Tag: Arizona

Arizona, located in the southwestern region of the United States, is renowned for its diverse landscapes and cultural richness. Home to iconic natural wonders such as the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, and the red rocks of Sedona, Arizona offers a dramatic and varied terrain that ranges from arid deserts to pine-covered mountains. The state’s climate is typically characterized by hot summers and mild winters, with the southern parts being desert-like while the northern regions experience a more temperate climate. Arizona is also rich in Native American history, with numerous tribes such as the Navajo, Hopi, and Apache having deep roots in the region. The state’s cities, including Phoenix and Tucson, blend modern urban life with a strong appreciation for the natural environment and cultural heritage. Arizona’s economy thrives on tourism, technology, and agriculture, making it a dynamic and multifaceted state.

Horseshoe Bend

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Horseshoe Bend is a stunning geological formation located on the Colorado River, just south of Page, Arizona. This iconic meander, carved over millennia by the river’s persistent flow, forms a dramatic, U-shaped loop that encircles a towering rock outcrop.

Horseshoe Bend is a stunning geological formation located on the Colorado River, just south of Page, Arizona. This iconic meander, carved over millennia by the river’s persistent flow, forms a dramatic, U-shaped loop that encircles a towering rock outcrop. Situated within the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, it offers breathtaking views from a steep, 1,000-foot (300-meter) cliff overlooking the emerald-green waters below, framed by rugged, reddish desert cliffs. The overlook is accessible via a short, 1.5-mile round-trip hike from a parking area off U.S. Route 89, making it a popular destination for visitors to northern Arizona. The site is renowned for its striking beauty, especially at sunrise or sunset when the light enhances the vibrant colors of the canyon and river. Horseshoe Bend attracts photographers, nature enthusiasts, and tourists, drawing over two million visitors annually, though its popularity has led to increased management efforts to protect the fragile desert environment. Always stay on designated trails and respect safety barriers due to the sheer drop.

Horseshoe Bend, located near Page, Arizona, is a stunning example of a geological phenomenon known as a meander, where a river curves dramatically, creating a near-circular loop that resembles the shape of a horseshoe. This iconic feature along the Colorado River showcases the intricate interplay of geological processes, water flow, and time. Below is a detailed description of how rivers form bends like Horseshoe Bend, exploring the processes, conditions, and forces involved.

What is a Meander?

A meander is a sinuous, looping bend in a river’s course, often formed in relatively flat or gently sloping landscapes. Unlike straight river channels, which are rare in nature, meanders develop as a river seeks the path of least resistance across a landscape, eroding and depositing sediment in a dynamic process. Horseshoe Bend is an entrenched meander, meaning it is deeply incised into the bedrock, creating a dramatic, steep-walled canyon around the river’s curve.

Formation of Meanders

The formation of river bends like Horseshoe Bend involves several key processes, driven by the interaction of water flow, sediment transport, and the geological characteristics of the landscape.

Initial River Flow and Instability

Rivers naturally develop small irregularities in their channels due to variations in the terrain, such as slight depressions, obstacles like rocks or vegetation, or differences in soil and rock resistance. These irregularities disrupt the river’s flow, causing water to move faster on one side of the channel than the other. This differential flow sets the stage for meander development:

  • Faster Flow on the Outside: Water moves more quickly along the outer edge of a developing bend due to centrifugal force, much like a car taking a curve. This faster flow erodes the outer bank, carving it away.
  • Slower Flow on the Inside: On the inner side of the bend, water slows down, allowing sediment to settle and form a depositional feature called a point bar.

This erosion on the outer bank and deposition on the inner bank amplify the bend over time, causing the river to curve more dramatically.

Feedback Loop of Erosion and Deposition

As the river continues to flow, the meander grows through a self-reinforcing feedback loop:

  • The faster-moving water on the outer bank erodes material, deepening and widening the curve.
  • The eroded sediment is carried downstream and deposited on the inner bank, where the flow is slower, building up the point bar.
  • This process causes the meander to migrate laterally across the floodplain, with the bend becoming more pronounced.

Role of Sediment and Flow Dynamics

The type and amount of sediment a river carries influence meander formation. Rivers with a high sediment load, like the Colorado River, can deposit significant material on point bars, which helps stabilize the inner curve. Meanwhile, the river’s velocity and volume determine its erosive power. Seasonal variations, such as snowmelt or heavy rains, can increase the river’s flow, accelerating erosion and reshaping the meander.

Entrenched Meanders and Horseshoe Bend

The Colorado River Gorge cuts into the bedrock at the Horseshow Bend
The Colorado River Gorge cuts into the bedrock at the Horseshow Bend

Horseshoe Bend is not a typical meander found on a flat floodplain but an entrenched meander, which forms when a river cuts deeply into bedrock. This process is particularly pronounced in the Colorado Plateau, where Horseshoe Bend is located. Here’s how it happens:

Uplift of the Colorado Plateau

The Colorado Plateau, a region of relatively flat-lying sedimentary rocks, has been uplifted over millions of years due to tectonic forces. As the plateau rose, the Colorado River, which was already flowing across the region, began to incise downward into the bedrock to maintain its course. This process is called downcutting.

Preservation of Meander Shape

As the river cut downward, it retained the sinuous meander pattern it had developed on a flatter landscape millions of years ago. Instead of eroding laterally across a floodplain (as meanders typically do), the river eroded vertically into the resistant sandstone of the Navajo Formation, creating steep canyon walls. This results in an entrenched meander, where the river’s looping path is preserved but now confined within a deep, narrow canyon.

Geological Context of Horseshoe Bend

At Horseshoe Bend, the Colorado River has carved a canyon approximately 1,000 feet (300 meters) deep into the Glen Canyon Group, primarily composed of Navajo Sandstone. The river’s path forms a near-perfect U-shape, with the water flowing around a central rock promontory. The steep, vertical walls of the canyon highlight the river’s erosive power and the resistance of the surrounding rock, which prevents significant lateral migration of the meander.

Specific Features of Horseshoe Bend

Horseshoe Bend’s dramatic appearance is the result of several unique factors:

  • Geological Setting: The Navajo Sandstone, a thick layer of cross-bedded sandstone formed from ancient desert dunes, is highly resistant to erosion. This resistance allows the canyon walls to remain steep and well-defined, enhancing the visual impact of the bend.
  • River Dynamics: The Colorado River carries a significant sediment load, including sand and gravel, which aids in both erosion (by scouring the bedrock) and deposition (building point bars). The river’s high flow during spring snowmelt or after heavy rains increases its erosive capacity.
  • Time Scale: The formation of Horseshoe Bend has taken millions of years. The Colorado River began incising into the Colorado Plateau around 5–6 million years ago, following regional uplift. The meander itself likely began forming much earlier, when the river flowed across a flatter landscape, and was later entrenched as the plateau rose.

Ongoing Evolution of Meanders

Meanders like Horseshoe Bend are not static; they continue to evolve over time:

  • Meander Migration: Although entrenched meanders are constrained by bedrock, slow lateral erosion can still occur, causing the bend to shift slightly over geological time.
  • Neck Cutoff: In some cases, a meander can become so tight that the river erodes through the narrow neck of land separating two parts of the loop, forming a cutoff and abandoning the meander as an oxbow lake. However, at Horseshoe Bend, the resistant bedrock makes a cutoff unlikely in the near future.
  • Canyon Deepening: The Colorado River continues to downcut, deepening the canyon and making the walls of Horseshoe Bend even more dramatic over time.

Environmental and Human Factors

  • Climate and Water Flow: The arid climate of northern Arizona limits vegetation, which reduces bank stabilization and allows the river to erode the bedrock more freely. Human interventions, such as the construction of Glen Canyon Dam upstream, have altered the Colorado River’s flow and sediment transport, potentially affecting the rate of erosion at Horseshoe Bend.
  • Tourism and Preservation: Horseshoe Bend is a popular tourist destination, attracting millions of visitors annually. The overlook, perched 4,200 feet above sea level, offers a breathtaking view of the 270-degree river bend below. Efforts to manage tourism, such as designated trails and parking areas, help protect the fragile desert environment and prevent erosion of the canyon rim.

Why Horseshoe Bend is Unique

Horseshoe Bend stands out due to its combination of geological, hydrological, and aesthetic factors:

  • Scale and Symmetry: The near-perfect U-shape and the sheer scale of the canyon (1,000 feet deep and 0.6 miles wide at the bend) make it visually striking.
  • Contrast: The emerald-green waters of the Colorado River contrast vividly with the red and orange hues of the Navajo Sandstone, creating a photogenic landscape.
  • Geological Story: Horseshoe Bend tells a story of millions of years of uplift, erosion, and river dynamics, offering a window into the geological history of the Colorado Plateau.

Conclusion

The formation of river bends like Horseshoe Bend is a testament to the power of water, time, and geological processes. Starting as subtle curves in a river’s path, meanders grow through the interplay of erosion and deposition, amplified by the river’s flow and the landscape’s characteristics. At Horseshoe Bend, the Colorado River’s entrenched meander, carved into resistant Navajo Sandstone, creates a dramatic and iconic feature. This natural wonder continues to evolve, shaped by the relentless flow of the river and the geological forces of the Colorado Plateau, captivating visitors with its beauty and offering geologists a striking example of the Earth’s dynamic processes.

Mary Edith Fly

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Mary Edith “Mollie” Fly (c. 1847–1925) was a pioneering American photographer who, with her husband Camillus “Buck” Fly, documented life in Tombstone, Arizona, during its 1880s silver-mining boom. Born in the U.S. and raised in San Francisco, she married Buck in 1879 and moved to Tombstone, where they established Fly’s Photography Gallery. Mollie managed the studio and boarding house, taking portraits of residents while Buck captured historic images, including Geronimo’s 1886 surrender. Despite personal challenges, including Buck’s alcoholism and their separations, Mollie ran the studio solo after his 1901 death until 1912. She donated their negatives to the Smithsonian and retired to Los Angeles. Inducted into the Arizona Women’s Hall of Fame in 1989, Mollie’s work preserved a vivid record of Tombstone’s frontier era.

Mary ("Mollie") Goodrich Fly was a photographer who married photographer C.S. Fly in San Francisco. They arrived in Tombstone, Arizona Territory in December 1879 where they established a photography business and boarding house.
Mary (“Mollie”) Goodrich Fly was a photographer who married photographer C.S. Fly in San Francisco. They arrived in Tombstone, Arizona Territory in December 1879 where they established a photography business and boarding house.

Early Life and Background

Mary Edith McKie, known as Mollie Fly, was born around 1847, likely in the United States, though details of her early life remain scarce. In the late 1850s, her family relocated to San Francisco, California, where she spent her formative years. Little is documented about her education or how she acquired her photographic skills, a rarity for women in the mid-19th century. Mollie married twice; her first marriage to Samuel D. Goodrich ended in divorce after two years. In 1879, she married Camillus Sidney “Buck” Fly, a photographer, in San Francisco, marking the beginning of their shared professional and personal journey. The couple later adopted a daughter, Kitty Fly.

Arrival in Tombstone and Establishment of Fly’s Photography Gallery

C. S. Fly's Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona
C. S. Fly’s Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona

In December 1879, Mollie and Buck arrived in Tombstone, Arizona Territory, during its silver-mining boom, when the town was rapidly growing into one of the American frontier’s last boomtowns. They initially set up a temporary photography studio in a tent, capitalizing on the influx of miners, merchants, and adventurers. By July 1880, they had constructed a 12-room boarding house at 312 Fremont Street, which included their permanent studio, known as Fly’s Photography Gallery, at the back. Mollie played a pivotal role in managing both the boarding house and the studio, especially when Buck was away on photographic expeditions. As one of the few female photographers of the era, she took studio portraits for 35 cents each, capturing the diverse faces of Tombstone’s residents, from miners to merchants.

Role in Recording Tombstone’s Events

Mollie’s contributions to documenting Tombstone’s history were significant, though often overshadowed by her husband’s more publicized work. The Flys’ studio was strategically located near the site of the infamous Gunfight at the O.K. Corral on October 26, 1881, one of the most iconic events in Old West history. Buck was an eyewitness to the shootout, which occurred just outside their studio, and reportedly disarmed a dying Billy Clanton while armed with a Henry rifle. Curiously, no photographs of the gunfight’s aftermath were taken, possibly due to threats from the Earp faction, though Mollie and Buck’s studio captured portraits of many key figures in Tombstone, including founder Ed Schieffelin and surgeon Dr. George E. Goodfellow.

While Buck gained recognition for his photojournalistic work, including the only known images of Geronimo’s surrender in 1886, Mollie ensured the studio’s continuity. She managed operations during Buck’s absences, producing photographic postcards, such as one captioned “Arizona Prospectors, Tombstone,” which offered rare glimpses into the town’s daily life. Her work, though less credited, helped preserve the visual record of a bustling frontier town marked by saloons, stagecoach robberies, and mining ventures.

Challenges and Resilience

The Flys’ personal and professional lives were fraught with challenges. Buck’s heavy drinking led to their temporary separation in 1887, and by the late 1880s, Tombstone’s economy declined as silver prices fell and mines flooded. In 1893, the couple attempted to open a new studio in Phoenix, but the venture failed, prompting their return to Tombstone a year later. They separated again in the late 1890s, with Buck establishing a studio in Bisbee, Arizona, where a fire at the Phelps Dodge Mercantile Company warehouse destroyed many of their glass-plate negatives. After Buck’s death in Bisbee in 1901, Mollie ran the Tombstone studio solo for another decade, demonstrating remarkable resilience. In 1905, she published a collection of Buck’s photographs, Scenes in Geronimo’s Camp: The Apache Outlaw and Murderer, preserving his historic images of Geronimo’s surrender.

Later Life and Legacy

In 1912, Mollie retired after a second fire destroyed her studio in Tombstone in 1915. Recognizing the historical value of their work, she donated the surviving negatives to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. She then moved to Los Angeles, California, where she lived until her death in 1925. Mollie’s contributions as a pioneering female photographer were posthumously honored in 1989 when she was inducted into the Arizona Women’s Hall of Fame.

C. S. Fly's Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona on fire 1912, Photograph by Mary "Mollie" Fly
C. S. Fly’s Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona on fire 1912, Photograph by Mary “Mollie” Fly

Mollie Fly’s role in recording Tombstone’s events was integral to preserving the town’s legacy as “The Town Too Tough to Die.” Through her management of Fly’s Photography Gallery and her own photographic work, she captured the essence of a volatile frontier era, contributing to one of the most comprehensive pictorial records of early Tombstone. Her perseverance as a woman in a male-dominated field and her dedication to her craft ensure her place as a significant figure in Arizona’s history.

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The Disappearance of Glen and Bessie Hyde

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In the autumn of 1928, newlyweds Glen and Bessie Hyde embarked on an ambitious honeymoon adventure, aiming to navigate the treacherous rapids of the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. Their goal was twofold: to set a speed record for the journey and to make Bessie the first documented woman to complete the perilous trip. Yet, the couple vanished without a trace, leaving behind a mystery that has captivated historians, adventurers, and storytellers for nearly a century.

Hyde Honeymoon Scow as found by searchers, Near Diamond Creek. 1928. Photo by NPS
Hyde Honeymoon Scow as found by searchers, Near Diamond Creek. 1928. Photo by NPS

The Adventurous Newlyweds

Glen Rollin Hyde, born December 9, 1898, was a farmer from Twin Falls, Idaho, with a passion for river running. He had experience navigating the Salmon and Snake Rivers in Idaho alongside an experienced river runner, “Cap” Guleke, in 1926, and had undertaken a six-month canoe trip through British Columbia and the Pacific Northwest in 1919. Bessie Louise Haley, born December 29, 1905, in Parkersburg, West Virginia, was a bohemian artist and divorcee with a flair for theater and poetry. The couple met in 1927 aboard a passenger ship bound for Los Angeles and married on April 10, 1928, just one day after Bessie’s divorce from her first husband was finalized.

Inspired by the era’s fascination with daring feats—think Charles Lindbergh’s transatlantic flight or George Mallory’s Everest expedition—the Hydes saw their journey as a path to fame and fortune. Glen crafted a 20-foot wooden sweep scow, named “Rain-in-the-Face,” a flat-bottomed vessel designed for river travel but ill-suited for the Grand Canyon’s violent rapids. Bessie, despite her lack of river-running experience, embraced the adventure, hoping to cement her place in history.

The Journey Begins

On October 20, 1928, the Hydes launched their scow from Green River, Utah, embarking on a journey down the Green and Colorado Rivers toward Needles, California. The couple planned to complete the trip in record time, with Bessie documenting their progress in a journal and with a camera. Their early journey was largely successful, navigating major rapids through Labyrinth, Stillwater, and Cataract Canyons without significant incident, though Glen had once fallen out of the boat, underscoring the river’s dangers.

By mid-November, the Hydes had reached the Grand Canyon, roughly halfway through their journey. On November 15, they hiked the Bright Angel Trail to the South Rim to restock supplies at Grand Canyon Village. There, they visited the studio of famed photographer Emery Kolb, a veteran river runner who had navigated the Colorado twice. Kolb noted Bessie’s apparent exhaustion and apprehension, recalling her comment to his young daughter about her dress: “I wonder if I shall ever wear pretty shoes again.” Kolb offered the couple life jackets and even a place to stay for the winter, but Glen, determined to maintain their schedule, declined both.

The Hydes were last seen on November 18, 1928, as they departed from Hermit Rapid, accompanied briefly by Adolph G. Sutro, a photographer who rode with them for a day before hiking out at Hermit Creek. Sutro may have been the last person to see them alive.

The Disappearance

The Hydes were expected to arrive in Needles by December 6, 1928, but they never appeared. Alarmed, Glen’s father, Rollin Hyde, initiated a search before the couple was officially overdue. On December 19, a search plane spotted their scow near river mile 237, upright and intact, with supplies securely strapped in. Emery Kolb and his brother Ellsworth joined the search, recovering the boat, which contained Bessie’s journal, a camera, and other belongings. The journal’s final entry, dated November 30, indicated the couple had reached Diamond Creek, near river mile 226, and had cleared the 231 Mile Rapid. A photograph from the camera, likely taken around November 27 near river mile 165, provided the last visual evidence of their journey.

HYDE HONEYMOON SCOW AS FOUND BY SEARCHERS, NEAR DIAMOND CREEK. 1928.

Despite extensive searches, no trace of Glen or Bessie was found. The pristine condition of the boat, with no signs of capsizing or damage, deepened the mystery. Historian Otis R. Marston, a noted Colorado River expert, suggested the couple likely perished in the heavy rapids near mile 232, where submerged granite rocks had damaged or capsized numerous boats. Yet, the absence of bodies or wreckage left room for speculation.

Theories and Legends

The Hydes’ disappearance sparked a flurry of theories, fueled by the romantic allure of their honeymoon adventure and the lack of conclusive evidence. The most straightforward explanation, supported by Marston and others, is that the couple drowned after their scow hit treacherous rapids, their bodies swept away by the river’s currents. The absence of life jackets and the unwieldy nature of their homemade scow lend credence to this theory.

However, alternative narratives have persisted. Some speculated that Bessie, weary of the journey and possibly facing an abusive husband, killed Glen and escaped the canyon. This theory gained traction in 1971 when an elderly woman on a commercial rafting trip claimed to be Bessie, alleging she had stabbed Glen during a quarrel and hiked out to start a new life. She later recanted, admitting the story was fabricated, but the tale lingered.

Another theory linked Bessie to Georgie Clark, a famed river runner who died in 1992. After Clark’s death, friends found a copy of the Hydes’ marriage certificate and a pistol among her possessions, and her birth name was revealed to be Bessie DeRoss. However, Clark’s well-documented life, including her marriage and childbirth in 1928, disproves this connection.

In 1976, skeletal remains with a bullet hole in the skull were discovered on Emery Kolb’s property, raising suspicions of foul play. Some theorized Kolb, who had interacted with the Hydes, might have been involved. Forensic analysis later determined the remains belonged to a younger man who likely died in the 1970s, ruling out a connection to Glen.

A Lasting Mystery

The disappearance of Glen and Bessie Hyde remains one of the Grand Canyon’s most enduring enigmas. Their story has inspired books, such as Brad Dimock’s Sunk Without a Sound, a novel by Lisa Michaels, and episodes of Unsolved Mysteries and various podcasts. The couple’s ambition, the haunting remark about “pretty shoes,” and the pristine state of their abandoned scow continue to captivate imaginations.

Whether they succumbed to the river’s fury, met with foul play, or orchestrated an escape, the fate of Glen and Bessie Hyde remains unknown. Their tale is a poignant reminder of the Grand Canyon’s beauty and danger, a place where nature can swallow even the boldest adventurers without a trace. As river runners recount their story around campfires, the Hydes’ legacy endures as a haunting chapter in the annals of American exploration.

Lees Ferry Colorado River Crossing

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Lees Ferry, a remote site along the Colorado River in northern Arizona, holds a pivotal place in American history as a vital crossing point, a gateway to exploration, and a launchpad for modern river running. Situated at the confluence of the Paria and Colorado Rivers, just downstream from Glen Canyon and upstream from the Grand Canyon, Lees Ferry has served as a geographic and cultural hinge for centuries, bridging Native American trails, Mormon settlement, and modern adventure.

Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. The boat is relatively small. Five people and two horses or mules are on board. The ferry is guided by wires spanning the river. Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. John D. Lee established the first ferry at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria rivers in the 1870s. Ferries operated there until Navajo Bridge opened in 1929.
Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. The boat is relatively small. Five people and two horses or mules are on board. The ferry is guided by wires spanning the river. Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. John D. Lee established the first ferry at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria rivers in the 1870s. Ferries operated there until Navajo Bridge opened in 1929.

Early History and Native American Presence

Long before European settlers arrived, the area around Lees Ferry was a crossing point for Native American tribes, including the Ancestral Puebloans, Navajo, and Paiute. The site’s relatively calm waters and accessible riverbanks made it a natural ford for foot traffic and trade routes across the rugged Colorado Plateau. Archaeological evidence suggests human activity in the region dating back thousands of years, with petroglyphs and artifacts attesting to its significance.

The Colorado River, however, was a formidable barrier, with its steep canyons and turbulent rapids. Lees Ferry stood out as one of the few locations where the river could be crossed safely, earning it a place in the region’s cultural and economic landscape.

John D. Lee and the Mormon Era

John D Lee
John D Lee

Lees Ferry derives its name from John Doyle Lee, a prominent and controversial figure in the history of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church). Born in 1812, Lee was a devout Mormon pioneer who played a significant role in the church’s westward expansion. In 1871, following his excommunication for his involvement in the 1857 Mountain Meadows Massacre, Lee was sent by church leader Brigham Young to establish a ferry service at the site to facilitate Mormon settlement in Arizona.

Lee arrived with two of his wives, Emma and Ann, and several children, building a homestead known as Lonely Dell near the confluence of the Paria and Colorado Rivers. In 1872, he constructed a rudimentary ferry—a flatboat guided by ropes—capable of carrying wagons, livestock, and people across the river. The ferry became a critical link on the “Honeymoon Trail,” a route used by Mormon couples traveling from Arizona settlements to the temple in St. George, Utah, for marriage ceremonies. Lee operated the ferry until his arrest in 1874 for his role in the Mountain Meadows Massacre. He was executed in 1877, but his wife Emma continued running the ferry until 1879.

The ferry operation passed through several hands, including the LDS Church and private operators, until 1928, when it was rendered obsolete by the completion of the Navajo Bridge, located a few miles downstream. The bridge, opened in 1929, provided a more reliable crossing, marking the end of the ferry’s practical necessity.

Exploration and Scientific Significance

Lees Ferry’s strategic location made it a key staging point for early exploration of the Colorado River and the Grand Canyon. In 1869, John Wesley Powell, a one-armed Civil War veteran and geologist, launched his historic expedition down the Green and Colorado Rivers from Green River, Wyoming, passing through Lees Ferry en route to the Grand Canyon. Powell’s 1871–1872 expedition again used the site as a critical resupply point, cementing its role in the mapping and scientific study of the American Southwest.

First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. - E. 0. Beaman - War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 - ca. 1874)
First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. – E. 0. Beaman – War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 – ca. 1874)

The U.S. Geological Survey later designated Lees Ferry as the official division point between the Upper and Lower Colorado River Basins, a demarcation still used in water management today. The site’s consistent flow and accessibility made it ideal for gauging stations, which have monitored the river’s flow since the early 20th century, providing critical data for dam construction and water allocation in the arid West.

The Rise of River Running

In the 20th century, Lees Ferry transformed into the primary launch point for recreational and commercial river trips through the Grand Canyon. Its gentle waters and proximity to Marble Canyon make it an ideal starting point for navigating the Grand Canyon’s rapids. The site gained fame in the 1920s during the ill-fated honeymoon journey of Glen and Bessie Hyde, who launched their homemade scow from Lees Ferry in 1928, only to vanish downstream, leaving behind one of the canyon’s enduring mysteries.

By the mid-20th century, river running grew in popularity, spurred by figures like Norman Nevills, who pioneered commercial rafting trips, and Georgie Clark, who became a legendary river guide. Today, Lees Ferry is the starting point for thousands of annual river trips, ranging from half-day floats to multi-week expeditions through the Grand Canyon. The National Park Service tightly regulates these trips, with permits highly sought after due to the area’s scenic beauty and challenging rapids.

Lees Ferry Today

Now part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Lees Ferry is a designated historic site, with remnants of its past preserved for visitors. Lonely Dell, the original homestead, includes restored buildings, an orchard, and a small cemetery, offering a glimpse into the harsh life of early settlers. The ferry site itself features a boat launch, camping facilities, and interpretive displays about its history.

Lees Ferry also attracts anglers, drawn to its world-class trout fishery below Glen Canyon Dam, established after the dam’s completion in 1963 altered the river’s ecology. The clear, cold waters released from the dam create ideal conditions for rainbow trout, making the stretch between the dam and Lees Ferry a popular destination.

A Legacy of Connection

Lees Ferry’s significance lies in its role as a crossroads—geographic, cultural, and historical. From Native American trails to Mormon pioneers, from Powell’s daring expeditions to modern adventurers, the site has witnessed the unfolding of the American West. Its tranquil setting belies the challenges faced by those who crossed its waters or braved the canyons beyond. Today, as river runners launch from its shores and historians reflect on its past, Lees Ferry remains a testament to human resilience and the enduring allure of the Colorado River.

Emery Clifford Kolb

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Emery Clifford Kolb
Emery Clifford Kolb

Emery Clifford Kolb (April 15, 1881 – December 11, 1976) was a pioneering photographer, filmmaker, and adventurer whose work immortalized the Grand Canyon and shaped its early tourism industry. Born in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, to Edward and Ella Kolb, Emery was the younger brother of Ellsworth Leonardson Kolb, with whom he formed a legendary partnership. His technical prowess, relentless determination, and lifelong dedication to the canyon made him a central figure in documenting its natural splendor. This article explores Emery’s life, his contributions to photography and Grand Canyon tourism, and his role in the historic 1911–1912 Colorado River expedition, drawing from historical accounts.

Early Life and Arrival at the Grand Canyon

Emery Kolb grew up in Pittsburgh, where his early exposure to photography sparked a lifelong passion. Unlike his older brother Ellsworth, who was drawn to adventure, Emery was intense, methodical, and focused on the technical craft of photography. In 1902, at age 21, he joined Ellsworth at the Grand Canyon’s South Rim, lured by his brother’s tales of opportunity at the Bright Angel Hotel. The brothers set up a makeshift photography business at the head of the Bright Angel Trail, capturing images of tourists descending into the canyon on muleback. Operating out of a tent, they developed photos in a crude darkroom—a blanket-covered prospector’s hole—often racing nine miles to Indian Garden for spring water to process their negatives.

Their early years were marked by logistical challenges, including hauling water from distant sources and competing with larger tourism enterprises backed by the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway. Emery’s technical expertise complemented Ellsworth’s charisma, enabling them to carve out a niche in the burgeoning tourism industry. By 1904, they built the Kolb Studio, a modest structure on the South Rim overlooking the Bright Angel Trail, which served as their home, studio, and later a theater for their films. This iconic building, now on the National Register of Historic Places, became a cornerstone of Grand Canyon tourism.

The Kolb Studio and Photographic Legacy

The Kolb Studio was the heart of the brothers’ enterprise, where Emery’s photographic skills shone. While Ellsworth handled much of the fieldwork, Emery focused on developing and printing photographs, perfecting techniques to capture the canyon’s dramatic landscapes and the faces of early visitors. Their business model was innovative: they photographed tourists at the trailhead, developed prints during the day, and sold them to returning mule riders, capitalizing on the thrill of the canyon experience. Emery’s meticulous attention to detail ensured high-quality images that became cherished mementos, preserving the early history of Grand Canyon tourism.

The studio grew over the years, expanding into a five-story structure with a small auditorium for film screenings. Emery’s photography not only documented the canyon’s beauty but also its cultural significance, capturing Native American communities, early explorers, and the evolving infrastructure of the park. His archive, now housed at Northern Arizona University’s Cline Library, remains a vital resource for historians. Despite resistance from railroad companies and government entities, Emery’s tenacity helped the brothers maintain control of their studio against corporate pressures, solidifying their place in the canyon’s history.

The 1911–1912 Colorado River Expedition

Emery’s most famous achievement was the 1911–1912 expedition down the Green and Colorado Rivers, undertaken with Ellsworth to produce the first motion pictures of the Colorado River’s rapids. Starting on September 8, 1911, in Green River, Wyoming, the brothers navigated 1,100 miles to Needles, California, in two wooden Galloway-type skiffs. The 101-day journey was grueling, with 365 major rapids, freezing waters, and near-disasters, including flooded boats and a deserting assistant. Joined by miner Bert Lauzon for the final leg, they completed the trip on January 18, 1912, capturing groundbreaking footage with a new motion-picture camera.

Emery’s role was critical: he operated the camera, often filming from precarious positions on cliffs or boats, and maintained the equipment under harsh conditions. The resulting film, The Grand Canyon Film Show, premiered at the Kolb Studio in 1915 and ran nightly until Emery’s death in 1976, earning the distinction of the longest-running movie in history. Ellsworth’s journal from the trip, supplemented by Emery’s photographs, formed the basis of the 1914 book Through the Grand Canyon from Wyoming to Mexico, published by Macmillan and featured in National Geographic. The book and film brought the canyon’s wild beauty to a global audience, establishing the Kolbs as pioneers of adventure filmmaking.

Later Years and Enduring Impact

In 1924, Ellsworth sold his share of the Kolb Studio to Emery and moved to Los Angeles, leaving Emery to run the business alone. Emery remained at the Grand Canyon, expanding the studio and continuing to photograph mule trains and visitors. He narrated the expedition film nightly, captivating audiences with tales of their river journey. His commitment to the canyon never wavered, even as he faced ongoing battles with the National Park Service and competitors like the Fred Harvey Company. Emery also contributed to the canyon community, serving as a guide, participating in rescues, and documenting its history.

Emery married Blanche Bender in 1921, and their daughter, Edith, was raised at the studio. After Blanche’s death in 1944, Emery continued his work, maintaining the studio as a cultural hub. He died on December 11, 1976, at age 95, and was buried in the Grand Canyon Pioneer Cemetery alongside Ellsworth, who had passed in 1960. Emery’s photographs and films, preserved through his meticulous care, remain a treasure trove for researchers, offering a window into the canyon’s early days.

Legacy

Emery Kolb’s legacy is inseparable from the Grand Canyon itself. His technical mastery and unwavering dedication transformed the Kolb Studio into a cultural landmark, now operated by the Grand Canyon Conservancy as a gallery and bookstore. His photographs and films not only popularized the canyon but also inspired conservation efforts and adventure tourism. Works like Roger Naylor’s The Amazing Kolb Brothers of Grand Canyon and William C. Suran’s biography highlight Emery’s role as a visionary who, alongside Ellsworth, turned a rugged frontier into a national treasure. Through his lens, Emery Kolb captured the soul of the Grand Canyon, leaving a visual legacy that continues to inspire awe and wonder.