Owens Lake Steamships

Today it is difficult to imagine, but at one time not so long ago, Owens Lake Steamships ferried supplies and silver ore across Owens Lake from the booming silver town of Cerro Gordo, California. Cerro Gordo was a booming silver town located at high elevations in the White Mountains above the tree line. Water and fuel are hauled up the mountain utilizing freight wagons to support the silver mines.

Cerro Gordo overlooking the then full Owens Lake.
Cerro Gordo overlooking the then full Owens Lake.

Owens Lake, nestled in the Owens Valley of California, was once a shimmering gem nestled beneath the towering Sierra Nevada mountains. Spanning over 100 square miles, it was a vital oasis for diverse wildlife and a haven for migratory birds. Its glassy surface reflected the surrounding peaks, creating a picturesque landscape beloved by locals and travelers alike. With its abundant water and fertile shores, it supported Native American communities for centuries. However, as Los Angeles began to grow in the late 19th century, demands for water led to the diversion of the Owens River, gradually desiccating Owens Lake and leaving behind a vast salt flat.

Mortimer Belshaw (1830 - 1899 )
Mortimer Belshaw (1830 – 1899 )

Cerro Gordo was a silver mining town located high in the White Mountains east of Owens Lake. The elevation of the town offered some unique challenges in terms of supplies, such as water and fuel. Infrastructure to support the mines and the community needed to be built by Mortimer Belshaw. These supplies are staged in Keeler, CA and hauled up to the town using teams of wagons and a tramway. It is a natural step to build a ferry system to facilitate the transfer of goods, services and more importantly silver bars produce at Cerro Gordo.

Owens Lake itself faced a significant transformation in the 20th century. The Los Angeles Aqueduct, completed in 1913, diverted water from the Owens River, which fed the lake, to Los Angeles. This diversion caused Owens Lake to dry up, transforming it into a largely dry lakebed with environmental and health issues due to dust storms.

Bessie Brady

1950 Painting by William McKeever of the Bessie Brady is on display at the Eastern California Museum in Independence, CA.  This image probably does not resemble the actual appearance of the vessel.
1950 Painting by William McKeever of the Bessie Brady is on display at the Eastern California Museum in Independence, CA. This image probably does not resemble the actual appearance of the vessel.

The Bessie Brady made its maiden voyage on July 4, 1872. Measuring about 85 feet in length with a 19-foot beam, the vessel could carry up to 100 tons of cargo, significantly reducing the time and cost of transporting ore. The ship’s route ran from the town of Swansea, near the western shore of Owens Lake, to Cartago on the southern shore. From Cartago, the ore was transported to Los Angeles. The steamer was actually so efficient in hauling silver ore to Cartago Landing, near Olancha, Ca, that the bullion began to pile up. The teamsters who hauled the Silver Ore from Olancha to Los Angeles, simply could not keep up with the vessel.

The introduction of the Bessie Brady revolutionized transportation in the Owens Valley. It provided a more reliable and faster means of moving ore from the Cerro Gordo Mines to markets, boosting the local economy. The steamship also transported supplies and passengers, further integrating the remote mining community with the rest of California.

The success of the Bessie Brady was relatively short-lived. By the mid-1870s, the completion of the Carson and Colorado Railroad reduced the need for lake transport. The railroad provided an even more efficient means of moving goods and people, leading to a decline in the use of the steamship.

Despite its decline, the Bessie Brady continued to operate for several years, serving various purposes, including transporting salt from the lake’s evaporative salt works.

NameBessie Brady
Other Names“The Pioneer inland steamer of the Pacific Coast”
Years of OperationJune 27, 1872 – May 11, 1882
Length85 feet
Beam16 feet
Propulsion20 HP Single Cylinder Oscillating Type Steam
10 inch cylinder bore and 10 inch stroke
Propeller54 inches

Molly Stevens

The Molly Stevens was a steamboat built in the late in 1877 and launched on in May of that year by Colonel Sherman Vanderventer Stevens. It was named after Molly Stevens, in honor of his daughter Molly.. The vessel was is smaller than the Bessie Perl, but does boast of more powerful powerplant. A few days after its’ maiden voyage, the steamship is swamped in the heavy wind driven lake waters. She is raised again to the surface with the help of the Bessie Brady.

By 1878, the Molly Stevens is only making the occasional trip across the Lake and spends the majority of her time moored. In 1881, the vessels is hauling from $6,000 in bullion a week, which is produced by nearby mills. Due to lack of hauling efficiency, the Molly Stevens is again moored and eventually scrapped in the spring of 1882.

On May 11th, 1882, during a refitted of the more powerful steam plant from the Molly Stevens to the Bessie Brady a fire breaks. The fire is started spontaneously by a combination of the Oakum, oil, paint and tar. The inferno quickly takes hold and destroys the last of the steamships on Owens Lake.

The Molly Stevens and Bessie Brady played a crucial role in the economic development of the Owens Valley. By transporting ore efficiently across Owens Lake, these vessels helped boost the mining industry, which was the backbone of the local economy. The presence of the two steamships reduced the time and cost associated with overland transport, making mining operations more profitable.

Molly Stevens Characteristics

NameMolly Stevens
Years of operation1877 – 1882

The Lost Treasure of the Bessie Brady

One other incident, which is not documented, is the alleged existence of a lost treasure in Owens Lake. Allegedly, a wagon load of bullion hauled by the Bessie Brady is swept overboard during a high wind storm. The tale is told that the heavy bullion-filled wagon was not correctly chained to the deck and simply swept over the side.

The story could be from a combination of events, such as the swamping and sinking of the Molly Stevens.

Seemingly a rumor, the Lost Treasure of the Bessie Brady seems to always originate from a person who allegedly heard from someone who knew the captain.

References

Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley

Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley written by Brent Underwood
Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley written by Brent Underwood

The siren song of Cerro Gordo, a desolate ghost town perched high above Death Valley, has seduced thousands since the 1800s, but few fell harder for it than Brent Underwood, who moved there in March of 2020, only to be immediately snowed in and trapped for weeks.

It had once been the largest silver mine in California. Over $500 million worth of ore was pulled from the miles of tunnels below the town. Butch Cassidy, Mark Twain, and other infamous characters of the American West were rumored to have stayed there. Newspapers reported a murder a week. But that was over 150 years ago.

Underwood bet his life savings—and his life—on this majestic, hardscrabble town that had broken its fair share of ambitious men and women. What followed were fires, floods, earthquakes, and perhaps strangest, fame. Ghost Town Living tells the story of a man against the elements, a forgotten historic place against the modern world, and a dream against all odds—one that has captured millions of followers around the world.

He came looking for a challenge different from the traditional 9-5 job but discovered something much more fulfilling—an undertaking that would call on all of himself and push him beyond what he knew he was capable of. In fact, to bring this abandoned town back to life, Brent had to learn a wealth of new self-sufficiency and problem-solving skills from many generous mentors.

Ghost Town Living is a thrilling read, but it’s also a call to action—to question our too-practical lives and instead seek adventure, build something original, redefine work, and embrace the unknown. It shows what it means to dedicate your life to something, to take a mighty swing at a crazy idea and, like the cardsharps who once haunted Cerro Gordo, go all in.

About the Author

Brent Underwood is the owner of Cerro Gordo, an original boomtown silver mine, established in 1865. He is also the creator of “GhostTownLiving” where he chronicles his adventures on YouTube. Brent currently lives on the mountain above Death Valley with no running water, seven cats, six goats, and at least one ghost.

Book Summary

TitleDeath Valley Gold Rush (Images of Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley
AuthorBrent Underwood
PublisherHarmony Publishing
Pages228 Pages

The Curse of the Dutchman’s Gold by Helen Corbin

The Curse of the Dutchman's Gold by Helen Corbin
The Curse of the Dutchman’s Gold by Helen Corbin

Helen Corbin’s The Curse of the Dutchman’s Gold is the first book I have read on Jacob Watlz’s mine. The book does an excellent job of documenting the history of the most enduring legends of the American Southwest: the tale of the Lost Dutchman’s Mine. Nestled in the rugged Superstition Mountains of Arizona, the story of this elusive treasure has captivated adventurers, historians, and treasure hunters for over a century. Corbin’s book offers a comprehensive exploration of the legend, blending historical research, folklore, and personal accounts to create a rich narrative that is both informative and enthralling.

Engaging Narrative and Rich Historical Context

Corbin excels in setting the stage, providing a detailed historical context that enriches the reader’s understanding of the legend. She meticulously traces the origins of the Lost Dutchman’s Mine, starting with the enigmatic figure of Jacob Waltz, the “Dutchman” himself. Through Corbin’s vivid storytelling, Waltz comes to life as a complex character, shrouded in mystery and intrigue. The book doesn’t merely recount the legend; it delves into the socio-economic backdrop of the time, exploring the broader context of mining booms and the cultural tapestry of the American West.

Meticulous Research and Diverse Perspectives

One of the book’s strengths is its thorough research. Corbin has sifted through an array of sources, from historical documents and old maps to interviews with contemporary treasure hunters. This diligent research is evident in the depth and breadth of information presented. Corbin also presents various theories about the mine’s location and the curse supposedly protecting it, offering multiple perspectives that allow readers to form their own opinions. The inclusion of personal anecdotes and firsthand accounts adds a layer of authenticity and immediacy to the narrative.

Captivating and Atmospheric Descriptions

The author’s descriptive prowess shines as she brings the Superstition Mountains to life. Her descriptions of the harsh yet beautiful landscape create a vivid backdrop for the story, immersing the reader in the treacherous and alluring terrain where the legend unfolds. Corbin’s ability to convey the atmosphere of the mountains—their eerie stillness, the rugged beauty, and the palpable sense of mystery—enhances the overall reading experience.

Corbin strikes a balance between entertaining storytelling and scholarly analysis. While she doesn’t shy away from the more fantastical elements of the legend, she also provides a critical examination of the myths surrounding the Lost Dutchman’s Mine. This balanced approach allows readers to enjoy the story as a captivating legend while appreciating the rigorous historical inquiry that underpins the narrative.

The Curse of the Dutchman’s Gold is a compelling read that will appeal to history enthusiasts, treasure hunters, and anyone fascinated by the mysteries of the American West. Helen Corbin’s ability to weave together historical facts, folklore, and personal stories results in a book that is as informative as it is engaging. By the end of the journey, readers will find themselves not only more knowledgeable about the legend of the Lost Dutchman’s Mine but also deeply immersed in the enigmatic allure of the Superstition Mountains.

Whether you’re a skeptic or a believer in the legendary treasure, The Curse of the Dutchman’s Gold offers a captivating exploration of one of America’s most intriguing mysteries.

Book Summary

TitleThe Curse of the Dutchman’s Gold by Helen Corbin
AuthorHelen Corbin
PublisherFox West Publisher
Pages237 Pages

Field Guide to the Birds of North America

Field Guide to the Birds of North America - Third Edition
Field Guide to the Birds of North America – Third Edition

The “Field Guide to the Birds of North America” was first introduced to me by my brother, who is a Field Biologist for San Bernardino County. At the time, the two of us were camping along the 395 Highway on the Eastern Sierra, He brought his copy in the hopes of seeing some new bird species. After a few days of camping, we stopped at the visitors center at Mono Lake where I purchased by copy. Since then, this book is taken on every trip I take out of the city.

My copy of the third edition features over 800 species of birds all organized by family. The description for each bird contains an illustration by sex, descriptions and distribution map along with many variations and subspecies.

The 7th edition currently contains a total of 1,023 species, which is roughly 20% more than my much older copy. The latest version contains revisions in taxonomy revised to reflect the radical new American Ornithological Society taxonomy established in 2016. The update of taxonomy is the reason for the additions, so at some point I will break down to purchase the new version.

Whenever I go on a trip, I pull out the maps that I will need to explore the area. I also look for a bird watching checklist which typically contain a list of bird known to be in the area. These lists will make it dramatically easier narrow down birds you are looking for, and help in your identification.

Bird Watching

People engage in birdwatching for a multitude of reasons, each deeply personal and rewarding I personally enjoy listening to the birds while camping:

  1. Appreciation of Nature: Birdwatching allows people to connect with the natural world, fostering a deeper appreciation for the beauty and diversity of birds and their habitats.
  2. Relaxation and Stress Relief: Spending time in nature has been shown to reduce stress and promote relaxation. Birdwatching provides an opportunity to escape the hustle and bustle of daily life and immerse oneself in the peacefulness of natural surroundings.
  3. Physical Activity: Birdwatching often involves walking or hiking, providing a gentle form of exercise that can improve cardiovascular health and overall well-being.
  4. Mental Stimulation: Identifying birds and learning about their behaviors, habitats, and calls can be mentally stimulating and intellectually rewarding.
  5. Community and Social Connection: Birdwatching can be a social activity, providing opportunities to connect with like-minded individuals who share a passion for birds and the environment.
  6. Conservation Awareness: Birdwatching can foster a sense of environmental stewardship by raising awareness about the importance of preserving habitats and protecting bird species and their ecosystems.
  7. Adventure and Exploration: Birdwatching often takes enthusiasts to new and exciting locations, encouraging exploration and a sense of adventure.
  8. Photography and Artistic Expression: Many birdwatchers enjoy capturing images of birds through photography or expressing their observations through various forms of artistic expression, such as drawing or painting.

Overall, birdwatching offers a myriad of benefits that cater to both physical and mental well-being while fostering a deeper connection to the natural world.

Book Summary

NameField Guide to the Birds of North America
AuthorJonathon Alderfer
PublisherNational Geographic
Edition7th Edition
Pages592 Pages

Resources

Cerro Gordo (Images of America)

Cerro Gordo (Images of America) written by Cecile Page Vargo, Roger W. Vargo
Cerro Gordo (Images of America) written by Cecile Page Vargo, Roger W. Vargo

High in the Inyo Mountains, between Owens Valley and Death Valley National Park, lies the ghost town of Cerro Gordo. Discovered in 1865, this silver town boomed to a population of 3,000 people in the hands of savvy entrepreneurs during the 1870s. As the silver played out and the town faded, a few hung on to the dream. By the early 1900s, Louis D. Gordon wandered up the Yellow Grade Road where freight wagons once traversed with silver and supplies and took a closer look at the zinc ore that had been tossed aside by early miners. The Fat Hill lived again, primarily as a small company town. By the last quarter of the 20th century, Jody Stewart and Mike Patterson found themselves owners of the rough and tumble camp that helped Los Angeles turn into a thriving metropolis because of silver and commercial trade. Cerro Gordo found new life, second to Bodie, as California’s best-preserved ghost town.

About the Author

Roger W. Vargo and Cecile Page Vargo are a husband-wife historian team who photograph, write about, and guide tours to historic areas. They have volunteered and worked in both Bodie and Cerro Gordo. Histories and images have been collected from public, personal, and private archives.

Book Summary

TitleCerro Gordo (Images of America)
AuthorCecile Page Vargo, Roger W. Vargo
PublisherArcadia Publishing
Pages130 Pages