Big Bear, CA
I quiet mountain community full of back country adventure.
Upper Antelope Canyon
Located just outside of Page, Arizona Upper Antelope Canyon is arguably the best known slot canyon on the planet, yet few people will know its name outside of desert enthusiasts. For those unaware of these structures, slot canyons are extremely narrow canyons, carved by water, which are typically just a few feet wide, but may be just a few inches. The typically arid dessert can instantly turn into raging torrent of water in just a few minutes with just a few inches of water. This water picks up speed, and debris such as sand, which scours the landscape including rock. Antelope Canyon is found on Navajo Tribal land, and access to the canyon is only allowed with a Navajo Guide.
Antelope Canyon is actually two separate slot canyons located a short distance from each other on either side of US 98. Upper Antelope Canyon is know as Tse’ bighanilini, which in Navajo means “the place where water runs through rocks.” Travel to the Canyon is done via Navajo run transport and you are allowed about 2 hours for your visit. The site is at about 4,000 feet elevation and the canyon walls rise 120 feet above a stream bed.
I would like to thank the LeChee Chapter of the Navajo Nation for keeping this location sacred and available to us.
James Rathbun, Destination4x4.com
Access into the upper canyon is simply a walking into a canyon. The trail is flat and sandy and very easy to manage. Upon entrance into the Upper Antelope Canyon you are immediately struck by the texture and color of this place. Just inside the entrance, is a small chamber which seems to great you, and the pink and orange glow of the light bouncing off the walls force your eyes up. The geography is such, that the narrow opening high above you lets in a small fraction of the available light, and that light bounces down towards the bottom of the canyon.
Relatively short, Upper Antelope Canyon may be traversed in just 5 minutes. However, this is simply a waste of your time if you just rush through. The only complaint of the canyon, are the other visitors. As a photographer, I have many photographs ruined by people turning a corner and walking into my frame while I was making an exposure. This does not mean they were rude or anything but patient, but rather an unfortunate side effect of composing photographs with long exposure times in a 18 inch wide slot Canyon.
As with all beautiful things, we must share this location and Antelope Canyon is a must stop location every time I visit the area. There is a hidden danger, in that the very forces which sculpt a slot canyon are still very much in play and every few years a new story will appear about someone being killed in a slot canyon due to a sudden flash flood.
I would like to thank the LeChee Chapter of the Navajo Nation for keeping this location sacred and available to us.
Upper Antelope Canyon Map
Goblin Valley Utah
Goblin Valley is located in Utah is a state park and campground which is adjacent to eroded flood plain. Formed by water, time and a soft sandstone, erosion sculpted the limestone into unique rock formations which some have stated appears to be goblins. The Goblin Valley itself is a day use hiking area which allows one to get lost in the maze of spires and rock formations.
Each rock spire ranges in height from 3 feet to about 20 feet tall. The fragile structures litter the landscape and sadly on occasion have been felled by people who do not have respect for nature. There are three established self, however the Valley of the Goblins is a open trail flat mud plane after a easy and short trail down from the parking area.
Goblin Valley State Park does offer an established campground of 22 campsites just over a hill from the Valley of the Goblins. The campground features, paved sites, bathrooms, showers, water and dump stations. The campground is very popular destination due to location next to Goblin Valley and is also a wonderful centralized base camp location for exploring the San Rafael Swell.
We stated in Goblin Valley in the off season several years ago. We were greeted with lots of camp sites available, privacy and a minor wind and rain storm. Despite the less then desirable conditions, we enjoyed our stay and will try to make it back again in the future.
Continue Reading →Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve
Established in 1976, the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve is located just west of Mojave and boasts the most consistent blooms that the California Poppy. The reserve does not plant or water the flowers, so the timing and abundance of the flowers is solely dependent upon rainfall each year. The bloom season begins late winter and may last throughout the spring depending upon conditions. In addition to the poppy, the Reserve also hosts a variety of species including Owl’s Clover, Davy Gilia, Goldfields, Lupine and Cream Cups.
The 1745 acre flower reserve ranges in elevation frim 2600 to 3000 feet in elevations and boasts 7 miles of trails. There are limited facilities, but the reserve does have some wheel chair access.
The California Poppy ( Eschscholzia californica ) is a small perennial is typically a short flowering planet which boasts a vibrant orange bloom. The flower itself grows on top of a sledder stalk and the four petal flower which has a silky texture, appears extremely delicate and vulnerable to the elements. The flowers open each morning and close in the evening with the cooler air.
The California Poppy has a large range which included more of California, parts of Oregon, Washington, Nevada, Arizona and Northern Baja California.
Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Map
Racetrack Valley
Racetrack valley is a rough graded road which departs the Ubehebe Crater site and heads south into the desert. The road is rough, but easily passable in a regular car. However, when entering back country areas such as this it is always a good idea to have the insurance of a reliable vehicle, high clearance, four wheel drive, etc… Do yourself a huge favor and air down your tires if you are properly equipped to air up when the trip is over.
The racetrack valley road is a 25 miles one way trip to the playa. The road is grated, but can be heavily wash-boarded depending on the time of year, rain fall, etc…
Along the way, there are many side trips and alternate trails to help expand your visit.
As you leave Ubehebe Crater, you will be driving south and gradually gaining elevation. Take your time and enjoy the drive, if you are lucky you may see a big horn sheep herd. The road gradually gains in elevation and climbs through a Joshua Tree Forest.
Once you reach the pass, the road continues to drop in elevation all the way down to the playa. Continue straight through tea kettle junction, and bear left down the valley past the side road to the Lippincott mine, which is a great side trail.
As you continue past the road to the Lippincott mine the road drops down to the Racetrack Playa itself. The first stop is ‘The Grandstand’ which is an outcropping of rock located in the north west corner of the racetrack. The second stop is the parking area to hike towards the stones. Don’t try to hike to the stones from the first Grandstand parking lot, or you will be hiking significantly further.
The highlight of the trip, is a short hike to the sailing or racing stones. The start of the hike is the parking area at the southern end of the racetrack playa.
To reach the stones hike east from the parking lot across the playa towards the dark stone hillside. It is short FLAT, meaning really FLAT hike towards the stones. Be sure the check the temperatures before you leave, and bring lots of water. This is true with anything you might want to do in Death Valley. Don’t walk on the playa if it is wet or muddy.
At the end of the 30 miles road there is a small primitive campground for overnight visits. Be sure to check with the National Park Service for regulations of back country camping within the park.
Notoriety
On September 19th, 1969 a Michigan front end loading is found burning along the road near the playa. Apparently, Manson order the machine burned. Park Rangers were deployed to the Racetrack. The rangers followed a set of tire tracked which belonged to a Toyota Land Cruiser which was stolen by Manson. The follow up investigate lead to the arrest of Charles Manson at Barker Ranch on October 12th, 1969.
Racetrack Valley Trail Map
References
The Standard Mill – Bodie, CA
The Standard Mill, also known as the Standard Consolidated Mining Company Mill, was a pivotal element in the history of Bodie, California. The building is one of the most iconic images or Bodie, and dominates the landscape. Located in the Bodie Hills east of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, this mill played a crucial role in the processing of ore from one of the richest gold-mining areas in the American West.
Formation of the Standard Company
The Standard Company was founded in 1877, quickly becoming one of the most prominent and productive mines in the Bodie District. The company consolidated several claims, thereby gaining control over a large portion of the mineral-rich land. The successful extraction and processing of gold ore by the Standard Company were instrumental in Bodie’s transformation from a small camp into a bustling mining town.
Construction and Operation of the Standard Mill
The Standard Mill was constructed in 1877 to process the ore extracted from the company’s mines. It employed the latest technology of the time, using a combination of steam power, gravity, and chemical processes to extract gold from the ore. The mill utilized the amalgamation process, which involved crushing the ore to a fine powder and then using mercury to separate the gold. This process was later supplemented with cyanidation, which allowed for the extraction of gold from low-grade ore, significantly improving recovery rates.
Technical Details
Originally, as built, the mill is powered by large steam boilers. There boilers are fed using wood brought up to Bodie on the Bodie and Benton Railroad. The mill initially featured a 20-stamp system, but as operations expanded, it was upgraded to a 30-stamp system. Later, the mill is converted to Hydroelectric power from a plant built approximately thirteen miles from the town at Dynamo Pond.
Ore is loaded into the mill using one of two trestles. The primary trestle connects to the backside of the mill, and used to haul ore from the mines deep inside mines inside of the mountain. The secondary trestle is sloped to the north and is used to haul ore up sevens stories above the the loading room. From there, the ore is sorted with grizzly bars before being dropped into the powerful stamps.
The stamps, which were heavy iron rods, repeatedly crushed the ore into a fine powder. This powder was then passed over mercury-coated copper plates, where the gold particles would adhere to the mercury. The amalgam of gold and mercury was then collected and heated to separate the gold from the mercury.
Economic Impact and Contribution to Bodie’s Growth
The Standard Mill was the most significant factor in Bodie’s economic boom during the late 19th century. By 1879, Bodie’s population had swelled to approximately 10,000 people, with the Standard Company producing gold worth millions of dollars by today’s standards. The wealth generated by the mill attracted a diverse population, leading to the establishment of various businesses, schools, and a newspaper. During the height of operations, the stamps from the mill could be heard four miles away, and operated twenty-four hours per day, six days a week.
Challenges and Decline
Despite its success, the Standard Mill faced numerous challenges, including harsh weather conditions, fires, and fluctuating gold prices. The mill experienced several fires, the most devastating occurring in 1898, which necessitated extensive rebuilding. Additionally, as the richest veins of ore were exhausted, the profitability of the mill declined. The Standard Company ceased operations in 1913, marking the end of Bodie’s major gold production.
Preservation and Historical Significance
Today, the Standard Mill stands as a testament to Bodie’s rich mining history. It is one of the best-preserved examples of a 19th-century mill in California. The site is now part of Bodie State Historic Park, established in 1962, which aims to preserve the town and educate the public about its historical significance. The mill’s machinery, structures, and surrounding buildings offer valuable insights into the technological advancements and industrial processes of the time.
Tours are available several times per day for a tickets price of $6 a person. The hour long takes you past the Hoover House up past the stream plant to the trestle, which fed ore up the the top of the mill. From there, the tour route enters the machinery room and power room before dropping into the slucing room and clean up rooms.
The Standard Mill was a cornerstone of the town’s mining industry and played a vital role in its economic development. Through its innovative use of technology and its contribution to gold production, the mill significantly influenced the growth and prosperity of Bodie during its peak years. Today, it remains an important historical site, providing a window into the challenges and achievements of the mining era in the American West.