The Three Gossips

The Three Gossips located in Arches National Park, Utah. Photo by James L Rathbun
The Three Gossips located in Arches National Park, Utah. Photo by James L Rathbun

In the heart of Arches National Park, where the desert sun carves shadows into the rust-hued earth, the Three Gossips stand as silent sentinels of time, their towering forms whispering tales of ancient landscapes. These monolithic sandstone figures rise abruptly from the parched valley floor, their silhouettes evoking the image of three figures huddled in eternal conversation, their voices lost to the wind. Bathed in the golden glow of dawn or the fiery hues of sunset, their surfaces shimmer with a palette of ochre, crimson, and amber, as if the very spirit of the desert has been sculpted into their forms. The play of light and shadow accentuates their rugged contours, giving them an almost lifelike presence—stoic yet animated, as though caught mid-gossip, frozen in a moment of conspiratorial exchange.

Each spire, distinct yet unified, bears the marks of eons: smooth, wind-polished faces juxtaposed with jagged edges where the elements have gnawed away at their resolve. The tallest of the trio stretches skyward, its pinnacle sharp against the boundless blue, while its companions lean slightly, their forms softened by the relentless caress of wind and rare desert rains. Together, they form a natural cathedral, a place where the silence of the desert feels sacred, interrupted only by the occasional cry of a raven or the rustle of tumbleweeds skittering across the sands.

Geology and Formation of the Three Gossips

The Three Gossips stand proudly near Park Avenue, Arches National Park.  Photo by James L Rathbun
The Three Gossips stand proudly near Park Avenue, Arches National Park. Photo by James L Rathbun

The Three Gossips are a testament to the geologic artistry of the Colorado Plateau, sculpted from the Entrada Sandstone, a formation laid down approximately 165 million years ago during the Jurassic period. This sandstone, born from ancient desert dunes and intermittent shallow seas, is composed primarily of fine-grained quartz cemented by calcium carbonate and iron oxides, which lend the rock its vibrant red and orange tones. The monument’s creation is a story of deposition, uplift, and erosion—a slow dance of geologic forces spanning millions of years.

Initially, the Entrada Sandstone was deposited as vast dune fields in an arid environment, with grains of sand carried by wind and cemented over time into solid rock. Tectonic forces associated with the uplift of the Colorado Plateau, beginning around 70 million years ago, elevated these sedimentary layers, exposing them to the elements. Erosion, driven by wind, water, and temperature fluctuations, became the master sculptor. The Three Gossips owe their distinct forms to differential erosion, where softer, less resistant layers of sandstone were worn away faster than the more durable sections, leaving behind the towering spires we see today.

The monument’s location within Arches National Park, near the Courthouse Towers, places it in a landscape shaped by faulting and salt tectonics. Beneath the surface, a thick layer of Paradox Formation salt, deposited 300 million years ago, shifted and dissolved, causing the overlying rock to fracture and collapse. These fractures allowed water to seep in, further eroding the sandstone into isolated towers and fins. The Three Gossips, standing as erosional remnants, are part of this dynamic process, their shapes continually refined by the desert’s unrelenting forces.

Today, the Three Gossips remain a striking example of nature’s ability to craft beauty from endurance, their forms a fleeting moment in the geologic saga of Arches National Park, destined to evolve as the desert continues its patient work of creation and destruction.

The Three Gossips in the movies

The Three Gossips, a distinctive rock formation in Arches National Park’s Courthouse Towers area, has appeared in a few films, leveraging its striking silhouette for cinematic backdrops. Based on available information, here is a list of movies that feature or were filmed in the vicinity of the Three Gossips:

  • Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade (1989): The opening sequence, set in 1912, features young Indiana Jones (River Phoenix) in Arches National Park. The Three Gossips is visible from the main park road during scenes where the scout troop rides through the desert, near the Courthouse Towers and The Organ.
  • Thelma & Louise (1991): Several scenes were filmed in and around Arches National Park, including the Courthouse Towers area where the Three Gossips is located. A notable scene involves the protagonists locking a state trooper in his car’s trunk, with the Three Gossips and surrounding formations as a backdrop.

William Franklin Keys

William Franklin Keys (September 27, 1879–1969) was a rugged American frontiersman, rancher, and miner who became a notable figure in the history of the Mojave Desert, particularly in what is now Joshua Tree National Park, California.

William F. Keys reenacts the scene of the fatal shooting of Worth Bagley - Photo NPS
William F. Keys reenacts the scene of the fatal shooting of Worth Bagley – Photo NPS

Early Life and Background

William Franklin Keys was born on September 27, 1879, in Palisade, Nebraska, to parents of Russian descent. In the early 1890s, his family relocated to Nebraska, where a young Bill began his journey into a rugged, self-reliant life. At age 15, he left home to work as a ranch hand, smelter worker, and miner, honing skills that would define his later years. His early adventures took him to Arizona, where he served as a deputy sheriff in Mohave County, and to Death Valley, where he befriended the colorful prospector Walter “Death Valley Scotty” Scott. Their association led to involvement in the infamous “Battle of Wingate Pass,” a swindle that added to Keys’ reputation as a tough frontiersman. By 1910, Keys arrived in the Twentynine Palms area of California, drawn to the harsh yet promising Mojave Desert.

Life in the Mojave Desert

In 1910, Keys took a job as custodian and assayer at the Desert Queen Mine in what is now Joshua Tree National Park. When the mine’s owner died, Keys was granted ownership of the mine as payment for back wages. In 1917, he filed for an 80-acre homestead under the Homestead Act, establishing the Desert Queen Ranch. He married Frances May Lawton in 1918, and together they raised seven children, three of whom tragically died in childhood and were buried on the ranch. The couple built a self-sufficient life, constructing a ranch house, schoolhouse, store, sheds, a stamp mill, an orchard, and irrigation systems, including a cement dam and windmill. Keys supplemented ranching with mining, operating a stamp mill to process ore for other miners and digging for gold and gypsum. His resourcefulness made the Desert Queen Ranch a symbol of early desert settlement.

The Wall Street Mill Dispute and Shootout

On May 11, 1943, a long-simmering feud with neighbor Worth Bagley, a former Los Angeles deputy sheriff, culminated in a fatal confrontation near the Wall Street Mill in what is now Joshua Tree National Park. The dispute centered on a property line and Keys’ use of a road that crossed Bagley’s land. Bagley, resentful of Keys’ access to the road for hauling ore to his mill, had posted a threatening sign: “KEYS, THIS IS MY LAST WARNING. STAY OFF MY PROPERTY.” On that fateful day, Keys, aware of the serious nature of such threats in the untamed desert, stopped his car to assess the situation. According to Keys, Bagley ambushed him, firing first. In self-defense, Keys returned fire, fatally shooting Bagley. Hours later, Keys turned himself in to authorities in Twentynine Palms, claiming he acted to protect his life.

Trial and Imprisonment

Keys was charged with murder and faced a contentious trial. The desert community was divided, with some viewing Keys as a hardworking homesteader defending his rights, while others saw him as an aggressor in a property dispute. The court convicted him, and he was sentenced to ten years at San Quentin Prison. During his incarceration, Keys utilized the prison library to educate himself, maintaining his sharp mind, which had been honed by years of navigating the desert’s challenges. His time in prison was marked by resilience, as he adapted to confinement with the same determination that had sustained him in the harsh Mojave.

Exoneration and Later Life

Keys’ conviction sparked controversy, and his wife, Frances, sought help from Erle Stanley Gardner, the renowned author of the Perry Mason novels and a frequent visitor to Joshua Tree. Gardner, moved by Keys’ story and convinced of his innocence, took up the case through his “Court of Last Resort,” a project dedicated to overturning wrongful convictions. Gardner’s investigation highlighted inconsistencies in the trial and supported Keys’ self-defense claim. In 1950, Keys was paroled, and in 1956, he received a full pardon, largely due to Gardner’s efforts. After his release, Keys returned to the Desert Queen Ranch, where he lived quietly until his death in 1969. To mark the site of the 1943 shootout, Keys placed a stone inscribed, “Here is where Worth Bagley bit the dust at the hand of W.F. Keys, May 11, 1943.” The original stone, vandalized in 2014, is now preserved in the Joshua Tree National Park museum, with a metal replica at the site.

Legacy

Bill Keys’ life embodies the tenacity and resourcefulness of early desert settlers. His Desert Queen Ranch, now part of Joshua Tree National Park, is preserved as a historic site, with park rangers offering guided tours from October to May to share his story. The ranch, with its array of buildings and mining equipment, stands as a testament to Keys’ ability to thrive in an unforgiving environment. The 1943 shootout, while a tragic chapter, underscores the challenges of frontier life, where disputes over land and resources could escalate to deadly confrontations. Keys’ exoneration, facilitated by Erle Stanley Gardner, highlights his enduring fight for justice. Today, the dirt road where the shootout occurred is a tourist attraction, and Keys’ story remains a compelling part of the Mojave Desert’s history.

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Horseshoe Bend

Horseshoe Bend is a stunning geological formation located on the Colorado River, just south of Page, Arizona. This iconic meander, carved over millennia by the river’s persistent flow, forms a dramatic, U-shaped loop that encircles a towering rock outcrop.

Horseshoe Bend is a stunning geological formation located on the Colorado River, just south of Page, Arizona. This iconic meander, carved over millennia by the river’s persistent flow, forms a dramatic, U-shaped loop that encircles a towering rock outcrop. Situated within the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, it offers breathtaking views from a steep, 1,000-foot (300-meter) cliff overlooking the emerald-green waters below, framed by rugged, reddish desert cliffs. The overlook is accessible via a short, 1.5-mile round-trip hike from a parking area off U.S. Route 89, making it a popular destination for visitors to northern Arizona. The site is renowned for its striking beauty, especially at sunrise or sunset when the light enhances the vibrant colors of the canyon and river. Horseshoe Bend attracts photographers, nature enthusiasts, and tourists, drawing over two million visitors annually, though its popularity has led to increased management efforts to protect the fragile desert environment. Always stay on designated trails and respect safety barriers due to the sheer drop.

Horseshoe Bend, located near Page, Arizona, is a stunning example of a geological phenomenon known as a meander, where a river curves dramatically, creating a near-circular loop that resembles the shape of a horseshoe. This iconic feature along the Colorado River showcases the intricate interplay of geological processes, water flow, and time. Below is a detailed description of how rivers form bends like Horseshoe Bend, exploring the processes, conditions, and forces involved.


What is a Meander?

A meander is a sinuous, looping bend in a river’s course, often formed in relatively flat or gently sloping landscapes. Unlike straight river channels, which are rare in nature, meanders develop as a river seeks the path of least resistance across a landscape, eroding and depositing sediment in a dynamic process. Horseshoe Bend is an entrenched meander, meaning it is deeply incised into the bedrock, creating a dramatic, steep-walled canyon around the river’s curve.


Formation of Meanders

The formation of river bends like Horseshoe Bend involves several key processes, driven by the interaction of water flow, sediment transport, and the geological characteristics of the landscape.

Initial River Flow and Instability

Rivers naturally develop small irregularities in their channels due to variations in the terrain, such as slight depressions, obstacles like rocks or vegetation, or differences in soil and rock resistance. These irregularities disrupt the river’s flow, causing water to move faster on one side of the channel than the other. This differential flow sets the stage for meander development:

  • Faster Flow on the Outside: Water moves more quickly along the outer edge of a developing bend due to centrifugal force, much like a car taking a curve. This faster flow erodes the outer bank, carving it away.
  • Slower Flow on the Inside: On the inner side of the bend, water slows down, allowing sediment to settle and form a depositional feature called a point bar.

This erosion on the outer bank and deposition on the inner bank amplify the bend over time, causing the river to curve more dramatically.

Feedback Loop of Erosion and Deposition

As the river continues to flow, the meander grows through a self-reinforcing feedback loop:

  • The faster-moving water on the outer bank erodes material, deepening and widening the curve.
  • The eroded sediment is carried downstream and deposited on the inner bank, where the flow is slower, building up the point bar.
  • This process causes the meander to migrate laterally across the floodplain, with the bend becoming more pronounced.

Role of Sediment and Flow Dynamics

The type and amount of sediment a river carries influence meander formation. Rivers with a high sediment load, like the Colorado River, can deposit significant material on point bars, which helps stabilize the inner curve. Meanwhile, the river’s velocity and volume determine its erosive power. Seasonal variations, such as snowmelt or heavy rains, can increase the river’s flow, accelerating erosion and reshaping the meander.


Entrenched Meanders and Horseshoe Bend

The Colorado River Gorge cuts into the bedrock at the Horseshow Bend
The Colorado River Gorge cuts into the bedrock at the Horseshow Bend

Horseshoe Bend is not a typical meander found on a flat floodplain but an entrenched meander, which forms when a river cuts deeply into bedrock. This process is particularly pronounced in the Colorado Plateau, where Horseshoe Bend is located. Here’s how it happens:

Uplift of the Colorado Plateau

The Colorado Plateau, a region of relatively flat-lying sedimentary rocks, has been uplifted over millions of years due to tectonic forces. As the plateau rose, the Colorado River, which was already flowing across the region, began to incise downward into the bedrock to maintain its course. This process is called downcutting.

Preservation of Meander Shape

As the river cut downward, it retained the sinuous meander pattern it had developed on a flatter landscape millions of years ago. Instead of eroding laterally across a floodplain (as meanders typically do), the river eroded vertically into the resistant sandstone of the Navajo Formation, creating steep canyon walls. This results in an entrenched meander, where the river’s looping path is preserved but now confined within a deep, narrow canyon.

Geological Context of Horseshoe Bend

At Horseshoe Bend, the Colorado River has carved a canyon approximately 1,000 feet (300 meters) deep into the Glen Canyon Group, primarily composed of Navajo Sandstone. The river’s path forms a near-perfect U-shape, with the water flowing around a central rock promontory. The steep, vertical walls of the canyon highlight the river’s erosive power and the resistance of the surrounding rock, which prevents significant lateral migration of the meander.


Specific Features of Horseshoe Bend

Horseshoe Bend’s dramatic appearance is the result of several unique factors:

  • Geological Setting: The Navajo Sandstone, a thick layer of cross-bedded sandstone formed from ancient desert dunes, is highly resistant to erosion. This resistance allows the canyon walls to remain steep and well-defined, enhancing the visual impact of the bend.
  • River Dynamics: The Colorado River carries a significant sediment load, including sand and gravel, which aids in both erosion (by scouring the bedrock) and deposition (building point bars). The river’s high flow during spring snowmelt or after heavy rains increases its erosive capacity.
  • Time Scale: The formation of Horseshoe Bend has taken millions of years. The Colorado River began incising into the Colorado Plateau around 5–6 million years ago, following regional uplift. The meander itself likely began forming much earlier, when the river flowed across a flatter landscape, and was later entrenched as the plateau rose.

Ongoing Evolution of Meanders

Meanders like Horseshoe Bend are not static; they continue to evolve over time:

  • Meander Migration: Although entrenched meanders are constrained by bedrock, slow lateral erosion can still occur, causing the bend to shift slightly over geological time.
  • Neck Cutoff: In some cases, a meander can become so tight that the river erodes through the narrow neck of land separating two parts of the loop, forming a cutoff and abandoning the meander as an oxbow lake. However, at Horseshoe Bend, the resistant bedrock makes a cutoff unlikely in the near future.
  • Canyon Deepening: The Colorado River continues to downcut, deepening the canyon and making the walls of Horseshoe Bend even more dramatic over time.

Environmental and Human Factors

  • Climate and Water Flow: The arid climate of northern Arizona limits vegetation, which reduces bank stabilization and allows the river to erode the bedrock more freely. Human interventions, such as the construction of Glen Canyon Dam upstream, have altered the Colorado River’s flow and sediment transport, potentially affecting the rate of erosion at Horseshoe Bend.
  • Tourism and Preservation: Horseshoe Bend is a popular tourist destination, attracting millions of visitors annually. The overlook, perched 4,200 feet above sea level, offers a breathtaking view of the 270-degree river bend below. Efforts to manage tourism, such as designated trails and parking areas, help protect the fragile desert environment and prevent erosion of the canyon rim.

Why Horseshoe Bend is Unique

Horseshoe Bend stands out due to its combination of geological, hydrological, and aesthetic factors:

  • Scale and Symmetry: The near-perfect U-shape and the sheer scale of the canyon (1,000 feet deep and 0.6 miles wide at the bend) make it visually striking.
  • Contrast: The emerald-green waters of the Colorado River contrast vividly with the red and orange hues of the Navajo Sandstone, creating a photogenic landscape.
  • Geological Story: Horseshoe Bend tells a story of millions of years of uplift, erosion, and river dynamics, offering a window into the geological history of the Colorado Plateau.

Conclusion

The formation of river bends like Horseshoe Bend is a testament to the power of water, time, and geological processes. Starting as subtle curves in a river’s path, meanders grow through the interplay of erosion and deposition, amplified by the river’s flow and the landscape’s characteristics. At Horseshoe Bend, the Colorado River’s entrenched meander, carved into resistant Navajo Sandstone, creates a dramatic and iconic feature. This natural wonder continues to evolve, shaped by the relentless flow of the river and the geological forces of the Colorado Plateau, captivating visitors with its beauty and offering geologists a striking example of the Earth’s dynamic processes.

West Valley Jeep Road

Arches National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah
Arches National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah

West Valley Jeep Road, also known as West Valley 4×4 Road, offers a rugged and scenic off-road adventure in the northwestern backcountry of Arches National Park, connecting the Tower Arch 4×4 Road to Willow Springs Road. Spanning approximately 9.4 miles, this moderate trail is designed for high-clearance 4WD vehicles and experienced mountain bikers, with hiking possible but less common due to the trail’s length and exposure. The route traverses a stark desert landscape of sandy washes, sand dunes, and occasional rocky outcrops, offering sweeping views of sandstone fins, distant La Sal Mountains, and lesser-visited formations like the Eye of the Whale Arch. The trail is recommended for travel from north to south due to steep, sandy hills that are challenging to climb in the opposite direction. With an elevation change of about 45 feet (593 feet of climb and 638 feet of descent), the trail takes approximately 35-45 minutes by vehicle or 2-3 hours by bike, with hiking times varying based on pace.

The trail begins at the junction with Tower Arch 4×4 Road (accessible via Salt Valley Road from the park’s main entrance) and ends at Willow Springs Road, near its intersection with Highway 191 or further south at Balanced Rock. Key features include the Eye of the Whale Arch, accessible via a short detour, and the solitude of the park’s less-traveled backcountry. The trail’s technical sections, including deep sand and small rock ledges, require careful navigation, and conditions vary with weather, so checking with the Arches Visitor Center for road status is advised. Spring and fall are ideal seasons, as summer temperatures often exceed 100°F, and winter may bring snow or mud.

Trail Details

  • Length: 9.4 miles one-way.
  • Difficulty: Moderate for 4WD vehicles and mountain bikes; strenuous for hikers due to distance, exposure, and uneven terrain.
  • Elevation Change: 593 feet climb, 638 feet descent; altitude ranges from 4,775 to 5,083 feet.
  • Terrain: Sandy washes, sand dunes, rocky sections, and slickrock. High-clearance 4WD required; OHVs, ATVs, and UTVs are prohibited in the park.
  • Access: Start at the junction with Tower Arch 4×4 Road (38.701410, -109.580280) or access via Willow Springs Road from Highway 191. An Arches National Park entry fee ($30 per vehicle) is required, payable at the main entrance or online at recreation.gov. Timed entry reservations are required April 1–October 31, 2025, from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m.
  • Features: Access to Eye of the Whale Arch, views of sandstone formations, and a quiet backcountry experience. No dinosaur tracks are noted on this specific route, unlike Willow Springs Road.
  • Challenges: Steep sandy hills, deep sand, and rocky sections require technical driving or biking skills. No shade, limited cell coverage, and potential flash flooding in washes after rain. Pets are not allowed off roads, and motorcycles must be street-legal.
  • Amenities: No facilities on the trail. The closest are at the Willow Springs Road trailhead (porta-potties in UtahRaptor State Park) or Balanced Rock (picnic table, outhouses). Bring ample water and a detailed map (e.g., Trails Illustrated Moab North).

Trail Map

Hiking and Biking Notes

Hiking West Valley Jeep Road is uncommon due to its 9.4-mile length, lack of shade, and monotonous gravelly stretches, as noted by some trail users who found it dull for walking. For hikers, the trail is a long, exposed journey best suited for cooler months (March–May or September–November). The route follows the road, with firm footing on sand and slickrock but no dedicated path. Mountain bikers find the trail more rewarding, navigating sandy washes and rocky sections, though deep sand may require dismounting. Bikers should yield to vehicles and stay on designated roads to protect the fragile desert ecosystem, including cryptobiotic soil. A detour to the Eye of the Whale Arch, about 1.7 miles from the Tower Arch Road junction, adds a scenic highlight. Both hikers and bikers should carry ample water, sunscreen, and GPS navigation, as trail markers are minimal, and the route can be disorienting.

History and Significance

West Valley Jeep Road, like other backcountry routes in Arches National Park, has historical roots in the region’s early exploration and land use. While specific historical records for this road are sparse, its significance lies in its role as part of the park’s limited network of 4WD trails, offering access to remote areas rarely seen by casual visitors. The road traverses terrain shaped by geologic processes dating back 300 million years, when the Paradox Formation’s salt bed was deposited, later influencing the uplift and erosion that created the park’s iconic arches and fins. The Entrada Sandstone, visible along the trail, formed 165 million years ago from ancient dune fields, and the road’s path through sandy washes and slickrock reflects this geologic legacy.

Historically, the broader Moab region, including areas near West Valley Jeep Road, was inhabited by the Fremont and Ancestral Puebloan peoples until about 700 years ago, with evidence of their presence in nearby rock art and petroglyphs along routes like Potash Road. Spanish missionaries encountered Ute and Paiute tribes in 1775, and Mormon settlers attempted to establish the Elk Mountain Mission in 1855, abandoning it due to harsh conditions. Willow Springs Road, which West Valley Jeep Road connects to, was used by ranchers and early explorers, and its proximity to Native American migration routes adds cultural significance. The road’s integration into Arches National Park, established as a national monument in 1929 and a national park in 1971, reflects its role in providing access to the park’s geologic wonders, such as the Eye of the Whale Arch.

Today, West Valley Jeep Road is valued for its solitude and adventure, appealing to off-road enthusiasts and cyclists seeking to explore the park’s backcountry. Its designation as a National Park Service-managed route emphasizes responsible use to preserve the delicate desert ecosystem, with regulations prohibiting off-road travel and protecting features like cryptobiotic soil. The road’s connection to UtahRaptor State Park (formerly BLM land) and its proximity to dinosaur track sites on Willow Springs Road further enhance its significance as a gateway to the region’s paleontological and cultural heritage.

Mary Edith Fly

Mary Edith “Mollie” Fly (c. 1847–1925) was a pioneering American photographer who, with her husband Camillus “Buck” Fly, documented life in Tombstone, Arizona, during its 1880s silver-mining boom. Born in the U.S. and raised in San Francisco, she married Buck in 1879 and moved to Tombstone, where they established Fly’s Photography Gallery. Mollie managed the studio and boarding house, taking portraits of residents while Buck captured historic images, including Geronimo’s 1886 surrender. Despite personal challenges, including Buck’s alcoholism and their separations, Mollie ran the studio solo after his 1901 death until 1912. She donated their negatives to the Smithsonian and retired to Los Angeles. Inducted into the Arizona Women’s Hall of Fame in 1989, Mollie’s work preserved a vivid record of Tombstone’s frontier era.

Mary ("Mollie")  Goodrich Fly was a photographer who married photographer C.S. Fly in San Francisco. They arrived in Tombstone, Arizona Territory in December 1879 where they established a photography business and boarding house.
Mary (“Mollie”) Goodrich Fly was a photographer who married photographer C.S. Fly in San Francisco. They arrived in Tombstone, Arizona Territory in December 1879 where they established a photography business and boarding house.

Early Life and Background

Mary Edith McKie, known as Mollie Fly, was born around 1847, likely in the United States, though details of her early life remain scarce. In the late 1850s, her family relocated to San Francisco, California, where she spent her formative years. Little is documented about her education or how she acquired her photographic skills, a rarity for women in the mid-19th century. Mollie married twice; her first marriage to Samuel D. Goodrich ended in divorce after two years. In 1879, she married Camillus Sidney “Buck” Fly, a photographer, in San Francisco, marking the beginning of their shared professional and personal journey. The couple later adopted a daughter, Kitty Fly.

Arrival in Tombstone and Establishment of Fly’s Photography Gallery

C. S. Fly's Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona
C. S. Fly’s Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona

In December 1879, Mollie and Buck arrived in Tombstone, Arizona Territory, during its silver-mining boom, when the town was rapidly growing into one of the American frontier’s last boomtowns. They initially set up a temporary photography studio in a tent, capitalizing on the influx of miners, merchants, and adventurers. By July 1880, they had constructed a 12-room boarding house at 312 Fremont Street, which included their permanent studio, known as Fly’s Photography Gallery, at the back. Mollie played a pivotal role in managing both the boarding house and the studio, especially when Buck was away on photographic expeditions. As one of the few female photographers of the era, she took studio portraits for 35 cents each, capturing the diverse faces of Tombstone’s residents, from miners to merchants.

Role in Recording Tombstone’s Events

Mollie’s contributions to documenting Tombstone’s history were significant, though often overshadowed by her husband’s more publicized work. The Flys’ studio was strategically located near the site of the infamous Gunfight at the O.K. Corral on October 26, 1881, one of the most iconic events in Old West history. Buck was an eyewitness to the shootout, which occurred just outside their studio, and reportedly disarmed a dying Billy Clanton while armed with a Henry rifle. Curiously, no photographs of the gunfight’s aftermath were taken, possibly due to threats from the Earp faction, though Mollie and Buck’s studio captured portraits of many key figures in Tombstone, including founder Ed Schieffelin and surgeon Dr. George E. Goodfellow.

While Buck gained recognition for his photojournalistic work, including the only known images of Geronimo’s surrender in 1886, Mollie ensured the studio’s continuity. She managed operations during Buck’s absences, producing photographic postcards, such as one captioned “Arizona Prospectors, Tombstone,” which offered rare glimpses into the town’s daily life. Her work, though less credited, helped preserve the visual record of a bustling frontier town marked by saloons, stagecoach robberies, and mining ventures.

Challenges and Resilience

The Flys’ personal and professional lives were fraught with challenges. Buck’s heavy drinking led to their temporary separation in 1887, and by the late 1880s, Tombstone’s economy declined as silver prices fell and mines flooded. In 1893, the couple attempted to open a new studio in Phoenix, but the venture failed, prompting their return to Tombstone a year later. They separated again in the late 1890s, with Buck establishing a studio in Bisbee, Arizona, where a fire at the Phelps Dodge Mercantile Company warehouse destroyed many of their glass-plate negatives. After Buck’s death in Bisbee in 1901, Mollie ran the Tombstone studio solo for another decade, demonstrating remarkable resilience. In 1905, she published a collection of Buck’s photographs, Scenes in Geronimo’s Camp: The Apache Outlaw and Murderer, preserving his historic images of Geronimo’s surrender.

Later Life and Legacy

In 1912, Mollie retired after a second fire destroyed her studio in Tombstone in 1915. Recognizing the historical value of their work, she donated the surviving negatives to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. She then moved to Los Angeles, California, where she lived until her death in 1925. Mollie’s contributions as a pioneering female photographer were posthumously honored in 1989 when she was inducted into the Arizona Women’s Hall of Fame.

C. S. Fly's Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona on fire 1912, Photograph by Mary "Mollie" Fly
C. S. Fly’s Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona on fire 1912, Photograph by Mary “Mollie” Fly

Mollie Fly’s role in recording Tombstone’s events was integral to preserving the town’s legacy as “The Town Too Tough to Die.” Through her management of Fly’s Photography Gallery and her own photographic work, she captured the essence of a volatile frontier era, contributing to one of the most comprehensive pictorial records of early Tombstone. Her perseverance as a woman in a male-dominated field and her dedication to her craft ensure her place as a significant figure in Arizona’s history.

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