Bristlecone Pine (Pinus longaeva)

Blown by wind, and ravaged by time, the Bristlecone pine tree is a silent sentinel of the White Mountains in eastern central California.  Only growing high in subapline mountains, Bristlecone pine trees are among the oldest living organisms, reaching ages of 5000 years old, with on specimen being documented at 5,067 years old by Tom Harlan who aged the tree by ring count.  That calculation confirms this one individual tree to be the oldest living non-clonal organism on the planet.

A Bristlecone Pine (not the oldest) located in the White Mountains, CA
A Bristlecone Pine (not the oldest) located in the White Mountains, CA

The Bristlecone pine groves are found between 5,600 and 11,200 ft of elevation on mountain slopes with dolomitic coils and can be reached using the White Mountain Road.  This harsh alkaline soil gives the Bristlecone a competitive advantage because over plants and tree are unable to grow.  The trees grow very slowly due cold temperatures, arid soil, wind and short growing seasons.

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Goffs California – San Bernardino County Ghost Town

Originally known as Blake, Goffs, California is a small unincorporated community located off of Route 66 in the Mojave desert near the Piute Mountains.  Originally named for Isaac Blake, builder of the Nevada Southern Railway, the town was named Goffs in 1902, when it served as a railway stop, and housing for the Santa Fe Railroad.

Goffs, CA
Goffs California

In 1914, Goffs built a schoolhouse which served 1000 square miles of the surrounding desert.  The students were primarily children of railroad employees, miners and Mexican immigrant families.  The school continued to function as a educational facility until it’s closure in 1937 when the Goffs School District was merged with  the nearby Needles school district.  During World War II, the “Mission Revival” building served as a canteen for the Desert Training Center, which trained US servicemen for the hardships of desert life in preparation for the African Campaign.

Goffs Schoolhouse, Mojave, CA
Goffs Schoolhouse, Mojave, CA

Today, the Goffs school house is used by the Mojave Desert Heritage and Cultural Associations and a museum and cultural center.  The schoolhouse was recognized on the National Register of Historic Places on Aug 7th, 2001.  ( #01001102 )

Goffs California found it’s way onto my list of cool places by accident on a family vacation along the Old Mojave Road.  The first day in, we camped in the New York Mountains.  We scheduled a rest day where we could drive the jeeps with a non burden suspension and explore the Mojave Dessert.  Almost as an after-thought, we headed towards Goffs not knowing what to expect or who we would find.

As we pulled into the area, we could see a windmill and a couple of buildings which are located behind a locked gate.  We decided to get out to stretch a bit, and after a few minutes I noticed a man driving up in a golf cart.  At first I was concerned that some old desert hermit was investigating trespassers on his land, and was immediately surprised when this man opened the gate and invited us onto his property.  It turned our that this man was Dennis Casebier, the man who wrote the book and rediscovered the Old Mojave Road.

Hitchin a ride with the fascinating Dennis Casebier
Hitchin a ride with the fascinating Dennis Casebier

That afternoon, we spent a good portion of the day with the fascinating Mr. Casebier.  He told us how he retired to Goffs in the 1990’s and worked to protect the history of the area.   He relived the days of searching and marking off the Old Mojave Road by building rock cairns, hundreds of them.  He told the stories of the military activity in the area during World War II.  He offered us a complete tour of his land and collection of mining equipment, stamp mills, train equipment, etc…

Preserving the Old Mojave Road and the history of the area is Mr. Casebier’s work. At the time, he showed us a 2 stamp stampmill that he restored into working condition and share his plans to assemble a 10 stamp mill which he recently acquired.  I understand that he now has this mill working as well, so I need to schedule another trip down to Goffs.

As we were leaving, we thanked him for his hospitality and for opening up for us.  He replied that he could not ignore a couple of dirty jeeps driving down the road.

That night, around the campfire I reflected on how fortunate I was to meet Dennis Casebier.  I felt privileged, and yet, I suspect that I really was not that lucky.  I imagine this that I am one of many, who drove down the road into Goffs and talk with Dennis Casebier.

Functioning Stampmill, Goffs, CA
Functioning Stampmill, Goffs, CA

Further Reading

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Camp Phallus – New York Mountains

Located in Caruther’s Canyons of the New York Mountains, Camp Phallus is named for a “unique” rock formation visible from the campsite. The campsite offers a central base camp location to the Old Mojave Road and the higher elevations may offer a nice break from the heat in the warmer months. We drove down to Goffs on our trip.

Our campsite from a distance in Caruthers Canyon
Our campsite from a distance in Caruthers Canyon

 This is a primitive site, no posted sights, just a series of short trails to isolated sites, each of which can support several vehicles. All of the sites that I have seen appear to be quite large and capable of several vehicles. One of the campsites offers table top bench under a large tree which was an Eagle Scout project. Good work!

There are no restrooms at Camp Phallus in Caruthers Canyon
There are no restrooms at Camp Phallus in Caruthers Canyon

Camp Phallus beautiful place to camp and it offers cooler temperatures during to summer months due to its 5500 ft of elevation. There was deer in the area, and when we went in March, it was quite cold at this higher elevation. A nice campfire took the chill off.

My son and I waking up in the morning
My son and I waking up in the morning

This was my sons first camping trip and he did great. He loves to go camping despite the fact he threw a high temperature at night and we needed to head home early. The camp ground was clean, remote and vacant and we vowed to return again.

Camp Rock Springs

A small oasis and valuable water supply along the Old Mojave Road, Camp Rock Springs was the site of a military outpost established on December 30, 1866.  There are few remains or ruins of the old dusty outpost but a plaque to remind the visitors that men of the U.S. Army served at this remote desert post.

Camp Rock Springs, Old Mojave Road
Camp Rock Springs, Old Mojave Road

Camp Rock Springs

To the United States Soldiers of Camp

Rock Springs— who guarded the U.S. Mail.

No Glory there nor much chance for

military fame, but true patriots and heroes

were they, to submit to such privations–

Yet there are the nurseries of the army,

and from such hard schools we graduated

a grant and Sherman, Sheridan and Thomas.

General James F. Rusling USA

Bill Holcomb Chapter

E. Clampus Vitus

The sentiment of General Rusling is poignant, and the soldiers who guarded this post did so without notice from the outside world.  Few people at the time, yet alone now even knew this place existed.  Beginning in 1860 a 20 man patrol, with one officer would patrol between Camp Rock Springs and Fort Mojave to the East, twice per month, every month, to maintain and service the Mojave Road.

In 1863, a number of complaints were filed with the army recording Indian sightings and activity including 300 – 400 encamped about 30 miles to the south.  Additionally there were complaints the Native Americans were thought to be steeling cattle, however these complaints were cancelled a few days later.  If nothing else, this would seem to indicate a level of contempt and distrust towards the native population regardless, these complaints and issues kept the army in the Mojave desert busy.

Rock Springs
Rock Springs

In 1865, two men started a mining operation at the Rock Springs location.  While the two men were away, their buildings burnt and their supplies stolen.  The two men immediately became very vocal in their complaints that the government was developing the area for the government while not protective the investment of the miners.  Soon after the miners fled the area, Camp Rock Springs became and official post of the army, and is described as  “On the desert . . . very disagreeable place for the troops” in a government report.

The camp was quickly built using local building materials, however the high cost of operating the camp and the scarcity of water, despite the spring, caused the camp to close in 1868.  The duties of Camp Rock were taken over by the Camp at Marl Springs.

Camp Rock Springs
Camp Rock Springs

The site now does still have some water, and is a small oasis in the desert.  The spring does not travel more than 50 feet into the canyon before the desert claims it again.  The Camp, like the soldiers is long gone.

Government Holes

The tale of the the Old Mojave Road is the story of water, the more important resource in the desert.  Along the Old Mojave Road trail is the Government Holes water stop.  Long abandoned, the site still contains a wind mill, a corral and a few watering holes.  This quiet remote location was even the site of a gunfight.

Government Holes in the central section of the Old Mojave Road.
Government Holes in the central section of the Old Mojave Road.

The story of the American West is the story ongoing and continued conflicts between the Native Americans and settlers and this holds was also true for the Mojave desert.  In 1858 the Mohave tribe attack various wagon trains, which prompted a military response from the U.S. Government. Major William Hoffman and over 600 men were dispatched to the Colorado River which is the  homeland of the Mohave  Tribe.  Major Hoffman demand the Mohave surrender to which the tribe relented.  Major Hoffman next established a post on the eastern bank of the Colorado River which developed into Fort Mojave.  To support this new fort, regular supply wagon trains from Los Angeles were required to travel east through the Mojave Desert until the Civil War.  Improvements to the wagon trail included a water stop which became known as Government Holes.

By the 1870s, steamboats on the Colorado supplied Fort Mojave and the Mojave Road became a highway for miners, prospectors, and ranchers.  In 1883 the Southern Pacific / Atlantic & Pacific Railroad took up the majority of traffic.  Throughout the 1800’s the Mojave was an open range, and cattle and livestock grazing was a source of money and food.  As with many human endeavors, smaller operations consolidate into larger companies.  These companies worked to claim ownership of land and most importantly water rights.

Homesteaders were in conflict with the Cattle Companies, when the homesteaders stake claims on the best grazing territory.  Homesteaders crops were trampled by the cattle, and the cattle companies denied the homesteaders access to water.  The homesteaders responded by taking their portion of beef from the herd.  All of this game to a head when a gun fight broke out between Matt Burts and J. W. “Bill” Robinson on November 8th, 1925.  Both men died in the fight, and may be one of the last of the “old west” gunfights and the plot of a lot of Hollywood movies.

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