Tag: Utah

Utah, a state in the western United States, is renowned for its stunning natural landscapes and unique geological formations. It is characterized by vast deserts, towering red rock formations, and the dramatic peaks of the Rocky Mountains. Home to five national parks—Zion, Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, Canyonlands, and Arches—Utah attracts outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers from around the world. Its capital, Salt Lake City, is a hub of culture, history, and outdoor recreation, famously hosting the 2002 Winter Olympics. Utah’s diverse terrain offers opportunities for skiing, hiking, mountain biking, and exploring ancient Native American petroglyphs and archaeological sites. The state’s Mormon heritage is also evident in its history, architecture, and the world-famous Salt Lake Temple.

Valley of the Gods

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Valley of the Gods is a beautiful sandstone valley and located in the South East corner of Utah near Mexican Hat. alley of the Gods is the lesser known northern extension of Monument Valley and is frequently confused with Monument Valley. The valley is carved out from a layer of eroded sandstone, and features two large table top mesa with are long and narrow in shape. These mesas appear like ship sails again a sea of clear blue skies.  

The seventeen mile trail loops north from highway 163 and then travels back the the south west to connect to highway 261 and recommended for high clearance vehicles.

Valley of the Gods, Utah
Large format photograph take in Valley of the Gods, Utah provided by James L Rathbun

Down towards to the of the valley, two beautiful spires reminded me of sailing ships in the desert. The road winds between them to provide for an amazing drive.

Unlike Monument Valley which is controlled by the Navajo Nation, the valley is managed by the Bureau of Land Management and does not contain any services or campgrounds, or tribal restrictions. There are several small camping spots on the loop and when I visited in October the number of people seems to be quite low.

Valley of the Gods trail map

White Rim Trail

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The White Rim Trail is Canyonlands National Park is a 100 mile back country 4×4 trail that follows an strata of white lime stone along the edge of Island in the Sky mesa Located in Canyonlands National Park, Utah.  Back country permits are required for this trail, and although it can easily be taken in one day, the wise traveler takes their time and runs the route in several days and nights.  There are several camp grounds offering star gazing opportunities, and the grand vistas and long light in the early morning and late afternoon will inspire the Ansel Adams within you.

Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun

The trailhead is reached by leaving the Islands in the Sky Mesa, using the steep and twisty Shafer Trail.  The Shafer Trail is a back county route that takes you back to Moab, UT and a fun way out at the end of your trip.  The Shafer trail drops quickly and about 700 feet using 6 switch backs.  The Shafer Trail and White Rim Trail are well maintained and not very narrow, but the elevation and views give the feeling the route is dangerous.

Sunset along the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands NP, Utah Photograph by James L Rathbun
Sunset along the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands NP, Utah Photograph by James L Rathbun

Once down on the bottom, the well marked Shafer Trail continues on, while the White Rim Trail branches right and to the south.  All along the backcountry dirt road there are numerous spur trails, vistas, and points of interest give you much to explore including Lathrop Canyon, Musselman Arch, Washer Woman Arch and the Monster Tower.  The entire route is easy to follow, well maintained, well traveled and pure joy to run.

The trail winds along a layer of erroded light colored sandstone called the White Rim which undulates around several smaller side canyons which lead down the the Colorado River.  

Available Campsites

There are several small primitive campsites throughout the route.

  • Shafer – Mile 7 – 1 site
  • Airport – Mile 19 – 4 sites
  • Gooseberry – Mile 30 – 2 sites
  • White Crack – Mile 39 – 1 site
  • Murphy Hogback – Mile 45 – 3 sites
  • Candlestick – Mile 55 – 1 sites
  • Potato Bottom – Mile 66 – 3 sites
  • Hardscrabble Bottom – Mile 70 – 2 sites
  • Labyrinth – Mile 72 – 2 sites
  • Taylor – Mile 77 – 1 site

Trail Map

Utah Trip Report, Fall 2003

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Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah
Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah

This year’s trip was very unique, and will be hard to document in way that is interesting Utah trip. My immediate reaction is to throw up a ton of images and just write “look where I went”.

This years adventure started during the California Wildfires. Friends and family homes located in the San Bernardino Mountains were danger as we left and not all the news we had was good. My brother and I piled into his Four Runner under the smoke filled dawn and made the eight-hour drive to Zion National Park in Utah.

Since we had just over a days wait for our companions for the trip. My brother and I did several hikes out and around the main canyon in Zion while we waited for my photography partner and good friend John Farkas and his wife Abby to arrive.

A quick hike up to the Emerald Pools left us with a great view, but view great photographic opportunities. The quick moving white clouds above gave us great-diffused light, but this light would quickly vanish and made composing and hit and miss venture. That evening, we dropped in on Michael Fatali, and were fortunate enough to get a tour of his dark room and a little map review as well. Thanks Michael!

After losing a day to travel, we awoke near Dance Hall Rock in the Escalante Wilderness. After a morning breakfast we loaded up our backpacks and head out across the sand trail towards “Crack in the Wall”. “Crack in the Wall” is a “Class 2” rock scamper. Since we didn’t know that this really was, we didn’t worry too much as we hiked closer towards the canyon wall. We hiked over prehistoric petrified dunes, dried water pools, and cow trails as we edged ever closer towards the infamous “Crack in the Wall”.

Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail
Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail

“Crack in the Wall” is perhaps the most descriptive named structure that I have run across to date. A narrow crack in the towering canyon walls was formed by a large section of stone cleaving away from wall. Perhaps one of the more interesting hiking trails I have seen, we removed our heavy frame backpacks, broke out our rope, and quickly lowered the packs past the narrowest section of the trail. Another twenty minutes of hiking found us near the Escalante River. Light danced on the canyon walls, and reflections glowed in the shallow creek as we explored the canyons looking for the light.

Hiking towards crack in the wall.
Hiking towards crack in the wall.

After a three-hour hike out of the canyons of the Escalante River, we planned our next days excursion. The decided to head east down the John Burr trail and towards Capital Reef National Park. The Burr Trail is a nice paved windy road that is perhaps one of the most scenic roads I have traveled. We stopped many times on our travels this find day, as the diffused light was booming. Water carved towers of rock illuminated by the soft Utah sun passed by as we drove deeper and deeper into Capital Reef.

Another day of driving took us back towards Los Angeles. We were sad to see our expedition coming to a close, but time was against us. However, we still found time to visit a slot canyon just a few miles away from our route. We certainly could not pass this opportunity

Round Valley Draw slot canyon opens up in a streambed after a very short hike from the trailhead. We walked down the side of the canyon to survey the canyon before lowering ourselves deep into the heart of the Earth. I have stated it previously, but walking a slot canyon is a magical experience. Time, Water, and Sand carve these beautiful canyons for us to visit, and you just cannot appreciate this place until you have been there.

Another wonderful Utah trip.