit of rain falls, and fulls the dry rivers of the desert southwest.  The water can flash flood, which picks up speed and debris and scours the landscape.  Overtime, the water forces itself into cracks in the rock and widens the deepens the crack into a deep narrow canyon.   Lower Antelope is a commonly overlooked when compared the Upper Antelope Canyon, although does seem to be gaining in popularity.

Hasdestwazi, or “spiral rock arches ” as it is known to the LeChee Chapter of the Navajo Nation, Lower Antelope slowly exposes itself to you as a small crack in the rock which grows slightly in width, and dramatically  in depth as you climb down into the slot canyon.

Unlike Upper Antelope Canyon which is an easy walk, Lower Antelope Canyon is a steep and deep trail as the passage plunges deeper into the rock.  The Navajo Nation is kind enough to maintain metal stairs to aid the trek, however on my last visit the stars where covered in mud, silt and debris from a recent storm which further sculpts the rock.   Upper Antelope pulls you eyes up into the colorful light above, however there is no real sense of depth.  Lower Antelope Canyon constantly reminds you how deep you really are beneath the surface.

The stairs inside of lower Antelope Canyon show signs of a recent flood.
The stairs inside of lower Antelope Canyon show signs of a recent flood.

Just like Upper Antelope Canyon, a narrow opening at the top of the canyon only allows a little light the enter the canyon.  This light bounces off the canyon walls, and throughout the day, a light show of glowing rock, shadows and textured water sculpted rock offer a wonderful visuals to the visitors.

The sculpted rock and light offer beauty, texture and scenic photographic opportunities, however this beauty hides a danger.  An August 12, 1997 a group of eleven tourists where killed inside the canyon when a flash flood filled the canyon in seconds.  A sole tour guide survived the tragedy.

As I follow the canyon down towards Lake Powell in the distance, I would constantly find my self touching the smooth canyon rock walls, all the while knowing that a summer monsoon miles aware could end my time on this planet.  However, although always a bit uneasy, it is an amazing place and well worth the trip and the remote risk.