Tag: Mojave

The Mojave Desert, located in the southwestern United States, is a striking landscape characterized by vast expanses of arid terrain and rugged mountains. Spanning parts of California, Nevada, Utah, and Arizona, it is known for its iconic Joshua trees, which dot the sandy plains alongside hardy shrubs and cacti adapted to the harsh desert environment. The Mojave Desert experiences extreme temperatures, with scorching hot summers and chilly winters, while its unique geological features include ancient lava flows, dry lake beds, and towering sand dunes. This desert region is not only a testament to resilience in nature but also harbors a rich diversity of wildlife and holds a cultural significance as a home to indigenous peoples and a backdrop for explorers and adventurers alike.

Darwin California – Inyo County Ghost Town

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Darwin is a unincorporated community, gold mining town and ghost town located in Inyo County, California about 22 miles from Keeler. The town was named for Darwin French, who lead a party of prospectors into Death Valley in 1860 looking for the mythical gunsight lode. This prospecting eventually lead to the wash, canyon and town named in his honor.

The site which became Darwin was formed in 1874 following a discovery of lead and silver. The overall grwoth of the town was limited by its water supply which is piped from over eight miles away. This discovery coincided with near by Panamint, although the rush to Darwin was more muted. Darwin has a population of about 700 at this time.

The Coso Mining News published weekly from 1875 – 1878 by T.S. Harris. The newspaper closed in September 1878 and the publisher moved up north to Bodie. The moved of the newspaper is symptomatic and followed by many others including miners seeker greener pastures. The town of Darwin had a remaining population of about 250 people. Despite the plunging population the town still supported six saloons, four stores, three restaurants and a drug store. Between the years of 1874 and 1877 newspapers reported at least 80 murders.

Darwin is a rarity and survived its original boom. The town remained viable until World Was I, when larger mining operations could profit of lower yielding ores. A post office opened in 1875 and closed in 1902. Eventually, the post office reopened and remains open today.

The Darwin Store run by Reynolds and Etcharren Partners, 1906. | Photo: Courtesy of the Eastern California Museum.
The Darwin Store run by Reynolds and Etcharren Partners, 1906. | Photo: Courtesy of the Eastern California Museum.

Darwin Today

In 2011, a documentary called Darwin is available on Amazon Prime. The documentary is described, “Propelled from society by tragic turns, the isolated community of Darwin, Death Valley (population 35) must now find ways to coexist in a place without a government, a church, jobs, or children.” I did watch the documentary and found it interesting. However, its focus was on the people living there now and not much on the history.

Recently, Brent Underwood, owner of Cerro Gordo featured Darwin on his youtube channel. He was scrounging old boards from buildings in Darwin to help rebuild Cerro Gordo. I am not sure how I feel about damaging one old town to rebuild another…

Darwin Town Summary

NameDarwin, California
LocationInyo County, California
Latitude, Longitude36.268056 -117.591667
Elvation4,790 ft ( 1460 m )
GNIS241269
Population3500
Post OfficeOpen
NewspaperCoso Mining News ( Nov. 6, 1875 – Sept. 4, 1878 )

Darwin Town Map

Resources

Kelso Depot

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The story of the westward expansion is the story of the railroads.  Beginning in 1862, the Union Pacific Railroad sought expansion opportunities along the western coast of the United States.  To secure a foothold into California the railroads must cross the Mojave Desert and the depot in Kelso was crucial to accomplish this goal.  Located at the junction of Kelbaker Road and the Kelso Cima Road, the Kelso Depot stands in testimony of the technological progress of the nations trains.

Kelso Depot, Mojave CA
Kelso Depot, Mojave CA

August of 1900, Montana Senator William A. Clark invested in a small Los Angeles based railway which would become the San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt Lake Railroad.  In 1902, in mine owner made a deal to sell half of the stock to the Union Pacific even before the railway was completed.

William A Clark
William A Clark

In 1905, after 235 miles of track are laid, three warehouse men placed their names in a hat and drew out the winner John Kelso, for whom track siding #16 of the Salt Lake route was named.    Later in 1905, Kelso was just one depot along the Salt Lake Route which now stretched from San Pedro, CA to Salt Lake City Utah.  This new route opened southern California to the Union Pacific Railroad.  In 1921, Union Pacific convinced Senator Clark to sell his remaining shares.

Additionally, in 1905 Senator Clark divested himself of some land in southern Nevada along another rail stop.  This auction is considered the birth of Las Vegas, and Clark Country was named for the man.

San Pedro, Los Angeles, and Salt Lake Railroad locomotive #32, early 1900s
San Pedro, Los Angeles, and Salt Lake Railroad locomotive #32, early 1900s

Built in 1921, The Kelso Depot is architecturally styled as a Mission Revival and just one of several depots along the route which were designated as division points and provided facilities for operations and maintenance purposes.   The buildings original design included a telegraph office, conductor’s room, baggage room, staff dormitories, a billiard room, library and locker. The spring water in the nearby Providence mountains allowed the location to service the steam engines.  Additionally, the relatively steep 2% 2000 foot grade necessitated the use of helper engines by the steam locomotives of the day to crest the Kessler Summit.

Other depot locations

  • Lynndyl, Utah
  • Milford, Utah
  • Las Vegas, Nevada
  • Caliente, Nevada
  • Yermo, California
  • San Bernardino, California

Union Pacific continued to operate the depot from 1921 to 1985.  The depot provided much need infrastructure during World War 2, at which point the facility started a long decline in utility.  Diesel engines improved efficiency and duration allowed the Union Pacific railroad to reduce their personnel requirements.  The 1960’s introduced the second generation of more powerful and efficient diesel engines which eliminated the need for the helper engines.  Combined with the cessation of passenger travel in August, 1964 the Kelso depot is destined to languish on the back roads of history.  The Kelso Depot ceased operations as a train depot in 1962.

The Kelso Depot is currently in use as a Visitors Center of the Mojave National Preserve.

Kelso Depot Trail Map

References

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve

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Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve
Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Photo by James L Rathbun.

Established in 1976, the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve is located just west of Mojave and boasts the most consistent blooms that the California Poppy.  The reserve does not plant or water the flowers, so the timing and abundance of the flowers is solely dependent upon rainfall each year.  The bloom season begins late winter and may last throughout the spring depending upon conditions.  In addition to the poppy, the Reserve also hosts a variety of species including Owl’s Clover, Davy Gilia, Goldfields, Lupine and Cream Cups.

The 1745 acre flower reserve ranges in elevation frim 2600 to 3000 feet in elevations and boasts 7 miles of trails.  There are limited facilities, but the reserve does have some wheel chair access.

The California Poppy the state flower of California.
The California Poppy the state flower of California. Photo by James L Rathbun.

The California Poppy ( Eschscholzia californica ) is a small perennial is typically a short flowering planet which boasts a vibrant orange bloom.  The flower itself grows on top of a sledder stalk and the four petal flower which has a silky texture, appears extremely delicate and vulnerable to the elements.  The flowers open each morning and close in the evening with the cooler air.

A Davey Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies. Photo by James L Rathbun.
A Davy Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies. Photo by James L Rathbun.

The California Poppy has a large range which included more of California, parts of Oregon, Washington, Nevada, Arizona and Northern Baja California.

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Map

Jedediah Strong Smith – Nevada State Historic Marker 84

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Jebediah Strong Smith was an early frontiersman, hunter, trapper, author, cartographer, mountain man and explorer of the western United States and the subject of Nevada State Historic Marker number 84.

Drawing of Jedediah Strong Smith (1799–1831), created around 1835 after his death by a friend from memory. It is the only contemporary image of Smith.
Drawing of Jedediah Strong Smith (1799–1831), created around 1835 after his death by a friend from memory. It is the only contemporary image of Smith.

Born in 1799 in Jericho, New York, Jedediah Strong Smith would grow up to become one of the most significant figures in the exploration of the American West during the early 19th century. His life was a testament to the indomitable spirit of discovery that characterized the era of westward expansion.

From a young age, Jebediah Smith exhibited an insatiable curiosity and an adventurous spirit that set him apart from his peers. Raised in a family of modest means, he received only limited formal education. However, his voracious appetite for learning and his natural inclination for exploration propelled him beyond the confines of the classroom.

Fur Trapping and the Path to the West

At the age of 21, Smith embarked on his first western expedition as a fur trapper, a career choice that would shape the course of his life. He joined the Rocky Mountain Fur Company and ventured into the untamed wilderness of the Rocky Mountains, determined to carve his own path in uncharted territories. His experiences during this period honed his survival skills and deepened his connection to the natural world.

The First Overland Expedition to California:

In 1826, Smith led a pioneering expedition that would take him and his small band of explorers on an arduous journey from the Great Salt Lake to California. This remarkable feat marked the first documented overland journey from the United States into California. Smith’s exploration helped to map previously unknown regions and establish crucial trade routes.

Mapping the West and Bridging Cultures

Jebediah Smith’s exploration efforts were not limited to geography alone. His interactions with various Native American tribes and his ability to communicate across cultural divides showcased his adaptability and diplomacy. He valued the knowledge and insights of the indigenous peoples he encountered, contributing to a more nuanced understanding of the American West.

Jebediah Strong Smith’s legacy is imprinted on the landscapes he traversed and the narratives he helped to shape. His meticulous journaling and mapping laid the groundwork for further expeditions, encouraging subsequent generations of explorers to continue pushing the boundaries of the known world. Smith’s untimely death at the hands of Comanche warriors in 1831, at the age of 32, underscored the risks and sacrifices inherent in his chosen path.

Jebediah Strong Smith’s life epitomized the restless spirit of exploration that defined the era of westward expansion in the United States. His contributions to mapping the American West, fostering cross-cultural connections, and inspiring future adventurers are enduring testaments to his remarkable journey. As a trailblazer who ventured into the unknown with courage and determination, Smith’s legacy continues to inspire individuals to seek new horizons and embrace the thrill of discovery.

Jedediah Strong Smith Nevada State Historic Marker 84 Text

Nevada State Historical Markers identify significant places of interest in Nevada’s history. The Nevada State Legislature started the program in 1967 to bring the state’s heritage to the public’s attention with on-site markers. These roadside markers bring attention to the places, people, and events that make up Nevada’s heritage. They are as diverse as the counties they are located within and range from the typical mining boom and bust town to the largest and most accessible petroglyph sites in Northern Nevada Budget cuts to the program caused the program to become dormant in 2009. Many of the markers are lost or damaged.

From May to June 1827, explorer and trapper Jedediah Smith found a route from California’s central valley to the Great Salt Lake Valley in Utah.  He became the first European American to completely cross what is now Nevada.

Because Smith’s journal and map have never been found, his exact route is unknown.  Based on Smith’s own statements about his difficult trip, modern historians and geographers have pieced together the most plausible route.  Smith crossed the Sierra Nevada at Ebbetts Pass, swung southeast along or across the headwaters and middle reaches of the Walker River, and passed into central Nevada’s open spaces south of Walker Lake.

Smith entered Smoky Valley on its southwest side in June 1827 and crossed the valley in a northeasterly direction.  He then paralleled the future Simpson survey, route of the Pony Express and Overland Stage, along modern U.S. Highway 50.

He entered Utah at Ibapah.

STATE HISTORICAL MARKER NO.  84
STATE HISTORIC PRESERVATION OFFICE
WHITE PINE PUBLIC MUSEUM, INC.

Nevada State Historic Marker 84 Map

Nevada State Historic Marker number 84 is located near Ely, Nevada, in White Pine County. The marker is on U.S. Highway 93, on the east side of the highway. It is found in rest area, four miles north of Ely. 

Nevada State Historic Marker 84 Summary

NamedJedediah Strong Smith
LocationWhite Pine County, Nevada
Latitude, Longitude39.2771, -114.8463
Nevada State Historic Marker84

References

Chuck Yeagers NF-104 Crash Site

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On December 10, 1963, Chuck Yeager, a legendary test pilot, crashed while flying an F-104 Starfighter at Edwards Air Force Base in the Mohave Desert of California. The incident resulted in serious injuries for Yeager and the grounding of the entire NF-104 fleet.

NF-104 Starfighter under rocket propulsion.
NF-104 Starfighter under rocket propulsion.

Background

The NF-104 and F-104 are both variants of the Lockheed F-104 Starfighter aircraft, but they have some significant differences.

The F-104 is a supersonic jet fighter aircraft that was developed in the late 1950s for the United States Air Force (USAF). It was widely used by many countries, including Canada, Italy, Germany, and Japan. The F-104 had a single engine and was designed to be a high-performance interceptor aircraft. It had a maximum speed of Mach 2.2 and was capable of flying at high altitudes.

The NF-104, on the other hand, was a modified version of the F-104 that was used for high-altitude flight training. The “NF” stands for “NASA Flight” because it was used by the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) for astronaut training. The NF-104 was fitted with a rocket engine that allowed it to climb to higher altitudes than the F-104. The ceiling of the aircraft was supposed to be 125,000 feet. It was also equipped with a reaction control system (RCS) that allowed it to simulate the handling characteristics of a spacecraft.

Overall, the main differences between the F-104 and the NF-104 are that the latter had a rocket engine and RCS, which made it suitable for high-altitude flight training, while the former was a high-performance interceptor aircraft.

Chuck Yeager, on the other hand, was a highly experienced test pilot with a distinguished career. He was the first person to break the sound barrier in level flight, flying the Bell X-1 in 1947. Yeager was also known for his contributions to the development of several other aircraft, including the F-86 Sabre, the F-100 Super Sabre, and the B-58 Hustler.

The Crash

On December 10, 1963, Yeager was conducting a test flight of an NF-104 Starfighter equipped with a rocket engine at Edwards Air Force Base in California. The purpose of the flight was to evaluate the aircraft’s performance at high altitudes and high speeds. Yeager was flying at an altitude of 80,000 feet and a speed of Mach 1.5 when he experienced a loss of control.

According to Yeager’s account of the incident, he had just completed a steep climb to 108,000 feet and was beginning to level off when the aircraft suddenly pitched up and rolled to the left. Yeager attempted to recover the aircraft using the reaction control thrusters on. and applying opposite rudder and aileron, but the NF-104 continued to roll and dive and eventually fell into a flat spin.. Yeager ejected from the aircraft at an altitude of around 8,500 feet and landed safely, but he suffered several injuries, including a broken collarbone, several ribs, a punctured lung and severe burns to his face.

Investigation

Chuck Yeagers NF-104 crash site is located in the Mojave Desert
Chuck Yeagers NF104 crashed in the Mojave Desert

Following the crash, the United States Air Force launched an investigation to determine the cause of the incident. The investigation revealed that the F-104 had a notoriously difficult flight envelope, with a high stall speed and a tendency to enter a flat spin at high angles of attack. The investigation also revealed that Yeager had been flying with a faulty attitude indicator, which may have contributed to the loss of control.

However, the investigation ultimately concluded that the cause of the crash was pilot error. The investigation found that Yeager had exceeded the aircraft’s design limitations by flying at an altitude and speed that were beyond the F-104’s safe operating range. The investigation also found that Yeager had not received adequate training on the F-104 and had not been briefed on the risks associated with flying the aircraft at high altitudes and speeds.

Consequences

The consequences of the NF-104 crash were significant. The incident highlighted the dangers of flying high-performance aircraft without adequate training and briefing. As a result, the United States Air Force grounded the entire NF-104 fleet until additional training and safety measures could be implemented. The incident also led to changes in the way that test pilots were trained and briefed on new aircraft.

In 1922, the movie Top Gun: Maverick featured a similar incident written into the story of the movie. Tom Cruise’s character, Maverick is attempting to reach a new speed record or Mach 10, when, at high alititude he is forced to bail our of the experimental plane he was piloting.

Crash Location

Chuck Yeager’s NF-104 cam to rest in the Mohave Desert, just west of I-14 and south of California City Blvd.

Summary

NameChuck Yeagers NF-104 Crash Site
LocationMojave Desert, Los Angles County, California
Date of IncidentDecember 10th, 1963
Latitude, Longitude35.1236, -118.1469

References