Big Bear, CA
I quiet mountain community full of back country adventure.
Bert Smith’s Cabin
Bert Smith’s Cabin, commonly known as the Rock House or Rock Spring Cabin, is a historic stone structure located in the Mojave National Preserve in San Bernardino County, California. Situated along the Rock Spring Loop Trail near the ruins of Camp Rock Spring, the cabin overlooks a scenic desert valley and serves as a poignant reminder of one veteran’s resilience in the harsh Mojave Desert environment. Built in 1929, it stands as a testament to homesteading, health-driven migration to arid regions, and the broader history of the Mojave Road corridor. Today, it is preserved by the National Park Service (NPS) as a public hiking destination and interpretive site.
Bert Smith’s Background and Move to the Desert
Bert George Smith (often referred to simply as Bert Smith) was a World War I veteran who served in Europe. During the war, he was exposed to poison gas—likely mustard gas—used in chemical warfare, which severely scarred his lungs. Upon returning to the United States, his health declined dramatically. In the late 1920s, the Department of Veterans Affairs recommended that he relocate to the Mojave Desert, believing the dry climate might extend his life. Doctors gave him only a short time to live, perhaps as little as a year.
Smith arrived in the Mojave in 1929 and chose a site above the historic Camp Rock Spring, a former U.S. Army outpost used from 1866 to 1868 and a vital water source for Native American tribes, explorers, settlers, and military personnel. The area had long been part of desert travel networks, including the Mojave Road.
Construction of the Cabin
Smith initially built a simple wooden shack for shelter. He later upgraded it into a more substantial rock house using local stones, completing the structure around 1929 or in the early 1930s. The single-story cabin featured a functional design suited to the desert: thick stone walls for insulation, basic windows, a chimney, and a modest footprint. It had no electricity or modern amenities like television, emphasizing self-reliance and simplicity.
Smith enhanced the site by constructing wells and dikes in Rock Spring Canyon to improve water availability. He also maintained a small herd of goats, whose milk sustained him and his animals; remnants of the goat pen and corrals are still visible nearby. The cabin’s elevated location provided panoramic views of the surrounding desert, including the New York Mountains to the north.
Life at the Cabin
Despite his grave prognosis, Smith thrived in the isolated desert setting. He lived at the Rock House for approximately 25–27 years, until 1954, far outlasting medical expectations. His existence was one of quiet solitude amid the Mojave’s rugged landscape—tending goats, maintaining the spring improvements, and embracing the peace of a life without modern distractions. A common inscription or description of the site captures this spirit: “Former home of Bert George Smith. No television, no electricity. Just peace and quiet.”
In the 1930s, the area saw brief mining activity nearby when prospectors discovered copper in Watson Wash and built a small mill to process ore. The operation was short-lived and soon abandoned, leaving ruins that the Rock Spring Loop Trail now passes.
Subsequent Residents and Transition
After Smith left the cabin in 1954 (he reportedly moved to a retirement home and passed away in 1967), the structure stood vacant for a time. In 1981, desert artist Carl Faber—already experienced in living rough in the East Mojave—moved in and operated an informal art business there for about five years. He sold his artwork to passing four-wheel-drive travelers along the Mojave Road. Faber later relocated to a nearby property, continuing his art until 2003 before moving to New Mexico. He reflected positively on the lifestyle, noting how many visitors envied his freedom.
Current Status and Preservation
The NPS has restored and maintains the cabin, which remains in good condition with its stone construction intact. It is locked to protect the interior, but visitors can view it closely from the outside. The site is easily accessible via a short walk from a dirt parking area along Rock Spring Road (0.2 miles south of Cedar Canyon Road), with picnic tables and vault toilets nearby. It forms part of the one-mile Rock Spring Loop Trail, which also highlights the miners’ mill ruins and Camp Rock Spring.
An official NPS historical marker at the site details Smith’s story and the area’s layered history. The cabin is a popular stop for hikers, off-road enthusiasts, and history buffs exploring the Mojave National Preserve.
Significance and Legacy
Bert Smith’s Cabin embodies themes of veteran recovery, desert adaptation, and human perseverance. Smith’s defiance of a terminal diagnosis through simple desert living inspired later residents like Carl Faber and continues to captivate visitors. It connects to broader Mojave narratives: military history at Camp Rock Spring, transient mining booms, and the enduring allure of remote homesteading. As part of the protected Mojave National Preserve, the site educates the public about the human stories woven into this arid landscape while preserving its natural and cultural resources for future generations.
In summary, what began as a desperate health refuge became a symbol of endurance. Bert Smith’s Rock House stands today not just as a historic building, but as a monument to the quiet determination of those who sought solace and survival in the Mojave Desert.
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Nevada City, Nevada – Churchill County Ghost Town
Nevada City, Nevada, is a short-lived ghost town in Churchill County, located approximately four miles east of Fallon near the intersection of U.S. Highway 50 (the “Loneliest Road in America”) and State Route 118. At an elevation of about 3,930 feet (1,198 m), the site sits in the arid Lahontan Valley of western Nevada. Unlike many Nevada ghost towns tied to mining booms or Pony Express stations, Nevada City represents a unique 20th-century socialist utopian experiment.
Founding as the Nevada Cooperative Colony (1916)
In the mid-1910s, C.V. Eggleston, associated with the Llano del Rio socialist colony in California, promoted the idea of a cooperative community in western Nevada. The Nevada Colony Corporation acquired land on the former J.S. Harmon Ranch east of Fallon. The group advertised Nevada City as an idealistic socialist haven offering collective farming, shared resources, and an alternative to capitalist society. Promotional materials painted a vision of a sophisticated, planned community.
The colony officially launched in 1916. Plans were ambitious: two long streets parallel to the Lincoln Highway (predecessor to U.S. 50) were platted for up to 200 frame and adobe houses. A circular boulevard would enclose the town, featuring sunken gardens, tennis courts, parks, croquet grounds, and walkways. An elaborate arch was envisioned at the highway entrance, with an access road from the north. The existing cement-block Harmon farmhouse was repurposed as the “Nevada City Hotel.” Cooperative farming served as the economic base.
At its peak, roughly 200 people gathered at the site, drawn by the promise of a better life through socialism. The community emphasized shared labor and resources in the high-desert environment.
Challenges and Decline (1917–1919)
Construction began in earnest around mid-1917, but the grandiose plans largely remained unrealized. Only limited building occurred, and the town never developed into the cosmopolitan center promoters described.
Several factors contributed to its rapid failure:
- Misleading advertising and mismanagement — Promotional claims exaggerated the site’s potential and the colony’s readiness. Financial dealings by the Nevada Colony Corporation’s directors came under scrutiny; some had ties to the troubled Llano del Rio project.
- Anti-war stance during World War I — Many colonists opposed U.S. involvement in the war. This unpopularity in the local community and broader society created tension. In one tragic incident, Churchill County Sheriff Mark Wildes was shot and killed while attempting to arrest colonist Paul Walters (a socialist farmer from Oklahoma) as a draft evader. Two deaths were linked to the resulting conflicts.
- Economic and practical difficulties — The harsh desert climate, limited water resources, and challenges of large-scale cooperative agriculture in the region proved daunting. Internal disputes and external hostility accelerated the collapse.
By 1919, the Nevada Cooperative Colony had folded. Most residents dispersed, and the town quickly became a ghost town. Little physical development survived beyond the repurposed hotel building and scattered remnants.
Legacy and Today
Nevada City stands as a curious footnote in Churchill County history, illustrating early 20th-century utopian and socialist movements in the American West. Its failure highlighted the difficulties of implementing cooperative ideals in a remote, arid landscape amid national wartime pressures and local skepticism.
Today, the site is largely abandoned with minimal visible ruins. It lies on private or former colony land near modern highways, making it accessible but understated compared to more dramatic Nevada ghost towns. Interpretive information occasionally appears in local histories, such as those from the Churchill County Museum in Fallon or regional publications. The story is sometimes referenced alongside other short-lived experimental communities of the era.
Context in Churchill County
Churchill County, established in 1861 and named after Fort Churchill (a key military post protecting emigrant trails and the Pony Express), has a rich history of transportation corridors, agriculture (especially after the Newlands Project irrigation), and scattered mining or settlement attempts. Nevada City emerged during a later period when Fallon had become the county seat (moved there in 1903–1904). It contrasts with 19th-century sites like Cold Springs Station (Pony Express era) or Ragtown (emigrant stop) by representing ideological rather than economic or military origins.
While Nevada City never achieved lasting success, its brief existence adds a layer of social and political diversity to the county’s narrative, reflecting broader American experiments in communal living during the Progressive Era.
The remote desert location east of Fallon still evokes the optimism and challenges faced by its idealistic founders over a century ago. For those interested in Nevada’s lesser-known histories, it offers a compelling tale of ambition, conflict, and ultimate abandonment in the Great Basin.
Rox, Nevada – Lincoln County Ghost Town
Rox is a minor extinct settlement (ghost town) in Lincoln County, Nevada, at coordinates approximately 36°52′51″N 114°40′02″W and an elevation of 1,913 ft (583 m). It lies along the historic San Pedro, Los Angeles and Salt Lake Railroad (later part of the Union Pacific system) in a remote, rocky area of the county.
History
The first settlement at Rox occurred around 1902, likely tied to the development of the railroad line through the region. The community took its name from the rocky condition of the original town site.
A post office operated at Rox from 1921 until 1949, serving what was probably a small railroad siding, section crew, or ranching-related community. Like many minor Nevada stops, it never grew into a significant town and faded as rail operations modernized and local economic activity declined.
Rox appears in railroad records and maps as a stop or siding along the main line (sometimes referenced in the context of the Los Angeles and Salt Lake Railroad route). It is one of the lesser-known and least-documented sites among Lincoln County’s numerous ghost towns and railroad-related locations (others nearby or similar include Carp, Leith, and various sidings in Rainbow Canyon or Meadow Valley areas).
Today, Rox is fully abandoned with minimal or no visible structures remaining, typical of small railroad ghost towns that lacked major mining booms or sustained agriculture.
Buildings and Infrastructure (Build List)
Information on specific buildings is extremely limited due to Rox’s obscurity and small scale. No major ruins, mines, or notable structures are widely documented in historical sources or ghost town guides:
- Railroad siding/tracks and associated facilities — Basic infrastructure for the San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt Lake Railroad (early 1900s onward), likely including a section house, water tank, or basic maintenance facilities for track crews.
- Post office — Operated 1921–1949; probably housed in a small building or home.
- Possible residences or support buildings — Modest homes or cabins for railroad workers, ranchers, or a tiny population (one early reference notes a population around 33, though this may be approximate or outdated).
Any remnants would likely consist of foundations, scattered debris, or railroad-related artifacts. Comprehensive ghost town surveys (e.g., from sites like nvtami.com) do not highlight Rox with photos or detailed ruins, underscoring its minor status.
Notable Citizens and Events
No prominent or notable citizens are recorded in available historical accounts. Rox lacked the mining rushes, violence, or economic prominence of larger Lincoln County sites like Pioche, Delamar (“The Widow Maker”), or Bullionville. It appears to have been a quiet, functional railroad and possibly ranching support point rather than a boomtown.
No major events (e.g., strikes, fires, famous visits, or disasters) are documented. Its history is one of quiet existence tied to the railroad’s operation through southern Nevada’s challenging terrain.
Context in Lincoln County
Lincoln County features dozens of ghost towns and historic sites, many tied to 19th-century silver mining (e.g., Pioche) or Mormon settlement and ranching. Rox represents the later railroad era (early 20th century), when lines like the SPLA&SL opened up remote areas for transport, ranching, and small-scale support communities. Nearby areas include Meadow Valley Wash and other railroad sidings.
Leete, Nevada – Churchill County Ghost Town
Leete, Nevada, is a historic ghost town and former industrial site in northwestern Churchill County, Nevada, near the border with Lyon County. It is best known as the location of the Eagle Salt Works, a major salt production operation that supplied the Comstock Lode mines in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. A variant name for the site was “Eagle Salt Works.” The community took its name from Benjamin Franklin (B.F.) Leete, who discovered the rich salt deposits and established the works there.
Location and Setting
Leete sits in the arid Great Basin desert along the route of the original Central Pacific Railroad (later Southern Pacific) in the Leete Mining District. Coordinates place it approximately at 39° 44′ N, 119° 3′ W, on the Eagle Rock USGS quadrangle, at an elevation of about 4,039 feet (1,231 m). The site lies just east of the railroad grade, near salt marshes (including the Eagle Salt Marsh) that provided the raw material for production. It is in a remote area of northwestern Churchill County, not far from other historic sites associated with overland trails and early rail development. Today, little remains beyond scattered ruins, making it a classic Nevada ghost town accessible mainly to those exploring via backroads or rail remnants.
Discovery and Establishment of the Eagle Salt Works (1869–1870s)
In 1869, B.F. Leete—a surveyor associated with the Central Pacific Railroad—discovered extensive salt deposits in the marsh east of the newly completed railroad line. He promptly established the Eagle Salt Works and began recovering salt, primarily through solar evaporation of brine from the marsh. Operations ramped up quickly; by 1871, the works were already supplying salt to the mills and mines of Virginia City on the Comstock Lode, where salt was essential for processing silver ore (used in amalgamation and other metallurgical processes).
An Eagle Salt Works post office opened on July 10, 1871 (with some interruptions), reflecting the site’s growing importance as an industrial outpost. The salt works initially produced around 3,000 tons annually and became a key supplier to Nevada’s booming mining industry.
Peak Production and Economic Role (1879–1884)
The Eagle Salt Works reached its height between 1879 and 1884, shipping approximately 334,000 tons of salt during that period. This included both industrial-grade salt for mining operations and smaller amounts of table salt (around 200 tons per year in 1883–1884). The operation employed workers, featured evaporation ponds, processing facilities, and loading areas near the railroad for efficient shipment westward to the Comstock and other mining districts.
A short-lived borax operation also occurred nearby at the Hot Springs Borax Marsh in 1871, but it proved unprofitable and was quickly abandoned. Nearby mining activity, such as the Nezelda Mine (worked for gold, silver, and lead in the 1880s, located about 6 miles northwest), added to the district’s modest mineral output, though salt remained the dominant product.
Records from the Eagle Salt Works (preserved in archival collections) document shipments, purchasers, and production details, underscoring its role in supporting Nevada’s silver economy during the post-Comstock peak years.
Decline and Railroad Changes (Late 1890s–1910s)
Production slowed after the mid-1880s as demand fluctuated and competition or depletion factors emerged. A major blow came when the Southern Pacific Railroad rerouted its main line through Hazen (to the south), bypassing Leete and severing its direct rail connection. In January 1903, rails were removed from the old grade, though Leete reportedly negotiated to leave every other tie in place for potential wagon or other use.
The post office name changed from Eagle Salt Works to Leete on December 20, 1899, and operated until January 15, 1912. Salt production continued on a reduced scale into the early 1910s (up to around 1913 in some accounts), with occasional small shipments thereafter, but the site gradually faded as a viable operation.
Post Office Note: Distinction from Leeteville/Ragtown
It is important not to confuse Leete (the salt works site) with Leeteville, a later name used for the historic emigrant stop of Ragtown (along the Carson River, west of Fallon on what is now U.S. Highway 50). In 1895, a post office named Leeteville opened at the old Ragtown site, honoring a different individual—farmer James Leete (whose wife Esther served as postmistress). That post office operated until 1907. Ragtown/Leeteville has its own rich history tied to the California Trail and Forty Mile Desert crossings, but it is a separate location from the railroad-adjacent Leete/Eagle Salt Works in northwestern Churchill County.
Today and Legacy
Leete is now an abandoned ghost town with minimal visible remnants—scattered ruins of buildings or processing structures noted in mid-20th-century accounts, though the site has continued to deteriorate. Drone footage and occasional visitor reports show remnants of the old railroad grade and industrial features in the desert landscape. It is occasionally referenced in lists of Churchill County ghost towns and mining districts but receives far less attention than more dramatic sites like Ragtown or Pony Express stations.
The Eagle Salt Works played a quiet but essential supporting role in Nevada’s mining history, helping sustain the Comstock Lode’s operations by providing a critical industrial mineral. Its rise and fall mirrored broader patterns in the state: discovery tied to railroad expansion, boom tied to mining demand, and decline linked to transportation shifts and economic changes.
Leete stands as a reminder of the industrial infrastructure that underpinned Nevada’s 19th-century silver economy in one of the state’s most remote and arid corners. For visitors interested in Nevada’s ghost towns, it offers a low-key exploration of salt marsh evaporation technology and railroad history in the Great Basin.
Cold Springs Station – Churchill County
Cold Springs Station, located in Churchill County, Nevada, along U.S. Highway 50 (known as the “Loneliest Road in America”), played a key role in the short-lived but legendary Pony Express mail service and the subsequent Overland Stage and telegraph lines of the early 1860s. The site, near the base of the Desatoya Mountains and about 60 miles east of Fallon or 50 miles west of Austin, features well-preserved stone ruins. It is managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) as part of the Pony Express National Historic Trail and was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1978.
Background and Establishment
In the late 1850s, the push for faster transcontinental communication and mail service across the American West led to the creation of new routes. Captain J.H. Simpson of the U.S. Corps of Topographical Engineers surveyed a more direct central route in 1859, reducing the distance by about 150 miles compared to southern paths. This Simpson route became the foundation for stations including one at Cold Springs (sometimes referred to as Rock Creek due to the nearby seasonal stream or creek).
In March 1860, Bolivar Roberts (superintendent) and J.G. Kelly, along with their construction crew, built the original Cold Springs Pony Express Station for the Central Overland California and Pikes Peak Express Company (C.O.C. & P.P.). The station went into operation in early April 1860 as a relay point where riders could change horses and rest briefly. It served as a “home station” in some accounts, with facilities for keepers, horses, and basic lodging. Stone construction provided durability in the harsh Great Basin desert environment.
The Pony Express Era and Conflict (1860)
The Pony Express operated from April 1860 to October 1861, carrying mail between St. Joseph, Missouri, and Sacramento, California, in about 10 days. Cold Springs was one of roughly 150–190 stations along the route, spaced 10–15 miles apart for horse changes.
In May 1860, shortly after opening, the station faced violence amid tensions with local Paiute (and possibly other Native American groups) during the Pyramid Lake War. Attackers killed the station keeper, looted horses and supplies, and burned parts of the station. They raided the site again weeks later. The station was later fortified with gunports for defense.
Famous rider Robert “Pony Bob” Haslam reportedly discovered the aftermath during one of his legendary long rides (sometimes credited as the longest round-trip in Pony Express history), continuing onward despite the dangers. Accounts of rider deaths in the region vary, with some possibly conflated, but the incident highlighted the risks faced by station keepers and riders in remote areas.
British traveler Sir Richard Francis Burton visited on October 15, 1860, and described the station unflatteringly as “a wretched place, half built and wholly unroofed,” reflecting the rudimentary and often unfinished conditions at many frontier outposts.
Transition to Overland Stage and Telegraph (1861 onward)
The Pony Express ended in October 1861 after the completion of the transcontinental telegraph, which rendered horse-based mail obsolete. The Overland Mail & Stage Company (operated by John Butterfield and later Wells, Fargo & Company) shifted to the central route due to Civil War disruptions on southern paths. A new or modified station (sometimes called Cold Springs No. 2 or the Rock Creek Stage Station) was established nearby, west of the original Pony Express site, around July 1861 to better serve stagecoach traffic. This included passenger and freight services, blacksmithing, and wagon repairs.
The Overland Telegraph also passed through the area, with a repeater and maintenance station (Rock Creek Telegraph Station) built nearby on the north side of the highway. This supported rapid communication across the continent. The stage line continued operations into the late 1860s (until about 1869 in some references).
Multiple Sites at Cold Springs
The “Cold Springs” designation refers to at least three related but distinct historic sites in close proximity:
- Original Pony Express Station (1860): Stone ruins south of US 50, accessible via a short hiking trail (about 1–1.5 miles) from a trailhead with interpretive signs and a vault toilet. The ruins include thick stone walls, windows, gunports, a fireplace, and corral remnants. It is one of the best-preserved Pony Express stations.
- Overland Stage Station (ca. 1861): Ruins north of the highway, associated with the Butterfield/Wells Fargo line.
- Telegraph Repeater Station: Nearby ruins for line maintenance.
A modern Cold Springs Station Resort (restaurant, motel, RV park) sits nearby along the highway, offering visitors a place to eat (including a “Pony Bob” burger) and view memorabilia.
Nevada State Historic Marker 83
Rock Creek was an important stagecoach stop on the Overland Mail & Stage Company’s historic line along the Simpson route between Salt Lake City and Genoa, Nevada, which was operated by John Butterfield (1861-1 866) and later Wells, Fargo & Company (1866-1869). Fresh horses, blacksmith services, and wagon-repair facilities were available here.
The Pony Express constructed the Cold Springs station in 1860 on the sagebrush bench eastward across the highway.
To the north are the ruins of a telegraph repeater and maintenance station which serviced this segment of the transcontinental line, which was completed between Sacramento and Omaha in 1861. The line was abandoned in August 1869. The coming of the transcontinental railroad and its parallel telegraph line along the Humboldt River to the north spelled the demise of both the telegraph line and the stage route here.
STATE HISTORICAL MARKER NO. 83
STATE HISTORIC PRESERVATION OFFICE
AUSTIN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
Preservation and Today
The Pony Express station ruins remain intact enough to show original features, protected by fencing and interpretive signage from the BLM and Nevada State Historic Preservation Office (including Nevada Historical Marker No. 83 for Rock Creek/Cold Springs Station). The site is part of broader historic trails, including the Pony Express National Historic Trail. Visitors can hike to the ruins, though climbing on structures is discouraged for preservation.
The remote desert setting evokes the isolation and challenges of 19th-century overland travel. Nearby attractions include other Pony Express sites like Sand Springs (about 34 miles west) and remnants of mining activity in the region.
Cold Springs Station exemplifies the rapid evolution of Western transportation and communication in the 1860s—from horseback mail to stagecoaches and telegraph wires—amid conflicts with Native Americans, the push for continental unity, and the harsh realities of the Great Basin frontier. Its surviving ruins provide a tangible link to this pivotal era in American history.