Vanderbilt California – San Bernardino County Ghost Town

A metal headframe marks a vertical shaft in the mining district outside of Vanderbilt California.
A metal headframe marks a vertical shaft in the mining district outside of Vanderbilt California.

Vanderbilt, California, was a fleeting but vibrant gold mining town located in the New York Mountains near the California-Nevada border, approximately 40 miles north of Goffs, California, within what is now the Mojave National Preserve. Existing primarily between 1891 and 1895, Vanderbilt epitomized the boom-and-bust cycle typical of late 19th-century Western mining settlements. Named optimistically after the wealthy Vanderbilt family in hopes of mirroring their fortune, the town’s history reflects the rapid excitement and subsequent abandonment that characterized many gold rush communities.

Old Plumbing remains in the town of Vanderbilt, CA
Old Plumbing remains in the town of Vanderbilt, CA

Discovery and Founding (1891–1892)

The story of Vanderbilt begins in January 1891, when a Native American prospector named Robert Black discovered gold ore on the north slope of the New York Mountains. This initial strike sparked interest, and a small mining camp soon formed near Vanderbilt Spring, a vital water source in the arid region. The camp remained modest until the fall of 1892, when additional gold-rich veins were uncovered, triggering a rush to the area. By January 1893, the settlement had grown to approximately 150 residents, living in a makeshift community of 50 tents, supported by two stores, a saloon, three restaurants, a lodging house, a blacksmith shop, and a stable.

The town’s name, “Vanderbilt,” was chosen to evoke the prosperity of the prominent American industrialist family, signaling the miners’ ambitions for wealth. The discovery of gold in the Gold Bronze, Sagamore, and Boomerang mines fueled optimism, drawing prospectors, merchants, and adventurers to the remote desert location.

Vanderbilt Business District
Vanderbilt Business District

Peak Prosperity (1893–1894)

Virgil Earp 1843 -1905
Virgil Earp 1843 -1905

Vanderbilt reached its zenith in 1894, with a population estimated at around 400 residents. During this period, the town developed into a bustling hub with a well-defined business district. Historical accounts describe a lively community featuring three saloons, two barbers, a Chinese restaurant, two additional eating houses, two meat markets, a stationery and fruit store, one lodging house, two blacksmiths, and three general stores. William McFarlane, a pioneer from nearby Ivanpah, operated one of these stores, which also housed the post office and a drugstore.

A notable figure associated with Vanderbilt was Virgil Earp, the older brother of Wyatt Earp and a survivor of the infamous Gunfight at the O.K. Corral. According to Earp family historians, Virgil owned the town’s only two-story building, a combination hotel and saloon. His wife, Allie Earp, later recalled that the structure also hosted church services and dances, suggesting a semblance of community life amid the rough mining environment.

In 1894, two ten-stamp mills were constructed to process ore from the Gold Bronze and Boomerang mines, marking the height of Vanderbilt’s industrial activity. These mills were essential for crushing ore and extracting gold, and their completion signaled the town’s economic peak. However, this prosperity was short-lived, as geological challenges soon emerged.

Decline and Abandonment (1895–Late 1890s)

Vanderbilt’s downfall began almost as quickly as its rise. Around the same time the mills were completed in 1894, miners struck water in the shafts of the principal mines. Flooding rendered the underground operations unworkable, halting gold extraction and undermining the town’s economic foundation. Without a sustainable source of wealth, residents began to abandon Vanderbilt, seeking opportunities elsewhere.

By 1895, the population had dwindled significantly, and the once-thriving town faded into obscurity. The exact date of its complete abandonment is unclear, but by the late 1890s, Vanderbilt had become a ghost town. Its brief existence left little behind beyond scattered mining relics, such as a metal headframe marking a vertical shaft, and remnants of old plumbing, which hint at its former activity.

A horizontal mine shaft in Vanderbilt
A horizontal mine shaft in Vanderbilt

Legacy and Modern Context

Today, Vanderbilt lies within the Mojave National Preserve, a protected area that preserves the region’s natural and historical features. The town’s coordinates are approximately 35°19’38.20″N, 115°14’59.14″W, near the modern gambling hub of Primm, Nevada. While no standing structures remain, the site serves as a testament to the transient nature of mining boomtowns in the American West.

Exploring the ghost town of Vanderbilt, CA
Exploring the ghost town of Vanderbilt, CA

Vanderbilt’s history reflects broader themes of the late 19th-century gold rush: speculative ambition, rapid growth fueled by mineral wealth, and abrupt collapse due to environmental and economic realities. Though short-lived, the town contributed to the lore of the Wild West, with its connection to figures like Virgil Earp adding a layer of historical intrigue.

Vanderbilt, California, encapsulates the ephemeral nature of mining settlements in the American frontier. From its founding in 1891 to its peak in 1894 and its decline by 1895, the town’s trajectory mirrors countless others that rose and fell with the fortunes of the earth. Though little remains of Vanderbilt today, its story endures as a snapshot of a bygone era, preserved in historical records and the stark desert landscape it once briefly animated.

Town Summary

Town NameVanderbilt
LocationSan Bernardino County, California
Latitude, Longitude35.327222, -115.249722
Population500
Elevation4350 Feet
NewspaperThe Shaft
Post OfficeFebruary 1893 – 1910

Vanderbilt Trail Map

Further Reading

Darwin California – Inyo County Ghost Town

Darwin is a unincorporated community, gold mining town and ghost town located in Inyo County, California about 22 miles from Keeler. The town was named for Darwin French, who lead a party of prospectors into Death Valley in 1860 looking for the mythical gunsight lode. This prospecting eventually lead to the wash, canyon and town named in his honor.

The site which became Darwin was formed in 1874 following a discovery of lead and silver. The overall grwoth of the town was limited by its water supply which is piped from over eight miles away. This discovery coincided with near by Panamint, although the rush to Darwin was more muted. Darwin has a population of about 700 at this time.

The Coso Mining News published weekly from 1875 – 1878 by T.S. Harris. The newspaper closed in September 1878 and the publisher moved up north to Bodie. The moved of the newspaper is symptomatic and followed by many others including miners seeker greener pastures. The town of Darwin had a remaining population of about 250 people. Despite the plunging population the town still supported six saloons, four stores, three restaurants and a drug store. Between the years of 1874 and 1877 newspapers reported at least 80 murders.

Darwin is a rarity and survived its original boom. The town remained viable until World Was I, when larger mining operations could profit of lower yielding ores. A post office opened in 1875 and closed in 1902. Eventually, the post office reopened and remains open today.

The Darwin Store run by Reynolds and Etcharren Partners, 1906.  |  Photo: Courtesy of the Eastern California Museum.
The Darwin Store run by Reynolds and Etcharren Partners, 1906. | Photo: Courtesy of the Eastern California Museum.

Darwin Today

In 2011, a documentary called Darwin is available on Amazon Prime. The documentary is described, “Propelled from society by tragic turns, the isolated community of Darwin, Death Valley (population 35) must now find ways to coexist in a place without a government, a church, jobs, or children.” I did watch the documentary and found it interesting. However, its focus was on the people living there now and not much on the history.

Recently, Brent Underwood, owner of Cerro Gordo featured Darwin on his youtube channel. He was scrounging old boards from buildings in Darwin to help rebuild Cerro Gordo. I am not sure how I feel about damaging one old town to rebuild another…

Darwin Town Summary

NameDarwin, California
LocationInyo County, California
Latitude, Longitude36.268056 -117.591667
Elvation4,790 ft ( 1460 m )
GNIS241269
Population3500
Post OfficeOpen
NewspaperCoso Mining News ( Nov. 6, 1875 – Sept. 4, 1878 )

Darwin Town Map

Resources

Kelso Depot

The story of the westward expansion is the story of the railroads.  Beginning in 1862, the Union Pacific Railroad sought expansion opportunities along the western coast of the United States.  To secure a foothold into California the railroads must cross the Mojave Desert and the depot in Kelso was crucial to accomplish this goal.  Located at the junction of Kelbaker Road and the Kelso Cima Road, the Kelso Depot stands in testimony of the technological progress of the nations trains.

Kelso Depot, Mojave CA
Kelso Depot, Mojave CA

August of 1900, Montana Senator William A. Clark invested in a small Los Angeles based railway which would become the San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt Lake Railroad.  In 1902, in mine owner made a deal to sell half of the stock to the Union Pacific even before the railway was completed.

William A Clark
William A Clark

In 1905, after 235 miles of track are laid, three warehouse men placed their names in a hat and drew out the winner John Kelso, for whom track siding #16 of the Salt Lake route was named.    Later in 1905, Kelso was just one depot along the Salt Lake Route which now stretched from San Pedro, CA to Salt Lake City Utah.  This new route opened southern California to the Union Pacific Railroad.  In 1921, Union Pacific convinced Senator Clark to sell his remaining shares.

Additionally, in 1905 Senator Clark divested himself of some land in southern Nevada along another rail stop.  This auction is considered the birth of Las Vegas, and Clark Country was named for the man.

San Pedro, Los Angeles, and Salt Lake Railroad locomotive #32, early 1900s
San Pedro, Los Angeles, and Salt Lake Railroad locomotive #32, early 1900s

Built in 1921, The Kelso Depot is architecturally styled as a Mission Revival and just one of several depots along the route which were designated as division points and provided facilities for operations and maintenance purposes.   The buildings original design included a telegraph office, conductor’s room, baggage room, staff dormitories, a billiard room, library and locker. The spring water in the nearby Providence mountains allowed the location to service the steam engines.  Additionally, the relatively steep 2% 2000 foot grade necessitated the use of helper engines by the steam locomotives of the day to crest the Kessler Summit.

Other depot locations

  • Lynndyl, Utah
  • Milford, Utah
  • Las Vegas, Nevada
  • Caliente, Nevada
  • Yermo, California
  • San Bernardino, California

Union Pacific continued to operate the depot from 1921 to 1985.  The depot provided much need infrastructure during World War 2, at which point the facility started a long decline in utility.  Diesel engines improved efficiency and duration allowed the Union Pacific railroad to reduce their personnel requirements.  The 1960’s introduced the second generation of more powerful and efficient diesel engines which eliminated the need for the helper engines.  Combined with the cessation of passenger travel in August, 1964 the Kelso depot is destined to languish on the back roads of history.  The Kelso Depot ceased operations as a train depot in 1962.

The Kelso Depot is currently in use as a Visitors Center of the Mojave National Preserve.

Kelso Depot Trail Map

References

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve
Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Photo by James L Rathbun.

Established in 1976, the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve is located just west of Mojave and boasts the most consistent blooms that the California Poppy.  The reserve does not plant or water the flowers, so the timing and abundance of the flowers is solely dependent upon rainfall each year.  The bloom season begins late winter and may last throughout the spring depending upon conditions.  In addition to the poppy, the Reserve also hosts a variety of species including Owl’s Clover, Davy Gilia, Goldfields, Lupine and Cream Cups.

The 1745 acre flower reserve ranges in elevation frim 2600 to 3000 feet in elevations and boasts 7 miles of trails.  There are limited facilities, but the reserve does have some wheel chair access.

The California Poppy the state flower of California.
The California Poppy the state flower of California. Photo by James L Rathbun.

The California Poppy ( Eschscholzia californica ) is a small perennial is typically a short flowering planet which boasts a vibrant orange bloom.  The flower itself grows on top of a sledder stalk and the four petal flower which has a silky texture, appears extremely delicate and vulnerable to the elements.  The flowers open each morning and close in the evening with the cooler air.

A Davey Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies.  Photo by James L Rathbun.
A Davy Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies. Photo by James L Rathbun.

The California Poppy has a large range which included more of California, parts of Oregon, Washington, Nevada, Arizona and Northern Baja California.

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Map

Jedediah Strong Smith – Nevada State Historic Marker 84

Jebediah Strong Smith was an early frontiersman, hunter, trapper, author, cartographer, mountain man and explorer of the western United States and the subject of Nevada State Historic Marker number 84.

Drawing of Jedediah Strong Smith (1799–1831), created around 1835 after his death by a friend from memory. It is the only contemporary image of Smith.
Drawing of Jedediah Strong Smith (1799–1831), created around 1835 after his death by a friend from memory. It is the only contemporary image of Smith.

Born in 1799 in Jericho, New York, Jedediah Strong Smith would grow up to become one of the most significant figures in the exploration of the American West during the early 19th century. His life was a testament to the indomitable spirit of discovery that characterized the era of westward expansion.

From a young age, Jebediah Smith exhibited an insatiable curiosity and an adventurous spirit that set him apart from his peers. Raised in a family of modest means, he received only limited formal education. However, his voracious appetite for learning and his natural inclination for exploration propelled him beyond the confines of the classroom.

Fur Trapping and the Path to the West

At the age of 21, Smith embarked on his first western expedition as a fur trapper, a career choice that would shape the course of his life. He joined the Rocky Mountain Fur Company and ventured into the untamed wilderness of the Rocky Mountains, determined to carve his own path in uncharted territories. His experiences during this period honed his survival skills and deepened his connection to the natural world.

The First Overland Expedition to California:

In 1826, Smith led a pioneering expedition that would take him and his small band of explorers on an arduous journey from the Great Salt Lake to California. This remarkable feat marked the first documented overland journey from the United States into California. Smith’s exploration helped to map previously unknown regions and establish crucial trade routes.

Mapping the West and Bridging Cultures

Jebediah Smith’s exploration efforts were not limited to geography alone. His interactions with various Native American tribes and his ability to communicate across cultural divides showcased his adaptability and diplomacy. He valued the knowledge and insights of the indigenous peoples he encountered, contributing to a more nuanced understanding of the American West.

Jebediah Strong Smith’s legacy is imprinted on the landscapes he traversed and the narratives he helped to shape. His meticulous journaling and mapping laid the groundwork for further expeditions, encouraging subsequent generations of explorers to continue pushing the boundaries of the known world. Smith’s untimely death at the hands of Comanche warriors in 1831, at the age of 32, underscored the risks and sacrifices inherent in his chosen path.

Jebediah Strong Smith’s life epitomized the restless spirit of exploration that defined the era of westward expansion in the United States. His contributions to mapping the American West, fostering cross-cultural connections, and inspiring future adventurers are enduring testaments to his remarkable journey. As a trailblazer who ventured into the unknown with courage and determination, Smith’s legacy continues to inspire individuals to seek new horizons and embrace the thrill of discovery.

Jedediah Strong Smith Nevada State Historic Marker 84 Text

Nevada State Historical Markers identify significant places of interest in Nevada’s history. The Nevada State Legislature started the program in 1967 to bring the state’s heritage to the public’s attention with on-site markers. These roadside markers bring attention to the places, people, and events that make up Nevada’s heritage. They are as diverse as the counties they are located within and range from the typical mining boom and bust town to the largest and most accessible petroglyph sites in Northern Nevada Budget cuts to the program caused the program to become dormant in 2009. Many of the markers are lost or damaged.

From May to June 1827, explorer and trapper Jedediah Smith found a route from California’s central valley to the Great Salt Lake Valley in Utah.  He became the first European American to completely cross what is now Nevada.

Because Smith’s journal and map have never been found, his exact route is unknown.  Based on Smith’s own statements about his difficult trip, modern historians and geographers have pieced together the most plausible route.  Smith crossed the Sierra Nevada at Ebbetts Pass, swung southeast along or across the headwaters and middle reaches of the Walker River, and passed into central Nevada’s open spaces south of Walker Lake.

Smith entered Smoky Valley on its southwest side in June 1827 and crossed the valley in a northeasterly direction.  He then paralleled the future Simpson survey, route of the Pony Express and Overland Stage, along modern U.S. Highway 50.

He entered Utah at Ibapah.

STATE HISTORICAL MARKER NO.  84
STATE HISTORIC PRESERVATION OFFICE
WHITE PINE PUBLIC MUSEUM, INC.

Nevada State Historic Marker 84 Map

Nevada State Historic Marker number 84 is located near Ely, Nevada, in White Pine County. The marker is on U.S. Highway 93, on the east side of the highway. It is found in rest area, four miles north of Ely. 

Nevada State Historic Marker 84 Summary

NamedJedediah Strong Smith
LocationWhite Pine County, Nevada
Latitude, Longitude39.2771, -114.8463
Nevada State Historic Marker84

References