Owens Lake Steamships

Today it is difficult to imagine, but at one time not so long ago, Owens Lake Steamships ferried supplies and silver ore across Owens Lake from the booming silver town of Cerro Gordo, California. Cerro Gordo was a booming silver town located at high elevations in the White Mountains above the tree line. Water and fuel are hauled up the mountain utilizing freight wagons to support the silver mines.

Cerro Gordo overlooking the then full Owens Lake.
Cerro Gordo overlooking the then full Owens Lake.

Owens Lake, nestled in the Owens Valley of California, was once a shimmering gem nestled beneath the towering Sierra Nevada mountains. Spanning over 100 square miles, it was a vital oasis for diverse wildlife and a haven for migratory birds. Its glassy surface reflected the surrounding peaks, creating a picturesque landscape beloved by locals and travelers alike. With its abundant water and fertile shores, it supported Native American communities for centuries. However, as Los Angeles began to grow in the late 19th century, demands for water led to the diversion of the Owens River, gradually desiccating Owens Lake and leaving behind a vast salt flat.

Mortimer Belshaw (1830 - 1899 )
Mortimer Belshaw (1830 – 1899 )

Cerro Gordo was a silver mining town located high in the White Mountains east of Owens Lake. The elevation of the town offered some unique challenges in terms of supplies, such as water and fuel. Infrastructure to support the mines and the community needed to be built by Mortimer Belshaw. These supplies are staged in Keeler, CA and hauled up to the town using teams of wagons and a tramway. It is a natural step to build a ferry system to facilitate the transfer of goods, services and more importantly silver bars produce at Cerro Gordo.

Owens Lake itself faced a significant transformation in the 20th century. The Los Angeles Aqueduct, completed in 1913, diverted water from the Owens River, which fed the lake, to Los Angeles. This diversion caused Owens Lake to dry up, transforming it into a largely dry lakebed with environmental and health issues due to dust storms.

Bessie Brady

1950 Painting by William McKeever of the Bessie Brady is on display at the Eastern California Museum in Independence, CA.  This image probably does not resemble the actual appearance of the vessel.
1950 Painting by William McKeever of the Bessie Brady is on display at the Eastern California Museum in Independence, CA. This image probably does not resemble the actual appearance of the vessel.

The Bessie Brady made its maiden voyage on July 4, 1872. Measuring about 85 feet in length with a 19-foot beam, the vessel could carry up to 100 tons of cargo, significantly reducing the time and cost of transporting ore. The ship’s route ran from the town of Swansea, near the western shore of Owens Lake, to Cartago on the southern shore. From Cartago, the ore was transported to Los Angeles. The steamer was actually so efficient in hauling silver ore to Cartago Landing, near Olancha, Ca, that the bullion began to pile up. The teamsters who hauled the Silver Ore from Olancha to Los Angeles, simply could not keep up with the vessel.

The introduction of the Bessie Brady revolutionized transportation in the Owens Valley. It provided a more reliable and faster means of moving ore from the Cerro Gordo Mines to markets, boosting the local economy. The steamship also transported supplies and passengers, further integrating the remote mining community with the rest of California.

The success of the Bessie Brady was relatively short-lived. By the mid-1870s, the completion of the Carson and Colorado Railroad reduced the need for lake transport. The railroad provided an even more efficient means of moving goods and people, leading to a decline in the use of the steamship.

Despite its decline, the Bessie Brady continued to operate for several years, serving various purposes, including transporting salt from the lake’s evaporative salt works.

NameBessie Brady
Other Names“The Pioneer inland steamer of the Pacific Coast”
Years of OperationJune 27, 1872 – May 11, 1882
Length85 feet
Beam16 feet
Propulsion20 HP Single Cylinder Oscillating Type Steam
10 inch cylinder bore and 10 inch stroke
Propeller54 inches

Molly Stevens

The Molly Stevens was a steamboat built in the late in 1877 and launched on in May of that year by Colonel Sherman Vanderventer Stevens. It was named after Molly Stevens, in honor of his daughter Molly.. The vessel was is smaller than the Bessie Perl, but does boast of more powerful powerplant. A few days after its’ maiden voyage, the steamship is swamped in the heavy wind driven lake waters. She is raised again to the surface with the help of the Bessie Brady.

By 1878, the Molly Stevens is only making the occasional trip across the Lake and spends the majority of her time moored. In 1881, the vessels is hauling from $6,000 in bullion a week, which is produced by nearby mills. Due to lack of hauling efficiency, the Molly Stevens is again moored and eventually scrapped in the spring of 1882.

On May 11th, 1882, during a refitted of the more powerful steam plant from the Molly Stevens to the Bessie Brady a fire breaks. The fire is started spontaneously by a combination of the Oakum, oil, paint and tar. The inferno quickly takes hold and destroys the last of the steamships on Owens Lake.

The Molly Stevens and Bessie Brady played a crucial role in the economic development of the Owens Valley. By transporting ore efficiently across Owens Lake, these vessels helped boost the mining industry, which was the backbone of the local economy. The presence of the two steamships reduced the time and cost associated with overland transport, making mining operations more profitable.

Molly Stevens Characteristics

NameMolly Stevens
Years of operation1877 – 1882

The Lost Treasure of the Bessie Brady

One other incident, which is not documented, is the alleged existence of a lost treasure in Owens Lake. Allegedly, a wagon load of bullion hauled by the Bessie Brady is swept overboard during a high wind storm. The tale is told that the heavy bullion-filled wagon was not correctly chained to the deck and simply swept over the side.

The story could be from a combination of events, such as the swamping and sinking of the Molly Stevens.

Seemingly a rumor, the Lost Treasure of the Bessie Brady seems to always originate from a person who allegedly heard from someone who knew the captain.

References

Julius M. Keeler

Julius M. Keeler ( 
16 Jul 1823 - 28 Jan 1890 )
Julius M. Keeler ( 16 Jul 1823 – 28 Jan 1890 )

Julius M. Keeler, a prominent figure in the development of the American West, was born on June 4, 1838, in Binghamton, New York. His early years were marked by a strong work ethic and a fascination with the burgeoning opportunities that the western frontier promised. These qualities would drive him to become a significant contributor to the mining and transportation industries of his time.

Keeler’s journey westward began during the California Gold Rush. In the early 1860s, he moved to California, drawn by the allure of fortune and the chance to make a name for himself. He initially worked in various mining camps, gaining firsthand experience in the challenges and rewards of mining life. His intelligence and knack for problem-solving quickly set him apart, and he began to acquire small stakes in successful mining ventures.

By the late 1870s, Keeler had established himself as a savvy and resourceful entrepreneur. His involvement with the Cerro Gordo Mines in the Inyo Mountains of California marked a turning point in his career. Alongside investors like Mortimer Belshaw, Keeler recognized the immense potential of the rich silver and lead deposits in the region. Their combined efforts transformed Cerro Gordo into one of the most productive mining operations in California.

Keeler’s role at Cerro Gordo extended beyond mining. Understanding the critical need for efficient transportation of ore, he spearheaded the construction of a wagon road to connect the remote mining camp with the Owens Valley. This road, later complemented by the narrow-gauge Carson and Colorado Railway, was crucial in ensuring the economic viability of the mines by facilitating the transport of ore to smelters and markets.

In recognition of his contributions to the region, the town of Keeler, California, was named in his honor. The town served as a vital shipping point for the Cerro Gordo Mines and played a significant role in the local economy. Under Keeler’s influence, the area saw improvements in infrastructure and living conditions, benefiting both the mining community and the broader region.

Beyond his achievements in mining and transportation, Julius M. Keeler was known for his philanthropic endeavors. He supported various community initiatives, including the establishment of schools and healthcare facilities. His commitment to improving the lives of those around him reflected his belief in the potential of the American West as a place of opportunity and growth for all its inhabitants.

Keeler’s later years were spent overseeing his various business interests and continuing his philanthropic work. He remained a respected figure in the community until his death on January 15, 1908. His legacy is remembered through the lasting impact of his contributions to the mining industry and the development of the Owens Valley region.

Julius M. Keeler’s life story is a testament to the spirit of innovation, determination, and community-mindedness that characterized the American frontier during its most transformative years. His work not only advanced the economic prospects of his time but also laid the groundwork for future generations to thrive in the West.

References

Mortimer William Belshaw

Mortimer Belshaw (1830 - 1899 )
Mortimer Belshaw (1830 – 1899 )

Mortimer William Belshaw, often remembered for his significant contributions to the mining industry in the American West, was born on November 30, 1833, in New York City. His early life was marked by a keen interest in geology and engineering, which would later shape his career and legacy.

Belshaw moved to California during the Gold Rush era in search of fortune and adventure. His arrival in California coincided with a period of intense economic and industrial development, particularly in mining. Belshaw’s technical skills and innovative mindset quickly distinguished him from many of his contemporaries. He initially worked in various mining operations, gaining valuable experience and knowledge about the industry.

In the early 1860s, Belshaw became involved with the Cerro Gordo Mines in the Inyo Mountains of California. This venture would become his most notable achievement. Recognizing the potential of the rich silver and lead deposits in the area, Belshaw partnered with other investors to develop the mines. His engineering expertise was crucial in overcoming the significant logistical challenges posed by the remote and rugged location of the mines.

Belshaw’s most famous contribution to the Cerro Gordo Mines was the construction of an innovative transportation system known as the Belshaw Tramway. This aerial tramway, one of the earliest of its kind, was designed to transport ore from the mines to the smelters more efficiently than traditional methods. The tramway significantly boosted the productivity of the Cerro Gordo Mines, leading to a period of substantial economic success for Belshaw and his partners.

Under Belshaw’s management, the Cerro Gordo Mines became one of the most productive mining operations in California during the late 19th century. The wealth generated from the mines contributed to the growth and development of the surrounding region, including the establishment of the town of Cerro Gordo, which became a bustling mining community.

Beyond his technical achievements, Belshaw was known for his fair treatment of workers and his efforts to improve working conditions in the mines. He believed in the importance of safety and welfare for his employees, which was relatively progressive for the time. This approach not only garnered loyalty from his workforce but also set a precedent for more humane labor practices in the mining industry.

Belshaw’s success at Cerro Gordo allowed him to invest in other mining ventures and businesses, further cementing his status as a prominent figure in the mining industry. Despite facing various challenges, including fluctuating metal prices and occasional legal disputes, Belshaw’s entrepreneurial spirit and resilience ensured his continued influence in the field.

Mortimer Belshaw passed away on January 19, 1905, leaving behind a legacy of innovation and progress in the mining industry. His contributions to mining engineering and his commitment to improving labor conditions remain influential, highlighting his role as a pioneer in the development of modern mining practices.

Cerro Gordo California – Inyo County Ghost Town

Located in the Inyo Mountains on the eastern side of Owens Valley, Cerro Gordo California is a currently a ghost town after almost 100 years in operation from 1866 to 1957.  Several buildings still survive, including the general store, assay offices and hoist house. Cerro Gordo, spanish for “Fat Hill” is located on private land and permission to visit must should be obtained.

Cerro Gordo overlooking the then full Owens Lake.
Cerro Gordo overlooking the then full Owens Lake.

The town site is currently on the ridge of the mountain range, and accessible from either the western side in Owens Valley, or from the East from the Saline Valley Road.  Founding of the site is credited to Pablo Flores who began mining near Buena Vista Peak.  Initial development of the area was hindered by Native American activity in the area.  The establishment of Fort Indepence helped “control” this activity and the amount of activity in Cerro Gordo increased.  Early efforts were primitive with most mines being open pits or trenches and smelting was done in adobe ovens.

Mortimer Belshaw
Mortimer Belshaw

The location began to develop with the foundation of the first store at Cerro Gordo by Independence businessman Victor Beaudry.  He soon acquired several claims in exchange for payment of debt at his store and soon built two smelters.  

In 1868, Mortimer Belshaw established a partnership with another stakeholder the Union Mine.  He secured financing from Los Angeles, and built the first road, a toll road known as the “Yellow Road”, which gave him a lot of control over shipments coming down the mountain.

Cerro Gordo was famously a rough and tumble town and claims that a murder a week was commonplace. Water is not available at the townsite and several attempts were made from bring the life sustaining liquid to the town. For a time, water was piped in from several springs many miles away. The springs dried up when the Owens Lake was drained by Los Angeles in the 1920’s. Water was brought up by burro and for a time it was pumped up from 600 feet down the Union Mine. The ore was delivered down hill to Keeler utilizing an aerial tramway. From Keeler, the ore was transported some 275 miles to the small port city of Los Angeles.

The townsite was place for sale and the ghost town was sold for $1.4 million dollars along with some 360 acres surrounding and 22 structures remaining. The development group which features Brent Underwood is hoping to turn the town into a destination of sorts. While undergoing renovations, the American Hotel burnt down on June 15th, 2020 along with the ice house and a nearby residence. Brent Underwood is currently living full time in the town and uploads videos about once per week on a YouTube channel.

It is clear from his videos that Mr. Underwood has a passion for the area, the town, the history and some point, I would love to pay him a visit.

Town Summary

NameCerro Gordo
LocationInyo County, California
Latitude, Longitude36.53771, -117.795031
GNIS220862
Elevation8500 feet
Population4000

Cerro Gordo Trail Map

Resources

Cerro Gordo Books

Cerro Gordo (Images of America) written by Cecile Page Vargo, Roger W. Vargo

Cerro Gordo (Images of America)

Cerro Gordo (Images of America) written by Cecile Page Vargo, Roger W. Vargo High in the Inyo Mountains, between Owens Valley and Death Valley National…
Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley written by Brent Underwood

Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley

Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley written by Brent Underwood The siren song of Cerro Gordo,…