Back country ethics

Back country ethics came to the forefront recently. Over the last weekend, my wife and I decided to take a camping trip into the back country of Death Valley National Park.  We were inspired to return to Racetrack Valley, and over night at the Homestake Dry campground.  Upon our return, we were greeted with the grim news that another hiker had died in Zion National Park.  Zion is a personal favorite location and I know it well, and every time someone has an accident in the area I can’t help of think of the small little details that allow these tragedy’s to occur.  I would later recall that an actor died in Death Valley National Park this year.  There is, in fact, a book series written by Michael P. Ghiglieri that emphasizes death in various National Parks and the locations of each, are places which I frequent.

Back country ethics forced me to help a girl not drive this road in a acura.
Looking down at the Lippincott Mine Road from the Lippincott Mine, with Saline Valley in the distance.

To be sure, although stories like these grab attention and headlines I am sure that they are overblown in their publicity and for the most park the National Parks are safe.  The drama in each example is that we all visit there locations and with rare exception we all return with photo graphs and memories to last a life.  Many of this accidents are preventable, with the understanding the hindsight is always clear, I still can’t help but wonder what would happen should I ever find myself in a one of these situation?

Prior to any trip, I check and double checked my gear list.  The list changes depending upon time of year, destination, etc… but known the less I try to anticipate potential issues while I am loading the jeep.  The jeep is always packed with a first add kit, tools, 2 meter ham and CB radio, area maps, cell phone, extra water, fuel and food.  This is standard operating procedure for us.

During our weekend in Racetrack Valley we ran into a total of four other vehicles over the course of 24 hours.  Of these autos, two were in need of some assistance and I was more than happy to provide help.  The first car was a new Jeep Grand Cherokee which appeared to be just off the lot.  The Grand Cherokee is a great car, and they just had a flat tire.  The racetrack playa road claims many tires each year, and the owner was able to get the tire changed in just a few minutes.  The flat tire was a minor issue and they were soon on their way, although there had to be careful because they did not have a true spare tire but rather one of those light weight little donuts tires.

After an overnight stay at the Homestake dry camp, we left for our day full of explorations.  After a brief stop at the Lippincott Mine we headed north towards Teakettle Junction.  Upon arrival, our plan was to head east towards Hunter Mountain, however before we could make the turn the driver of a parked white Infinity coupe flagged us down requesting help.  So, I stopped the jeep, got out and walked towards the Infinity.  Our of the car, a woman in her 20’s or early 30’s stepped out of the car.  She was dressed like she was going to a summer bar-be-queue, complete with perfume, tight shorts, stylish shoes and make up in place.  So, seventeen miles in the back country of Death Valley National park, she pulled out a cheap gas station map and asked for directions.

Lippencott Mine Road from Racetrack Valley, Death Valley National Park, CA
Lippencott Mine Road from Racetrack Valley, Death Valley National Park, CA

I took a minute for me to completely comprehend what was being asked of me.  So, she starts out, pointing to Teakettle Junction of the map and asks if she was in fact “there”.  I told her “Yes, this is Teakettle Junction” which is funny to me since Teakettle Junction has a huge sign which reads “Teakettle Junction”, which is turn, is covered with about 50 Teakettles.  To which she points in the area of Saline Valley and tells me she is meeting her friends and wanted to know if she should take “this road” and points to the Lippincott Mine Road.  For those how are not aware, the Lippincott Mine Road is a non-maintained steep 4×4 trail with a sheer cliff on one side.  This is not the sort of thing you should try in an Infinity coupe with no low range and street tires and I told her politely that she is foolish for thinking  of it.  She responded, “yeah, my friend told me that.”

TeaKettle Junction lets you know you are starting to get close to the Racetrack.
TeaKettle Junction lets you know you are starting to get close to the Racetrack.

To summarize now, I ran into someone, clearly not prepared for her environment, who did not listen to the advice of her friend, and is now asking for directions, 17 miles down a wash-boarded road, from a complete stranger.  I suggest that she turn around, head back to the highway, and jump on the pavement and take the long way around.  To which, she asked about “this road” and she points to the “Hunter Mountain Road”.  I told her that I didn’t know about the condition of “that road”, and my guess is that the road was more of the same of what she had already done, but “I hasten to add, I am not sure.”  She thanked me, and just as I left I told her to “turn around”.  I jumped back in the Jeep and went on to my next destination, the Lost Burro Mine.

After some time at Lost Burro, lunch and some further exploration a front arrived in the area and rain began to fall.  We made our may make down to the Hunter Mountain Road.  Prior to ending our trip, I want to run down to some other mines as the rain fell harder.  At which point, I noticed that we were following fresh street tire tracks on the road.  The car in front of us lost traction as it struggle to climb out of a sandy 6 inch gully which would not been an issue for any small SUV, but a different story from an Infinity car.  Each turn we were surprised not to find this woman, stuck by the side of the road with a flat tire or something else.  Mile after mile we followed the tracks until we reached our final destination at the Quakenbush Mine, at this point the turned around and ended our trip.

On the drive home, my lovely wife Heather and I discussed her situation.  We both agree that she was stupid for putty herself in danger.  She did not listen to her friend.  She did not appear prepared for anything, yet alone the back country of Death Valley.  I potentially saved her life that day, but I can’t help but wonder if I should have been more firm or blunt in getting her to turn around.  But then again, would it have mattered?  She already ignored her friends advice.

Where does my obligation to help end? Or does it ever end?  Of coarse, if our paths crossed deep in the Hunter Mountain Road we would completely helped her out and ensure her safety.  However, if you have an dealing with an adult, presumably of sound mind, when is enough help, enough?  She wasn’t in danger sitting at Teakettle Junction.  She is probably made her destination and  is probably safe and sound.  She probably still does not realize the potential danger of her situation that day.  I believe I talked her out of the Lippincott Mine Road “shortcut”, but I don’t know.  Perhaps, a series of small seemingly unimportant events was already cascading to push her towards her destiny which can only be seen with hindsight.  Perhaps, I interrupted the series of unfortunate events and removed a chapter from Mr. Ghiglieri’s next book

Death Valley, Spring 2002

Death Valley was a bit different from my experience last year. Last year, we explored the northern valley and drove over 250 miles per day. This year our goal was to see the central valley. My usual plan is to explore during the day, and scout locations. When the sun’s rays grow long in the afternoon, I am quickly off to take photos

The trip started with a short drive over to the ghost town of Skidoo for various mine exploring. The town itself is long since gone but, the the hills remain riddle with hundreds of mines, tailings, and tunnels. The only structure that remains is the mill, but the structure is now marked unstable, and explorers are discouraged from entering the site.

Thunderstorm in Death Valley National Park
Thunderstorm in Death Valley National Park

Later on this day, I took a hike out into the Dunes. I found it very  frustrating to see the huge volume of tracks from previous hikers and explorers. The majority of whom, seemed determined to continually stand or walk along the fragile ridges of the wind swept dunes. Compost ion proved to be a nightmare, and I did not want to bring home an image with foot prints in it. I continued on my way, dune after dune after dune. I found my subject on the far end of the dunes. Over one more ridge and the sand turned back into the wasteland that is the central valley floor. The image I saw in my head, was a low angle shot that pushed the depth of field, with a shallow sweeping curve of the dune ridge created by the strong desert winds. I did not get the exact composition that I was looking for, but the results have there own charm. I the failing desert light, I headed back across the dunes with my brother and arrived in camp well after sundown.

The next day in the valley typified the valley for me. In the morning we headed off for Darwin Falls, and I had some success. Later in the day, we encountered a violent wind storm. Sand rose hundreds of feet into the air, as I watched my chances for more work in the dunes vanish under the shifting sands. I might risk my self out in that storm, but I wouldn’t dare sand blast my camera lens in these harsh conditions. I spent the evening light enjoying a cocktail as I watch the sunset. I snapped a few of the sunset, but the light failed to turn, and I only really capture a far off desert sand storm.

We awoke the final day, and as the sun peaked over the horizon, the now familiar winds began again with a vengeance. Our camp was pummeled under the onslaught, as we watched as another campers tent gently flew overhead at an altitude of about 75 feet, and take off across the desert at high speeds. The majority of the day was spent traveling around the main valley hot sports. Even in early April, we could feel the heat of this place.

Sand dunes near Stovepipe Wells in Death Valley National Park
Sand dunes near Stovepipe Wells in Death Valley National Park

As the day waned, my brother and I drove towards the yellow hills of Zabriskie Point. Our friend the wind continued to follow us, and fellow visitors laughed a bit when they say me composing image with my camera, and putting all of the 6’1″ frame on top of the tripod to pin the camera to the earth to prevent distortion caused by the wind. It was under these conditions that I missed my first great shot. We by car in the hills above Zabriskie Point. While driving I took a quick glance in the side mirror and saw the most brilliant golden hue I have ever seen. My brother must have thought me insane as I slammed on the breaks, turned off the road, and grabbed my camera. I took off running. I needed some high ground to compose my shot. The late afternoon sun managed to piece the blackening ski, and found the yellow hills. The resulting color and light can never be described. Unfortunately, I was 5 seconds too late. As I opened the shutter, the intensity of light failed along with my opportunity.

Death Valley, Spring 2001

Thunderstorm in Death Valley National Park
Thunderstorm in Death Valley National Park

This was my first photographic trip since purchasing my new camera, and getting back into the hobby. My companions included my father, brother and a family friend. Our original plan was to have an unstructured excursion into the back country of the Death Valley. Armed with two 4×4’s we figured we could go most places that we wanted to visit. We did not know where we would end up on any one night, and would plan the day as we went.

We took off from LA Wednesday night and drove up to Lone Pine to get an early start on Thursday. We camped overnight in the foothills of Mt. Whitney.

Thursday – March 8th

We awoke early in the morning, broke camp and drove into Lone Line for Breakfast. Then we proceeded North on 395 towards Big Pine. After a customary stop to see the elk herd, we continued north until we started East on the 168. Our rough idea was to run down Saline Valley on this day. However, a snow pack did not allow us to make the turn off. Although we did have the 4 by’s, our idea to have them get us out of trouble, and not into trouble, so we made our first plan change here. So we altered plans and headed off towards the Eureka Sand Dunes for lunch. After exploring the sand dunes for a while, we back tracked a few miles and headed off towards Crankshaft Crossing.

At Crankshaft Crossing, we headed north to explore the area a bit. After several hours, and a few miles, we soon realized that one of our navigators made a mistake, and could be get us back to the main road. After a few stops to reconnoiter, we found our selves back on the main road, and headed towards the Mesquite Springs camp ground for the night and a few well earned bottles of beer.

Friday – March 9th

Rhyolite, Nevada 1909
Rhyolite, Nevada 1909

We again packed up our entire camp and head off towards the Death Valley itself. We stopped for a quick visit at the Keene Wonder Mine. After the mine stop, we headed east Ryolite, but made the turn off towards Leadfield and Titus Canyon. We spent hours driving down Titus Canyon and exploring Leadfield and the various mines in the area. Titus Canyon is truly impressive, but a rain shower forced us down the canyon a bit faster than we would have liked.

After our egress from Titus Canyon, we headed north for a late lunch at Scotty’s Castle. On a round about trip back to Mesquite Springs, we stopped by Ubehebe Crater.

Saturday – March 10th

We awoke again early, and after lunch, headed out towards Race Track valley. I have never been to the race track, but after exploring several mines on the way found it a truly impressive structure. After lunch we then headed out towards the main valley, but no before some foolishness. Allow me to explain.

My father loves toys, but doesn’t necessarily admit it. So, today he finds his son out in Death Valley with a new camera. When I purchased the camera, the main feedback with I received from my father was to question whether or not I “needed” an auto-focus SLR with film advance at 3.5 fps. He did not disagree with me on my choice, he just questioned it a bit and thought that it would be a great way for me to “waste” film. So, here we are, out in the middle of no where in Death Valley, and my dad wants to play with my camera. So, when I hand it to him, he asks me to put the camera into auto film advance, predictive auto-focus, etc. While I drive trough a giant puddle on the road next to the race track by dad proceeds to shoot 18 frames on film in about 5 seconds! He later said that it was OK and still correct since HE was wasting MY film.

We drove all the way down down to the Artist’s palette, Devils Golf course, and a few other locations. We finally header out to Lone Pine to enjoy an easy drive home on Sunday.

Sunday – March 11th

We drove down to Lone Pine to gas up to our trip down 395. After gassing up, my brother’s Toyota would start. Although a great truck, it choose this day to act up and would not start. After diagnosing the problem, my brother and I drove up to Bishop to purchase the $17 part and then back. Once we got back, we were merrily heading down the valley and posted highway speeds.

We had a great time on the trip, but made a few mistakes. The photographing had some great opportunities, but I failed to capture an image that I am cruelly happy with. I have posted several of them here for narrative purposes.