Kelso Depot

The story of the westward expansion is the story of the railroads.  Beginning in 1862, the Union Pacific Railroad sought expansion opportunities along the western coast of the United States.  To secure a foothold into California the railroads must cross the Mojave Desert and the depot in Kelso was crucial to accomplish this goal.  Located at the junction of Kelbaker Road and the Kelso Cima Road, the Kelso Depot stands in testimony of the technological progress of the nations trains.

Kelso Depot, Mojave CA
Kelso Depot, Mojave CA

August of 1900, Montana Senator William A. Clark invested in a small Los Angeles based railway which would become the San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt Lake Railroad.  In 1902, in mine owner made a deal to sell half of the stock to the Union Pacific even before the railway was completed.

William A Clark
William A Clark

In 1905, after 235 miles of track are laid, three warehouse men placed their names in a hat and drew out the winner John Kelso, for whom track siding #16 of the Salt Lake route was named.    Later in 1905, Kelso was just one depot along the Salt Lake Route which now stretched from San Pedro, CA to Salt Lake City Utah.  This new route opened southern California to the Union Pacific Railroad.  In 1921, Union Pacific convinced Senator Clark to sell his remaining shares.

Additionally, in 1905 Senator Clark divested himself of some land in southern Nevada along another rail stop.  This auction is considered the birth of Las Vegas, and Clark Country was named for the man.

San Pedro, Los Angeles, and Salt Lake Railroad locomotive #32, early 1900s
San Pedro, Los Angeles, and Salt Lake Railroad locomotive #32, early 1900s

Built in 1921, The Kelso Depot is architecturally styled as a Mission Revival and just one of several depots along the route which were designated as division points and provided facilities for operations and maintenance purposes.   The buildings original design included a telegraph office, conductor’s room, baggage room, staff dormitories, a billiard room, library and locker. The spring water in the nearby Providence mountains allowed the location to service the steam engines.  Additionally, the relatively steep 2% 2000 foot grade necessitated the use of helper engines by the steam locomotives of the day to crest the Kessler Summit.

Other depot locations

  • Lynndyl, Utah
  • Milford, Utah
  • Las Vegas, Nevada
  • Caliente, Nevada
  • Yermo, California
  • San Bernardino, California

Union Pacific continued to operate the depot from 1921 to 1985.  The depot provided much need infrastructure during World War 2, at which point the facility started a long decline in utility.  Diesel engines improved efficiency and duration allowed the Union Pacific railroad to reduce their personnel requirements.  The 1960’s introduced the second generation of more powerful and efficient diesel engines which eliminated the need for the helper engines.  Combined with the cessation of passenger travel in August, 1964 the Kelso depot is destined to languish on the back roads of history.  The Kelso Depot ceased operations as a train depot in 1962.

The Kelso Depot is currently in use as a Visitors Center of the Mojave National Preserve.

Kelso Depot Trail Map

References

One Tree Hill, A trip to the U2 Joshua Tree

A trip to the U2 Joshua Tree brought back a life time of memories. There was never a point in time that I was not aware of Joshua Tree’s.  Growing up in Southern California, they are a common site in the high desert and after all there is a National Park named after them.  Many nights I have spent camping in the national park and asking my dad about the Joshua Trees.  They are just so weird.   Their limbs twisted in the wind.  They thrive in the harsh desert environment, yet don’t offer much shade.  The are a symbol of the desert southwest, and perhaps would be THE symbol of the desert south west if not for the saguaro cactus.

U2's Joshua Tree - 2016
U2’s Joshua Tree – 2016
The original Joshua Tree of the Us Cover. Photo made Dec. 19, 1994 |Source= Joho345 – @U2 (www.atu2.com)
The original Joshua Tree of the Us Cover. Photo made Dec. 19, 1994 |Source= Joho345 – @U2 (www.atu2.com)

I remember exactly where I was when I was introduced to the Irish Band U2 by a close friend of mine.  Back then, they were the Irish Rock Band U2.  I was introduced to them watching a video tape copy of “Under a Blood Red Sky” and forever fell in love with my Irish compatriots.  In 1987, U2 released there next album “The Joshua Tree” which also coincided with my passing the exam for my drivers license.  I wore out by original tape and its copy driving the city of Pasadena to and from high school.  

The album tore through the consciousness of the United States and this Irish boy had a little more pride in his heritage.  The best part was that the album was named after and predominately featured photographs of the iconic image of the desert.

In May, 1987 my friend invited me to a trip to Death Valley.   As his father drove  across the desert that afternoon, my friend pointed  out the window and yelled, “There is ‘THE’ Joshua Tree”.  By the time I turned around in my seat, the tree was off in the distance.  I could not tell from the angle and distance, but the area looked about right.  We drove on, the sounds of an Irish Harmonic flowing through the speakers.  I would soon forget this conversation, a foot note of my past.

I always wanted to see the Joshua Tree of u2.  Before the internet  it was not easy to find places such as this.  They don’t put this information on maps.  Rumor and stories filled the void.  I never asked, but over the years I heard that the site of U2’s Joshua tree was not near the National Park.  I heard that someone lite it on fire.  I heard it died.  Many stories told of unprepared people dying while searching for the Joshua Tree.  All just rumors.

I never thought about the Joshua tree site until I started Destination4x4.com.  After about 10 minutes searching on the Internet, I found it.  Sadly the rumor it died proved to be true.  But then an odd thing happened.  Like many lost places of the Mojave, there is a small make shift monument to U2 at the site of the fallen tree.  The dead tree is still there, fallen to the earth around 2000 and being consumed by the harsh desert climate.  The site is located just off the CA Highway 190 between Lone Pine and Death Valley.

Within a year, of finding the Joshua Tree site, I found myself driving along the highway 190 into Lone Pine, CA.  There is no marker to the site, and no paved road to follow.  The site of the Joshua Tree is located about 100 years off of the road, which runs parallel to the highway.  After some back road creative navigation, I saw a glint of metal and the downed icon about .5 miles in front of me.

You have found what your looking for monument located at the site of U2s Joshua Tree.
You have found what your looking for monument located at the site of U2s Joshua Tree.

As I walked towards the dead Joshua Tree, I could not help but think about how silly this endeavor was.   A grown man taking his family to see a dead tree. My inner sound tracked played “Running to Stand Still” as I stepped back into the past.  Memories of high school came flooding back.  The surrounding hills morphed into the album cover.  I recalled a conversation between me and a lost friend on the highway not too far from here where he was convinced he saw this tree.  I now know he did see it.

Like many places in the Mojave, a make shift monuments lies on the site.  Undoubtedly updated with each new visitor who like me hunt down the obscure.  It is a matter of time until  a passing windstorm, dry climate and time remove any remnants of the Joshua tree.  Oddly enough, it was here alone with my small family that I understood what I what I wanted to do with Destination4x4.com.  The four us jumped back into the jeep.  I loaded up the Joshua Tree on my phone and played “Where the streets have no name” as we drove off for our next adventure.

The U2 Joshua Tree 2016
The U2 Joshua Tree 2016

Update

Just under a year after our visit to the Joshua Tree, for our wedding anniversary, Heather and I saw the band play their songs from the dessert at the Rose Bowl in Pasadena on May 20th, 2017.  I found out later that I had a case of double Pneumonia, but would not miss this for the world. The concert was a celebration of their music and the desert landscape which i love.

U2, Rose Bowl, Pasadena CA 5/20/2017
U2, Rose Bowl, Pasadena CA 5/20/2017

Davy Gilia (Gilia latiflora)

A Davey Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies in the Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve.
A Davey Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies in the Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve.

Davy Gilia (Gilia latiflora) also known as Hollyleaf gilia or broad-flowered gilia is a flowering plant commonly found in the open flats or sandy areas and can carpet the western Mojave Desert, Joshua Tree woodlands and endemic throughout California.  This wild flower grows at 2500 to 4000 feet in elevation and grows to reach about 18 inches in height.

The plant features a tiny, small, five leafed flower about one inch in diameter. The flower is is purple in color and features a white throat to offer a beautiful display. The purple flowers are known to bloom between March and May.

Typically a Southern California Flower, the Davy Gilia has been observed in southern Nevada in the areas surrounding Rhyolite and Beatty, Nevada.

This Davy Gilia was photographed in the Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve and the small purple flower was a highlight in the lush canvas of deep golden colored, California Poppies. It was common for a taller gilia flower to explode above the shorter California Poppies.

The California Poppy was the reason from my trip, however the gilia was the purple accent which made my trip.

Camp Phallus – New York Mountains

Located in Caruther’s Canyons of the New York Mountains, Camp Phallus is named for a “unique” rock formation visible from the campsite. The campsite offers a central base camp location to the Old Mojave Road and the higher elevations may offer a nice break from the heat in the warmer months. We drove down to Goffs on our trip.

Our campsite from a distance in Caruthers Canyon
Our campsite from a distance in Caruthers Canyon

 This is a primitive site, no posted sights, just a series of short trails to isolated sites, each of which can support several vehicles. All of the sites that I have seen appear to be quite large and capable of several vehicles. One of the campsites offers table top bench under a large tree which was an Eagle Scout project. Good work!

There are no restrooms at Camp Phallus in Caruthers Canyon
There are no restrooms at Camp Phallus in Caruthers Canyon

Camp Phallus beautiful place to camp and it offers cooler temperatures during to summer months due to its 5500 ft of elevation. There was deer in the area, and when we went in March, it was quite cold at this higher elevation. A nice campfire took the chill off.

My son and I waking up in the morning
My son and I waking up in the morning

This was my sons first camping trip and he did great. He loves to go camping despite the fact he threw a high temperature at night and we needed to head home early. The camp ground was clean, remote and vacant and we vowed to return again.

Camp Rock Springs

A small oasis and valuable water supply along the Old Mojave Road, Camp Rock Springs was the site of a military outpost established on December 30, 1866.  There are few remains or ruins of the old dusty outpost but a plaque to remind the visitors that men of the U.S. Army served at this remote desert post.

Camp Rock Springs, Old Mojave Road
Camp Rock Springs, Old Mojave Road

Camp Rock Springs

To the United States Soldiers of Camp

Rock Springs— who guarded the U.S. Mail.

No Glory there nor much chance for

military fame, but true patriots and heroes

were they, to submit to such privations–

Yet there are the nurseries of the army,

and from such hard schools we graduated

a grant and Sherman, Sheridan and Thomas.

General James F. Rusling USA

Bill Holcomb Chapter

E. Clampus Vitus

The sentiment of General Rusling is poignant, and the soldiers who guarded this post did so without notice from the outside world.  Few people at the time, yet alone now even knew this place existed.  Beginning in 1860 a 20 man patrol, with one officer would patrol between Camp Rock Springs and Fort Mojave to the East, twice per month, every month, to maintain and service the Mojave Road.

In 1863, a number of complaints were filed with the army recording Indian sightings and activity including 300 – 400 encamped about 30 miles to the south.  Additionally there were complaints the Native Americans were thought to be steeling cattle, however these complaints were cancelled a few days later.  If nothing else, this would seem to indicate a level of contempt and distrust towards the native population regardless, these complaints and issues kept the army in the Mojave desert busy.

Rock Springs
Rock Springs

In 1865, two men started a mining operation at the Rock Springs location.  While the two men were away, their buildings burnt and their supplies stolen.  The two men immediately became very vocal in their complaints that the government was developing the area for the government while not protective the investment of the miners.  Soon after the miners fled the area, Camp Rock Springs became and official post of the army, and is described as  “On the desert . . . very disagreeable place for the troops” in a government report.

The camp was quickly built using local building materials, however the high cost of operating the camp and the scarcity of water, despite the spring, caused the camp to close in 1868.  The duties of Camp Rock were taken over by the Camp at Marl Springs.

Camp Rock Springs
Camp Rock Springs

The site now does still have some water, and is a small oasis in the desert.  The spring does not travel more than 50 feet into the canyon before the desert claims it again.  The Camp, like the soldiers is long gone.