Leadfield California – A Death Valley Ghost Town

Leadfield California is a ghost town located in Inyo County and Death Valley National Park and found on the Titus Canyon Trail. The town boom in 1925 and 1926, however, Leadfield is a town that was started on fraud and deceit.

Leadfield Gost Town, Death Valley, California
Leadfield Gost Town, Death Valley, California

According to Legend and an article in Desert Magazine, and shameless promoter C. C. Julian wandered into Titus Canyon and started blasting tunnels. He then discovered lead ore which he purchased and brought down from Tonopah, Nevada. Julian then produced maps and other promotional materials and found investors from the East coast. The town of Leadfield was born and died on the imagination of this one man.

Photograph of an exterior view of the Leadfield Hotel in Death Valley's Titus Canyon, [s.d.]. The hotel is a simple wooden structure with a slanted roof and a rectangular façade. The upper left corner of the façade is missing, revealing the interior of the building. Three large rectangular windows and two doors alternate across the front of the building. There are three people standing on a caved-in porch in front of the hotel. A large rocky mountain rises up behind the hotel. The hotel was part of C. C. Julian's Leadfield boomtown, the hey day of which was in 1925. Photo Credit “University of Southern California. Libraries” and “California Historical Society” as the source. Digitally reproduced by the USC Digital Library.
Photograph of an exterior view of the Leadfield Hotel in Death Valley’s Titus Canyon, [s.d.]. The hotel is a simple wooden structure with a slanted roof and a rectangular façade. The upper left corner of the façade is missing, revealing the interior of the building. Three large rectangular windows and two doors alternate across the front of the building. There are three people standing on a caved-in porch in front of the hotel. A large rocky mountain rises up behind the hotel. The hotel was part of C. C. Julian’s Leadfield boomtown, the hey day of which was in 1925. Photo Credit “University of Southern California. Libraries” and “California Historical Society” as the source. Digitally reproduced by the USC Digital Library.

The truth of the tale is not quite as interesting or spectacular. According the the National Park Service, Leadfield ore was first worked in 1905. During the Bullfrog boom, which took place outside of Beatty, prospectors worked the land looking for the next big hit. In the fall of 1905, nine mine sights were identified and claimed by W. H. Seaman and Curtis Durnford. The ore from these sites was assayed in Rhyolite at $40 per ton. The men bought out a local consortium and the Death Valley Consolidated Mining Company was incorporated which released promotional material and sold shares for 2.5 cents each.

The mine and its ore did produce, however the Death Valley Consolidated Mining Company soon discovered that the expense of hauling the ore to Rhyolite and then the frieght costs to ship the material to smelters further off caused the ore to be not profitable. After six months of operation the Death Valley Colisidated Mining Company disappeared.

C. C. Julian
C. C. Julian

Despite early failures, in March of 1924 three prospectors wandered into the canyon and staked several claims. Ben Chambers, L. Christensen and Frank Metts worked their claims of lead ore for over one year before selling the claims to John Salsberry. Mr. Salsberry saw enough promise to form the Western Lead Mines Company and started to raise capital via stock sales at $0.10 per share. By the end of 1925, the Western Lead Mines Company was working 50 claims in the valley and soon began in invest in infastructure in the form of a compressor plant. A long steep road was constructed for LeadField to the Beatty Highway.

In early 1926, the Western Lead Mines Company build a boarding house and piped in water from a nearby spring. The town of Leadfield was named officially January 30th, 1926. Stock from the Western Lead Mines Company went on sale in January and within a 24 hour period, 40,000 share of stock were sold at $1.57 per share.

In February 1926 it became known to the public that C. C. Julian purchase shares and was now President of Western Lead Mines Company. Almost immediately the California State Corporation Commission began an investigation into the stock sale because a permit was not granted for the stock sale. The promoter went to work, along with several other mine operations, raise interest and money for the town. City plans were filed with Inyo County, however the spectre of investigation loomed.

Julian at the Western Lead Mine located in Leadfield, California - Photo Los Angeles Times
Julian at the Western Lead Mine located in Leadfield, California – Photo Los Angeles Times

Despite the arrival of a post office, investment into the location, and hundreds of feet of tunnel, C. C. Julian was ordered to cease sale of stock by the California State Corporation Commission. Around the same time, the primary tunnel of the Western Lead Mines Company penetrated to the ledge which experts predicted the highest quality ore. This ore was assayed at 2% and far too low for profit considered freight costs.

"The Last Days of C. C. Julian," Los Angeles Times, 29 Sept. 1935
“The Last Days of C. C. Julian,” Los Angeles Times, 29 Sept. 1935

Leadfield and the surrounding mines where gone months later. Mr. Julian was blamed despite the facts that he did not start the venture, there was ore at the location, and he invested money and time towards the venture. Once his Leadfield venture faltered, he moved onto to Oklahoma and was caught up in yet another scam. Julian later fled the country for Shanghai in March of 1933 m where he committed suicide in 1923 after several more failed schemes. Julian was buried in a beggers coffin and his funeral was attended by nine people.

Mr. Julian is responsible for the road through Titus Canyon, which many is a favorite route of visitors every year.

Leadfield Sign, Death Valley, California
Leadfield Sign, Death Valley, California

For a detailed history, the NPS offers a great article.

Leadfield Town Summary

NameLeadfield
LocationInyo County, Death Valley, California
Latitude, Longitude36.8466107,-117.0592307
GNIS1658952
Elevation4000 feet
Newspaper Leadfield Chronicle ( 192?-19?? )
National Register of Historic Places75000221

Further Reading

Leadfield Map

Resources

Aurora Nevada – Mineral County Ghost Town

Aurora, Nevada is a ghost town in Mineral County about twenty eight miles southwest of Hawthorne, near the California border. Aurora is often mentioned as a footnote to larger better preserved town on Bodie, CA located just a few miles away.  Like most unprotected ghost towns today the town site is a just a remnant of its past, having lost much through heavy damage from vandals over the years.

The road leading into Aurora was once a 4×4 road and difficult to make it back into Aurora. Often the winter snows and spring rains rutted out the road leading to the town.

Aurora, CA photograph from the 1930's
Aurora, CA photograph from the 1930’s

Aurora was founded in 1860 by J.M Corey, James N Braley, and E.R Hicks while prospecting south west towards Mono Lake.  The “Eureka” moment came when gold and silver quartz was found while searching for water and game. Soon the word was out, and a migration of miners came up from Monoville and several other California towns.  Like many boom towns, Auroras population reach about 1,400 by 1861 and just one year later was almost 6,000.  Aurora boaster an 8 position stamp mill and the ore was hauled from the town via Wells, Fargo and Company. The town was constructed mainly from brick, as wood is a scare and finite resource in the area.

Aurora, Nevada as it existed in the 1800s
Aurora, Nevada as it existed in the 1800s

The Esmeralda Star was the town paper when the town reach is maximum population of 10,000. Life is town was rough and conditions were very harsh.   The territories of both California and Nevada tried to lay claim to the newly prized Aurora and in the spring of 1861, Mono County was founded by California, which fixed the seat of the county in the little town of Aurora.  Not to be outdown, in November of 1861, Nevada setup the head quarters of Esmeralda County in Aurora.  This dual county seat arrangement lasted for two years during which time both California and Nevada maintained two different county and exercised jurisdiction concurrently.

Aurora after 1910, when the town was first connected to electrical power.
Aurora after 1910, when the town was first connected to electrical power.

To settle the issue, Nevada and California jointly commissioned a survey to finally settle the issue and established the location of the border.  During the elections held in September 1863 Aurora had the distinction of voting in two elections.  The Mono County voting was held in the police station and voters could walk over to Armory Hall to vote in the Esmeralda county elections for Nevada.  Three weeks after the election, the survey results came in and Aurora was officially 4 miles inside the state of Nevada.  The Mono County Officials loaded up their records and assets into Wagons and moved the seat to Bodie, CA some 10 miles to the south west.

Samuel Langhorne Clemens September 1-2, 1867, Pera, Constantinople
Samuel Langhorne Clemens September 1-2, 1867, Pera, Constantinople

1862 found a young Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain) in town for several months looking the make his fortune.  During his stay he worked as a laborer in the stamp mill for $10 a week including board.  The young Mr. Clemens quickly gave up mining and sent several lively sketches to the Territorial Enterprise located in Virginia City.  Several weeks later Samual Clemens was hired by the Enterprise where he adopted his pen name, and Mark Twain was born.

Today there is not much standing at Aurora
Today there is not much standing at Aurora

In 1863 Aurora is pictured as a cluster of huts made of stone, sheltered by canvas or tin roofs, with streets of wooden buildings , and many substantial brick structures near the center of town, and uncountable tents and dugouts in the surrounding hils. About 5,000 persons lived in these makeshift shelters and in the 700 houses, and enjoyed the services provided by the hotels , churches, 20 stores, 22 saloons and 16 quartz mills .

National Register of Historic Places Inventory – Nomination Form – July 30, 1974

As with many gold towns, Aurora life was bright and short. Shallow mines could not support the town of 22 saloons and 20 stores and mismanagement and poor investments doomed the small town.  There was virtually no family life in the town. Prostitutes made up over 50% of the female population and by 1870 the gold and silver was gone, and the town soon faltered officially closing the post office in 1897.

A resurgence of Aurora started in 1906 when mining resumed in the area.  A post office was again opened to serve several hundred people, and a weekly called the Aurora Borealis was the paper of record.  During the revitalization of Aurora, the Aurora Consolidated Mining Co. claimed 1.8 million dollars in gold during World War I.  However, in 1919 the post office closed again and the town faded into history.  After World War II much of the brick town was demolished to satisfy the demand for the used brick market in 1946.

Remains of Aurora bricks found deep in the undergrowth.
Remains of Aurora bricks found deep in the undergrowth.

The site of Aurora is all but gone and consisting of little more than a cross roads, a cemetery and a few foundations.

Aurora Town Summary

NameAurora
LocationMineral County, Nevada
Latitude, Longitude38.2871421, -118.9006963
GNIS858760
Elevation7400 feet
Post Office – 1919
NewpapersEsmeralda Star May 17, July 5, Sept 20, 1862; Nov 18, Dec 30, 1863
Aurora Daily Times Nov 27, 28, 30, Dec 1, 9, 11, 12, 1863; July 11, Oct 7, 1864
Esmeralda Daily Union Mar 23, 1864 – Mar 15, 1865; Nov 27, 1867 – Oct 3, 1868
Esmeralda Herald Oct 20, 1877 – July 29, 1882; Aug 18, 1883 – Apr 19, 1884
Aurora Borealis Dec 3, 1905

Aurora Trail Map

Aurora Personalities

Samuel Langhorne Clemens September 1-2, 1867, Pera, Constantinople

Samuel Langhorne Clemens – “Mark Twain”

Before he wrote American classic novels as Mark Twain, Samuel Langhorne Clemens was a miner and newpaper reporter in Mineral County, Nevada. Prior to picking…

Further Reading

Aurora, Nevada 1860-1960: Mining Camp, Frontier City, Ghost Town

This expanded Second Edition of Aurora, Nevada 1860-1960 chronicles the history of one of Nevada’s earliest and most important mining boomtowns. It is a reference-oriented…
Nevada Ghost Towns and Mining Camps - By Stanley W. Paher

Nevada Ghost Towns and Mining Camps

Nevada Ghost Towns and Mining Camps - By Stanley W. Paher Nevada Ghost Towns and Mining Camps is a wonderful book written by Stanley W.…

Resources

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve
Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Photo by James L Rathbun.

Established in 1976, the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve is located just west of Mojave and boasts the most consistent blooms that the California Poppy.  The reserve does not plant or water the flowers, so the timing and abundance of the flowers is solely dependent upon rainfall each year.  The bloom season begins late winter and may last throughout the spring depending upon conditions.  In addition to the poppy, the Reserve also hosts a variety of species including Owl’s Clover, Davy Gilia, Goldfields, Lupine and Cream Cups.

The 1745 acre flower reserve ranges in elevation frim 2600 to 3000 feet in elevations and boasts 7 miles of trails.  There are limited facilities, but the reserve does have some wheel chair access.

The California Poppy the state flower of California.
The California Poppy the state flower of California. Photo by James L Rathbun.

The California Poppy ( Eschscholzia californica ) is a small perennial is typically a short flowering planet which boasts a vibrant orange bloom.  The flower itself grows on top of a sledder stalk and the four petal flower which has a silky texture, appears extremely delicate and vulnerable to the elements.  The flowers open each morning and close in the evening with the cooler air.

A Davey Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies.  Photo by James L Rathbun.
A Davy Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies. Photo by James L Rathbun.

The California Poppy has a large range which included more of California, parts of Oregon, Washington, Nevada, Arizona and Northern Baja California.

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Map

Racetrack Valley

TeaKettle Junction lets you know you are starting to get close to the Racetrack.
TeaKettle Junction lets you know you are starting to get close to the Racetrack.

Racetrack valley is a rough graded road which departs the Ubehebe Crater site and heads south into the desert. The road is rough, but easily passable in a regular car. However, when entering back country areas such as this it is always a good idea to have the insurance of a reliable vehicle, high clearance, four wheel drive, etc…  Do yourself a huge favor and air down your tires if you are properly equipped to air up when the trip is over.

Looking north from the Lippincott Mine towards the Racetrack off in the distance.
Looking north from the Lippincott Mine towards the Racetrack off in the distance.

The racetrack valley road is a 25 miles one way trip to the playa. The road is grated, but can be heavily wash-boarded depending on the time of year, rain fall, etc…

Along the way, there are many side trips and alternate trails to help expand your visit.

As you leave Ubehebe Crater, you will be driving south and gradually gaining elevation. Take your time and enjoy the drive, if you are lucky you may see a big horn sheep herd. The road gradually gains in elevation and climbs through a Joshua Tree Forest.

Once you reach the pass, the road continues to drop in elevation all the way down to the playa. Continue straight through tea kettle junction, and bear left down the valley past the side road to the Lippincott mine, which is a great side trail.

The Racetrack Playa of Death Valley.
The Racetrack Playa of Death Valley.

As you continue past the road to the Lippincott mine the road drops down to the Racetrack Playa itself. The first stop is ‘The Grandstand’ which is an outcropping of rock located in the north west corner of the racetrack. The second stop is the parking area to hike towards the stones. Don’t try to hike to the stones from the first Grandstand parking lot, or you will be hiking significantly further.

The highlight of the trip, is a short hike to the sailing or racing stones. The start of the hike is the parking area at the southern end of the racetrack playa.

Jeeps and Labradors are not allowed on the playa!

To reach the stones hike east from the parking lot across the playa towards the dark stone hillside. It is short FLAT, meaning really FLAT hike towards the stones. Be sure the check the temperatures before you leave, and bring lots of water. This is true with anything you might want to do in Death Valley. Don’t walk on the playa if it is wet or muddy.

The Racing stones.
The Racing stones.

At the end of the 30 miles road there is a small primitive campground for overnight visits. Be sure to check with the National Park Service for regulations of back country camping within the park.

Every racetrack needs a grandstand.
Every racetrack needs a grandstand.

Notoriety

On September 19th, 1969 a Michigan front end loading is found burning along the road near the playa. Apparently, Manson order the machine burned. Park Rangers were deployed to the Racetrack. The rangers followed a set of tire tracked which belonged to a Toyota Land Cruiser which was stolen by Manson. The follow up investigate lead to the arrest of Charles Manson at Barker Ranch on October 12th, 1969.

Racetrack Valley Trail Map

References

The Standard Mill – Bodie, CA

The Standard Mill, also known as the Standard Consolidated Mining Company Mill, was a pivotal element in the history of Bodie, California. The building is one of the most iconic images or Bodie, and dominates the landscape. Located in the Bodie Hills east of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, this mill played a crucial role in the processing of ore from one of the richest gold-mining areas in the American West.

The Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Photograph by James L Rathbun
The Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Formation of the Standard Company

The Standard Company was founded in 1877, quickly becoming one of the most prominent and productive mines in the Bodie District. The company consolidated several claims, thereby gaining control over a large portion of the mineral-rich land. The successful extraction and processing of gold ore by the Standard Company were instrumental in Bodie’s transformation from a small camp into a bustling mining town.

Construction and Operation of the Standard Mill

The Standard Mill was constructed in 1877 to process the ore extracted from the company’s mines. It employed the latest technology of the time, using a combination of steam power, gravity, and chemical processes to extract gold from the ore. The mill utilized the amalgamation process, which involved crushing the ore to a fine powder and then using mercury to separate the gold. This process was later supplemented with cyanidation, which allowed for the extraction of gold from low-grade ore, significantly improving recovery rates.

Looking up at the trestle bridge which is used to haul gold ore into the Standard Mill, Bodie, CA.  Two large mortar boxes are visible in the foreground. 
 Photograph by James L Rathbun
Looking up at the trestle bridge which is used to haul gold ore into the Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Two large mortar boxes are visible in the foreground. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Technical Details

Originally, as built, the mill is powered by large steam boilers. There boilers are fed using wood brought up to Bodie on the Bodie and Benton Railroad. The mill initially featured a 20-stamp system, but as operations expanded, it was upgraded to a 30-stamp system. Later, the mill is converted to Hydroelectric power from a plant built approximately thirteen miles from the town at Dynamo Pond.

Ore is loaded into the mill using one of two trestles. The primary trestle connects to the backside of the mill, and used to haul ore from the mines deep inside mines inside of the mountain. The secondary trestle is sloped to the north and is used to haul ore up sevens stories above the the loading room. From there, the ore is sorted with grizzly bars before being dropped into the powerful stamps.

The now quiet stamps of the Standard Mill in Blodie, CA could be heard from four miles away.  Photograph by James L Rathbun
The now quiet stamps of the Standard Mill in Blodie, CA could be heard from four miles away. Photograph by James L Rathbun

The stamps, which were heavy iron rods, repeatedly crushed the ore into a fine powder. This powder was then passed over mercury-coated copper plates, where the gold particles would adhere to the mercury. The amalgam of gold and mercury was then collected and heated to separate the gold from the mercury.

Economic Impact and Contribution to Bodie’s Growth

The Standard Mill was the most significant factor in Bodie’s economic boom during the late 19th century. By 1879, Bodie’s population had swelled to approximately 10,000 people, with the Standard Company producing gold worth millions of dollars by today’s standards. The wealth generated by the mill attracted a diverse population, leading to the establishment of various businesses, schools, and a newspaper. During the height of operations, the stamps from the mill could be heard four miles away, and operated twenty-four hours per day, six days a week.

Ore entering into the the smelting room at the left in the form of 400lb ingots.  Standard Mill, Bodie,
Ore entering into the the smelting room at the left in the form of 400lb ingots. Standard Mill, Bodie,

Challenges and Decline

All the mining and milling activities of the Standard Mining Co., came to their conclusion with the pouring of a bullion bar in the smelting room.
All the mining and milling activities of the Standard Mining Co., came to their conclusion with the pouring of a bullion bar in the smelting room.

Despite its success, the Standard Mill faced numerous challenges, including harsh weather conditions, fires, and fluctuating gold prices. The mill experienced several fires, the most devastating occurring in 1898, which necessitated extensive rebuilding. Additionally, as the richest veins of ore were exhausted, the profitability of the mill declined. The Standard Company ceased operations in 1913, marking the end of Bodie’s major gold production.

Preservation and Historical Significance

Today, the Standard Mill stands as a testament to Bodie’s rich mining history. It is one of the best-preserved examples of a 19th-century mill in California. The site is now part of Bodie State Historic Park, established in 1962, which aims to preserve the town and educate the public about its historical significance. The mill’s machinery, structures, and surrounding buildings offer valuable insights into the technological advancements and industrial processes of the time.

The Hoover House served as housing for the Director of Operations of the Standard Mill in Bodie.  Photography by James L Rathbun
The Hoover House served as housing for the Director of Operations of the Standard Mill in Bodie. Photography by James L Rathbun

Tours are available several times per day for a tickets price of $6 a person. The hour long takes you past the Hoover House up past the stream plant to the trestle, which fed ore up the the top of the mill. From there, the tour route enters the machinery room and power room before dropping into the slucing room and clean up rooms.

The Standard Mill was a cornerstone of the town’s mining industry and played a vital role in its economic development. Through its innovative use of technology and its contribution to gold production, the mill significantly influenced the growth and prosperity of Bodie during its peak years. Today, it remains an important historical site, providing a window into the challenges and achievements of the mining era in the American West.

The Standard Mill Map