The Hole in the Wall Ring Trail

The Hole in the Wall Ring Trail is a short is a 1.5 miles loop trail around a hill top and through a slot canyon in the Mojave National Preserve.  The trail it self is well marked and very easy going, with the exception of 1/4 mile at the north end, through a slot canyon.  Rings are bolted into the rock to serve as hand holds and give the trail its name.

The Hole in the Wall Ring Trail is a short fun little hike in the Mojave National Preserve.
The Hole in the Wall Ring Trail is a short fun little hike in the Mojave National Preserve.

Following the Hole in the Wall Ring Trail from the visitors center south, the trail circles a hill in showcases various plants and cacti in the area.  The trail starts off fairly sandy and remains so until about the time you reach a large rock covered with petroglyphs.  You can spends hours trying to decipher the message left by our Native American community who live in the area long ago.

A snake is just one of many petroglyphs on the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.
A snake is just one of many petroglyphs on the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.

Leaving the petrogplyph rock behind, the trail travels through a meadow towards the slot canyon and near the Banshee Canyon primitive campsite.  This area in the spring time is very beautiful with a green valley floor from the low green grass spurred on my a recent spring rain.

A slot canyon begins to form towards the end of the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.
A slot canyon begins to form towards the end of the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.

As you leave Banshee Canyon behind, the walls being to narrow down into a slot canyon.  As you hike into the slot canyon the walls continue to narrow until you reach the points you can touch each side of the Canyon at the same time.    The final push of the hike is about a 50 foot elevation gain and some of the elevation gain is accomplished via the ring hand holds bolted into the wall.

My son Ryan showing the proper technique for climbing the rings, on the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.
My son Ryan showing the proper technique for climbing the rings, on the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.

Mid Hills Campground, Mojave National Preserve

Located in deep in the heart of the Mojave National Preserve there is an abundance of campsites to suit everyone.  The Mid Hills campground was an after thought on a recent trip in March, 2018, however the location and charm of this spot make it a new favorite destination.

Mid Hills Campsite in the Mojave National Preserve March 2018 after a rainstorm.
Mid Hills Campsite in the Mojave National Preserve March 2018 after a rainstorm.

In March 2018, I decided to take my son on our first father and son camping trip, just the boys.  We scoured maps and picked destinations and points of interest.  He was very excited to hike the Ring Trail and we opted over-night at Hole in the Wall campground.

I picked him up from school with the Jeep loaded and we drove down Nipton Road deep into the isolated areas of the Mojave.  We arrived at Hole in the Wall campground and with the sun starting to set discovered that the campground was full of motor homes and jeepers.  No place to camp.  We opted for ‘Plan B’ and headed north.

We arrived at the campground with just a few minutes to setup before the sun went down.  I was pleased that the campground was mostly empty, and the large campsites were physically spacious and located some distance away from each other.

Our tent located in a large campsite in the Mid Hills Campground in the Mojave National Preserve.
Our tent located in a large campsite in the Mid Hills Campground in the Mojave National Preserve.

That night we focused on dinner and building a campfire, which was a bit difficult with a bunch of wet tinder and fuel.  Fortunately, the Eagle Scout prevailed any my son and I roasted some march mallows and made some smores.  That evening as the cold wet air enveloped us we explored the cosmos with a telescope before falling asleep under a magnificent display.  The morning was a bit damp and silent.  Only now could I appreciate the beauty and drama located in this campground.

The campground sites within a stand of pinyon pine and juniper trees.  Sadly, on June 1st, 2005, lightning strikes started the Hackberry Fire with burned through the campground and 70,736 surrounding acres.  Twelve years later, there are still scars within the campground.  Long dead and burnt juniper trees juxtapose with new growth provides evidence of the enduring properties of nature.

The campground offers pit toilets, fire rings, tables and ample room.  The 5000 ft elevation offers cold nights in the winter months, however would offer some relief from the summers heat.  There are no ultilities, hook-ups or potable water.  There are 26 campsites, which will cost you are $12 a night and are available on a first come first serve basis.

Mid Hills Campground Map

Speckled Rattlesnake ( Crotalus mitchellii )

The Speckled Rattlesnake is fairly common pit viper found in southern California, southern Nevada, western Arizona and south-western Utah and down the Pacific coast into Baja California.  A moderate size snake, this animal typically does not exceed 39 inches in length.  As with most animals, the Speckled Rattlesnake is a master of disguise and commonly are colored to compliment the surrounding rock.  This viper can range from pink, cream, tan or pale blues and grays.  This feature I can personally attest to as I witnessed and entire Cub Scout Pack literally step over the specimen photographed below while hiking on a camping trip in the Valley of Fire State Park just outside of Las Vegas, Nevada.

Juvenile Speckled Rattle Snake found in Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada
A Juvenile Speckled Rattlesnake found in Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada
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Joshua Tree (Yucca brevifolia)

The Joshua Tree was named for the biblical character by the Mormon Setters as they crossed the Mojave Desert in the mid 19th century.  It is told that the tree reminded the early Mormon’s of Joshua who, much like the tree, held his hands up in prayer.  From these humble beginnings, this tree and its undulating shadows have become of an icon of the desert southwest.

Joshua Tree located in the Mojave National Preserve.
Joshua Tree located in the Mojave National Preserve.
Natural distribution of Yucca brevifolia - U.S. Geological Survey - Digital representation of "Atlas of United States Trees" by Elbert L. Little, Jr.
Natural distribution of Yucca brevifolia – U.S. Geological Survey – Digital representation of “Atlas of United States Trees” by Elbert L. Little, Jr.

Joshua Trees are found in the desert southwest at elevations between 1300 and 5900 feet.  A member of the Yucca family, the Joshua can live several hundred years and grow up to 30 feet tall and have a trunk up to 3 feet in diameter.  The tree trunk contains many small fibers and does not contain growth rings as with typical trees.  A top heavy branched tree it can develop an impressive and deep root system which can reach 31 feet deep.

Joshua Tree Bloom are found in the spring month in the Mojave National Preserve. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Blooms are found in the spring month in the Mojave National Preserve. Photograph by James L Rathbun

During the spring months of February, March and April, white flowers signal be beginning of spring for the Joshua Tree.  Flowering is dependent upon both an adequate amount of rain and a freeze.  Once flowered, the Joshua Tree is dependent upon the Yucca month for pollination.

New trees can develop from the roots of existing tree from Rhizomes, however the Yucca moth is required to create new stands of trees from the seeds.

This yucca plant inspired a National Park in Southern CA, which is a favorite location to visit.  The symbol of the high desert, the tree is the name sake of a famous Irish rock band, which is also a favorite.

Goffs California – San Bernardino County Ghost Town

Originally known as Blake, Goffs, California is a small unincorporated community located off of Route 66 in the Mojave desert near the Piute Mountains.  Originally named for Isaac Blake, builder of the Nevada Southern Railway, the town was named Goffs in 1902, when it served as a railway stop, and housing for the Santa Fe Railroad.

Goffs, CA
Goffs California

In 1914, Goffs built a schoolhouse which served 1000 square miles of the surrounding desert.  The students were primarily children of railroad employees, miners and Mexican immigrant families.  The school continued to function as a educational facility until it’s closure in 1937 when the Goffs School District was merged with  the nearby Needles school district.  During World War II, the “Mission Revival” building served as a canteen for the Desert Training Center, which trained US servicemen for the hardships of desert life in preparation for the African Campaign.

Goffs Schoolhouse, Mojave, CA
Goffs Schoolhouse, Mojave, CA

Today, the Goffs school house is used by the Mojave Desert Heritage and Cultural Associations and a museum and cultural center.  The schoolhouse was recognized on the National Register of Historic Places on Aug 7th, 2001.  ( #01001102 )

Goffs California found it’s way onto my list of cool places by accident on a family vacation along the Old Mojave Road.  The first day in, we camped in the New York Mountains.  We scheduled a rest day where we could drive the jeeps with a non burden suspension and explore the Mojave Dessert.  Almost as an after-thought, we headed towards Goffs not knowing what to expect or who we would find.

As we pulled into the area, we could see a windmill and a couple of buildings which are located behind a locked gate.  We decided to get out to stretch a bit, and after a few minutes I noticed a man driving up in a golf cart.  At first I was concerned that some old desert hermit was investigating trespassers on his land, and was immediately surprised when this man opened the gate and invited us onto his property.  It turned our that this man was Dennis Casebier, the man who wrote the book and rediscovered the Old Mojave Road.

Hitchin a ride with the fascinating Dennis Casebier
Hitchin a ride with the fascinating Dennis Casebier

That afternoon, we spent a good portion of the day with the fascinating Mr. Casebier.  He told us how he retired to Goffs in the 1990’s and worked to protect the history of the area.   He relived the days of searching and marking off the Old Mojave Road by building rock cairns, hundreds of them.  He told the stories of the military activity in the area during World War II.  He offered us a complete tour of his land and collection of mining equipment, stamp mills, train equipment, etc…

Preserving the Old Mojave Road and the history of the area is Mr. Casebier’s work. At the time, he showed us a 2 stamp stampmill that he restored into working condition and share his plans to assemble a 10 stamp mill which he recently acquired.  I understand that he now has this mill working as well, so I need to schedule another trip down to Goffs.

As we were leaving, we thanked him for his hospitality and for opening up for us.  He replied that he could not ignore a couple of dirty jeeps driving down the road.

That night, around the campfire I reflected on how fortunate I was to meet Dennis Casebier.  I felt privileged, and yet, I suspect that I really was not that lucky.  I imagine this that I am one of many, who drove down the road into Goffs and talk with Dennis Casebier.

Functioning Stampmill, Goffs, CA
Functioning Stampmill, Goffs, CA

Further Reading

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