Charleston Arizona

Charleston, Arizona is a ghost town located in Cochise County, Arizona. the town operated from the late 1870’s through the 1880’s. The town is founded as a sister city of Millville, Arizona, which is located just across the San Pedro River. Charleston served as a type of residential community to Millville.

Charleston, circa 1885 - Photograph by C. S Fly
Charleston, circa 1885 – Photograph by C. S Fly

Millville, and later Charleston, is built to process ore from nearby Tombstone, which is located about 9 miles northeast of Charleston. The stamp mills in Millville is owned by Tombstone Mill and Mining Company and Corbin Mill and Mining Company started operations in 1879. Peak operations are from 1881 – 1882 where the mills processed 1.4 million dollars in silver bullion.

J.W. Swart's Saloon in Charleston, circa 1885
J.W. Swart’s Saloon in Charleston, circa 1885

At its peak, Charleston suffered a nasty reputation of a rough and tumble town. Following the notorious gunfight in Tombstone, Charleston which claimed the Clantons, the McLaurys, Johnny Ringo, “Curly Bill” Brocius, Pete Spence and Frank Stillwell, as citizens, it is no wonder the town is found guilty by association. In Charleston, Frank Stillwell was the previous owner of the J.W. Swart saloon prior to selling in 1881. The bulk of the these men are under the employment of the Clanton’s Ranch. On May 6, 1882, The Tombstone Epitaph reported on Charleston that the town is “well regulated and free from turmoil” and “one of the most peaceful places we were ever in.”

In 1886 the silver mines in Tombstone flooded with water. The mills in Millville were forced to shut down, and Charleston and Millville went into steep decline. In the 1890’s, Charleston is abandoned and considered a ghost town. Charleston was briefly inhabited in the 1890s by a small population of Mexican immigrants who used the remaining wooden structures as firewood.

Charleston Town Summary

NameCharleston, Arizona
LocationCochise County, Arizona
Also Known AsCharleston Station
Latitude, Longitude31.6358, -110.1725
Elevation1216 meters / 3990 feet
GNIS24360
Population400
Post OfficeApril 17, 1879 – October 24, 1888

Charleston Trail Map

Charleston is located about 9 miles southwest of Tombstone, Arizona. Charleston and Millville are not accessible by car and can only be reached by hiking up the San Pedro River. The Bureau of Land Management has begun maintaining trails to and from the area. 

Charleston Arizona Persons of Interest

Historical photo of Ike Clanton in 1881 by photographer Camillus S. Fly, Tombstone, Arizona Territory.

Joseph Isaac Clanton

Joseph Isaac Clanton, commonly knows as "Ike" Clanton was a notable figure in the American Old West, primarily recognized for his involvement in the notorious…
Newman Haynes “Old Man” Clanton (1816 – 1881 )

Newman Haynes Clanton

Newman Haynes Clanton was a central figure in the tumultuous period of the American frontier, representing the complex interplay of law, crime, and social dynamics…
The only known portrait photo of Frank McLaury of Tombstone.

Robert Findley McLaury

The only known portrait photo of Frank McLaury of Tombstone. Robert Findley McLaury, known as Frank McLaury (1857–1881) was a notable figure in the American…
Thomas McLaury of Tombstone in 1879

Thomas McLaury 

Thomas McLaury of Tombstone in 1879 Tom McLaury, born as Thomas McLaury, was a key figure in the tumultuous environment of the American frontier during…

References

Johnny Behan

John H. Behan - Sheriff of Cochise County in the Arizona Territory
John H. Behan – Sheriff of Cochise County in the Arizona Territory

Johnny Behan was a notable figure in the American Old West, best known for his role as sheriff of Cochise County, Arizona, during the turbulent era of the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral. Born in 1844 in Missouri, Behan moved to Arizona in the early 1870s and quickly became involved in politics and law enforcement. As sheriff, he was a controversial character, often criticized for his alleged connections with the outlaw Cowboys and his rivalry with the Earp brothers. Behan’s tenure was marked by accusations of corruption and inefficiency, culminating in his failure to control the lawlessness that plagued Tombstone. Despite his tarnished reputation, he continued to serve in various public roles until his death in 1912.

John Harris “Johnny” Behan
Birth: October 24, 1844, Westport, Missouri, USA
Death: June 7, 1912, Tucson, Arizona, USA

Early Life and Career:

John Harris Behan, commonly known as Johnny Behan, was born on October 24, 1844, in Westport, Missouri. Behan moved with his family to California in the mid-1850s during the Gold Rush era. He later relocated to Prescott, Arizona, where he began his career in law enforcement and politics.

Law Enforcement and Political Career:

Behan’s entry into law enforcement began in 1866 when he became the Sheriff of Yavapai County, Arizona Territory. His reputation as a capable lawman grew, and he soon entered politics, serving as a member of the Arizona Territorial Legislature.

In 1880, Behan moved to Tombstone, Arizona, a booming silver-mining town. He was appointed Sheriff of Cochise County in 1881, a position that put him at the center of one of the most famous episodes in the American Wild West—the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral.

Gunfight at the O.K. Corral

As Sheriff of Cochise County, Behan was involved in the conflict between the Earp brothers—Wyatt, Virgil, and Morgan—and the Clanton-McLaury gang. The feud culminated in the legendary gunfight on October 26, 1881. Behan, who had a contentious relationship with the Earps, was accused of favoring the Clantons and McLaurys. Despite his attempts to maintain order, the shootout resulted in the deaths of three members of the Clanton-McLaury gang.

Following the gunfight, Behan’s reputation suffered due to his perceived partiality and his inability to prevent the violence. His popularity waned, and he lost the re-election for sheriff to Wyatt Earp’s ally, Johnny Ringo, in 1882.

Later Life

After his tenure as sheriff, Behan continued to work in various law enforcement roles, including as a U.S. Customs Inspector in Nogales, Arizona. He also served as a police officer and later as a night watchman in Tucson.

Behan married Victoria Zaff in 1869, and the couple had one son, Albert. However, the marriage ended in divorce in 1880. Behan later married Josephine Sadie Marcus, although this union was also short-lived.

Death

Johnny Behan passed away on June 7, 1912, in Tucson, Arizona, at the age of 67. He was buried in the city’s Evergreen Cemetery.

Legacy

Johnny Behan remains a controversial figure in the history of the American West. While he was a dedicated lawman and politician, his involvement in the events leading up to and following the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral has cast a long shadow over his legacy. Behan’s life and career continue to be a subject of fascination for historians and Wild West enthusiasts, reflecting the complex and often tumultuous nature of frontier justice and law enforcement in the late 19th century.

Decision of Judge Wells Spicer after the Preliminary Hearing in the Earp-Holliday Case

The bodies of Tom & Frank McLaury and Bill Clanton after the shoot-out in Tombstone
The bodies of Tom & Frank McLaury and Bill Clanton after the shoot-out in Tombstone

The Gunfight at the O.K. Corral, one of the most famous shootouts in the American Old West, took place on October 26, 1881, in Tombstone, Arizona Territory. The confrontation involved lawmen Virgil, Wyatt, and Morgan Earp, along with Doc Holliday, against the outlaw Cochise County Cowboys, including Ike and Billy Clanton, Tom McLaury, and Frank McLaury. Tensions had been building for months between the Earps and the Cowboys, stemming from political differences, law enforcement disputes, and personal grudges. The actual gunfight lasted only about 30 seconds, with the Earps and Holliday emerging victorious, killing Tom and Frank McLaury and Billy Clanton.

Although the gunfight was relatively brief and took place in a small alley near the O.K. Corral, its impact on American folklore and the mythos of the Wild West has been significant. The shootout was later romanticized in literature, film, and popular culture, often portraying the Earps and Holliday as heroic figures standing up against lawlessness. However, the events leading up to and following the gunfight were complex, involving legal battles, public opinion, and ongoing violence, reflecting the broader conflicts of power and law in the tumultuous frontier society.

The following a transcript of Judge Wells Spicer after the Preliminary Hearing in the Earp-Holliday Case

Territory of Arizona
VS.
Morgan Earp, et al Defendants

Historical photo of Wells Spicer, 1875. Cropped from group photo of John D. Lee's defense team for Lee's second murder trial.
Historical photo of Wells Spicer, 1875. Cropped from group photo of John D. Lee’s defense team for Lee’s second murder trial.

Defendants Wyatt Earp and John Holliday, two of the defendants named in the above entitled action were arrested upon a warrant issued by me on the 29th day of October, on a charge of murder. The complaint filed, upon which this warrant was issued, accuses said defendants of the murder of William Clanton, Frank McLaury, and Thomas McLaury on the 26th day of last month, at Tombstone, in this County. This case has now been on hearing for the past thirty days, during which time a volume of testimony has been taken and eminent legal talent employed on both sides.

The great importance of the case, as well as the great interest taken in it by the entire community, demand that I should be full and explicit in my findings and conclusions and should give ample reasons for what I do.

From the mass of evidence before-much of which is upon collateral matter-I have found it necessary for the purposes of this decision to consider only those facts which are conceded by both sides or are established by a large preponderance of testimony.

Viewing it in this manner, I find that on the morning of the 26th day of October, 1881, and up to noon of that day, Joseph I. Clanton or Isaac Clanton, the prosecuting witness in this case, was about the streets and in several saloons of Tombstone, armed with revolver and Winchester rifle, declaring publicly that the Earp brothers and Holliday had insulted him the night before when he was unarmed, and now he was armed and intended to shoot them or fight them on sight. These threats were communicated to defendants, Virgil Earp and Wyatt Earp.

Virgil Earp was at this time the chief of police of Tombstone and charged as such officer by the city ordinance with the duty of preserving the peace, and arresting, with or without warrant, all persons engaged in any disorderly act, whereby a breach of the peace might be occasioned, and to arrest and disarm all persons violating the city ordinance which declares it to be unlawful to carry on the person any deadly weapon within the city limits, without obtaining a permit in writing.

Wyatt Berry Stapp Earp - Aged 39
Wyatt Berry Stapp Earp – Aged 39

Shortly after noon of October 26th, defendant Virgil Earp, as chief of police, assisted by Morgan Earp, who was also at the time a special policeman in the pay of the city and wearing a badge, arrested and disarmed said Isaac Clanton, and in such arrest and disarmament, inflicted upon the side of his head a blow from a pistol-whether this blow was necessary is not material here to determine.

Isaac Clanton was then taken to Justice or Recorder Wallace, where he was fined and his arms, consisting of a revolver and Winchester rifle, taken from him and deposited at the Grand Hotel, subject to his orders.

While at Justice Wallace’s court and awaiting the coming of Judge Wallace, some hot words passed between Isaac Clanton and Wyatt Earp. Earp accused Clanton of having previously threatened to take his life, and then proposed to make a fight with him anywhere, to which Isaac Clanton assented, and then declared that “Fight was his racket,” and that when he was arrested and disarmed, if Earp had been a second later, “there would have been a coroner’s inquest in town.”

Immediately subsequent to this, a difficulty occurred in front of Judge Wallace’s courtroom, between Wyatt Earp and the deceased Thomas McLaury, in which the latter was struck by the former with a pistol and knocked down.

Historical photo of Ike Clanton in 1881 by photographer Camillus S. Fly, Tombstone, Arizona Territory.
Historical photo of Ike Clanton in 1881 by photographer Camillus S. Fly, Tombstone, Arizona Territory.

In view of these controversies between Wyatt Earp and Isaac Clanton and Thomas McLaury, and in further view of this quarrel the night before between Isaac Clanton and J. H. Holliday, I am of the opinion that the defendant, Virgil Earp, as chief of police, subsequently calling upon Wyatt Earp, and J. H. Holliday to assist him in arresting and disarming the Clantons and McLaurys-committed an injudicious and censurable act, and although in this he acted incautiously and without due circumspection, yet when we consider the conditions of affairs incident to a frontier country; the lawlessness and disregard for human life; the existence of a law-defying element in [our] midst; the fear and feeling of insecurity that has existed; the supposed prevalence of bad, desperate and reckless men who have been a terror to the country and kept away capital and enterprise; and consider the many threats that have been made against the Earps, I can attach no criminality to his unwise act. In fact, as the result plainly proves, he needed the assistance and support of staunch and true friends, upon whose courage, coolness and fidelity he could depend, in case of an emergency.

Soon after the conclusion of proceedings at Judge Wallace’s court, Isaac Clanton and Thomas McLaury were joined by William Clanton and Frank McLaury, who had arrived in town. In the afternoon these parties went to [the] gun shop, where they were seen loading their guns and obtaining cartridges. These proceedings were seen by Wyatt Earp, who reported the same to Virgil Earp, chief of police, said Wyatt Earp at the time being a sworn policeman.

After this, the Clantons and McLaurys went to the Dexter Stables, on Allen Street, and shortly after, crossed the street to the O.K. Corral and passed through to Fremont Street. With what purpose they crossed through to Fremont Street will probably never be known. It is claimed by the prosecution that their purpose was to leave town. It is asserted by the defendants that their purpose was to make an attack upon them or at least to feloniously resist any attempt to arrest or disarm them that might be made by the chief of police and his assistants.

Virgil Earp 1843 -1905
Virgil Earp 1843 -1905

Whatever their purpose may have been, it is clear to my mind that Virgil Earp, the chief of police, honestly believed [and from information of threats that day given him, his belief was reasonable], that their purpose was, if not to attempt the deaths of himself and brothers, at least to resist with force and arms any attempt on his part to perform his duty as a peace officer by arresting and disarming them.

At this time Virgil Earp was informed by one H. F. Sills, an engineer from the A. T. & S. F. R. R., then absent from duty, on a lay-off furlough, and who had arrived in town only the day before and totally unacquainted [with] any person in town, or the state of affairs existing here. Sills had overheard armed parties just then passing through the O.K. Corral say, in effect, that they would make sure to kill Earp, the marshal, and would kill all the Earp.

At the same time, several citizens and a committee of citizens came to Virgil Earp, the chief of police, and insisted that he should perform his duty as such officer and arrest and disarm the cowboys, as they termed the Clan tons and McLaurys.

Was it for Virgil Earp as chief of police to abandon his clear duty as an officer because its performance was likely to be fraught with danger? Or was it not his duty that as such officer he owed to the peaceable and law-abiding citizens of the city, who looked to him to preserve peace and order, and their protection and security, to at once call to his aid sufficient assistance and persons to arrest and disarm these men?

There can be but one answer to these questions, and that answer is such as will divest the subsequent approach of the defendants toward the deceased of all presumption of malice or of illegality.

When, therefore, the defendants, regularly or specially appointed officers, marched down Fremont Street to the scene of the subsequent homicide, they were going where it was their right and duty to go; and they were doing what it was their right and duty to do; and they were armed, as it was their right and duty to be armed, when approaching men they believed to be armed and contemplating resistance.

The legal character of the homicide must therefore be determined by what occurred at the time and not by the precedent facts. To consti­tute the crime of murder there must be proven not only the killing, but also the felonious intent. In this case, the corpus delicti or fact of killing is in fact admitted as well as clearly proven. The felonious intent is as much a fact to be proven as the corpus delicti, and in looking over this mass of testimony for evidence upon this point, I find that it is anything but clear.

Witnesses of credibility testify that each of the deceased or at least two of them yielded to a demand to surrender. Other witnesses of equal credibility testify that William Clanton and Frank McLaury met the demand for surrender by drawing their pistols, and that the discharge of firearms from both sides was almost instantaneous.

Thomas McLaury of Tombstone in 1879
Thomas McLaury of Tombstone in 1879

There is a dispute as to whether Thomas McLaury was armed at all, except with a Winchester rifle that was on the horse beside him. I will not consider this question, because it is not of controlling importance. Certain it is that the Clantons and McLaurys had among them at least two six-shooters in their hands, and two Winchester rifles on their horses. Therefore, if Thomas McLaury was one of a party who were thus armed and were making felonious resistance to an arrest, and in the melee that followed was shot, the fact of his being unarmed, if it be a fact, could not of itself criminate the defendants, if they were not otherwise criminated.

It is beyond doubt that William Clanton and Frank McLaury were armed, and made such quick and effective use of their arms as to seriously wound Morgan Earp and Virgil Earp.

In determining the important question of whether the deceased offered to surrender before resisting, I must give as much weight to the testimony of persons unacquainted with the deceased or the defendants, as to the testimony of persons who were companions and acquaintances, if not partisans of the deceased. And I am of [the] opinion that those who observed the conflict from a short distance and from points of observation that gave them a good view of the scene, to say the least, were quite as likely to be accurate in their observation as those mingled up in or fleeing from the melee.

Witnesses for the prosecution state unequivocally that William Clanton fell or was shot at the first fire and Claiborne says he was shot when the pistol was only about a foot from his belly. Yet it is clear that there were no powder burns or marks on his clothes. And Judge Lucas says he saw him fire or in the act of firing several times before he was shot, and he thinks two shots afterwards.

Addie Bourland, who saw distinctly the approach of the Earps and the beginning of the affray, from a point across the street, where she could correctly observe all their movements, says she cannot tell which fired first-that the firing commenced at once, from both sides, on the approach of the Earps, and that no hands were held up; that she could have seen them if there had been. Sills asserted that the firing was almost simultan­eous. I could not tell which side fired first.

Considering all the testimony together, I am of the opinion that the weight of evidence sustains and corroborates the testimony of Wyatt Earp, that their demand for surrender was met by William Clanton and Frank McLaury drawing or making motions to draw their pistols. Upon this hypothesis my duty is clear. The defendants were officers charged with the duty of arresting and disarming armed and determined men who were expert in the use of firearms, as quick as thought and as certain as death and who had previously declared their intention not to be arrested nor disarmed. Under the statutes [Sec. 32, page 74 of Compo Laws], as well as the common law, they have a right to repel force with force.

In coming to this conclusion, I give great weight to several particular circumstances connected with [the] affray. It is claimed by the prosecution that the deceased were shot while holding up their hands in obedience of the command of the chief of police, and on the other hand the defense claims that William Clanton and Frank McLaury at once drew their pistols and began firing simultaneously with [the] defendants. Wil­liam Clanton was wounded on the wrist of the right hand on the first fire and thereafter used his pistol with his left. This wound is such as could not have been received with his hands thrown up, and the wound received by Thomas McLaury was such as could not have been received with his hands on his coat lapels. These circumstances being indubitable [indubitable] facts, throw great doubt upon the correctness of the statement of witnesses to the contrary.

The testimony of Isaac Clanton, that this tragedy was the result of a scheme on the part of the Earps to assassinate him and thereby bury in oblivion the confessions the Earps had made to him about “piping” away the shipment of coin by Wells Fargo & Co. falls short of being a sound theory, [on] account of the great fact, most prominent in this matter, to wit: that Isaac Clanton was not injured at all, and could have been killed first and easiest, if it was the object of the attack to kill him. He would have been the first to fall; but, as it was, he was known or believed to be unarmed, and was suffered and, as Wyatt Earp testified, told to go away, and was not harmed.

John H. Behan - Sheriff of Cochise County in the Arizona Territory
John H. Behan – Sheriff of Cochise County in the Arizona Territory

I also give great weight in this matter to the testimony of Sheriff Behan, who said that on one occasion a short time ago Isaac Clanton told him that he, Clanton, had been informed that the sheriff was coming to arrest him and that he, Clanton, armed his crowd with guns and was deter­mined not to be arrested by the sheriff-or words to that effect. And Sheriff Behan further testified that a few minutes before the Earps came to them, that he as sheriff had demanded of the Clan tons and McLaurys that they give up their arms, and that they “demurred,” as he said, and did not do it, and that Frank McLaury refused and gave as a reason that he was not ready to leave town just then and would not give up his arms unless the Earps were disarmed-that is, that the chief of police and his assistants should be disarmed.

In view of the past history of the county and the generally believed existence at this time of desperate, reckless and lawless men in our midst, banded together for mutual support and living by felonious and predatory pursuits, regarding neither life nor property in their career, and at the same time for men to parade the streets armed with repeating rifles and six-shooters and demand that the chief of police and his assistants should be disarmed is a proposition both monstrous and startling! This was said by one of the deceased only a few minutes before the arrival of the Earps.

Another fact that rises up preeminent in the consideration of this said affair is the leading fact that the deceased, from the very first inception of the encounter, were standing their ground and fighting back, giving and taking death with unflinching bravery. It does not appear to have been a wanton slaughter of unresisting and unarmed innocents, who were yielding graceful submission to the officers of the law, or surrendering to, or fleeing from their assailants; but armed and defiant men, accepting their wager of battle and succumbing only in death.

The prosecution claims much upon the point, as they allege, that the Earp party acted with criminal haste that they precipitated the triple homicide by a felonious intent then and there to kill and murder the deceased, and that they made use of their official characters as a pretext. I cannot believe this theory, and cannot resist the firm conviction that the Earps acted wisely, discretely and prudentially, to secure their own self preservation. They saw at once the dire necessity of giving the first shots, to save themselves from certain death! They acted. Their shots were effective, and this alone saved the Earp party from being slain.

In view of all the facts and circumstances of the case, considering the threats made, the character and positions of the parties, and the tragic results accomplished in manner and form as they were, with all surrounding influences bearing upon resgestae of the affair, I cannot resist the conclusion that the defendants were fully justified in committing these homicides-that it is a necessary act, done in the discharge of an official duty.

It is the duty of an examining and committing magistrate in this territory to issue a warrant of arrest in the first place, whenever from the depositions given there is reasonable ground to believe that the defendant has committed a public offense [Sec. 87, page 111 of Compo Laws].

After hearing evidence, however, the statute changes the rule, and he is then required to commit the defendant only when there is “Sufficient cause to believe” him guilty. [Sec. 143, page 111 of Compo Laws].

My interpretation is that the rule which should govern an examin­ing magistrate is the same as that which should govern the conclusions of a Grand Jury. That such as prescribed by statute [Sec. 188, page 121 of Compo Laws] is: “The Grand Jury ought to find an indictment when all the evidence before them, taken together, is such as in their judgment will, if unexplained or uncontradicted, warrant a conviction by the trial jury.”

The evidence taken before me in this case, would not, in my judgment, warrant a conviction of the defendants by trial jury of any offense whatever. I do not believe that any trial jury that could be got together in this territory, would, on all the evidence taken before me, with the rule of law applicable thereto given them by the court, find the defendants guilty of any offense.

It may be that my judgment is erroneous, and my view of the law incorrect, yet it is my own judgment and my own understanding of the law as I find it laid down, and upon this I must act and decide, and not upon those of any other persons. I have given over four weeks of patient attention to the hearing of evidence in this case, and at least four-fifths of my waking hours have been devoted, at this time, to an earnest study of the evidence before me, and such is the conclusion to which I am forced to arrive.

I have the less reluctance in announcing this conclusion because the Grand Jury of this county is now in session, and it is quite within the power of that body, if dissatisfied with my decision, to call witnesses before them or use the depositions taken before me, and which I shall return to the district court, as by law required, and to thereupon disregard my findings, and find an indictment against the defendants, if they think the evidence sufficient to warrant a conviction.

I conclude the performance of this duty imposed upon me by saying in the language of the Statute: “There being no sufficient cause to believe the within named Wyatt S. Earp and John H. Holliday guilty of the offense mentioned within. I order them to be released.”

[Signed] Wells Spicer, Magistrate

References

Camillus Sydney Fly – Tombstone Photographer

Camillus Sydney Fly was a photographer and eyewitness to one of the most notorious gunfights in western history. Camillus Sidney Fly was born in Andrew County, Mo., in 1849. Later that same year, Boone and Mary Fly crossed the prairie to Napa County, California with their infant son. On September 29th, 1879 he married Mary “Mollie” Goodrich, a photographer in her own right, and just a few months later, arrived in Tombstone Arizona.

C. S. Fly's Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona
C. S. Fly’s Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona
Historical photo of Ike Clanton in 1881 by photographer Camillus S. Fly, Tombstone, Arizona Territory.
Historical photo of Ike Clanton in 1881 by photographer Camillus S. Fly, Tombstone, Arizona Territory.

Fly arrived to Tombstone Arizona in December 1879 and established, Fly’s Photography Gallery, on Fremont Street. Like many new arrivals, his first shelter was a tent, which the couple lived in while the photography studio and 12 room boarding house are built at 312 Fremont Street. Fly did some prospecting in the nearby Dragoon Mountains, but relied on the Gallery and boardinghouse next to it for income.

While in Tombstone, Mollie would take indoor portraits of the townspeople, while Buck’s photographic subjects tended towards outdoor photographs of mills, soldiers, ranchers and scenic panoramas. Regardless of photographer almost at almost all of their photographs were credited to C.S. Fly.

Destiny arrived for the Fly’s about 3:00 pm on October 26th, 1881. A long running feud between the Earp’s and McLaury/Clantons lead to the most iconic gunfight in western history, the gunfight at the O. K. Corral. For students of history, the gunfight actually occurred near the O. K. Corral in a vacant lot next to Fly’s Gallery. Ike Clanton famously hide in Fly’s gallery during the gunfight and Mr. Camillus Sydney Fly disarmed a dying Billy Clanton with a Henry Rifle in the aftermath of the fight.

We four started through Fourth to Fremont Street. When we turned the comer of Fourth and Fremont we could see them standing near or about the vacant space between Fly’s photograph gallery and the next building west. I first saw Frank McLaury, Tom McLaury, Billy Clanton and Sheriff Behan standing there. We went down the left-hand side of Fremont Street.

Statement of Wyatt S. Earp
in the Preliminary  Hearing in the Earp-Holliday Case,
Heard before Judge Wells Spicer – November 16, 1881

Geronimo’s Surrender

Geronimo poses with members of his tribe and General George Crook's staff during peace negotiations on March 27, 1886. - Photograph by C.S. Fly
Geronimo poses with members of his tribe and General George Crook’s staff during peace negotiations on March 27, 1886. – Photograph by C.S. Fly

In March, 1886, General George Cook is notified that the Apache Leader Geronimo agreed to meet. The meeting is arranged at Cañon de los Embudos about eighty six miles from Fort Bowie. Fly learned of this meeting and quickly attached himself to the military column. During the negotiations with Geronimo, C. S. Fly took about fifteen exposures on 8 x 10 inch glass plates. After three days of negotiations, Geronimo agreed to terms of surrender and returned to his camp across the Mexican border.

That night, while in his camp, a U. S. solder who supplied the Apache camp with whiskey, bragged that Geronimo and his followers would be attacked and killed as soon as they crossed the U. S. border. Geronimo and his thirty nine follows left camp that night. The U. S. army pursed Geronimo and his band until September 4, 1886 when, exhausted they surrendered.

Later in life…

In 1887 Fly traveled to Mexico to photograph the aftereffects of an earthquake in Bavispe. The same year, he toured the Arizona Territory to exhibit his photographic works of the area. He and his wife moved to Phoenix in 1893, where they opened another studio. The Flys returned to Tombstone after a year in Phoenix, and in 1895 C.S. Fly was elected to a two-year term as a Cochise County Sheriff.

C. S. Fly's Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona on fire 1912, Photograph by Mary "Mollie" Fly
C. S. Fly’s Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona on fire 1912, Photograph by Mary “Mollie” Fly


When his term as a sheriff expired, Fly retired to his ranch in the Chiricahua Mountains, where he spent his remaining days. He died in Bisbee on October 12, 1901, at the age of 51. His remains were interred at the Tombstone Cemetery.

In 1912, his photography studio burns in Tombstone, Arizona. Ever the professional, Mollie documents the destruction of a warehouse of lost western photographic history, with a dramatic photograph.

References

National Register of Historic Places – Tombstone

The National Register of Historic Places Nomination Application of the history of Tombstone, Cochise County, Arizona

The bodies of Tom & Frank McLaury and Bill Clanton after the shoot-out in Tombstone
The bodies of Tom & Frank McLaury and Bill Clanton after the shoot-out in Tombstone

Tombstone, Arizona, sits atop a mesa (elevation 4,539) in the valley of the San Pedro River between the Huachuca and Whetstone Mountains to the west, and the Mules and the Dragoons to the east. The silver-bearing Tombstone Hills, among
which the city lies, are caused by a local upheaval of porphyry through a capping of limestone. The town, incorporated in 1879, burned twice, in June 1881, and May 1882, destroying most of the central business district. Most of the present town dates from the rebuilding after the 1882 fire. The buildings are one, sometimes two story, built of adobe, wood, or brick. Decorative detail is sometimes pressed metal, as on the Oriental Saloon, Fifth and Alien Streets. A shed porch supported by white wooden pillars projects over the wooden sidewalks on Alien Street.


Major Buildings

  1. The Cochise County Courthouse (1882) An Italian villa structure built in the shape of a latin cross, the courthouse is a two story brick building with stone quoins decorating the corners and a stone belt course marking the division
    between the stories. The projecting central pavilion has a central porch supported by Tuscan columns and a balustrade crowning the entablature. Engaged Tuscan columns frame the tall wooden door, which is surmounted by a fan light. The tall four over four windows are topped by cornices held by projecting brackets. A plain cornice tops the second story and each arm of the cross ends in a pedimented gable. The whole is surmounted by a cupola with two round arched windows in each face, each face topped by a pediment which echoes the gable pediment below. The hipped roof of the cupola ends in a balustrade. The courthouse was used until 1929 when the county seat was removed to Bisbee. It is now owned by the State of Arizona which operates it as a museum.
  2. Tombstone City Hall (1882) This three bay, two story brick building houses both the Tombstone city government and the fire department. The arched doorways of the ground floor have recessed doors with plain transoms above, the central doorway being double. The second story windows have round headed drip mouldings, the windows of the central bay being double to match the doorway below. There are two *Y cornices, one over the doorways, supported by ornamentlcHferacTegts; the second story; cornice is topped by a pediment, whose lines are repeated in the parapet above. The parapet is decorated with four finials. The city offices inside have recently been modernized, the ceilings having been dropped, the walls pannelled, a new door cut, and the floors carpeted.

After Ed Schieffelin’s discovery of silver in the San Pedro Valley in 1877, the boom town of Tombstone became, for a brief moment, the biggest, richest, gaudiest, hottest, meanest, most notorious town in Arizona Territory. While it was the mines
that drew the people to the town, Tombstone is best remembered for sixty seconds of one day – October 26, 1881 – when in a blazing flash America’s most famous gun battle flamed the gun fight at the OK Corral. The battle is a morality play which continues to fascinate because it has nearly every ingredient of the human drama: courage and cowardice, loyalty and treachery, hate, greed, and violence. The when four tall men dressed in black walked down Fremont Street to meet five outlaws waiting in an obscure horse yard remains fixed on the retina forever recreating in the American mind the eternal battle between Good and Evil that is basic to the human condition.

History

The lands in southeast Arizona were among the last penetrated by American settlement because they were the haunt and fortress of the fierce Apache. After the death of Cochise (1874), which left no clear succession to leadership, the Apache were more than usually rapacious. When in 1877 Ed Schieffelin decided to prospect in the San Pedro Valley no white man and few red ones were secure east of Fort Huachuca, so he used the fort as a base for careful one-day prospecting trips. Laughing troopers
told him he would find only his tombstone, SO when he made his strike, he called it Tombstone. Hie name came to mean much more, for those notorious and nameless who died there and are laid in Boot Hill, as well as for the Wild American West, for
Schieffelin’s mortal town was the last of the wide-open, flaming boom towns that provide us with our Frontier iconography.

  1. Schieffelin Hall (1881) This large, two story adobe building once was the scene of touring plays, operas and reviews. Built in an I shape with a gable roof, it today houses the Tombstone Historama.
  2. The Bird Cage Theater (1881) This three bay building with recessed round arched doorways once hosted the less reputable stage presentations, as a combination theater and dance hall. Presumably it took its name from the
    curtained boxes suspended from the roof in which the girls plied their trade between acts. It is now a museum.
  3. The Tombstone Epitaph (1882) — The second home of John Clum’s feisty newspaper, this building is typical of store fronts of the period, with its wide, tall windows, its double doorway, and its simple cornice. It is still an active newspaper.
  4. The San Jose House and the Crabtree Livery Stable (1881) These two single story adobe buildings at the corner of Fremont and Fifth Streets are among the oldest in town. The San Jose House, formerly a boarding house, is
    faced with pressed metal siding and has a simple ornamental cornice. The OK Corral. The adobe offices of the famous corral stand on Alien Street between Third and Fourth, with the stable yards extending back to
    Freemont Street. Both the office and the corral wall have simple stepped back parapets. Now a museum with cut-out figures of the combatants.
  5. The Crystal Palace (1882) A simple three bay, two story structure with ornamental quoins and a balustrade atop the shed porch, and a flat roof with a plain cornice, the present building was built in the fall of 1880, but this facade represents what the building looked like before the May 1882 fire.
  6. The Wyatt Earp Building and the Bank Building represent similarly shaped commercial blocks c. 1881. The bank building’s facade was changed in 1883. Both blocks are rectangular with their major entrance at the corner. Compare the parapets. The Tuscan ornamentation on the bank building shows its greater claim to gentility.

Alien Street was the major commercial center. Respectable women used only the north side; their commercial sisters plied their trade on the south side and in the southeast quarter of the town, as far as possible from the proper residential section north of Fremont Street. Today the shops along Alien Street are a mixture of the museum, trinket shop, and restaurant, with services for local residents, such as a bank and drug store, mixed in. The storefronts will eventually be restored to the 1885 period.

Schieffelin, his brother Al, and Richard Gird, their mining engineer partner, brought in two big strikes, the Lucky Cuss and the Toughnut, besides owning a piece of Hank Williams and John Oliver’s Grand Central, which they called the Contention. With that the San Pedro Valley was in bonanza, with all that meant. Western hard rock mining was actually the antithesis of the American western dream for the mineral frontier required heavy capital and company organization to get the ore out. Former Territorial Governor Anson P.K. Safford offered to find the financial backing for a cut of the strike, and so the Tombstone Mining
and Milling Company was formed to build a stamping mill. Up to that time what town there was had been at Watervale near the Lucky Cuss. With the building of the mill, the population shifted to Goose Flats, a mesa above the Toughnut which was 4500 feet above sea level and large enough to hold a boom town. By the fall of 1879 a few thousand hardy souls were in a canvas and matchstick camp, perched among the richest silver strike in Arizona.

Like all mining towns, Tombstone grew like a mushroom. The big capital moved in 1880, the year the Southern Pacific reached Tucson. That fall the village of Tombstone was incorporated, and life settled into its brief, gaudy round. The mill And mines were running three shifts, union wages were $4 a day, and the mostly young, single, male population half horse and half alligator
needed some place to roar. Alien Street provided it. Nearly 110 places were licensed to sell liquor, and most sold other things as well. The hotels, saloons, gambling dens, dance halls, and brothels were roaring 24 hours a day. The town grew apace. In 1881 the population was 6,000; ‘at the height of thetown’s growth (c. 1885) it was perhaps 10,000 making it the largest town in the territory. By 1884 they had taken $25,000,000 out of the ground. Water proved difficult; it had to be hauled in until 1881 when the Huachuca Water Company piped it 23 miles from the Huachuca Mountains. The gaudy part of town along Alien Street was only the most obvious. All around it, respectable t people were struggling to earn a living and erect civilization as they had done
. elsewhere in the west. There were four churches (Catholic, Episcopalian, Presbyterian, and Methodist), two newspapers (the Nugget and the Epitaph), schools, lodges, and lending libraries. Schieffelin Hall, a large adobe building, provided a stage for plays, operas, reviews, and all the respectable stage shows. The Bird Cage on Alien Street provided the stage for the disreptuable ones.

The town developed a split personality: on the one hand, respectable, Godfearing folk trying to make a decent life for themselves, on the other, a flashy, hurdy-gurdy town full of shady ladies and tin horn gamblers who catered to the wants of the miners and cowhands. In back of the demimonde lurked a criminal organization that would take a Presidential proclamation and the threat of martial law to dislodge.

Tombstone’s unique situation was the cause of the trouble. In the beginning it was part of Pima County, whose seat, Tucson, was hard miles away. Even further away the territorial capital was in Prescott, and in the governor’s chair, John Charles Fremont. Sometime since the Pathfinder had begun to lose his way, and he reacted to his gubernatorial appointment by sulking because it
was not a cabinet post. And so the territory was run by the Democratic machine which, in those robust days, was engagingly corrupt. In 1881 the southeast corner of Pima County was erected into Cochise County with its seat in Tombstone, and the situation in Cochise County was difficult. Not only were hard cases drawn there by the presence of large silver bars, but the town was situated near enough to the Mexican border to be the center of a large trade in stolen cattle. As the Kansas and Texas towns were tamed, the technologically unemployed gun-slingers and drovers drifted toward Tombstone where they found an agreeable climate for their kind. Following them were the frontier peace officers: the Earps, Virgil, Wyatt, Morgan, and Bat Masterson. They all came to Tombstone, there to work out their destiny.

The head of the rustlers was N.H. (Old Man) Clanton; he was ably seconded by his sons Ike, Phin, and Billy. They had a “ranch” near Lewis Springs. The Sulphur Springs Valley was the site of the McLowry brothers, also of a rustling persuasion. The two groups controlled the water holes for miles around. What cattle they did not run up from Mexico, they lifted from their neighbors. Their lieutenants were the likes of Curly Bill Brocius and Johnny Ringo, and only the strongest cattle men, like Henry Hooker and John Slaughter, could hold out against them.

In the summer of 1879 the first ore shipments came out of the mill; in the fall the first of the Wells, Fargo stagecoaches was robbed. The contest was on. The rustlers-cum-road agents struck and retired to their ranches, untouchable, charged Wyatt Earp, because they were protected by the corrupt Cochise County Sheriff John Behan. The evidence seems to bear out the charge. Few road agents were ever arrested, even when they had been recognized, and those few unaccountably escaped custody. By this time Old Man Clanton was dead, killed in retaliation for a cattle raid into Mexico, and his place as chieftain was taken by
Curly Bill Brocius, who had killed Tom White, Tombstone’s first town marshal. Soon the criminals determined to dominate Tombstone as they did the surrounding country-side, not just “tree the town” as the miners and cowhands were wont to do, but to own it. Between them and their objective stood two men, U.S. Deputy Marhsal Wyatt Earp and his brother Virgil, the town marshal. Honest men banded into a vigilante group, the Citizens Committee of Safety, and backed the play of the Earps.


Political and economic factors brought about the enmity between the two groups; personal hatred brought on the gunfight. On the 25th of October, 1881, Ike Clanton rode into town, got gloriously drunk, and as he went from bar to bar, threatened to kill the Earps and their friend, Doc Holliday, the consumptive Georgia dentist with the ambiguous reputation. The next morning he was joined by his brothers Billy and Frank, Tom McLowry, and Billy Claibom. Tension rose, in the town. It was just after two o’clock when Wyatt, Virgil, and Morgan Earp stepped out of Hafford’s Saloon on the northeast corner of Fourth and Alien Streets to
arrest the Clantons and their friends (for carrying arms within the town limits). As they walked toward the OK Corral they were joined by .Doc Holliday “indignant at the thought that they had meant to leave him behind.” The corral offices were on Alien Street between Third and Fourth, but the lot ran through to Fremont Street on the north. It was in the open lot between Fly’s Photo Studio and the Harwood House where the rustlers waited. Sheriff Behan met the lawmen midway to announce that he had disarmed the boys. After finding that he had not arrested the men, the Earps and Holliday brushed him aside and continued down
”Fremont Street. As they passed Fly’s Studio they turned left into the yard and confronted the five men. What happened next took only between thirty and sixty seconds. Seventeen shots were fired on each side. When the smoke cleared, Frank and Tom McLowry and Billy Clanton were dead. Virgil and Morgan Earp were wounded and Doc Holliday was creased along the back.

The gun fight was not the catharsis it is usually portrayed as being, but gasoline on the fire. Only a prompt show of force by the vigilantes prevented the lid from blowing off the town then and there. When Judge Wells Spicer exonerated the Earps and Holliday of murder, the rustlers were determined to get them anyway. The reign of terror increased. Mayor John Clum, editor of
the Epitaph and a strong supporter of the Earps, survived an assassination attempt by luck and quick thinking. Murders on the streets of town and stage-coach robberies increased. Because Virgil’s arm was permanently disabled by his wound, another town marshal was appointed, and the Earp faction lost important official power because Wyatt’s jurisdiction as a U. S. marshal applied only to federal cases.

After Fremont’s resignation, Acting Governor John J. Gosper moved against lawlessness in Cochise County by appointing Wyatt Earp to do the job Sheriff Behan would not — drive out the bandits. In retaliation Behan re-opened the OK Corral case.
On the 19th of March, 1882, Morgan Earp was shot in the back as he played pool in Hatch’s Saloon. While Wyatt and the youngest brother Warren were escorting Virgil and his wife to Tucson, Wyatt shot and killed Frank Stilwell, one of the
rustlers. Because he knew the conditions in Tombstone, Sheriff Paul did not issue warrants for the Earps, but Sheriff Behan deputized Curly Bill Brocius I and the other gun-slingers of the rustler faction to arrest the Earps or shoot

them on sight. The county, territory, and finally the Nation were treated to the spectacle of the U. S. posse and the county posse stalking each other across the badlands, Wyatt with federal warrants for the arrest of the sheriff’s men, Behan with no legal justification at all. After Wyatt killed Curly Bill at an ambush at Iron Springs designed to net the U. S. marshal, the rustlers, deprived their leader, fled to Mexico. The surviving Earps went north into Colorado to await extradition to Pima County.
The new territorial governor, F.A. Trittle, had hardly taken his post when the murder of Morgan Earp, blew the lid off Tombstone for once and all. On investigation, he sent an urgent appeal to President Chester Arthur asking for funds to set up a territorial police to deal with the situation. Arthur went him one better and in a special message to both houses of Congress (April 26, 1882)
suggested using the Army instead. On the third of May Arthur’s Presidential Proclamation threatened martial law by May 15 unless the situation was corrected. Tombstone was shocked by the national publicity.

Governor Trittle and Pima County Sheriff Paul informed Governor Pitkin of Colorado that they could not guarantee the safety of the Earps, and Pitkin refused extradition. That ended it for the Earps. Wyatt followed the frontier wherever it went, retiring to Los Angeles where he died in bed in 1929. In all his career he had never been wounded,


In July, Johnny Ringo, the last outlaw leader, was killed near Turkey Creek, There were still plenty of penny- ante badmen around, enough to make “Texas John” Slaughter’s career as Cochise County Sheriff famous (1888-1892), but the reign
of terror was over. With federal interest aroused, Sheriff Behan did not run for re-election; the machine found him a job anyway assistant warden at the Yuma Territorial Prison. He was later promoted to warden. Tombstone settled down to respectable prosperity. Two fires (June 22, 1881, and May 25, 1882) had wiped out most of the business district. It was promptly rebuilt, and the good times lasted through 1883. By 1884 the price of silver led the mine owners to attempt to reduce wages from $4.00 a day to $3.50. The union struck, and violence at the mines brought what outlawry had never brought troops from Fort Huachuca.


In 1886 water filled the mines, and despite attempts to pump, the mines were closed. Two-thirds of the population left the town. Two brief flurries of prosperity occurred, one in 1890 and one in 1902, but they did not last. In 1929 (the same year Wyatt Earp died in Los Angeles), the county seat was moved to Bisbee, and Tombstone lost its last reason for being, but the town proved
“too tough to die.” It pulled itself together, began restoration and rebuilding, and found a new life as a tourist attraction. In 1961 it was declared a National Historic Landmark and today illustrates much of the flavor and vitality of the old west.


As one of its historians, John Myers Myers, has written, “The great thing about Tombstone was not that there was silver in the veins of the adjacent hills, but that life flowed hotly and strongly in the veins of the people. “

The National Historic Landmark boundary for Tombstone, Arizona, is Approximately the same as that of the proposed Schieffelin Historic District. Boot Hill is not included in the boundary because of its lack of historic integrity. Beginning at a point 180′ southwest of the southwest corner of Third and Toughnut Streets (behind the former Cochise County Courthouse) proceed in a northeasterly direction to the southern curb of Safford Street, thence southeasterly l,300 feet more or less, along the said curb to a point, thence southwesterly l,020 feet, more or less, to a point , thence in a northwesterly direction 1,300*, more or less, to the point of origin.

References