Category: Trails

Shafer Trail

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An old cattle trail, the Shafer trail which will test your nerve, as you descend down into the canyons of Canyonlands National Park.  This trail by any sense of 4×4 measure is simple.  It is for more a challenge of nerve over machine.  

Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun

This is a short, steep and windy trail from the top of Canyonlands National park down towards the White Rim Trail and beyond.  There is no technical challenge on this road at all, but it is the type of trail that will make even the most hardcore traveler smile. There are tight switchbacks as you quickly join up with the Colorado River. Steep cliff faces, extreme drops and amazing views are your reward.  Enjoy, and be sure to take your time.

The trail starts near the visitors center of Canyonlands National monument, winds down through the Shafer switchbacks. Once you reach the bottom, you can go left and follow the Colorado River into highway 279 into Moab. A right turn will take you to the White Rim Trail.  When you get near the potash plant, you may be rerouted onto Potash Road. Simply follow it around the plant to rejoin the Shafer Trail.

Shafer Trail map

Valley of the Gods

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Valley of the Gods is a beautiful sandstone valley and located in the South East corner of Utah near Mexican Hat. alley of the Gods is the lesser known northern extension of Monument Valley and is frequently confused with Monument Valley. The valley is carved out from a layer of eroded sandstone, and features two large table top mesa with are long and narrow in shape. These mesas appear like ship sails again a sea of clear blue skies.  

The seventeen mile trail loops north from highway 163 and then travels back the the south west to connect to highway 261 and recommended for high clearance vehicles.

Valley of the Gods, Utah
Large format photograph take in Valley of the Gods, Utah provided by James L Rathbun

Down towards to the of the valley, two beautiful spires reminded me of sailing ships in the desert. The road winds between them to provide for an amazing drive.

Unlike Monument Valley which is controlled by the Navajo Nation, the valley is managed by the Bureau of Land Management and does not contain any services or campgrounds, or tribal restrictions. There are several small camping spots on the loop and when I visited in October the number of people seems to be quite low.

Valley of the Gods trail map

White Rim Trail

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The White Rim Trail is Canyonlands National Park is a 100 mile back country 4×4 trail that follows an strata of white lime stone along the edge of Island in the Sky mesa Located in Canyonlands National Park, Utah.  Back country permits are required for this trail, and although it can easily be taken in one day, the wise traveler takes their time and runs the route in several days and nights.  There are several camp grounds offering star gazing opportunities, and the grand vistas and long light in the early morning and late afternoon will inspire the Ansel Adams within you.

Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun

The trailhead is reached by leaving the Islands in the Sky Mesa, using the steep and twisty Shafer Trail.  The Shafer Trail is a back county route that takes you back to Moab, UT and a fun way out at the end of your trip.  The Shafer trail drops quickly and about 700 feet using 6 switch backs.  The Shafer Trail and White Rim Trail are well maintained and not very narrow, but the elevation and views give the feeling the route is dangerous.

Sunset along the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands NP, Utah Photograph by James L Rathbun
Sunset along the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands NP, Utah Photograph by James L Rathbun

Once down on the bottom, the well marked Shafer Trail continues on, while the White Rim Trail branches right and to the south.  All along the backcountry dirt road there are numerous spur trails, vistas, and points of interest give you much to explore including Lathrop Canyon, Musselman Arch, Washer Woman Arch and the Monster Tower.  The entire route is easy to follow, well maintained, well traveled and pure joy to run.

The trail winds along a layer of erroded light colored sandstone called the White Rim which undulates around several smaller side canyons which lead down the the Colorado River.  

Available Campsites

There are several small primitive campsites throughout the route.

  • Shafer – Mile 7 – 1 site
  • Airport – Mile 19 – 4 sites
  • Gooseberry – Mile 30 – 2 sites
  • White Crack – Mile 39 – 1 site
  • Murphy Hogback – Mile 45 – 3 sites
  • Candlestick – Mile 55 – 1 sites
  • Potato Bottom – Mile 66 – 3 sites
  • Hardscrabble Bottom – Mile 70 – 2 sites
  • Labyrinth – Mile 72 – 2 sites
  • Taylor – Mile 77 – 1 site

Trail Map

Achy-Breaky

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Achy-Breaky is a very difficult, trail which circumnavigates Watkins Peak in San Bernardino County, California. This trail is one of many on the Stoddard Wells OHV.  The trail requires a well built 4×4 and a GPS to even stay on the trail which a network of difficult to navigate trails.

California Desert Tortoise emerging from a hiding place just off of Achy-Breaky Trail
California Desert Tortoise emerging from a hiding place just off of Achy-Breaky Trail

Located south of Barstow, in the Stoddard Wells OHV Area. The trail is quite a popular destination for people who are looking to test their 4×4, and not suitable for stock vehicles. Skid plates, differential lockers, high ground clearance and a capable truck are required to navigate the desert terrain with numerous steep, rocky climbs. Tire damage is a real possibility from the large, sharp rocks. Although technically challenging, the trail does not offer much in the scenery department, unless you hike up towards to top of the peak.

The trail is best run from November to March each year due to the high heat of the Mohave Desert. More information on Stoddard Wells OHV Area can be found at the Barstow Field office of the Bureau of Land Management at 760-252-6000.

Arcy-Breaky Trail Map

References

White Mountain Road

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Locathed in Inyo County, the White Mountain Road is a high altitude road that travels north from Highway 168 out of Big Pine and into the Bristle Cone Pine Forest of the White Mountains.  The road is partial paved as far as the Schulman Grove visitors center and beyond the road is graded dirt.

Bristle Cone grove located high in the White Mountains.
Bristle Cone grove located high in the White Mountains.

As the White Mountain roads winds north, it follows the ridge line of the White Mountains climbing higher in elevation and offers up amazing vistas of Owens Valley to the west.

A Bristlecone Pine (not the oldest) located in the White Mountains, CA
A Bristlecone Pine (not the oldest) located in the White Mountains, CA

The bristlecone pine tree is found in this mountain range, and is the oldest living thing on the planet and are known to live 5,000 years.  The bristlecone pine trees live in groves in arid sub alpine mountain tops in the western United States, including the White Mountains in California and around Mount Charleston just north of Las Vegas.  The harsh environment, high elevations over 12,000 above sea level, dry conditions, high winds twist a bend the trees and they slowly grow across the millennium.

Bristlecone pine wood contorted with age and environment.
Bristlecone pine wood contorted with age and environment.

The very high elevation takes its toll on car and driver a like. While climbing the route, the power of the jeep was quite noticeable. I did not notice the elevation until I got out for a bit of a hike among the Bristle Cones. Once must be careful to catch their breathe, and the suns intensity was rather noticable.

Over 11000 feet above sea level
Over 11000 feet above sea level

White Mountain Road Map