Tag: Mojave

The Mojave Desert, located in the southwestern United States, is a striking landscape characterized by vast expanses of arid terrain and rugged mountains. Spanning parts of California, Nevada, Utah, and Arizona, it is known for its iconic Joshua trees, which dot the sandy plains alongside hardy shrubs and cacti adapted to the harsh desert environment. The Mojave Desert experiences extreme temperatures, with scorching hot summers and chilly winters, while its unique geological features include ancient lava flows, dry lake beds, and towering sand dunes. This desert region is not only a testament to resilience in nature but also harbors a rich diversity of wildlife and holds a cultural significance as a home to indigenous peoples and a backdrop for explorers and adventurers alike.

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve

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Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve
Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Photo by James L Rathbun.

Established in 1976, the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve is located just west of Mojave and boasts the most consistent blooms that the California Poppy.  The reserve does not plant or water the flowers, so the timing and abundance of the flowers is solely dependent upon rainfall each year.  The bloom season begins late winter and may last throughout the spring depending upon conditions.  In addition to the poppy, the Reserve also hosts a variety of species including Owl’s Clover, Davy Gilia, Goldfields, Lupine and Cream Cups.

The 1745 acre flower reserve ranges in elevation frim 2600 to 3000 feet in elevations and boasts 7 miles of trails.  There are limited facilities, but the reserve does have some wheel chair access.

The California Poppy the state flower of California.
The California Poppy the state flower of California. Photo by James L Rathbun.

The California Poppy ( Eschscholzia californica ) is a small perennial is typically a short flowering planet which boasts a vibrant orange bloom.  The flower itself grows on top of a sledder stalk and the four petal flower which has a silky texture, appears extremely delicate and vulnerable to the elements.  The flowers open each morning and close in the evening with the cooler air.

A Davey Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies. Photo by James L Rathbun.
A Davy Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies. Photo by James L Rathbun.

The California Poppy has a large range which included more of California, parts of Oregon, Washington, Nevada, Arizona and Northern Baja California.

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Map

Jedediah Strong Smith – Nevada State Historic Marker 84

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Jebediah Strong Smith was an early frontiersman, hunter, trapper, author, cartographer, mountain man and explorer of the western United States and the subject of Nevada State Historic Marker number 84.

Drawing of Jedediah Strong Smith (1799–1831), created around 1835 after his death by a friend from memory. It is the only contemporary image of Smith.
Drawing of Jedediah Strong Smith (1799–1831), created around 1835 after his death by a friend from memory. It is the only contemporary image of Smith.

Born in 1799 in Jericho, New York, Jedediah Strong Smith would grow up to become one of the most significant figures in the exploration of the American West during the early 19th century. His life was a testament to the indomitable spirit of discovery that characterized the era of westward expansion.

From a young age, Jebediah Smith exhibited an insatiable curiosity and an adventurous spirit that set him apart from his peers. Raised in a family of modest means, he received only limited formal education. However, his voracious appetite for learning and his natural inclination for exploration propelled him beyond the confines of the classroom.

Fur Trapping and the Path to the West

At the age of 21, Smith embarked on his first western expedition as a fur trapper, a career choice that would shape the course of his life. He joined the Rocky Mountain Fur Company and ventured into the untamed wilderness of the Rocky Mountains, determined to carve his own path in uncharted territories. His experiences during this period honed his survival skills and deepened his connection to the natural world.

The First Overland Expedition to California:

In 1826, Smith led a pioneering expedition that would take him and his small band of explorers on an arduous journey from the Great Salt Lake to California. This remarkable feat marked the first documented overland journey from the United States into California. Smith’s exploration helped to map previously unknown regions and establish crucial trade routes.

Mapping the West and Bridging Cultures

Jebediah Smith’s exploration efforts were not limited to geography alone. His interactions with various Native American tribes and his ability to communicate across cultural divides showcased his adaptability and diplomacy. He valued the knowledge and insights of the indigenous peoples he encountered, contributing to a more nuanced understanding of the American West.

Jebediah Strong Smith’s legacy is imprinted on the landscapes he traversed and the narratives he helped to shape. His meticulous journaling and mapping laid the groundwork for further expeditions, encouraging subsequent generations of explorers to continue pushing the boundaries of the known world. Smith’s untimely death at the hands of Comanche warriors in 1831, at the age of 32, underscored the risks and sacrifices inherent in his chosen path.

Jebediah Strong Smith’s life epitomized the restless spirit of exploration that defined the era of westward expansion in the United States. His contributions to mapping the American West, fostering cross-cultural connections, and inspiring future adventurers are enduring testaments to his remarkable journey. As a trailblazer who ventured into the unknown with courage and determination, Smith’s legacy continues to inspire individuals to seek new horizons and embrace the thrill of discovery.

Jedediah Strong Smith Nevada State Historic Marker 84 Text

Nevada State Historical Markers identify significant places of interest in Nevada’s history. The Nevada State Legislature started the program in 1967 to bring the state’s heritage to the public’s attention with on-site markers. These roadside markers bring attention to the places, people, and events that make up Nevada’s heritage. They are as diverse as the counties they are located within and range from the typical mining boom and bust town to the largest and most accessible petroglyph sites in Northern Nevada Budget cuts to the program caused the program to become dormant in 2009. Many of the markers are lost or damaged.

From May to June 1827, explorer and trapper Jedediah Smith found a route from California’s central valley to the Great Salt Lake Valley in Utah.  He became the first European American to completely cross what is now Nevada.

Because Smith’s journal and map have never been found, his exact route is unknown.  Based on Smith’s own statements about his difficult trip, modern historians and geographers have pieced together the most plausible route.  Smith crossed the Sierra Nevada at Ebbetts Pass, swung southeast along or across the headwaters and middle reaches of the Walker River, and passed into central Nevada’s open spaces south of Walker Lake.

Smith entered Smoky Valley on its southwest side in June 1827 and crossed the valley in a northeasterly direction.  He then paralleled the future Simpson survey, route of the Pony Express and Overland Stage, along modern U.S. Highway 50.

He entered Utah at Ibapah.

STATE HISTORICAL MARKER NO.  84
STATE HISTORIC PRESERVATION OFFICE
WHITE PINE PUBLIC MUSEUM, INC.

Nevada State Historic Marker 84 Map

Nevada State Historic Marker number 84 is located near Ely, Nevada, in White Pine County. The marker is on U.S. Highway 93, on the east side of the highway. It is found in rest area, four miles north of Ely. 

Nevada State Historic Marker 84 Summary

NamedJedediah Strong Smith
LocationWhite Pine County, Nevada
Latitude, Longitude39.2771, -114.8463
Nevada State Historic Marker84

References

Chuck Yeagers NF-104 Crash Site

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On December 10, 1963, Chuck Yeager, a legendary test pilot, crashed while flying an F-104 Starfighter at Edwards Air Force Base in the Mohave Desert of California. The incident resulted in serious injuries for Yeager and the grounding of the entire NF-104 fleet.

NF-104 Starfighter under rocket propulsion.
NF-104 Starfighter under rocket propulsion.

Background

The NF-104 and F-104 are both variants of the Lockheed F-104 Starfighter aircraft, but they have some significant differences.

The F-104 is a supersonic jet fighter aircraft that was developed in the late 1950s for the United States Air Force (USAF). It was widely used by many countries, including Canada, Italy, Germany, and Japan. The F-104 had a single engine and was designed to be a high-performance interceptor aircraft. It had a maximum speed of Mach 2.2 and was capable of flying at high altitudes.

The NF-104, on the other hand, was a modified version of the F-104 that was used for high-altitude flight training. The “NF” stands for “NASA Flight” because it was used by the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) for astronaut training. The NF-104 was fitted with a rocket engine that allowed it to climb to higher altitudes than the F-104. The ceiling of the aircraft was supposed to be 125,000 feet. It was also equipped with a reaction control system (RCS) that allowed it to simulate the handling characteristics of a spacecraft.

Overall, the main differences between the F-104 and the NF-104 are that the latter had a rocket engine and RCS, which made it suitable for high-altitude flight training, while the former was a high-performance interceptor aircraft.

Chuck Yeager, on the other hand, was a highly experienced test pilot with a distinguished career. He was the first person to break the sound barrier in level flight, flying the Bell X-1 in 1947. Yeager was also known for his contributions to the development of several other aircraft, including the F-86 Sabre, the F-100 Super Sabre, and the B-58 Hustler.

The Crash

On December 10, 1963, Yeager was conducting a test flight of an NF-104 Starfighter equipped with a rocket engine at Edwards Air Force Base in California. The purpose of the flight was to evaluate the aircraft’s performance at high altitudes and high speeds. Yeager was flying at an altitude of 80,000 feet and a speed of Mach 1.5 when he experienced a loss of control.

According to Yeager’s account of the incident, he had just completed a steep climb to 108,000 feet and was beginning to level off when the aircraft suddenly pitched up and rolled to the left. Yeager attempted to recover the aircraft using the reaction control thrusters on. and applying opposite rudder and aileron, but the NF-104 continued to roll and dive and eventually fell into a flat spin.. Yeager ejected from the aircraft at an altitude of around 8,500 feet and landed safely, but he suffered several injuries, including a broken collarbone, several ribs, a punctured lung and severe burns to his face.

Investigation

Chuck Yeagers NF-104 crash site is located in the Mojave Desert
Chuck Yeagers NF104 crashed in the Mojave Desert

Following the crash, the United States Air Force launched an investigation to determine the cause of the incident. The investigation revealed that the F-104 had a notoriously difficult flight envelope, with a high stall speed and a tendency to enter a flat spin at high angles of attack. The investigation also revealed that Yeager had been flying with a faulty attitude indicator, which may have contributed to the loss of control.

However, the investigation ultimately concluded that the cause of the crash was pilot error. The investigation found that Yeager had exceeded the aircraft’s design limitations by flying at an altitude and speed that were beyond the F-104’s safe operating range. The investigation also found that Yeager had not received adequate training on the F-104 and had not been briefed on the risks associated with flying the aircraft at high altitudes and speeds.

Consequences

The consequences of the NF-104 crash were significant. The incident highlighted the dangers of flying high-performance aircraft without adequate training and briefing. As a result, the United States Air Force grounded the entire NF-104 fleet until additional training and safety measures could be implemented. The incident also led to changes in the way that test pilots were trained and briefed on new aircraft.

In 1922, the movie Top Gun: Maverick featured a similar incident written into the story of the movie. Tom Cruise’s character, Maverick is attempting to reach a new speed record or Mach 10, when, at high alititude he is forced to bail our of the experimental plane he was piloting.

Crash Location

Chuck Yeager’s NF-104 cam to rest in the Mohave Desert, just west of I-14 and south of California City Blvd.

Summary

NameChuck Yeagers NF-104 Crash Site
LocationMojave Desert, Los Angles County, California
Date of IncidentDecember 10th, 1963
Latitude, Longitude35.1236, -118.1469

References

YB-49 Crash Site

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The YB-49 was a prototype jet-powered flying wing aircraft designed and built by Northrop Corporation in the 1940s and 1950s. On June 5, 1948, the YB-49 experienced a catastrophic crash near Mojave in Los Angeles County, California, which resulted in the death of all five crew members on board. Captain Glen Edwards was the co-pilot of the flight, and the namesake of Edwards Air Force Base. The crash was a significant event in aviation history, as it raised questions about the safety of experimental aircraft and the future of jet-powered flight.

On June 5, 1948, the YB-49 experienced a catastrophic crash that resulted in the death of all five crew members on board.
On June 5, 1948, the YB-49 experienced a catastrophic crash that resulted in the death of all five crew members on board.

The YB-49 was designed as a successor to the earlier Northrop XB-35 flying wing bomber, which had been developed during World War II. The YB-49 was a radical departure from traditional aircraft design, with no tail or fuselage and a single large wing that housed the crew, engines, and weapons. The aircraft was powered by eight General Electric J35 turbojet engines and was capable of speeds up to 500 miles per hour and altitudes up to 40,000 feet.

On the day of the crash, the YB-49 took off from Muroc Air Force Base in California for a test flight. The flight was routine until about an hour into the flight, when the aircraft suddenly went into an uncontrolled spin and crashed into the desert floor. The cause of the crash was later determined to be a malfunction in the aircraft’s flight control system, which caused the elevons (the wing-mounted control surfaces that control pitch and roll) to become stuck in a partially raised position. This caused the aircraft to become unstable and enter the spin.

Brave Men Lost

The crash of the YB-49 cost these men their lives:

  • Major Daniel H. Forbes, Jr. – Pilot
  • Captain Glen W. Edwards – Copilot
  • Lt. Edward L. Swindell – Flight Engineer
  • Clare C. Lesser – Air Force civilian engineers
  • Charles H. LaFountain – Air Force civilian engineers

Muroc AFB was renamed Edwards AFB on December 5, 1949 in honor of the late Capt. Glen W Edwards

The crash of the YB-49 was a major setback for Northrop Corporation, which had invested significant time and resources into the development of the flying wing design. It also raised concerns about the safety of experimental aircraft and the need for more rigorous testing and evaluation of new designs before they are put into service. In the years following the crash, Northrop continued to develop and refine the flying wing design, eventually leading to the development of the B-2 stealth bomber, which entered service with the U.S. Air Force in the 1990s.

The crash of the YB-49 was a tragic event that highlighted the risks and challenges of experimental aircraft design. However, it also spurred innovation and development in the aviation industry, leading to the creation of new and advanced aircraft designs that continue to shape the field of aviation today.

YB-49 Crash Site Location summary

NameYB-49 Crash Site
LocationMojave Desert, Los Angeles County, California
Latitude, Longitude35.04243, -117.9926

YB-49 Trail Map

The YB-49 came to rest East of Mojave just North of Highway 58. The site contains a small memorial and one should remember that this is the location of the deaths of five brave men.

References

Happy Bottom Riding Club

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Pancho Barnes, Happy Bottom Riding Club. Photo Curtesy of the U.S. Air Force
Pancho Barnes, Happy Bottom Riding Club. Photo Curtesy of the U.S. Air Force

The Happy Bottom Riding Club was a legendary dude ranch and restaurant located in the Mojave Desert in California. The club was opened by aviator and screenwriter Pancho Barnes in the 1930s and quickly became a popular hangout for Hollywood celebrities, pilots, and other socialites.

The History of the Happy Bottom Riding Club

Pancho Barnes, born Florence Lowe Barnes in 1901, was a pioneering aviatrix who set numerous speed and altitude records in the early days of aviation. She was also a talented screenwriter who worked on several Hollywood films, including “Hell’s Angels,” directed by Howard Hughes.

In the 1930s, Barnes purchased a ranch in the Mohave and converted it into a private airfield. She named it the Happy Bottom Riding Club, after the nickname she earned as a pilot for her daring landings in dry lakebeds. The airfield quickly became a popular destination for pilots and aviation enthusiasts, who would fly in for weekend parties and barnstorming exhibitions.

Barnes also built a large clubhouse on the property, which she turned into a nightclub. The club was decorated with aviation memorabilia and had a western-themed bar and dance floor. Barnes hosted lavish parties at the club, inviting Hollywood celebrities, politicians, and other high-profile guests.

The Happy Bottom Riding Club was famous for its rowdy, freewheeling atmosphere. Barnes was known for her colorful personality and love of partying, and she encouraged her guests to let loose and have fun. The club was also known for its raunchy sense of humor and off-color jokes.

Despite its reputation as a wild party spot, the Happy Bottom Riding Club was also a place of innovation and progress. Barnes used the club as a base for her aviation business, which included flight instruction, aircraft maintenance, and aerial photography. She also provided a space for women pilots to gather and share their experiences in a male-dominated industry.

Decline of the Happy Bottom Riding Club

In the 1950s, the government took over her airfield and turned it into a military base. Barnes was forced to sell her property and move her business elsewhere. The club was a favorite haunt of many test pilots and future astronauts, perhaps the most famous was Chuck Yaeger who became the first man to break the sound barrier.

The Happy Bottom Riding Club continued to operate under new ownership for a few more years, but it was never the same without Barnes’ larger-than-life personality at the helm. The club eventually closed its doors in the 1950s and the building was demolished.

Despite its relatively short lifespan, the Happy Bottom Riding Club remains a legendary spot in aviation and Hollywood history. The ranch is destroyed by fire on November 13, 1953. Today, the ranch is located on land controlled by Edwards Air Force base.

Legacy of the Happy Bottom Riding Club

Today, the Happy Bottom Riding Club lives on in popular culture as a symbol of a bygone era of glamour, adventure, and fun. It has been referenced in movies, TV shows, and music, and continues to inspire people around the world to pursue their dreams and live life with gusto.

In 1988, a group of aviation enthusiasts founded the Pancho Barnes Trust Estate, which works to preserve Barnes’ legacy and promote aviation education. The organization has hosted several events and fundraisers over the years, including a biennial fly-in at the Mojave Air and Space Port.

In 2009, a feature film about Barnes’ life and career, titled “The Legend of Pancho Barnes and the Happy Bottom Riding Club,” was released. The film, directed by Amanda Pope, received critical acclaim and helped introduce Barnes’ story to a new generation.

References