Big Bear, CA
I quiet mountain community full of back country adventure.
Spring Canyon Bottom Road
Spring Canyon Bottom Road is a rugged, scenic off-road trail in the Island in the Sky District of Canyonlands National Park, Utah, offering a thrilling descent into the park’s dramatic backcountry. This 12.2-mile one-way route (24.4 miles round-trip) connects Dubinky Well Road, just outside the park, to the Green River and the Hey Joe Canyon trailhead, descending via steep switchbacks into Spring Canyon. Best suited for high-clearance 4WD vehicles and experienced mountain bikers, hiking is possible but rare due to the trail’s length, exposure, and technical terrain. The road traverses a stark desert landscape of sandstone cliffs, sandy washes, and open flats, with sweeping views of the Green River, distant La Sal Mountains, and the canyon’s sheer walls. Rated as easy to moderate (technical rating 2) for 4WD vehicles and bikes when conditions are dry, the trail features tight switchbacks, rocky sections, and potential rockslides, with an elevation drop of about 1,500 feet from 5,500 to 4,000 feet. The journey takes approximately 1-2 hours by vehicle or 3-5 hours by bike, with hiking times varying significantly.
The trail begins at an unmarked junction off Dubinky Well Road, accessed from Highway 313, about 11 miles north of Moab and 1.5 miles past a rest area (38.6650, -109.7800). It enters Canyonlands National Park after 1.5 miles, where park rules and a $30 vehicle entry fee apply (payable at the Island in the Sky Visitor Center or online at recreation.gov). Key features include the dramatic switchbacks descending into Spring Canyon, primitive campsites along the canyon bottom, and access to the Green River and Hey Joe Canyon. Spring and fall are ideal for travel, as summer heat exceeds 100°F, and winter or post-rain conditions increase risks of rockslides and muddy washes. Flash flooding is a concern, and portable toilets are required for camping due to environmental regulations.
Trail Details
- Length: 12.2 miles one-way (24.4 miles round-trip).
- Difficulty: Easy to moderate for 4WD vehicles and mountain bikes (technical rating 2); strenuous for hikers due to distance, exposure, and uneven terrain.
- Elevation Change: Approximately 1,500 feet descent; altitude ranges from 5,500 to 4,000 feet.
- Terrain: Dirt, gravel, sandy washes, slickrock, and tight switchbacks with rocky sections. High-clearance 4WD required; OHVs, ATVs, and UTVs are prohibited in the park.
- Access: Start at the junction with Dubinky Well Road (38.6650, -109.7800), reached via Highway 313. A park entry fee ($30 per vehicle) is required, and timed entry reservations may apply April 1–October 31, 2025, from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m.
- Features: Scenic switchbacks, views of Spring Canyon and Green River, primitive campsites (backcountry permit required), and access to Hey Joe Canyon trailhead. No dinosaur tracks are noted on this route.
- Challenges: Tight switchbacks requiring multi-point turns for larger vehicles (e.g., full-size trucks), deep sand, and potential rockslides after rain. No shade, limited cell coverage, and flash flooding risks in washes. Pets are not allowed off roads, and motorcycles must be street-legal.
- Amenities: No facilities on the trail. Closest amenities are at the Island in the Sky Visitor Center (water March–October, restrooms) or Willow Flat Campground (vault toilets). Bring ample water, sunscreen, and a detailed map (e.g., National Geographic’s Trails Illustrated Canyonlands).
Hiking and Biking Notes
Hiking Spring Canyon Bottom Road is uncommon due to its 24.4-mile round-trip length, lack of shade, and technical terrain, making it a strenuous endeavor best suited for cooler months (March–May or September–November). The route follows the road, with firm footing on dirt and slickrock but no dedicated trail, and hikers must navigate sandy washes and rocky sections. Mountain biking is more popular, offering a challenging ride through varied terrain, though deep sand and steep switchbacks may require dismounting. Cyclists must stay on designated roads to protect the fragile desert ecosystem, including cryptobiotic soil, and yield to vehicles. The trail’s highlight is the descent through the switchbacks, offering breathtaking views of the canyon’s sheer walls and the Green River. Primitive campsites along the canyon bottom require a backcountry permit and portable toilet. Hikers and bikers should carry ample water, navigation tools (GPS or map), and sun protection, as trail markers are minimal, and the remote landscape can be disorienting.
Trail Map
History and Significance
Spring Canyon Bottom Road’s history is tied to the geologic and cultural evolution of Canyonlands National Park, established in 1964 to preserve the region’s dramatic landscape carved by the Green and Colorado rivers. The road’s path through Spring Canyon showcases the Entrada Sandstone, formed 165 million years ago from Jurassic dune fields, and the underlying Paradox Formation, a 300-million-year-old salt bed that caused fracturing and collapse, shaping the canyon’s steep walls and fins. This geologic legacy, driven by uplift and erosion, makes the road a vital access route to the park’s backcountry, offering a glimpse into its ancient past.
Historically, the region around Spring Canyon was inhabited by the Fremont and Ancestral Puebloan peoples until about 700 years ago, with rock art and ruins in nearby areas like the Needles District attesting to their presence. Spanish missionaries encountered Ute and Paiute tribes in 1775, and Mormon settlers briefly established the Elk Mountain Mission in Moab in 1855, abandoning it due to harsh conditions. Spring Canyon Bottom Road likely originated as a ranching or exploration route in the late 19th or early 20th century, used by prospectors and cattlemen navigating the rugged terrain. The area saw uranium prospecting in the 1950s, contributing to the park’s creation, as figures like Bates Wilson, the first superintendent, advocated for its protection after exploring the region’s canyons.
The road’s significance lies in its role as a remote access route to the Green River and Hey Joe Canyon, offering solitude and adventure in a less-visited part of the Island in the Sky District. Its switchbacks and canyon-bottom campsites reflect the park’s “Wild West” character, as described by author Edward Abbey, who called Canyonlands “the most weird, wonderful, magical place on earth.” The road’s proximity to the Green River connects it to the legacy of John Wesley Powell, whose 1869 expedition down the Green and Colorado rivers helped map the region. Today, the National Park Service manages the road to balance recreation with preservation, enforcing strict regulations to protect the delicate desert ecosystem, including requirements for portable toilets and permits for camping. Spring Canyon Bottom Road remains a cherished route for off-roaders and cyclists seeking an immersive experience in Canyonlands’ untamed beauty.
Willow Springs Road
Willow Springs Road offers a rugged, scenic route into the western edge of Arches National Park, providing a quieter, less-traveled alternative to the park’s main entrance. Stretching approximately 7.9 miles from Highway 191 to its terminus at Balanced Rock on the park’s paved road, this dirt and slickrock trail is a backdoor adventure best suited for high-clearance 4WD vehicles, mountain bikes, or determined hikers. The trail winds through a starkly beautiful desert landscape, flanked by sandstone fins, scattered boulders, and distant views of iconic formations like the Windows Section and La Sal Mountains.
Highlights include dinosaur tracks preserved in the rock, expansive vistas of the park’s backcountry, and a sense of solitude rare in this popular park. The trail is rated as easy to moderate for 4WD vehicles and bikes, with challenges like sandy washes, small rock ledges, and occasional washboard sections. Hikers face a longer, exposed journey, with no shade and minimal elevation gain (approximately 500 feet). The trail takes about 30-45 minutes by vehicle or 2-3 hours by bike, with hiking times varying based on pace and stops.
Starting from Highway 191, about 11.5 miles north of Moab (near milepost 138.6), the trailhead is marked by a sign for Willow Springs Road. The first 3.8 miles traverse UtahRaptor State Park (formerly BLM land), passing dispersed camping areas and the Klonzo Trail System, popular for mountain biking. A large sign marks the Arches National Park boundary, where park rules apply, including a required entrance fee (payable at the main entrance or online at recreation.gov). From here, the road narrows, becoming rougher with sandy and rocky sections, and continues 4 miles to Balanced Rock. A notable stop at 3.5 miles from Highway 191 is the dinosaur track site, where well-marked theropod (raptor-like) and sauropod (brontosaurus-like) footprints, dating back 165 million years, are preserved in the Entrada Sandstone. The trail ends at a paved junction, offering access to park highlights like the Windows Section and Double Arch.
Trail Details
- Length: 7.9 miles one-way (15.8 miles round-trip if returning to Highway 191).
- Difficulty: Easy to moderate for 4WD vehicles and mountain bikes; moderate for hikers due to distance and exposure.
- Elevation Gain: Approximately 500 feet, with gentle undulations.
- Terrain: Dirt, gravel, slickrock, sandy washes, small rock ledges, and washboard sections. High-clearance 4WD required beyond the park boundary; 2WD vehicles can manage the first 3.8 miles to the boundary with caution.
- Access: From Highway 191, turn east onto Willow Springs Road (38.696712, -109.698675). No pay booth at this entrance; park fees apply upon exiting or via online purchase. Timed entry reservations are required April 1–October 31, 2025.
- Features: Dinosaur tracks at 3.5 miles, scenic views of sandstone formations, access to Balanced Rock, and a quiet alternative to the main park entrance.
- Challenges: Deep sand and rocky sections require careful navigation for vehicles; hikers face long exposure with no shade. Flash flooding is possible in washes after heavy rain. OHVs and ATVs are prohibited in the park.
- Amenities: Porta-potties and a vault toilet near the trailhead in UtahRaptor State Park; picnic table and outhouses near Balanced Rock. No water is available, so bring plenty.
Trail Map
Hiking and Biking Notes
For hikers, the full 7.9-mile one-way trek to Balanced Rock is a long, exposed journey best undertaken in cooler months (March–November preferred). The trail follows the road, offering firm footing on dirt and slickrock but no dedicated path. Mountain bikers find the route rewarding for its mix of hard-packed rock and sandy challenges, with stunning views of the park’s formations. Bikers should expect to dismount in deep sand sections and yield to vehicles. Both hikers and bikers should carry ample water, sunscreen, and navigation tools, as cell coverage is spotty near the park boundary. The dinosaur tracks are a must-see, marked by an interpretive sign and a short walk on slickrock.
History and Significance
Willow Springs Road has long served as a lesser-known gateway to Arches National Park, historically used by locals and adventurers seeking to bypass the main entrance’s crowds and toll booth. Its significance lies in its access to the park’s quieter western backcountry, offering a raw, unfiltered experience of the desert landscape. The road’s path through what is now UtahRaptor State Park (established in 2021) connects to a region rich in geologic and paleontological history. The dinosaur tracks, dating to the Jurassic period, highlight the area’s ancient past, when the region was a muddy floodplain roamed by theropods and sauropods. These well-preserved footprints, discovered along the road, are a testament to the area’s significance as a paleontological treasure trove.
Historically, the road was part of a broader network used by ranchers and early explorers, with remnants like an old shed and corral near Willow Springs Canyon hinting at past human activity. The area around Willow Springs was also a corridor for Native American migration routes, with nearby rock art sites, such as petroglyphs and pictographs, suggesting cultural significance for the Anasazi and other Indigenous groups. The road’s proximity to the Klonzo Trail System and its former status as BLM land made it a hub for dispersed camping until recent changes introduced fees and regulations under UtahRaptor State Park management. Its role as a “secret entrance” has made it a favorite among off-roaders and cyclists, though park regulations now emphasize responsible use to protect the fragile desert ecosystem, including cryptobiotic soil.
Willow Springs Road remains a unique portal to Arches, blending adventure, solitude, and a glimpse into the deep geologic and cultural history of the region, making it a cherished route for those seeking an unconventional park experience.
Wonder Nevada – Churchill County Ghost Town
Wonder, Nevada, now a ghost town in Churchill County, was a short-lived but significant mining community during the early 20th-century silver and gold rush. Located 39 miles east of Fallon, Wonder thrived from 1906 to 1919, driven by rich mineral discoveries. This report details the town’s founding, growth, economic role, and decline, based on historical records.
Founding and Early Growth
Wonder was established in May 1906 after prospectors from Fairview discovered high-grade quartz veins north of Chalk Mountain. Thomas J. Stroud located the Lost Claim on March 15, 1906, followed by the Jack Pot and Queen claims, triggering a mining rush. By June, the Wonder Mining District was formed, with over 1,000 claims staked. The town grew quickly, boasting stores, saloons, assay offices, and a stage line to Fairview and Fallon by mid-1906. The Wonder Mining News began publication in August 1906, and a post office opened in September 1909. Infrastructure included hotels, boarding houses, restaurants, a freight depot, an artificial ice plant, and a swimming pool fed by Bench Creek.
Mining and Economic Significance
The Nevada Wonder Mining Company, incorporated on September 19, 1906, by Murray Scott, William Mays, and others, dominated the district. Backed by eastern investors, the company built a 100-ton mill in 1911, upgraded to a 200-ton cyanide mill in 1913 to address high milling costs due to the lack of a railroad. Wonder’s low-sulfidation epithermal deposits, rich in quartz, adularia, acanthite, gold, and silver halides, yielded approximately $6 million in silver, gold, copper, and zinc from 1906 to 1919. The Nevada Wonder Mining Company alone generated $1,549,002 in revenue by its closure in December 1919.
Community Life
At its peak, Wonder supported about 200 residents, primarily men, with a school established in 1907. Bench Creek provided 150,000 gallons of water daily, and by 1910, a record-breaking electric transmission line from Bishop, California, powered the town. Social amenities like saloons and the swimming pool enhanced life in the desert. Eva Adams, born in Wonder in 1908, later became a notable figure as Director of the U.S. Mint under Presidents Kennedy and Johnson.
Decline and Legacy
By 1919, Wonder’s mineral veins were exhausted, leading to the Nevada Wonder Mining Company’s closure. The post office shut down in August 1920, and many buildings were relocated to other mining camps. A brief revival in the 1930s failed, and Executive Order L-208 halted operations in 1942. The mill was dismantled in 1924, and the electric line was removed. Today, Wonder’s remnants—mill foundations and scattered wooden structures—are accessible via a dirt road off Dixie Valley Road from US 50 East.
Conclusion
Wonder, Nevada, exemplifies the rise and fall of Western mining towns. Its brief prosperity from 1906 to 1919, driven by the Nevada Wonder Mining Company, contributed significantly to Churchill County’s economy. The town’s decline reflects the transient nature of mining booms, leaving behind a legacy of historical markers and figures like Eva Adams, preserving Wonder’s place in Nevada’s history.
Despite heavy investment and a flurry of activity, mining operations ceased in 1919 and by August of 1920, the post office closed. Small lease operations did continue for a short while.
Town Summary
| Town | Wonder |
| Location | Churhhill County, Nevada |
| GNIS | 845018 |
| Latitude, Longitude | 39.439444, -118.053056 |
| Elevation | 5853 feet |
| Population | <1000 |
| Post Office | September 1909 – August 1920 |
| Newspaper | The Wonder Mining News Jan 4, 1908 – Nov 18, 1912 |
Wonder Trail Map
References
Tuscarora Nevada
Tuscarora, Nevada, is a small unincorporated community in Elko County, nestled at the base of Mount Blitzen on the eastern slope of the Tuscarora Mountains, approximately 50 miles northwest of Elko. Once a bustling mining town with a population exceeding 3,000, it is now a near-ghost town with about 120 residents, known for its historical significance and the internationally renowned Tuscarora Pottery School. The town’s history is a vivid tale of gold and silver booms, cultural diversity, and resilience, shaped by prospectors, Chinese laborers, and modern-day artists.
Origins and Gold Discovery (1867–1871)
Tuscarora’s story began in 1867 when a Shoshone Indian revealed the presence of gold to a trader along the Humboldt River. The trader shared this information with brothers John and Steven Beard, who, along with six other prospectors from Austin, Nevada, ventured to the west side of Independence Valley. By July 1867, they organized a mining district and named it Tuscarora after the USS Tuscarora, a Union warship on which one miner, Charles M. Benson, had served during the Civil War. The name also reflects the Tuscarora people, an Iroquoian Native American tribe originally from North Carolina.
The initial camp formed on McCann Creek, about two miles southwest of the present townsite, where placer mining yielded approximately $12 per miner per day. As news spread, nearly 300 miners rushed from Austin, prompting the construction of a four-room adobe fort for protection against potential Native American raids. In 1868, a four-stamp mill was relocated from Austin, but it proved inefficient. By 1869, the completion of the Central Pacific Railroad left many Chinese laborers unemployed, and over 100 of them arrived in Tuscarora, taking over abandoned placer claims on Beard Hill. By 1870, the census recorded 105 Chinese residents compared to 15 whites, highlighting the significant Chinese presence.
Silver Boom and Town Development (1871–1884)
In 1871, W.O. Weed discovered rich silver lodes on the east side of Mount Blitzen, two miles northeast of the Beard claims, shifting the focus from gold to silver. These discoveries, including the Mount Blitzen silver veins, led to the platting of the current Tuscarora townsite below the new finds. The original McCann Creek site became known as “Old Town,” primarily worked by Chinese miners, while Euro-American miners developed the new silver mines. The Tuscarora Mining District boomed between 1872 and 1884, producing an estimated $10 million to $40 million in silver and gold.
By 1877, Tuscarora’s population swelled to 3,000–4,000, including several hundred Chinese residents. The town boasted a vibrant infrastructure with saloons, restaurants, general stores, a post office (established in 1871), two newspapers (the Tuscarora Times and Review, which merged into the Times-Review in 1878), Methodist and Catholic churches, a public school, and fraternal lodges like the Masons and Odd Fellows. Six mills with 80 stamps processed ore from major mines such as the Grand Prize, Navajo, Independence, and Argenta. The Grand Prize alone yielded over $1.39 million in its first year.
The Chinese community, concentrated in “Chinatown” along McCann Creek, operated placer mines, sold goods like tea and silks, and ran opium dens, gambling houses, and a richly decorated joss house. Chinese laborers also constructed two ditches to bring water from Six Mile Canyon and upper McCann Creek, ensuring a reliable water supply. The Tuscarora Water Company, formed in 1877, further improved water access, reducing fire risks. Toll roads connected Tuscarora to railheads in Elko, Carlin, Battle Mountain, and Winnemucca, with over 200 oxen hauling freight wagons. The 52-mile route to Elko was bustling with stagecoaches and freight, costing 2–3 cents per pound.
At its peak, Tuscarora was a cultural hub with Plunkett’s Hall hosting dances, plays, and operas on a tilting floor that could transform into an amphitheater. Social events included Fourth of July celebrations with shooting matches, baseball games, and parades led by the Tuscarora Guard. The town had progressive elements, including a polytechnic institute, skating rinks, a ballet school, and an elocution teacher. However, violence was common, with Cornish miners (“Cousin Jacks”) known for knife fights and claim-jumping disputes, such as the 1908 fatal shooting of Edward Fannoff by Joseph McGowan over a mining claim.
Decline and Bust (1885–1917)
The boom began to fade in the early 1880s as silver production declined. By 1881, Grand Prize stock plummeted from $940 to 5 cents per share. Production fell below $50,000 annually by 1895, and many mines, including the Young America, closed in the early 1890s. The 1880 census recorded 1,400 Americans in Tuscarora, with ten mines and three mills still operating, but new discoveries elsewhere drew miners away. By 1908, the Tuscarora News suspended publication as residents left for a strike at Gold Circle. In 1917, most mining equipment was sold for scrap, marking the end of major operations.
Revival Attempts and Modern Era (1987–Present)
Tuscarora remained dormant until 1987, when Fischer-Watt and Horizon reopened the Dexter Mine using open-pit methods. This operation, located south of town, threatened Tuscarora’s historic structures, but resident resistance and the mine’s unprofitability halted it by the early 1990s. Total production from 1867 to 1990 included over 500,000 ounces of gold and 7,632,000 ounces of silver.
In 1966, Dennis and Julie Parks moved to Tuscarora, establishing the Tuscarora Pottery School in a historic two-story hotel. The school, now led by Ben Parks, gained international fame, offering summer workshops that attract artists worldwide. The Friends of Tuscarora and Independence Valley, formed in the 1990s, restored the Tuscarora Society Hall, completed in 2013, as a community center and historical exhibit.
Today, Tuscarora has about 120 residents, a post office, a bar and grill, two schools, and a library branch. Visitors can explore picturesque ruins, the historic cemetery, and mine remnants, though caution is advised. The town’s high desert setting, surrounded by sagebrush, aspen, and public lands, offers hiking, biking, and a swimming hole. Tuscarora’s resilience is evident in its survival through busts, modern mining threats, and environmental challenges like Mormon cricket invasions.
Legacy
Tuscarora’s history reflects the boom-and-bust cycle of Nevada’s mining towns, enriched by its diverse population and cultural contributions. From its Shoshone origins to its silver-fueled heyday and artistic revival, Tuscarora remains a testament to the enduring spirit of the American West. Its cemetery, with wooden markers and restored headstones, and the Pottery School stand as reminders of a town that, as locals say, “never died.”
Nevada State Historic Marker No 48
Nevada State Historical Markers identify significant places of interest in Nevada’s history. The Nevada State Legislature started the program in 1967 to bring the state’s heritage to the public’s attention with on-site markers. These roadside markers bring attention to the places, people, and events that make up Nevada’s heritage. They are as diverse as the counties they are located within and range from the typical mining boom and bust town to the largest and most accessible petroglyph sites in Northern Nevada Budget cuts to the program caused the program to become dormant in 2009. Many of the markers are lost or damaged.
Most of the markers across the state are large blue metal markers. However, there are a variety of other marker styles out there. For this guide they have been simplified into a few categories (blue, blue small, concrete, and stone). Sometimes, the markers are on buildings, fences, or metal stands.
Tuscarora
This colorful historic camp originated with an 1867 discovery of placer gold by John and Steve Beard. In 1871, W.O. Weed discovered the rich Mount Blitzen silver lodes, two miles northeast of the Beard claims. These and other mines made up the Tuscarora Mining District, which experienced its boom between 1872 and 1884 and ultimately produced between $10 million and $40 million.
At its peak, Tuscarora boasted a population of over 3,000, which included several hundred Chinese. The Chinese mostly conducted placer mining at the Beard discovery site, later called Old Town while the main camp developed at the present location of Tuscarora, platted in 1871. Toll roads, crowded with stage coaches and long strings of heavy freight wagons, serviced the camp from railheads at Elko, Carlin, Battle Mountain and Winnemucca. Tuscarora residents shifted their work between mining gold and silver, and ranching in Independence Valley.
By 1895, Tuscarora’s production had diminished greatly from its boom days to below $50,000 annually. The camp struggled until 1917, when most of the mining equipment was sold for scrap. This ended operations at Tuscarora until 1987, when Fischer-Watt and Horizon re-opened the Dexter Mine.
STATE HISTORICAL MARKER No. 48
STATE HISTORIC PRESERVATION OFFICE
NORTHEASTERN NEVADA HISTORICAL SOCIETY
Nevada State Historic Marker No 48 Map
Summary
| Name | Tuscarora, Nevada |
| Location | Elko County, Nevada |
| Latitude, Longitude | 41.2805, -116.1138 |
| Nevada State Historic Marker | 48 |
Sources
- Nevada State Historic Preservation Office, Tuscarora Marker No. 48
- Western Mining History, Tuscarora Nevada
- HistoryNet, Ghost Town: Tuscarora, Nevada
- Nevada Travel Network, Tuscarora
- Great Basin College, A Town That Won’t Die
- Travel Nevada, Tuscarora
- Online Nevada Encyclopedia, Tuscarora
Samuel C Mills
Samuel C Mills (1833–1911) was a Washington, D.C.-born photographer who documented James H. Simpson’s 1858–1859 expedition across the Great Basin, including White Pine County, Nevada, capturing some of the earliest photographs of the Oregon and California Trails and Native American subjects, before transitioning to a career as a police judge and temperance advocate.
Early Life and Beginnings in Photography (1833–1856)
Samuel C Mills was born on October 8, 1833, in Washington, D.C., to John and Mary Mills. Growing up in the capital, he worked in his father’s shoe factory as a young man, gaining practical experience but showing early interest in the emerging field of photography. In 1856, at age 23, Mills joined the photography studio of Blanchard P. Paige on Pennsylvania Avenue, where he honed his skills in portraiture and wet-plate collodion photography, a complex process requiring glass negatives and immediate development.
Expedition with James H. Simpson (1858–1859)
Mills’ most notable contribution came during his role as expedition photographer for Captain James H. Simpson’s 1858–1859 survey of the Central Route across the Great Basin, including White Pine County, Nevada (as referenced in prior conversation). Hired in March 1858 at $40 per month, with Edward Jagiello as his assistant at $25 per month, Mills was tasked with documenting the expedition’s journey from Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, to Camp Floyd, Utah, to map a wagon road for military and emigrant use during the Utah War.
The expedition departed on May 31, 1858, after Mills and Jagiello tested their equipment at Fort Leavenworth, producing early views of an artillery battery and three surviving photographs of the fort’s buildings. Simpson instructed Mills to capture “as many prominent scenes as possible,” including Fort Kearney, Court House Rock, Chimney Rock, Fort Laramie, and Ash Hollow, emphasizing topographical and geological features for the expedition’s report. On July 25, 1858, a team member noted Mills photographing Court House Rock, highlighting his active role.
At Camp Floyd, Mills and Jagiello set up a makeshift darkroom, producing paper prints from glass negatives, including views of the sprawling military garrison, then the largest in the U.S. Mills also photographed a Ute delegation led by Chief Arapeen on January 20–21, 1859, capturing a group portrait and a solo image of Arapeen, some of the earliest photographic records of Native Americans in the region. However, Simpson grew frustrated with Mills’ drinking habits, which impaired his duties. After multiple warnings, Simpson dismissed Mills on January 19, 1859, but reinstated him with a stern admonition following Mills’ plea for another chance. Concerns over dwindling photographic chemicals further limited Mills’ output.
The expedition returned to Washington, D.C., in September 1859, with no known photographs from the return journey, suggesting the camera was packed away. The delicate glass negatives were likely delivered to the War Department, though their ultimate fate is unknown. Mills’ employment ended upon the expedition’s conclusion, leaving behind the earliest surviving photographic record of the Oregon and California Trails.
Civil War and Transition to Law (1860–1872)
Returning to Washington, Mills resumed work at Paige’s studio, photographing soldiers as the Civil War began in 1861. In 1864, he enlisted in the Union Army as a hospital steward, serving until the war’s end in 1865. After the war, Mills returned to photography but began studying law, passing the bar in 1872. His legal career soon overshadowed his photographic work, marking a shift from his earlier artistic pursuits.
Later Life and Civic Engagement (1872–1911)
In 1872, Mills was appointed a police judge in Washington, D.C., a position he held for the rest of his career. His experiences with alcohol during the Simpson expedition may have influenced his commitment to temperance, leading him to found the Sons of Jonadab, a temperance organization. Mills was also an active member of the Grand Army of the Republic, a Union veterans’ group, and the Masonic Order, reflecting his civic engagement. He died on October 7, 1911, and was buried in Congressional Cemetery in Washington, D.C.
Legacy
Samuel C Mills is best remembered for his 1858–1859 photographs, which provide a rare visual record of the Oregon and California Trails and early Great Basin exploration. His work with Simpson’s expedition, despite challenges with alcohol and limited supplies, captured key landmarks and Native American subjects, contributing to the historical documentation of White Pine County and the broader American West. While his later career in law overshadowed his photography, Mills’ images remain a valuable resource for historians studying 19th-century exploration and frontier life.
Sources
- Encyclopedia, Samuel C. Mills, amp.blog.shops-net.com.
- Western Mining History, White Pine County, Nevada.
- Report of Explorations across the Great Basin in 1859 by James H. Simpson (University of Nevada Press, 1983).